The watt race is just numbers. 40w, 70w, 150w, 200w.... Most people vape under 25w I'd guess. At least tanks I guess, drippers I would guess higher? I see no reason for a 200w device IMHO. YMMV
I dunno, all of the myriad subtanks (except the Innokin) perform better north of 30W. Including the Subtank with the new vertical coils.
The only thing I vape below 25w in Kanthal mode is a Kayfun and a Taifun (and frankly, those don't get used much at all, I'm just not a mouth hitter). In TC mode, it's pretty much max wattage on the device and then dial in temps.
This is my point eactly, Croak. The SubTank Mini has provided an exceptional vape, at 30W or below, with both OCC heads & the RBA deck. Even max VG e-liquids have performed beautifully. Kanger seems to be responding to the "more is better" philosophy. I look for exceptional vapes below 30W. It extends battery life, charging intervals, battery longevity and removes the necessity of carrying multiple spare batteries throughout the day. As long as the original horizontal OCC and RBA heads remain available and work in all SubTanks, I guess it's a win for everyone. But that new RBA head looks kinda janky.
Thanks! That's what I needed to know. Most of what I bought lately is 70vg/30pg but I still do have some high pg juices I like to use every now & again.It's pretty simple, if you use thicker juices, open the juice control, if you use runny juices, close it down. Coming from a tiny coil tight airflow, small wick, low wattage "tootle" tank like the Nautilus, I would expect most of your juices to be runny, high PG blends. Those are problematic with stock subtank-style coil heads because the holes for juice are much larger, there's a greater amount of wicking material, so you run the risk of flooding the tank (juice running into the bottom airflow section of the tank) and gurgling as well. A head with juice control lets you use up your old stock of runny juice before eventually placing an order for higher VG juices.
You can't really blame Kanger, they had their own unique take on the subtank, including the decidedly MTL-centric RBA on the original Subtank, and heads that worked well with most of the mass-market devices of the time (late 2014). And they got pilloried for it. "Doesn't handle wattage" instead of "it's efficient", "not enough airflow" instead of "this is a nice alternative to a Kayfun". The market spoke, they listened.
This third iteration of the RBA is also something they pretty much had to attempt (jury still out on results), with the prevalence of reviewers (and enthusiast consumers) using high/max VG liquids in a RBA that was designed for the same thin liquids people used in their Aerotanks, Protanks, etc. And I can't really fault Kanger for designing the first two bases for thin juice, because that is still the stuff most popular in China, and in the mass market here in the US, and it's just an inherent limitation to the Kayfun vacuum design, it works best with thin juice and restricted airflow.
I agree, I rarely go above 60-80 watts myself. Even if the Snowwolf only pushed 100, even 70 watts I'd be happy and still want it. 200 is ridiculous. I'm loving 30-40 watts between 430-520°. I'm wondering if I'll ever go back to kanthal. Hey, are those new Kanger rba's available for the masses yet. I'm super interested. Also where can I find the Atlantis rba? I know there out there somewhere.I dunno, all of the myriad subtanks (except the Innokin) perform better north of 30W. Including the Subtank with the new vertical coils.
The only thing I vape below 25w in Kanthal mode is a Kayfun and a Taifun (and frankly, those don't get used much at all, I'm just not a mouth hitter). In TC mode, it's pretty much max wattage on the device and then dial in temps.
While I agree with much of what you wrote, "The market spoke, they listened" is an exaggeration. A very small, yet loud, subsection of the market spoke. I think most SubTank Mini/Nano owners are thoroughly satisfied with their purchases. If Kanger is adding options to the current SubTank line, that's awesome. If they are replacing the current OCC/RBA heads, I think they are turning their back on a far majority of the market, including myself. The latest version of their Kayfun-styled RBA is brilliant with any juice, right up to max VG. Can you vape it at 50W? No. It wasn't engineered to do so. I still believe that a far majority are still vaping under 30W very happily. Is the design of their OCC heads appropriate for Ni200 or Ti? Perhaps not. But redesigning the entire head is not necessary to address the termination issues. After all, Joyetech's new TC coils for the VT terminate in a very similar manner.
Yea that rba from AnyVape Sega Tank. I was looking at that. I literally just found one at kidneypuncher.com. It's only $8. I might grab it. Might have to file the juice holes if it doesn't wick good. Worst case scenario, I wasted $10. The new Kanger rba is what I'm really looking for.Atlantis has no RBA but supposedly they are finally giving in to customer demands and working on it. There are people selling on eBay a supposedly compatible one from a different atty but it reportedly does not allow enough room between tank and RBA body for juice to flow properly
You have to drill 2 wicking holes in chamber body like Kanger did in one in video above to make it work.Yea that rba from AnyVape Sega Tank. I was looking at that. I literally just found one at kidneypuncher.com. It's only $8. I might grab it. Might have to file the juice holes if it doesn't wick good. Worst case scenario, I wasted $10. The new Kanger rba is what I'm really looking for.
Is there a ratio a guess you would call it, between what you set your watts versus what you should set your temp? Or is it just based on preference? Trying to figure out more about temp. protect. The way I understand it if I like to vape at 450 then it really doesn't matter what I set watts at. just with it set at 15w vs 25w it takes longer(meaning a longer drag) to get to 450 if u are at 15w vs 25w. Is this correct?I agree, I rarely go above 60-80 watts myself. Even if the Snowwolf only pushed 100, even 70 watts I'd be happy and still want it. 200 is ridiculous. I'm loving 30-40 watts between 430-520°. I'm wondering if I'll ever go back to kanthal. Hey, are those new Kanger rba's available for the masses yet. I'm super interested. Also where can I find the Atlantis rba? I know there out there somewhere.
Is there a ratio a guess you would call it, between what you set your watts versus what you should set your temp? Or is it just based on preference? Trying to figure out more about temp. protect. The way I understand it if I like to vape at 450 then it really doesn't matter what I set watts at. just with it set at 15w vs 25w it takes longer(meaning a longer drag) to get to 450 if u are at 15w vs 25w. Is this correct?
Pretty much what @aldenf said. I think of it like a tachometer for an engine, your temperature setting being your rev limiter and your wattage setting being how hard/far you step on the gas pedal if that makes sense. The higher you set your wattage the quicker you'll reach your temp setting. The Arctic Dolphin ADT50 mod with the spider on it, only allows you to set the temp not the wattage when in temp mode, so if you set it to 450° it automatically determines what is needed to reach and maintain sed temp, which I think is weird. I dunno if I like that.Is there a ratio a guess you would call it, between what you set your watts versus what you should set your temp? Or is it just based on preference? Trying to figure out more about temp. protect. The way I understand it if I like to vape at 450 then it really doesn't matter what I set watts at. just with it set at 15w vs 25w it takes longer(meaning a longer drag) to get to 450 if u are at 15w vs 25w. Is this correct?