Vapor Flask V3 DNA40 Clone thread

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Croak

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I dunno, all of the myriad subtanks (except the Innokin) perform better north of 30W. Including the Subtank with the new vertical coils.

The only thing I vape below 25w in Kanthal mode is a Kayfun and a Taifun (and frankly, those don't get used much at all, I'm just not a mouth hitter). In TC mode, it's pretty much max wattage on the device and then dial in temps.
 
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HolmanGT

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The watt race is just numbers. 40w, 70w, 150w, 200w.... Most people vape under 25w I'd guess. At least tanks I guess, drippers I would guess higher? I see no reason for a 200w device IMHO. YMMV

Phone Guy,

Glad you said it. I have been thinking the same thing. Not to mention can you imagine what kind of battery life you DON'T get at a 150 watts. If you take a trip to Wal-Mart you better have a "Fanny Pack" of 18650s.
 

aldenf

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I dunno, all of the myriad subtanks (except the Innokin) perform better north of 30W. Including the Subtank with the new vertical coils.

The only thing I vape below 25w in Kanthal mode is a Kayfun and a Taifun (and frankly, those don't get used much at all, I'm just not a mouth hitter). In TC mode, it's pretty much max wattage on the device and then dial in temps.


This is my point eactly, Croak. The SubTank Mini has provided an exceptional vape, at 30W or below, with both OCC heads & the RBA deck. Even max VG e-liquids have performed beautifully. Kanger seems to be responding to the "more is better" philosophy. I look for exceptional vapes below 30W. It extends battery life, charging intervals, battery longevity and removes the necessity of carrying multiple spare batteries throughout the day. As long as the original horizontal OCC and RBA heads remain available and work in all SubTanks, I guess it's a win for everyone. But that new RBA head looks kinda janky.
 

TheBloke

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On reflection, after my earlier concerns, I'm now determined to look on the bright side and I think it will be fine. Firstly anyone wanting the awesome new Infinite chip can still get it in the form of the various Zero clones - two kinds on FT, plus the Geeco. It's a shame it's not spring pin but it is at least adjustable, and it's a nice looking mod.

Secondly, and more importantly, I am kind of glad we're getting away from VF and VS clones. I think while Infinite and the others could just crank out those existing designs they were much less likely to try and come up with some new designs of their own. Kangxin, to their credit, has done so with the Mini VF (OK it's just half a Flask, but they added a flashlight at least :) ) Now their cash cows have been slaughtered I really hope Infinite will start having the courage of their convictions and bring out a new design. There's only so many ways you can shape a box and it doesn't have to be anything fancy. Their new chip available in single and a dual chassis' with sprung pin will do me. Screen on top would be nice, but can't have everything (just so long as it's not on the bottom ;) )

They're a pretty well known name in the vaping world already so I'm surprised they haven't done so already, like Waidea and KX already have. Unless they have under a different brand name? Croak suggested that Geeco might even be their brand.

Re the Snow Wolf - I give them (or whoever made the chip) some kudos for extending upon the DNA 40 idea rather than making it a direct clone. But I won't ever need anything remotely near that power and frankly only the Infinite chip will do for me at the moment (well I wouldn't throw a Dicodes out of bed, but I'm not spending that much on a tube just yet..)

I have a Zero Modz 60W clone in my basket at FT and can't decide whether to hit the button. I'd prefer sprung pin and I'd prefer dual battery. But I really need/want a second Infinite chip ASAP and now I'm worried that those might go, too. Though I suppose if Zero aren't a huge company then just because VS and VF have gone the patent route doesn't mean that they are near doing so.

Anyway what's-her-name ('Jenny'?) from FT promised new products soon and even if she hadn't I'd be confident there will be plenty more in the near future.
 
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Croak

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This is my point eactly, Croak. The SubTank Mini has provided an exceptional vape, at 30W or below, with both OCC heads & the RBA deck. Even max VG e-liquids have performed beautifully. Kanger seems to be responding to the "more is better" philosophy. I look for exceptional vapes below 30W. It extends battery life, charging intervals, battery longevity and removes the necessity of carrying multiple spare batteries throughout the day. As long as the original horizontal OCC and RBA heads remain available and work in all SubTanks, I guess it's a win for everyone. But that new RBA head looks kinda janky.

You can't really blame Kanger, they had their own unique take on the subtank, including the decidedly MTL-centric RBA on the original Subtank, and heads that worked well with most of the mass-market devices of the time (late 2014). And they got pilloried for it. "Doesn't handle wattage" instead of "it's efficient", "not enough airflow" instead of "this is a nice alternative to a Kayfun". The market spoke, they listened.

This third iteration of the RBA is also something they pretty much had to attempt (jury still out on results), with the prevalence of reviewers (and enthusiast consumers) using high/max VG liquids in a RBA that was designed for the same thin liquids people used in their Aerotanks, Protanks, etc. And I can't really fault Kanger for designing the first two bases for thin juice, because that is still the stuff most popular in China, and in the mass market here in the US, and it's just an inherent limitation to the Kayfun vacuum design, it works best with thin juice and restricted airflow.
 

Unior

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It's pretty simple, if you use thicker juices, open the juice control, if you use runny juices, close it down. Coming from a tiny coil tight airflow, small wick, low wattage "tootle" tank like the Nautilus, I would expect most of your juices to be runny, high PG blends. Those are problematic with stock subtank-style coil heads because the holes for juice are much larger, there's a greater amount of wicking material, so you run the risk of flooding the tank (juice running into the bottom airflow section of the tank) and gurgling as well. A head with juice control lets you use up your old stock of runny juice before eventually placing an order for higher VG juices.
Thanks! That's what I needed to know. Most of what I bought lately is 70vg/30pg but I still do have some high pg juices I like to use every now & again.
 

aldenf

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You can't really blame Kanger, they had their own unique take on the subtank, including the decidedly MTL-centric RBA on the original Subtank, and heads that worked well with most of the mass-market devices of the time (late 2014). And they got pilloried for it. "Doesn't handle wattage" instead of "it's efficient", "not enough airflow" instead of "this is a nice alternative to a Kayfun". The market spoke, they listened.

This third iteration of the RBA is also something they pretty much had to attempt (jury still out on results), with the prevalence of reviewers (and enthusiast consumers) using high/max VG liquids in a RBA that was designed for the same thin liquids people used in their Aerotanks, Protanks, etc. And I can't really fault Kanger for designing the first two bases for thin juice, because that is still the stuff most popular in China, and in the mass market here in the US, and it's just an inherent limitation to the Kayfun vacuum design, it works best with thin juice and restricted airflow.



While I agree with much of what you wrote, "The market spoke, they listened" is an exaggeration. A very small, yet loud, subsection of the market spoke. I think most SubTank Mini/Nano owners are thoroughly satisfied with their purchases. If Kanger is adding options to the current SubTank line, that's awesome. If they are replacing the current OCC/RBA heads, I think they are turning their back on a far majority of the market, including myself. The latest version of their Kayfun-styled RBA is brilliant with any juice, right up to max VG. Can you vape it at 50W? No. It wasn't engineered to do so. I still believe that a far majority are still vaping under 30W very happily. Is the design of their OCC heads appropriate for Ni200 or Ti? Perhaps not. But redesigning the entire head is not necessary to address the termination issues. After all, Joyetech's new TC coils for the VT terminate in a very similar manner.
 
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Croak

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Seriously, the market has spoken, in the only voice it has. Sure, it's possibly a small but vocal subsection, but it's one that's influencing the less vocal majority, and that group of opinion makers is moving towards more recent sub-ohm clearos.

I should point out, many consumers will follow the opinion makers. That little secret gets people elected, sells their records or books, gets people to buy new fashions, etc, maybe more so than any overt marketing efforts. And the flock always wants the new hotness, even if the old and busted is still damned good.

So Kanger can't afford to sit still. They certainly don't want to be Provape or Evolv (and very nearly Innokin) looking at the ruins of their former empires wondering what happened, so they're iterating rapidly and following the money.
 

TheotherSteveS

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to my eye the new RBA looks interesting. I like the 'janky' screw for securing the sleeve. The old version screw sleeve is a SOB to get off sometimes, particulalry after cranking the deck into the base for TC purposes. Looks like the air hole is a tad larger and i worry a bit about the juice flow holes. You know, I have three old RBAs and use them exclusively with 80% VG and absolutely no problems..ever! I was tempted to enlarge the juice ports but in the end decided it wasnt nevcessary. As for the new VC heads, I just hope the Ni versions work better than the current horizontal type...which suck by-and-large.
 

TheotherSteveS

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As it look like the VF clones (and VS for that matter) are going to disappear more or les, just wanted to thank Croak for starting this thread and making me aware at least of these devices. I think I have read every post by now, some several times. My kangxin is still going strong and it really has been a great intro to TC vaping. The fact that I now am in possession of an invader mini and SX mini M-class, with a VS clone in transit :) and a bloody Dicodes Dani extreme V2 on the way would rightly suggest that I have taken to it fairly well although not without some collateral damage to my bank account!

Nice one Croak!!
 

AtmizrOpin

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I dunno, all of the myriad subtanks (except the Innokin) perform better north of 30W. Including the Subtank with the new vertical coils.

The only thing I vape below 25w in Kanthal mode is a Kayfun and a Taifun (and frankly, those don't get used much at all, I'm just not a mouth hitter). In TC mode, it's pretty much max wattage on the device and then dial in temps.
I agree, I rarely go above 60-80 watts myself. Even if the Snowwolf only pushed 100, even 70 watts I'd be happy and still want it. 200 is ridiculous. I'm loving 30-40 watts between 430-520°. I'm wondering if I'll ever go back to kanthal. Hey, are those new Kanger rba's available for the masses yet. I'm super interested. Also where can I find the Atlantis rba? I know there out there somewhere.
 

Tpat591

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Atlantis has no RBA but supposedly they are finally giving in to customer demands and working on it. There are people selling on eBay a supposedly compatible one from a different atty but it reportedly does not allow enough room between tank and RBA body for juice to flow properly. The RBA head for the other atty costs like $7.95 but to make it work you have to drill 2 wicking holes in chamber body. There is a guy drilling the holes and selling finished units for $113.95 on eBay! How many he is selling at that price, I cannot say!
 
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AtmizrOpin

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While I agree with much of what you wrote, "The market spoke, they listened" is an exaggeration. A very small, yet loud, subsection of the market spoke. I think most SubTank Mini/Nano owners are thoroughly satisfied with their purchases. If Kanger is adding options to the current SubTank line, that's awesome. If they are replacing the current OCC/RBA heads, I think they are turning their back on a far majority of the market, including myself. The latest version of their Kayfun-styled RBA is brilliant with any juice, right up to max VG. Can you vape it at 50W? No. It wasn't engineered to do so. I still believe that a far majority are still vaping under 30W very happily. Is the design of their OCC heads appropriate for Ni200 or Ti? Perhaps not. But redesigning the entire head is not necessary to address the termination issues. After all, Joyetech's new TC coils for the VT terminate in a very similar manner.
Atlantis has no RBA but supposedly they are finally giving in to customer demands and working on it. There are people selling on eBay a supposedly compatible one from a different atty but it reportedly does not allow enough room between tank and RBA body for juice to flow properly
Yea that rba from AnyVape Sega Tank. I was looking at that. I literally just found one at kidneypuncher.com. It's only $8. I might grab it. Might have to file the juice holes if it doesn't wick good. Worst case scenario, I wasted $10. The new Kanger rba is what I'm really looking for.
 
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Tpat591

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Yea that rba from AnyVape Sega Tank. I was looking at that. I literally just found one at kidneypuncher.com. It's only $8. I might grab it. Might have to file the juice holes if it doesn't wick good. Worst case scenario, I wasted $10. The new Kanger rba is what I'm really looking for.
You have to drill 2 wicking holes in chamber body like Kanger did in one in video above to make it work.
 
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Unior

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I agree, I rarely go above 60-80 watts myself. Even if the Snowwolf only pushed 100, even 70 watts I'd be happy and still want it. 200 is ridiculous. I'm loving 30-40 watts between 430-520°. I'm wondering if I'll ever go back to kanthal. Hey, are those new Kanger rba's available for the masses yet. I'm super interested. Also where can I find the Atlantis rba? I know there out there somewhere.
Is there a ratio a guess you would call it, between what you set your watts versus what you should set your temp? Or is it just based on preference? Trying to figure out more about temp. protect. The way I understand it if I like to vape at 450 then it really doesn't matter what I set watts at. just with it set at 15w vs 25w it takes longer(meaning a longer drag) to get to 450 if u are at 15w vs 25w. Is this correct?
 
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aldenf

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Is there a ratio a guess you would call it, between what you set your watts versus what you should set your temp? Or is it just based on preference? Trying to figure out more about temp. protect. The way I understand it if I like to vape at 450 then it really doesn't matter what I set watts at. just with it set at 15w vs 25w it takes longer(meaning a longer drag) to get to 450 if u are at 15w vs 25w. Is this correct?

In theory, the power setting should only determine how fast the coil is brought up to your set temperature. The chipset should regulate the required power necessary to maintain set temp. In practice, the different chipsets are better or worse at maintaining. Many believe that TC, in its current state, is best utilized as a governor rather than a cruse control. There have been many discussions about this in TC threads...
 
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AtmizrOpin

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Is there a ratio a guess you would call it, between what you set your watts versus what you should set your temp? Or is it just based on preference? Trying to figure out more about temp. protect. The way I understand it if I like to vape at 450 then it really doesn't matter what I set watts at. just with it set at 15w vs 25w it takes longer(meaning a longer drag) to get to 450 if u are at 15w vs 25w. Is this correct?
Pretty much what @aldenf said. I think of it like a tachometer for an engine, your temperature setting being your rev limiter and your wattage setting being how hard/far you step on the gas pedal if that makes sense. The higher you set your wattage the quicker you'll reach your temp setting. The Arctic Dolphin ADT50 mod with the spider on it, only allows you to set the temp not the wattage when in temp mode, so if you set it to 450° it automatically determines what is needed to reach and maintain sed temp, which I think is weird. I dunno if I like that.
 
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