I have not tried yet but I think after you remove the batteries it goes to something like 15watts. Not a complete fix but will put you at a wattage you could use.
Vapor Flask
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I have not tried yet but I think after you remove the batteries it goes to something like 15watts. Not a complete fix but will put you at a wattage you could use.
Gosh - sorry to hear that Doug.
Anybody get their RMA'd VaporFlask back from Evolv yet?
Mine has been there since Nov 10 and haven't been notified of anything...
Cloudrider,
Don't know if I would try to rush them... I know, I know, easier said than done. But I would bet my bottom dollar they are waiting on new boards and fixes. As long as it doesn't go on too long I would try to ride it out to insure you get the latest and greatest.
Unfortunately after a battery pull it likes to stay at 40. Just built a single coil twisted 32g ni200 build. Temperature control works, so it limits lower than 40 watts.
At the end of the day it needs to go back to vendor or go to vapor flask for rma.
At the end of the day it needs to go back to vendor or go to vapor flask for rma.
Anybody get their RMA'd VaporFlask back from Evolv yet?
Mine has been there since Nov 10 and haven't been notified of anything...
I got mine back on Thursday. It's working perfectly and was in the exact same perfect condition as when I sent it to them. Mine arrived at their PO Box on 10/6 and was not picked up by Evolv until 10/12. If you send an email on Monday asking about the condition, Steve will get back in touch with an update. Or you can call. Evolv's phone number is on the RMA form.
Assume you meant 11/6-11/12 glad to hear you got it back and is working great! Mine is too other then being a novice at nickel builds.
I bought one as a gift that had to be sent back. picked up from the PO in the 17th and e-mail sent on the 20th and crickets so far.
Thanks for the comments guys, just wondering what your current situations with Evolv are.
Mine got there, via UPS, meaning physically in Evolv's possession, not the PO Box, on Monday, the tenth, day before Veterans Day.
Following this thread along with both VF and Evolv's FB page, mine along with half dozen others were the very first to be received for RMA service.
Have not called or emailed, figured they have been receiving enough pressure from numerous directions.
I have a perfectly functioning rDNA 40, to tie me over for the time being..
I originally purchased the VF, because i was excited to experience the DNA40 and they were one of the first to market.
Huge disappointment that to find it defective on arrival, hope not to be any more disappointed if they are not repairing and returning them in the order received.
I just got my Vapor Flask back. I sent in a DNA30 version 2 flask. I got back a upgraded DNA40. Now I have to figure out how to use it. Do I need to adjust temp at all?
Just to add my 2 pennies, in addition to the cosmetic issues my 2.1 had (2 small nicks and a pretty substantial chip in the anodizing around the left battery cover), it also has the protruding down wattage button. And like others, if you look inside the battery tubes it's just a mess on there. The threads and milling leave a lot to be desired.
The loose and wobbly charging port bothers me to the point that I just don't use it. Ever. I just pop out my HE2s and throw them on the VP2 at the 1V setting. Within 4 or 5 hours or I've got 2 to 3 days of new vape time. What I'd give for the a nice solid click when I connect the USB cable, like, say, my original $45 Innokin MVP2.
I've never felt so torn on a piece of vaping gear. I love using it. But the QC issues coupled with the expense have soured what I had hoped would be an absolutely wonderful ownership experience. I haven't even tried a nickel build yet out of fear my Flask will end up in Ohio with all these others.
I almost feel kind of cheated in a way. Every reviewer pretty much slobbed all over these things, save for Phil who pointed out some minor QC issues. Oh, and Grimm, who spent half of his review ranting about how the screen blinds him at night. Somehow I figured out how to vape it with my thumb over the display when I'm driving in from teaching late, but that solution doesn't generate clicks I guess.
Then VF says "We gots to get paid" before the clones hit. QC goes to ...... The nice leather pouch V1 owners got is gone. We can't even pay extra to have one, which I would. (Hell, what's another $10 or $20 at this point...)
I don't know that I've ever been so conflicted over anything I've bought. Is it possible to feel both blessed and robbed at the same time?
The loose and wobbly charging port bothers me to the point that I just don't use it. Ever. I just pop out my HE2s and throw them on the VP2 at the 1V setting. Within 4 or 5 hours or I've got 2 to 3 days of new vape time. What I'd give for the a nice solid click when I connect the USB cable, like, say, my original $45 Innokin MVP2.
I've never felt so torn on a piece of vaping gear. I love using it. But the QC issues coupled with the expense have soured what I had hoped would be an absolutely wonderful ownership experience. I haven't even tried a nickel build yet out of fear my Flask will end up in Ohio with all these others.
I almost feel kind of cheated in a way. Every reviewer pretty much slobbed all over these things, save for Phil who pointed out some minor QC issues. Oh, and Grimm, who spent half of his review ranting about how the screen blinds him at night. Somehow I figured out how to vape it with my thumb over the display when I'm driving in from teaching late, but that solution doesn't generate clicks I guess.
Then VF says "We gots to get paid" before the clones hit. QC goes to ...... The nice leather pouch V1 owners got is gone. We can't even pay extra to have one, which I would. (Hell, what's another $10 or $20 at this point...)
I don't know that I've ever been so conflicted over anything I've bought. Is it possible to feel both blessed and robbed at the same time?
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Can any owners of the vapor flask help me out? My usb connection is loose, for example when you plug it in it will wobble, not the male side of the usb wire inside the female side, but the female part of the usb built into the mod wobbles. Its almost as if it is not secured to the mod properly. it charges fine but don't want to have a future problem
Ok that makes me feel a little better, still kinda worried about it though. I put naolox on the threads and now there pretty decent. Mine is from the new batch and the up button sticks out further than the down button, not noticeable without really looking at it.
Use the hell out of it is my opinion. If it breaks that easy then you have 6 months to find that out and get it fixed under warranty.
When I got my new flask, the threads were a complete mess. Something you can do...
Put a tiny bit of Vaseline on the threads, and then screw the battery cap on and off repeatedly. Eventually it'll smoothen out nicely. The Vaseline helps to "hold on" to the aluminum "filings" that will result from scraping the threads. Then just clean off the Vaseline and apply noalox.
My threads are super smooth now without any damage to the threads whatsoever. In fact it looks miles better than when I first got it.
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First off id like to say again ive had no issues thus far with my flask.
A few things:
1) The down button on mine does protrude out further. As all other owners have confirmed this, i feel it fair to assume this was a design choice to help users differentiate between the two buttons. I like this, it makes my life easier.
2) The USB port was designed to be floating. Think about it: if you knock or drop your flask whilst charging, that port will flex and move instead of bending or breaking off the cable in the charge port like a fixed connection would be susceptible to That would suck. It would also help if you did have any kind of venting from batts or the chip itself. Good, no one likes venting
3) my battery threading is good. Not great or buttery smooth, but they have definitely been breaking in nicely. I feel that the vaseline trick would solve 90% of the thread issues ppl are experiencing. All threads not steel based tend to need a bit of "warming up" so to speak.
I hope the chip issues are resolved on Rev3 DNA40s
As i said my chip has performed basically flawlessly for about 4 days of constant and i mean constant Temp Protection mode use. I havent touched any of my other mods. I like using it that much.
Im sorry for all the folks whove had QC issues. If i were you, i would contact Vapor Flask directly and i am willing to bet the will answer any questions and solve any problems, up to sending out a replacement unit. Members here have already confirmed that they got fully new replacement units with ease. Mos reputable modders will go above and beyond to satisfy any and all customer complaints.
After all, we are the ones who pay their income
Happy vaping.
A few things:
1) The down button on mine does protrude out further. As all other owners have confirmed this, i feel it fair to assume this was a design choice to help users differentiate between the two buttons. I like this, it makes my life easier.
2) The USB port was designed to be floating. Think about it: if you knock or drop your flask whilst charging, that port will flex and move instead of bending or breaking off the cable in the charge port like a fixed connection would be susceptible to That would suck. It would also help if you did have any kind of venting from batts or the chip itself. Good, no one likes venting
3) my battery threading is good. Not great or buttery smooth, but they have definitely been breaking in nicely. I feel that the vaseline trick would solve 90% of the thread issues ppl are experiencing. All threads not steel based tend to need a bit of "warming up" so to speak.
I hope the chip issues are resolved on Rev3 DNA40s
As i said my chip has performed basically flawlessly for about 4 days of constant and i mean constant Temp Protection mode use. I havent touched any of my other mods. I like using it that much.
Im sorry for all the folks whove had QC issues. If i were you, i would contact Vapor Flask directly and i am willing to bet the will answer any questions and solve any problems, up to sending out a replacement unit. Members here have already confirmed that they got fully new replacement units with ease. Mos reputable modders will go above and beyond to satisfy any and all customer complaints.
After all, we are the ones who pay their income
Happy vaping.
First off id like to say again ive had no issues thus far with my flask.
A few things:
1) The down button on mine does protrude out further. As all other owners have confirmed this, i feel it fair to assume this was a design choice to help users differentiate between the two buttons. I like this, it makes my life easier.
2) The USB port was designed to be floating. Think about it: if you knock or drop your flask whilst charging, that port will flex and move instead of bending or breaking off the cable in the charge port like a fixed connection would be susceptible to That would suck. It would also help if you did have any kind of venting from batts or the chip itself. Good, no one likes venting
3) my battery threading is good. Not great or buttery smooth, but they have definitely been breaking in nicely. I feel that the vaseline trick would solve 90% of the thread issues ppl are experiencing. All threads not steel based tend to need a bit of "warming up" so to speak.
I hope the chip issues are resolved on Rev3 DNA40s
As i said my chip has performed basically flawlessly for about 4 days of constant and i mean constant Temp Protection mode use. I havent touched any of my other mods. I like using it that much.
Im sorry for all the folks whove had QC issues. If i were you, i would contact Vapor Flask directly and i am willing to bet the will answer any questions and solve any problems, up to sending out a replacement unit. Members here have already confirmed that they got fully new replacement units with ease. Mos reputable modders will go above and beyond to satisfy any and all customer complaints.
After all, we are the ones who pay their income
Happy vaping.
Cearamm,
Glad yours is meets your qualifications but the Kiwi received a replacement and he said that the new unit the up/dn buttons are set at equal levels. The loose USB port may be a design feature but it is the only USB port I have EVER seen with built in wobble and believe me I have seen a few over the years.
For me the raised "UP" bottom is right in line with my finger when gripping the unit and several time it has caused and inadvertent increase in power level. All the buttons have a pretty minimal pressure requirement which is OK with me except for the up bottom that is so easily pressed by accident.
As far as the threads here again if they are good enough for you fine but when I buy a $300 dollar aluminum box I expect a little finer build quality.
And I will throw in item four - being forced to sand batteries so they will fit in the thing doesn't make me very happy and being forced to purchase special brands of batteries that will fit without custom modifications is also a real PITA.
But to each his own.
Was wondering if anyone else has a flask where the ohms jump between 2-3 digits. Mine is doing that. But it ohms fine on the regular ohm reader. Also. I'm running what is supposed to be a 1.2 ohm coil and at 22 watts this thing is going thru juice fast with my Veritas RDA.
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diamondlvr,
Do you mean as in 0.18, 0.19 and sometimes 0.20?
If so yes but rather infrequently I don't pay to much attention to that because I read someplace that was normal in TP mode. Apparently the Firmware picks up new base points depending on... well I don't know but something.
The reading you get in TP mode is something the algorithm works off of if you turn TP off you will find when cold it should read about what your external meter reads and when you fire the unit you will see the resistance climb rather rapidly as the Ni200 heats up.
Anyway is that the kind of change you see in yours?
PS - It will drive you crazy if you start comparing meter readings my V.F doesn't compare with my $10 Vaping meter nor does it read the same as my $200 fluke multimeter but here I am just talking about static readings not the jumping around part.
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