Vapor Flask

[TheKiwi]

Haha at this point I'm gonna sound like a flask hate (im not) but....

1) I've had a bunch of brass, alum, Ti and copper body mods. It's entirely untrue that non-ss threads are likely to be rough or takes time to work in. It simply isnt the case im afraid. Not to trivialize the manufacturing process, BUT if an end user can use Vaseline and keep screwing the caps on and off to solve the problem, then it most certainly is an issue that can be avoid through better or additional machining processes. Also my 3rd flask... It wasn't just poor threading. I literally had to crank the caps, and get strips of aluminum bits fall out. Similar to my first. IMO that alone is the biggest indication of poor manufacturing processes.

2)

These are my buttons. Completely level, same as my 2nd flask. I'm highly highly skeptical that the uneven buttons are a design choice. Especially when you consider the flask's promo talks about custom buttons to sit flush with the contours of the body. But it COULD be. Shrug. My latest 2 suggests otherwise.

3) the augment for the shifty charging port makes no sense to me. We are talking about tonnnnnes of other electronic product and I quite honestly have never seen something quite like this. The argument MIGHt make a little sense if we consider lateral movements. But this charging port can actually move INTO the mod. A perpendicular drop would wreck it. I would much rather my USB port be supported by the enclosure.

Not sure the venting thing is legit too. I would have much rather they drilled holes at the battery cap. That makes more sense

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[TheKiwi]

Oh just to add. My second flask, which was a replacement for my first, was supposed to have been tested etc. I sold it off brand new and unused, and my buyer gets screen glitches within the first half hour of using it. Needless to say I feel absolutely horrid about it.

On the bright side, all 3 of my flask came with straight screens, so they seem to have sorted that out


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[diamondlvr]

diamondlvr,

Do you mean as in 1.8, 1.9 and sometimes 2.0?

If so yes but rather infrequently I don't pay to much attention to that because I read someplace that was normal in TP mode. Apparently the Firmware picks up new base points depending on... well I don't know but something.

The reading you get in TP mode is something the algorithm works off of if you turn TP off you will find when cold it should read about what your external meter reads and when you fire the unit you will see the resistance climb rather rapidly as the Ni200 heats up.

Anyway is that the kind of change you see in yours?

PS - It will drive you crazy if you start comparing meter readings my V.F doesn't compare with my $10 Vaping meter nor does it read the same as my $200 fluke multimeter but here I am just talking about static readings not the jumping around part.

Yes HolmanGT, you hit the nail on the head. That's exactly what I'm talking about. I wonder if I should just cut off the TP mode till I'm ready to use nichrome.

 

[HolmanGT]

Yes HolmanGT, you hit the nail on the head. That's exactly what I'm talking about. I wonder if I should just cut off the TP mode till I'm ready to use nichrome.

Diamond,

I don't know if I would give up on the TP mode just because of the occasional change in the base resistance changes. I wish I could remember where I read that the firmware in the chip does that as a NORMAL part of it's A.I. algorithms but alas I can't. Ya know memory is the second thing to go at my age.

I sure don't think it will hurt anything to continue using it the way it is and from lurking around these DNA40 threads I don't think I have seen anyone claim theirs doesn't do a little bobbling around.

"Rossum" is the guy that know about all the different kinds of wire you can use in TP mode. Actually I think he even knows the temperature offsets you can expect when using stuff as bazar as Titanium wire.

I am surprised that Rossum has not jumped in on your question already. You could always PM him if you get impatient. Also "TheKiwi" is pretty savvy on most of this also I think he even mixes Kanthal and Ni200 in a twist combo... "Go-Figure".

 

[TheKiwi]

Kanthal and ni200 has been my savior. Super steady resistance, much more robust coils, and more reasonable resistances.

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[julpin]

The buttons on mine are completely flush, and both are exactly the same, no protruding bottom button. IMO this is not a feature it is something that`s off with some units.

 

[Dave7x]

The thing I don't get about them saying the usb connection is for venting is i have 4 venting holes on each of my battery caps, and if i blow in the batter caps no air comes out of the usb connection.

 

[Heespharm]

I think to keep the board cool... But it's what VF said


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[MJMcMahon]

Kanthal and ni200 has been my savior. Super steady resistance, much more robust coils, and more reasonable resistances.

Kiwi -

forgive me if I missed it - what effect does twisting in the Kanthal with the Nickel have on the resistance? Does it go up or down?

Thx,

Mike

 

[TheKiwi]

Kiwi -

forgive me if I missed it - what effect does twisting in the Kanthal with the Nickel have on the resistance? Does it go up or down?

Thx,

Mike

It goes up!


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[puffon]

It goes up!


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How about temp setting?
If I usually vape at 410-420 with Ni200 only.

 

[TheKiwi]

How about temp setting?
If I usually vape at 410-420 with Ni200 only.

Still feeling my way around in the dark for now. It's gonna differ based on what combination of wires you used.

With 28ga Nickle and 30ga kanthal im currently setting it at 450F. I've tried firing a dry wick at 450 and there was slight discoloration.


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[ultrabadger]

It goes up!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't it go down, even if only slightly? Current would preferentially flow along the ni200 strand, but the Kanthal strand is still conductive so you would drop the resistance relative a single strand of ni200. Now, I guess we also have to consider that using a twisted wire, we end up with a greater length of ni200 by virtue of the twist, so perhaps on net it increases the resistance for a given length of wire used. I'm just thinking out loud because I'm still trying to work out in my head how an ni200/Kanthal wire would interact with the TP cutoff. Or maybe I'm just overthinking it.

 

[Heespharm]

Doesn't kanthal oxidize on the surface when heated essentially insulating it from the next strand?


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[ultrabadger]

Doesn't kanthal oxidize on the surface when heated essentially insulating it from the next strand?

That's my understanding as well. But insofar as terminal-to-terminal conductivity, I would think that the Kanthal strand would lower the resistance in a twisted wire as compared to a hypothetical ni200/insulator twisted wire. It's days like this that I wish my childhood friend was still alive, he was always way better at this physics and power electronics stuff.

 

[MJMcMahon]

Supreme sad face!

I received my 'Flask on Saturday afternoon and was vaping it happily until about 15 minutes ago - now the fire button seems to stick 'on'. Contacted VaporFlask to arrange return.

NOT HAPPY!

ETA: hrmmm...now it seems to be working as before. I had some juice leakage earlier, but I was pretty careful to clean it up promptly. I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[Cearamm]

I guess we will never know whether the buttons and usb are design choices or flaws in manufacturing until Vapor Flas outright says so. O well, i can live with a mm or so protrusion from my button as i stated, it helps me differentiate. Plus i dont use USB most of the time just cus it takes so long to charge. O well. I can live with that. ALthough it does move both laterally and inward, i dont feel worried about it.

I tested my USB yesterday by inserting and pulling out the charge cable repeatedly for 30 min and absolutely no issues. O well its watever, people like things flawless and i can absolutely relate to that. I guess for me these very minor flaws do not affect my overall experience with the device.

I should clarify: im not "settling" for crappy threads. I simply wanted to state that my threads were on the same level as a provari. Smooth, clean, not crunchy at all, but not like my Naval Brass Nemesis which has the absolute best threading ive ever used. Brass threads are the smoothest, SS is next best, and Aluminum has always been my least quality threads. This is based on my experience ONLY using 20 or so mods over my vape career. Its just my experience, my Flask has been a pleasing device and i have no complaints.


I STRONGLY suggest to ANYONE who has ANY compaints about his/her Flask contact the company directly so that they can rectify the issue ASAP. I doubt they would refuse to accomodate our concerns

 

[TheKiwi]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't it go down, even if only slightly? Current would preferentially flow along the ni200 strand, but the Kanthal strand is still conductive so you would drop the resistance relative a single strand of ni200. Now, I guess we also have to consider that using a twisted wire, we end up with a greater length of ni200 by virtue of the twist, so perhaps on net it increases the resistance for a given length of wire used. I'm just thinking out loud because I'm still trying to work out in my head how an ni200/Kanthal wire would interact with the TP cutoff. Or maybe I'm just overthinking it.

I would suggest thinking of it as a parallel resistance set up and then applying the equation for net resistance

1/R_tot = 1/R1 + 1/R2

The math will work out and you'll see an increase in resistance.

Additionally from empirical observation it's been the case. I got 0.20 ohms from a 9 wrap hybrid around a 3/32 drill bit.

It takes 12 wraps of 28ga Ni around the same bit to achieve 0.15 ohms.


ETA: when I say resistance goes up, I meant relative to a pure ni coil.

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[Cearamm]

Has anyone had success with dual coils in temp mode? Im not sure the difficulty in setting it up well will justify it. Even with like 15 wraps i hvnt been able to get above .2 ohms. Thanks!

 

[TheKiwi]

Has anyone had success with dual coils in temp mode? Im not sure the difficulty in setting it up well will justify it. Even with like 15 wraps i hvnt been able to get above .2 ohms. Thanks!

I had dual 30ga. I think it was 14 wraps around a 3/32 to give me 1.5. Could be wrong but that's what's in my memory.


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