VaporShark rDNA
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Pretty common with most of these types of 
Can't wait for my rDNA 40 either... Have my rDNA 30, and my VaporShark DNA40 to hold me over until then, though...
Just peel off the silicone before sending it in. There really isn't anything that warranty covers anyway. Everything that's breaking on these isn't covered.
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VaporShark rDNA40 ordered but some of these posts don't make me feel confident.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the rDNA40 fixed a lot of issues the 30 had - like leaking?
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the rDNA40 fixed a lot of issues the 30 had - like leaking?
Sent from a BIG phone.....Galaxy Note 3
I have both he 30's but I will wait a good while to see what is happening with the 40's before buying one from VS. juice in the board is not good.. There are other modders out there that will have 40's real soon.. wait and see.. imho
Interesting picture. Aren't the locations of the temperature and wattage reversed? My DNA40 board displays 'em like this:Can't wait for my rDNA 40 either... Have my rDNA 30, and my VaporShark DNA40 to hold me over until then, though...
will temp control stop my kayfun look'n like this? running it at 0.7Ω twisted 29g on a mech
Is there info from vaporshark stating that issues were fixed?
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From what I've been reading on the DNA 40 threads the answer seems to be yes. The temp control feature seems to be working as promised although there are not a lot of DNA 40's in the wild as of yet.
How is leaking an issue with a device? That would be a problem with the tank/dripper.
He means if your tank/rda leaks. The vaporshark is less forgiving and all juice drains directly into the electronics compartment.
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If you look at the top of a VS DNA and.or rDNA you will see what looks like air flow channels around the 510 connection. Apparently, several people have had an atty leak and juice travel down into those channels which ran into the crack on the side top...the crack is the door to the wiring housing. Juice gets to the wiring and frizzz frazzz short stop. The board can get damaged. This was worse with older models but on pics of dna and rDNA 30 there is still a crack and still one or more airflow control channels that lead to it.
Which is why imo juice leaking into the wiring housing should be covered by warranty. If it were all along they would have fixed this design flaw by now....shrugs...if I ever have to trash one because it fails for this reason and vs doesn't own the problem, I will go from a potential fan to a vitriolic vapor shark opponent in less than one New York minute....Lol we shall see....
Mainly this is why I want to seal it and avoid any potential drama and a two hundred dollar loss.
If it is not engineered correctly on the 40, they should beg me to seal it...Lol
In all truth if it is still an issue, they should seal the wiring and the board themselves....like Provape does now.
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
Mainly this is why I want to seal it and avoid any potential drama and a two hundred dollar loss.
If it is not engineered correctly on the 40, they should beg me to seal it...Lol
In all truth if it is still an issue, they should seal the wiring and the board themselves....like Provape does now.
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
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Yuk! What the heck were you vaping there, roofing tar?will temp control stop my kayfun look'n like this? running it at 0.7Ω twisted 29g on a mech
Temp control might help, but in the end, it can't keep solids that are in your juice to begin with from accumulating in your wick and on your coil.
And it will not stop you from setting a temp above 410 for cotton wick.....
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
that's not my photo, but mine looks almost as bad as that after about 6 days normally when i go to change it. Go through about a tank a day vaping a homebrew 6%la banana 3%la bavarian cream 2%la cheescake 80%VG. I would change it more often but it takes that long before i notice a change in taste big enough to force me to change it.
I'm trying to justify getting a dna 40 but if my wick is still going to look like that after 7 days instead of 6 days with my $20 mech then i won't bother as it's not worth it.
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I was worried about the button being exposed on my rDNA. I have had it for about three weeks now and am already starting to see paint issues from hitting the button. Wish they had stuck with covering the button like in the DNA 30 or put a stainless steel button on there. It does not harm the functionality, but ascetically its not the best. Hopefully the images convey what I am seeing, because the lighting in this house is not the greatest.
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