VaporShark rDNA

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HOPS

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dna 40 is rated at 16 amps continuous, 23 amp peak.

Yeah, nice point lol... I don't know why but I just blindly believed that sub-ohming on a mech was the hardest you could strain a battery, even though I did know the dna draws over 10 amps (I didn't know how many amps, but I knew it was over 10).

Here's my sign lmao...
 

Bassnorma

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So, all this talk of the chip door and leaking juice led me to call their customer service line (just to see what the experience of talking with them would be like as much as anything else). The person I spoke with initially wasn't even sure what I meant by "removing the door on the chip side", but the person he transferred me to stated "if you open the door and put silicone around the seam it could diminish units ability to let gas out if the battery vents. Also if you did seal the seam, then had an issue, if a service tech found any silicone in the bay they could use that as an excuse to say you did something to the chip".

1. The battery is on the other side, so why would it vent through the the chip bay...
2. He said the words "use that as an excuse"...

God, I hope I get a perfect unit straight off... That sounds shady to me all around...

Well...ok to put it in perspective...of all of the units sold, I have only heard of this in the pbusrado vid as a possibility and from one or two posters here. Many other DNA and rDNA owners are perfectly happy and have never said they had the issue.

Should they do a better job engineering it? IMO, yes so that it is a problem 0% of the time.
'
I wish the person you talked to understood the issue and could tell us that it is 100% re-engineered on the 40s.

The seam between the wiring area and the battery area runs vertically up the unit where the 510 airflow channels are. Again, IMO they should seal the board and contacts in silicone before they ship them, but opinions are like.....

Obviously, it did not stop me from ordering one based on the glowing reviews I got from vapers that I do trust.

fyi phone support people make peanuts for a living and are not all that high-end. One can hardly expect them to have the skills of a diplomat. It does not surprise me that one of them might have a dubious response to a potential issue...using terms like "use it as an excuse"...not shocking.
 
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I was worried about the button being exposed on my rDNA. I have had it for about three weeks now and am already starting to see paint issues from hitting the button. Wish they had stuck with covering the button like in the DNA 30 or put a stainless steel button on there. It does not harm the functionality, but ascetically its not the best. Hopefully the images convey what I am seeing, because the lighting in this house is not the greatest.

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Same experience here. Careful with my things as well...and just noticed the firing button appearance dergrading last night. Less than a month, no banging around, never kept in a pocket with keys or anything else...absolutely ridiculous for a device at this price point...also not a big deal but already it also has a mark from the tank, just using a nautilus & mini nautilus, no fill screw or any thing... incredible markup for what we are getting...
was picking up a iStick the other day, getting a friend on board with vaping rather than smoking; ended up getting myself one too...for the price it is really great...and honestly if one does not need the 30 watts, it seems like a much better value for your $$. You can probably get one each color for the price of one VS.
Just to explain...I liked the rDNA so much that I got 2...as u said..great device, but at this price the fit & finish and quality control needs to be a lot better. Paying a premium price one expects premium product...
 

KTMRider

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Yeah, nice point lol... I don't know why but I just blindly believed that sub-ohming on a mech was the hardest you could strain a battery, even though I did know the DNA draws over 10 amps (I didn't know how many amps, but I knew it was over 10).

Here's my sign lmao...

Nice Jeff Foxworthy reference :D

I think most aren't thinking how they actually use their devices and getting caught up in the numbers. I know there's some crazy sub-ohmers here but I think most average users wouldn't go near the limits. I tend to vape 1.2-1.8 ohms at 8-10 watts daily (currently 6.5 watts on an Istick with 1.6 ohm build).
 

HOPS

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Well...ok to put it in perspective...of all of the units sold, I have only heard of this in the pbusrado vid as a possibility and from one or two posters here. Many other DNA and rDNA owners are perfectly happy and have never said they had the issue.

Should they do a better job engineering it? IMO, yes so that it is a problem 0% of the time.
'
I wish the person you talked to understood the issue and could tell us that it is 100% re-engineered on the 40s.

The seam between the wiring area and the battery area runs vertically up the unit where the 510 airflow channels are. Again, IMO they should seal the board and contacts in silicone before they ship them, but opinions are like.....

Obviously, it did not stop me from ordering one based on the glowing reviews I got from vapers that I do trust.

Same here, I've been looking for a new daily driver for over a year now since my MVP2 died. I've been using a Nemesis clone with a Kick2 since then. I found the VS about 8 months ago, but after having an MVP I decided I had to have a mod with a user serviceable battery. Then, the rDNA launched and it met every criteria I was hoping to find, but I was broke. Then they had the shark week sale, but I heard the new DNA chip with reverse polarity protection was coming. All in all, I've been waiting to get my hands on this rDNA40 for a year and I can't wait! I just hope I don't get a dud because the stories on here, and now my own experience, tell me it could get to be a headache if I had to deal with their service...

Edit: I dropped my Nemi, with the kick in it, in a lake while fishing over the summer... The battery was fried, but the kick is still going strong. So if juice got in the rDNA it wouldn't worry me much, except for the VS wiring. Something tells me they don't go to the same level Evolve does with their work...
 
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Bassnorma

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Same here, I've been looking for a new daily driver for over a year now since my MVP2 died. I've been using a Nemesis clone with a Kick2 since then. I found the VS about 8 months ago, but after having an MVP I decided I had to have a mod with a user serviceable battery. Then, the rDNA launched and it met every criteria I was hoping to find, but I was broke. Then they had the shark week sale, but I heard the new DNA chip with reverse polarity protection was coming. All in all, I've been waiting to get my hands on this rDNA40 for a year and I can't wait! I just hope I don't get a dud because the stories on here, and now my own experience, tell me it could get to be a headache if I had to deal with their service...

Edit: I dropped my Nemi, with the kick in it, in a lake while fishing over the summer... The battery was fried, but the kick is still going strong. So if juice got in the rDNA it wouldn't worry me much, except for the VS wiring. Something tells me they don't go to the same level Evolve does with their work...

I hope it works out well for all of us.

@ 416isToronto...I agree at the price point some things should be a given...the skins might help with the button issue though...although on the flip side, you shouldn't need a skin to have a button that does not scratch up on you. I bought skins and will use them...lol...first for the color and now for the button scratching.
 

EuroChris

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Sweaty fingers are a paint killer, especially chrome plated stuff. Some peoples sweat are more harsh on the paint than others. I know this, because my hands kill paint like there is no tomorrow. I remember when phones had buttons. My phone would have blank buttons within a few months if they were of painted plastic, rubber buttons were fine.

It would probably have been a better idea to have stainless steel buttons instead of chrome plated buttons. They look better, and they don't wear.
 

shawnthor

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Nice Jeff Foxworthy reference :D

I think most aren't thinking how they actually use their devices and getting caught up in the numbers. I know there's some crazy sub-ohmers here but I think most average users wouldn't go near the limits. I tend to vape 1.2-1.8 ohms at 8-10 watts daily (currently 6.5 watts on an Istick with 1.6 ohm build).

I don't know much about batteries, but what if the battery is damaged when pulling it out or dropped on the ground. Isn't the composition of ICRs known to be less safe when they go rouge due to the composition? I am assuming that the battery could have issues other then just operating the device.
 

HOPS

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fyi phone support people make peanuts for a living and are not all that high-end. One can hardly expect them to have the skills of a diplomat. It does not surprise me that one of them might have a dubious response to a potential issue...using terms like "use it as an excuse"...not shocking.

I get that, but I took it more as a momentary lapse of filter, and felt he was stating the naked truth... They might just arbitrarily try to find an excuse to deny a warranty issue, rather than try to make it right...
 
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KTMRider

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I don't know much about batteries, but what if the battery is damaged when pulling it out or dropped on the ground. Isn't the composition of ICRs known to be less safe when they go rouge due to the composition? I am assuming that the battery could have issues other then just operating the device.

Not really. The only real issue is over charging and over discharging ICR's. Both are protected from happening on most if not all regulated devices. Most of the catastrophic failures happen with real crappy batteries. Rarely would you see that from Sanyo, Sony, Samsung, LG or Panasonic (the major players in batteries).

You shouldn't use a damaged battery ever, regardless of the type or composition. I would assume that's just common sense (although not so common).
 

shawnthor

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Not really. The only real issue is over charging and over discharging ICR's. Both are protected from happening on most if not all regulated devices. Most of the catastrophic failures happen with real crappy batteries. Rarely would you see that from Sanyo, Sony, Samsung, LG or Panasonic (the major players in batteries).

You shouldn't use a damaged battery ever, regardless of the type or composition. I would assume that's just common sense (although not so common).

Yeah, I meant like if you were changing it and dropped it on a hard surface or the back scraped the battery. Learning more and more about batteries as times goes on.
 

KTMRider

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Yeah, I meant like if you were changing it and dropped it on a hard surface or the back scraped the battery. Learning more and more about batteries as times goes on.

18650's have been around for a LONG time. All the doom and gloom stories you hear are from extreme cases. I've been using them in flashlights for years w/o any hint of an issue. Charging was a big thing before all these chargers with 4.2v limiters. Now it's a non-issue. Realistically, if you drop an ICR battery or any battery on a hard surface from a few feet, you should be fine. Now if you threw one at a concrete wall, I wouldn't recommend using that battery.
 

jpcwon

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The NCR18650B is NOT a crappy battery. It's a high quality battery, just not a high amp battery. It's rated for 6.8amps but will pulse to 12amp so probably not a good choice for sub-ohm'ers and possibly irresponsible of VS to include it with a DNA 30 but I would guess 95% of rDNA 30 owners won't have any issues with the battery and the higher capacity would be welcome for most. The DNA 30 max output is 10amp. If you build coils over .8 ohms, you will be fine.
Thanks for the clarification. I retract my statement about it being "crappy" then! Lol...

What's interesting is that I kept getting a "check battery" message with the freshly charged VTC5 I put in the VS...maybe its a bad battery? Not sure.....I have since put a Samsung 25R in it and the message went away....
 

KTMRider

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Thanks for the clarification. I retract my statement about it being "crappy" then! Lol...

What's interesting is that I kept getting a "check battery" message with the freshly charged VTC5 I put in the VS...maybe its a bad battery? Not sure.....I have since put a Samsung 25R in it and the message went away....

Try the Panasonic battery :p
 

Coldpunk

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Same experience here. Careful with my things as well...and just noticed the firing button appearance dergrading last night. Less than a month, no banging around, never kept in a pocket with keys or anything else...absolutely ridiculous for a device at this price point...also not a big deal but already it also has a mark from the tank, just using a nautilus & mini nautilus, no fill screw or any thing... incredible markup for what we are getting...
was picking up a iStick the other day, getting a friend on board with vaping rather than smoking; ended up getting myself one too...for the price it is really great...and honestly if one does not need the 30 watts, it seems like a much better value for your $$. You can probably get one each color for the price of one VS.
Just to explain...I liked the rDNA so much that I got 2...as u said..great device, but at this price the fit & finish and quality control needs to be a lot better. Paying a premium price one expects premium product...


I took all those things into consideration when ordering the rDNA40. The only three options I seriously considered were vaporshark, vapor flask, and hana. Vapor flask was too difficult to get ahold of, and I could see the screen being on top blinding me at night while driving. I really did want the two replaceable batteries though. Hana I only considered for a split second, their known for having pretty crappy customer service also, and after their crooked 510 issues with their dna30 kept me from choosing them. With vapor shark I have some complaints, Batterygate, no longer offering free shipping on all orders, not having the sharkskin as a drop down option for the 40 preorder, paint scratching, leaving the button exposed on the rDNA skins.

I'd still rather have all those issues than have to worry about getting a crooked non adjustable/not spring loaded 510 from hana and having to deal with their customer support.
 

jpcwon

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Try the Panasonic battery :p
You know, I might just do that! :D

I mean after all, most of my builds are between .8 and 1.2 ohms, so it should be fine....I don't know why I said it was crappy....I guess because of the relatively low amp limit....but like you said, as long as your builds are above .8 then it shouldn't be a problem....
 

Heespharm

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So, all this talk of the chip door and leaking juice led me to call their customer service line (just to see what the experience of talking with them would be like as much as anything else). The person I spoke with initially wasn't even sure what I meant by "removing the door on the chip side", but the person he transferred me to stated "if you open the door and put silicone around the seam it could diminish units ability to let gas out if the battery vents. Also if you did seal the seam, then had an issue, if a service tech found any silicone in the bay they could use that as an excuse to say you did something to the chip".

1. The battery is on the other side, so why would it vent through the the chip bay...
2. He said the words "use that as an excuse"...

God, I hope I get a perfect unit straight off... That sounds shady to me all around...

No he's right the chip does need to breath... Either way the chip sits in a plastic sled... The only reason mine shorted was my squape puked all over a tray and my dna sat in the same tray over night leaching through the buttons... There's no way to seal the chip compartment... Don't try it...

Luckily I got a new dna 30 chip and revived it... The usb charging doesn't work anymore so I have to replace the battery or hard wire the wireless pad or rewire a new usb board... At least it's still working tho! :)


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