Do you have a preference between the two? I have someone offering to trade me his Hana dna 40 V3 for my rDNA 40. Worth noting - I do have the newer rDNA with the big screen.
VaporShark rDNA
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Do you have a preference between the two? I have someone offering to trade me his Hana dna 40 V3 for my rDNA 40. Worth noting - I do have the newer rDNA with the big screen.
I'm running 8 wraps of 30 gauge @ 0.18 ohms on my atomic. Slightly spaced coils with Koh Gen Do cotton. I've been running at 25-40 watts and the TC starts throttling 3-4 seconds after fire. It's a very satisfying vape and really the only thing it's missing compared to a normal regulated build is the extra heat.
This specific build was actually pretty easy to install in my Atomic. This rDNA is hitting nice and smooth ... really enjoying it. So far, ... no screen or refinement issues in my unit. I do have to manually turn off temp control on certain atties but not a big deal.
Only con I've had so far with the DNA 40 is the battery meter. Don't know why they continue to try and calculate remaining battery power. Just tell us what's left in the battery and save some programming time. lol
This specific build was actually pretty easy to install in my Atomic. This rDNA is hitting nice and smooth ... really enjoying it. So far, ... no screen or refinement issues in my unit. I do have to manually turn off temp control on certain atties but not a big deal.
Only con I've had so far with the DNA 40 is the battery meter. Don't know why they continue to try and calculate remaining battery power. Just tell us what's left in the battery and save some programming time. lol
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I've been using a rDNA40, hana 40, and the new skinny hana 40.
For me, the definite pros of the shark over the hana are:
1) tooless swapping of batteries. This is huge for me, since I empty a battery by evening and would need to swap out a new one by dinner/drinks time, and I never carry a screw driver with me
2) size! A vaporshark is just so so compact. The new skinny hana is smaller across all dimension, but it's taller. It's almost tubish. I much much prefer a real box form so that's subjective.
3) bigger screen plus zip charging. The screen size isn't a big deal for me. But holy .... the zip charging is SOOOO fast.
Something you might prefer on the hana
1) the Hana I know for sure has SS 510 threads. The rDNA AFAIK is chrome plated brass. That said, the new dna40 vs now has ss 510. Not sure if they've also applied that to the rDNA tho.
2) the finish on the Hana is a little more durable imo. Granted I've had no much issues with mine, but others have had issues with the rDNA finish being awful. The new rubberized finish seems to be a ton better and I've seen way less complaint about that. The Hana's run the typical anodized aluminium. Also, the firing button on the rDNA is chrome plated and gets worn off REAAAAL fast. I don't care, but a ton of people will.
3) some people may find the Hana to be a better size to hold, esp for bigger hands. I value compactness, so it's not applicable for me. Imo both feels super good in the hands.
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Holy crap Q!!!
Any damage??? (hope not)
Any damage??? (hope not)
Tell me about it
Was about to start rebuilding it.
I am running a Silverplay at 40w that never hits tc and I run a Lemo at 32 and would only hit tc on a very long draw. 6 seconds does not hit it.
I am running titanium not nickel but I don't think that would make a big difference. When I started using my DNA40 I was getting bad performance. Over the month or two I have had it I figured out that I was wicking totally wrong. Once you get the wicking right performance will sit in a good spot without hitting tc.
Oh I also run my KFL+s at 23w that rarely hits tc.
I am running titanium not nickel but I don't think that would make a big difference. When I started using my DNA40 I was getting bad performance. Over the month or two I have had it I figured out that I was wicking totally wrong. Once you get the wicking right performance will sit in a good spot without hitting tc.
Oh I also run my KFL+s at 23w that rarely hits tc.
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Thankfully everything is fine buddy. No issues with either the K4 or the rDNA40, except that it has a small speck now
Guessing you meant cons of the Hana over the Shark or pros of the Shark over the Hana. I guess what I'm wondering is, I've heard the build quality and component materials can make a decent difference when using temp control. Have you found any difference between readings when using the same atty with nickel on each mods? I've heard even a .01 ohm difference can make a big different with temp.
Whoops you're right.
Anyways all my atties have read the same across the 3 mods for most parts. Some times there's slight variances across all 3, and it isn't like a single mod is consistently higher or lower than the rest.
Personally I haven't had any issues, and I've been getting a great vape OUTTA both my rdna40s, although you'll see on this thread that some people have had issues. But really that's applicable across all devices it seems.
Then again, there are some people in other dna40 threads who've been trash talking the VS mods because they are made in China. But I can't really agree nor understand that given my own experience.
Maybe someone who has the hana and shark + has the balls and technical expertise to open them up for inspection can chime in. Im speaking purely from a dumb-consumer perspective
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The base resistance is not that important, 0.13, 0.14, 0.15 really does not matter if it is stable
If the base resistance is jumping around then TL will not work correctly all the time or ever depending on how bad the problem connection is.
If the base resistance is jumping around then TL will not work correctly all the time or ever depending on how bad the problem connection is.
I have a hard time believing that. Phil Busardo said it in his DNA 40 review. And I've experienced exactly what he's talking about. I had a perfect (looking and vaping) .12 build in a Marquis clone. Was at 420 and 40 watts and wasn't hitting temp control until it started getting dry - as it should since 420 seems to be the consensus for when cotton starts to char. The next morning I went to vape and it was immediately hitting temp control. Had to bump it up to 480 to keep temp control from kicking in immediately and it felt like it was hitting a little weaker. And was reading .11. It seems like refinement jacked with my build readings. And while the temp control was only kicking in when it was supposed to, I did have to raise the temp above what it should be. Again - worked, just didn't seem accurate.
Believe what you want, l have two of two rDNA40s that work perfectly all the time.
One from pre order (small screen) and one from cyber Monday (large screen)
I experienced some of the things Busardo talked about early on when I had unstable connections
Perhaps Busardo can help you get your stuff working.
One from pre order (small screen) and one from cyber Monday (large screen)
I experienced some of the things Busardo talked about early on when I had unstable connections
Perhaps Busardo can help you get your stuff working.
Personally I could care less where it's made. My Apple products are all made in China. They are all excellent examples of what china can turn out. My MacBook Pro is 5 1/2 years old and never had a issue or even a program crash/lock up. so as far as I'm concerned China can turn out great quality if it's expected of them.
Haha me neither. I owned 3 flasks and those were horrendous. The worst threads I've honestly ever seen in a mod, even compared to a FT clone mech (turning the battery cap on and off actually produces alumn scrapes), janky inconsistent buttons, and I've had my fair share of other issues.
Anyways my point is much like yours: my rDNA has been rock solid, and I don't think there is necessarily a need to be concerned that it's a poorer quality device just because it's made in China
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Never had a program crash or lock up? I envy you. I felt that way back in the snow leopard days but I've had issues ever since then. I still love macs and would never move back to Windows but I've definitely seen some instability haha
Believe what you want, l have two of two rDNA40s that work perfectly all the time.
One from pre order (small screen) and one from cyber Monday (large screen)
I experienced some of the things Busardo talked about early on when I had unstable connections
Perhaps Busardo can help you get your stuff working.
Man. I wish I knew where the issue was. It's definitely not instability because my coils are under screws and locked down tight. I just don't get why refinement would change my vape from one day to the next. Makes no sense to me. Has temp control worked properly on every atty you've tried it on?
It's not just the coils legs being tight. Is your 510 pin screwed in tight? The cleaning the 510 connector on both the mod and the atty. it's crazy what a little cleaning can do.
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Im a little more inclined towards woofer's side in the sense that most of the time the builds are off from what steam engine says by 0.01 or 0.02 ohms. But regardless, as long as I make sure all connections are snug, I get a long lived and good vape.
What atty are you using?
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What atty are you using?
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Still running snow leopard on mine. Never upgrade software unless you have too.
Haha I guess that's my issue. I like new apps and new features
I do find it interesting that I put the Lemo on and the screen scrambles start happening and the flickering of the screen. Stopped using it almost a week ago and it's been fine except for one time with a Kayfun that's 510 pin only sticks out less then a hair. Sometimes it says check atomizer when I use that one. Have to wonder about that. Can connection issues cause the glitches. Both of those atty's worked fine with kanthal builds in my kicked mechs. Maybe in temp lose the chips are just really sensitive to current fluctuations. We are dealing with 0.10 builds.
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