I've noticed on my rDNA gen1 that the center pin of the atty must be in a certain position or it throws off the ni200 readings. one screw position might be 0.21 the next might end up being 0.25 when in reality it should be about 0.16. I'm not sure if this is an atty issue (SquapeR authentic) or something with the spring loaded center pin of the rDNA.
VaporShark rDNA
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^ ah common problem. A good rule of the thumb is for all atties with adjustable 510, always always fully tighten the 510 snug instead of adjusting it outward. Loosing it results in wobble in the 510, and even the slightest will cause inconsistent resistance. I had that same issue across different dna40 devices, and snugging down the 510 pin solves it
Btw you might wanna Google issues associated with the squape R and Nickle builds. There are a lot of users who have reported issues with ni200 builds on them, and common consensus seems to be that the Emetal coating is the cause
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Btw you might wanna Google issues associated with the squape R and Nickle builds. There are a lot of users who have reported issues with ni200 builds on them, and common consensus seems to be that the Emetal coating is the cause
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I liked your suggestion because I know from experience it is true. But, I wanted to know what you've done with your Kayfun 4's.
I have two authentic's about which nothing needs to be done because they come perfect; except, for some people, subbing out the stock spring for the new gold version. I also have, or had, four replicas (three of those packed in a box, in a draw).
I've been thinking of doing the same fix, on the replicas, we use for the R91 and Lemo. My recent Drop started out flaky but I knew immediately what to to: the Nautilus grommet fix.
There are a couple around. One from "woofer". The other I don't remember, perhaps, RandyF. The fix I used is very simple.
Pull the grommet from the short end of a (spent) Nautilus coil, the 510 side. Cut the grommet (cleanly) on the thinner side. Insert that (tiny) piece onto the Lemo 510 pin and tighten it down tight.
Your done.
I knew immediately my (recent) Lemo Drop was foul when I could not get a good Ni200 reading on my ohm reader. Went immediately to my stash of used Nautilus coils: pulled, cut, put on the Lemo 510. End of story. It's been a long time since I "fixed" the R91 so I can't say for sure.
If memory serves, I used the thicker side of the grommet on the R91, but again it's been months since I did it.
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I actually have not done anything to my k4s. For all my atties with adjustable 510, the only thing I've done is to fully tighten the pin tightly.
The only atty I've had to do anything to was the lemo drop, and all I did was to add a 2nm x 1mm Oring to the pin and then tighten it fully.
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Yep thats it, on my R91% 510 the +pin is below the threads and will not make contact.
Adding a small section of tubing to the screw gives it something to tighten against.
I found rubbery things helped and the hard things fixed it.
For those of you who have sent your rDNA 40s back in for warranty work, what was the turn around time? I emailed VS today about my screen issues. They have asked for photos, which I will gladly provide. My new concern is how long this will take. I have fallen in love with TP and can't imagine being without it. I am thinking I may need to buy another TP device to get me by while I am waiting for the return of my beloved rDNA 40.
It took about 10 days total when I sent my first one back. I have two now, like you, don't know what I would do now without TP!
CS at VS was great, I wouldn't hesitate to buy another from them and probably will!!
That's how I ended up with two sharks. A rDNA40 first then I got a DNA40. Especially since all my attys are nickel except for one RDA & one RTA . Course ya always should have backups for your backups so no telling what #3 will be.
So. Ordered a new rDNA with the carbon coating thing. Yup.
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I just did something I said I wouldn't do. While not as bad as buying a clone, I found that Hana had a "slight cosmetic imperfection" DNA 40 listed for $129. They had 4 left in stock at that price, so I jumped. It should serve well as a backup to my rDNA. Buying a Hana made me feel like I cheated on my wife 
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I just did something I said I wouldn't do. While not as bad as buying a clone, I found that Hana had a "slight cosmetic imperfection" DNA 40 listed for $129. They had 4 left in stock at that price, so I jumped. It should serve well as a backup to my rDNA. Buying a Hana make me feel like I cheated on my wife
Nothing wrong with diversifying your arsenal!
The only thing keeping me from considering the hana was the fact that you'll need tools to swap out the batteries. Face palm
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I just did something I said I wouldn't do. While not as bad as buying a clone, I found that Hana had a "slight cosmetic imperfection" DNA 40 listed for $129. They had 4 left in stock at that price, so I jumped. It should serve well as a backup to my rDNA. Buying a Hana make me feel like I cheated on my wife
Ha! Know what you mean! Just did a similar thing (buying a Hana I mean, not cheating on the wife ...)
Haha that's the one feature I have absolutely no interest in.
Pretty much the only functions I actually use is changing wattage, locking device and changing temperature
The carbon coating though, that I do want >
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Please help, I've been using the Magma RDA on my rDNA40. Everytime I use it, it works well in the beginning, but after I vape it for a while (1-2hours), it starts to work not very well (very little vapor production), then I always have to unscrew both screw and tighten it up again. It will show "New Coil Up", then I press (+) to accpet it. After that, it would work perfect like the beginning. It's very annoying because I have to unscrew and screw every 2hours, what should I do?? Thanks for helping, please forgive my bad English T_T
Sounds like you're hitting temperature protection prematurely.
Logically, it means that a few hours after vaping, somehow the base resistance is now being read higher than the original base resistance (which is still locked in). Pretty much indicative of a bad connection.
You mentioned that tightening up the screw solves the problem. Assuming that you do in fact let the atty and mod cool down properly, have you compared the resistance when you've first built the atomizer, and the resistance after you've had the issue and tightened the screws to solve it?
My recommendation is:
1) check on steam engine to see what's the expected resistance of your build
2) check the base resistance when you've first fire your build, and it is VAPING fine. This resistance should be relatively close to the steam engine expected reading. Unlikely exactly the same until refinement has done its job.
3) when it starts having issue, don't touch the atty whatsoever. Turn TP off, and let both mods and atty cool for 10 mins.
4) fire the atty now for just a split second: enough for you to take the resistance reading.
5) tighten the post screws, wait a minute and then pulse fire the atty for a split second to take the resistance reading again.
From what you've described, I reckon the first and third readings should be relatively close, and the second reading higher than both those two. Try that and report back?
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thank you very much!! gonna try it when I get home, it's so complicated, I really enjoy the vape with nickel wire but this is killing me
Sorry TheKiwi, I think it's my bad English. I meant I do not have to tighten the screw, it's super tight already, I have to loose the screw and tighten it up again everytime.
By the way, it just happened again, my build was 0.17ohm...I vaped for an hour and then put it down for like 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, it doesnt work again (very little vapor production), it read 0.15ohm. And then I turned the TP off, it immediately read 0.22 ohm..... I'm still letting it cool down.....sigh...so sad
By the way, it just happened again, my build was 0.17ohm...I vaped for an hour and then put it down for like 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, it doesnt work again (very little vapor production), it read 0.15ohm. And then I turned the TP off, it immediately read 0.22 ohm..... I'm still letting it cool down.....sigh...so sad
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