VaporShark rDNA

[NOVA jon]

Bow, I would try to contact evolve, the makers of the chip! Everything I've read says they are very helpful to try and solve problems people are encountering with devices that contain their chip!

I will say that when everything has a solid connection, you won't have to "adjust" your shark by prompting the new coil screen to get the vape you desire!

 

[Brettanomyces]

The problem is that if you leave a battery in the mod for a week, it will be discharged below 2.7 volts and can be thrown out

I've let mine sit overnight with a nearly dead battery and when I got up it was at exactly the same level, I've never bothered to check the voltage levels like you did though.

 

[Woofer]

The problem is that if you leave a battery in the mod for a week, it will be discharged below 2.7 volts and can be thrown out

No it will not discharge the battery to below manufacturers specs.

I've let mine sit overnight with a nearly dead battery and when I got up it was at exactly the same level, I've never bothered to check the voltage levels like you did though.

 

[RandyF]

I have been letting my newer one sit for a couple days with a full battery and it was still full this morning. If mine was draining my battery in a couple days, or a week for that matter, without use, I would definitely be calling/emailing Evolv.

 

[TheKiwi]

Does "still full" mean based on the battery meter reading? Or based off the readings off a charger or volt meter? Cos that would make a huge difference.


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[oadslug]

I recently received a VaporShark DNA40 (large screen, latest build as far as I know) — my first VW device! Coming from exclusively mech mods and RDAs... currently 4Nine/Magma. Overall I really like it. Looks great. Nice and compact. A little weighty, but not too bad. I have been having one problem though that I'm trying to understand/fix. At least once a day (or more), I have been getting the 'check atomizer' warning (in kanthal, non-TP mode), which takes awhile to go away. Not sure what is causing it. It seems to be quite random. Sometimes after sitting for a few minutes or after I re-drip. The only thing I can think of is that maybe the juice is flooding the atty and shorting the connection? Is that possible? If that's the case, not sure how to fix it other than placing the RDA on my mech, vaping it for a few seconds to clear the flood and then putting it back on the DNA (which seems to work some of the time). Either that, or just the swapping back and forth resets the error somehow. The other thing that is odd, is the Ohm readout occasionally reads zero after a vape (irregardless of whether it's currently displaying the 'check atomizer' issue). Is it always taking an resistance reading or only when you push the button? And why would it ever read zero? Wondering if all this is normal and to be expected or if my device is acting weird and should be checked/returned? I'll test with a few more attys and report back.

Overall, seems a bit overly sensitive. Wish I could just turn off the protections when I need to. I'm liking it when it's working, but right now, not feeling overly confident in this thing without having a backup mech with me. Not ideal.

 

[KTMRider]

Do you have that issue with all atomizers? The DNA40 should always show the resistance reading from the last fire button press. I'm running a DNA40 (Hana clone I made) with kanthal (Infinite CLT v2 .94Ω dual coil) and never had a "check atomizer" warning. I'm running Ni200 in KF4's on 3 other DNA40 devices and never had that issue on those either.

The DNA40 chip is sensitive because it needs to be. Once you figure it out, you'll absolutely love it.

 

[Haylon357]

Okay. I'm a little confused here. I got the rdna 40 VS when they were first released and have yet to have a problem out of it. Are these older models that are playing out or newer ones?

Tapped from my LG G3

 

[oadslug]

Do you have that issue with all atomizers? The DNA40 should always show the resistance reading from the last fire button press. I'm running a DNA40 (Hana clone I made) with kanthal (Infinite CLT v2 .94Ω dual coil) and never had a "check atomizer" warning. I'm running Ni200 in KF4's on 3 other DNA40 devices and never had that issue on those either.

The DNA40 chip is sensitive because it needs to be. Once you figure it out, you'll absolutely love it.

- Magma clone, kanthal mode, single coil 1.2 ohm (my main atty) happens one or twice a day (once it starts seems to be finicky for awhile).
- Kayfun mini 2.1, kanthal mode, single coil 1.3 ohm, I have never been able to get working - always says "check atomizer"
- Quasar, Ni200, TC mode, single coil .18 ohm, so far works every time, but haven't use it much as I prefer the magma
- All of these work great on a mech, everytime. No problems ever.

 

[TheKiwi]

Okay. I'm a little confused here. I got the rdna 40 VS when they were first released and have yet to have a problem out of it. Are these older models that are playing out or newer ones?

Tapped from my LG G3

For many batches, there were always a % of chips that were wonky. It's only in the latest iteration that there's an assurance it's completely glitch free.

Like you (and many others), I also have a first batch rdna40 that has remained glitch free. Be thankful and embrace that haha


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[KTMRider]

- Magma clone, kanthal mode, single coil 1.2 ohm (my main atty) happens one or twice a day (once it starts seems to be finicky for awhile).
- Kayfun mini 2.1, kanthal mode, single coil 1.3 ohm, I have never been able to get working - always says "check atomizer"
- Quasar, Ni200, TC mode, single coil .18 ohm, so far works every time, but haven't use it much as I prefer the magma
- All of these work great on a mech, everytime. No problems ever.

It sounds like your VS might have a bad wire connection to the 510 somewhere inside the mod. I would contact VS.

 

[jhhollier]

Can I use a 5v2a micro USB cable to charge it?

 

[TheKiwi]

Can I use a 5v2a micro USB cable to charge it?

That's what I'm using. It's kinda strange how fast these things charge. Like in the "is my battery FUGGING with me" kinda fast


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[oadslug]

It sounds like your VS might have a bad wire connection to the 510 somewhere inside the mod. I would contact VS.

Update... turns out the kayfun doesn't work on the mech either so obviously need to recoil it. And I wrapped a new coil on the magma (dual coil .8 ohms) which seems to be working more reliably (so far). So maybe was just a loose connection. I'll report back, if I still see a problem. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the input!

 

[oadslug]

Btw... has anyone tried replacing the battery themselves on VS DNS40? How did you do it? And how did it go?

 

[KTMRider]

Btw... has anyone tried replacing the battery themselves on VS DNS40? How did you do it? And how did it go?

I replaced a battery in one of my DNA30's. It uses a different battery than the DNA40 but it's the same simple solder job. The DNA30 uses a 1200mah Lipo that I bought from HobbyKing for $3 and the DNA40 uses LG HE2 (~$7).

 

[oadslug]

I replaced a battery in one of my DNA30's. It uses a different battery than the DNA40 but it's the same simple solder job. The DNA30 uses a 1200mah Lipo that I bought from HobbyKing for $3 and the DNA40 uses LG HE2 (~$7).

I havent opened mine - only seen pictures. Just a couple solder points to heat? Guess I'll be buying a soldering gun next—where does it end?

 

[Woofer]

Are there and safety concerns with soldering lipos?

 

[KTMRider]

Are there and safety concerns with soldering lipos?

Lipos usually have tabs to solder on to. When you solder LiIon batteries, you should be careful not to overheat it. When I soldered my LG HE2 for my Hana mini clone, I tinned the contacts with about 5 mins between + and - to let the battery cool down. Then tin the wires and there's minimal heat transfer when you solder the wire to the battery. Flux is your friend.

 

[Woofer]

Thanks KTM