I read on VS website that there is a "resistance lock" feature, how does that work and how to know if I have it on my VS rDNA40?
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VaporShark rDNA
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As I understand it you hold the + and - the way you would to lock the watts. So I guess the watts lock has gone away. If that is true I wish they would have just done it with say 3 clicks of the plus or minus button to lock the ohms. Though I really would have just preferred the wattage lock to the ohm lock. I'll find out soon since my rDNA should be back in a days or so.
your right but if you press the fire button 5 times and lock the device and then hold down the + & - buttons this will allow you to set or turn off the temp control on the Rdna 40 vaporshark.
I have found that standard, old school spaced coils work best with ni200and temp control. Still trying to figure that one out.
I dug up this reddit thread where VS has been selling off their old stock after they advertised their new chip. It also looks like they went around the screen issue by just resetting the screen at every button press rather than ironing it out completely.
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_..._dont_trust_that_vapor_shark_has_fixed_their/
Anyway, waiting for my RMA'd rDNA40 to Korea will update once I get it.
http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_..._dont_trust_that_vapor_shark_has_fixed_their/
Anyway, waiting for my RMA'd rDNA40 to Korea will update once I get it.
Has anyone had issues with the paint / coating on the fire button? Mine seems like a bronze'ish color now. Been used everday for about 3 months.
Im thinking of sticking one of those like..colored circular stickers on there..like for the iphone home button.
Im thinking of sticking one of those like..colored circular stickers on there..like for the iphone home button.
I've worn through two layers to a third on my button, the original finish, a coppery colored layer, and a brass colored layer under both of those.
I've been meaning to pick up some black nail polish to paint fishing lures with and I'm thinking about painting the button with some. Actually I'm going to get some in bright pink, orange, and chartreuse as well but I think I'll stick with black for the button.
I just sold off my second rDNA 40W after the adoption of a SXmini M. However still keep the remaining VFs.
I'm on my 3rd rDNA, and this one that came 2 weeks ago was the newly updated chip. And I can say I've had zero issues. The screen does refresh after you let go of the fire button, which fixes the glitchy screen. I left my rDNA with a battery for a week while I went on vacation, came back and battery level was still the same. The battery meter definitely seems to be fixed on this one too, actually depletes at a level you would expect.
All in all, very happy now after screwing around with glitchy ones for over 3 months.
My latest rdna has also been flawless. And now that iCGM brought it up he's right. The battery meter seems to work better now!
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I know I need to charge or change the batteries soon with my rDNA40 (11/14 build) when the battery meter starts to move around. I built 3 other DNA40 mods with the latest version and the large screen versions are more accurate. I haven't used the small screen long enough so I can't really comment on it but it does seem to act like my rDNA40.
The new chip is working well, I got mine back 2 days ago. Built a .14 26 gauge ni200 and chain vaped it yesterday, and it works great. Even stress tested until the device got hot and needed to cool down to fire again and had no glitch screen issue with kanthal/ni200. Screen refreshes when you let go of the fire button. Battery indicator is much better as well, no more jumpy battery levels. Power/atty lock still works with kanthal (locks watts), atty lock with ni200 locks the ohm and refinement and still able to change watts. Good thing I waited to exchange until this new revised version of the chip.
I just got mine back 2 days ago also. Board replaced and working great so far. Forgot I had bought a "Bad Wolf" TARDIS wrap for it months ago when I first ordered the rDNA. I think I might finally be able to install it.
At first I didn't like giving up the watts lock in temp protection mode. But I can see the benefits to locking the ohms. I have a very nice generic ErlK and a junky version from angelcigs. The nice one works flawlessly. The angelcigs version changes ohms depending on how hard I tighten it to either of my sharks or my ohm meter. It starts off at .15 if just snugged down. Jumps to .18 if tightened any more. Then after a while I'll notice a huge spike in temp. The atty pops really loud and the vapor gets very hot (I'm set at 430 @ 12 watts). I'll flip it over and fire it to see what's happening and find the wattage jumping up to 39 watts and the ohms at .22 to .25. Tried it with the ohms lock on at the .15 and it worked fine. So I guess that's the purpose. To keep junky atty's from jumping around. Maybe I can go back to using my Lemo without having to modify it. Gotta try that next.
At first I didn't like giving up the watts lock in temp protection mode. But I can see the benefits to locking the ohms. I have a very nice generic ErlK and a junky version from angelcigs. The nice one works flawlessly. The angelcigs version changes ohms depending on how hard I tighten it to either of my sharks or my ohm meter. It starts off at .15 if just snugged down. Jumps to .18 if tightened any more. Then after a while I'll notice a huge spike in temp. The atty pops really loud and the vapor gets very hot (I'm set at 430 @ 12 watts). I'll flip it over and fire it to see what's happening and find the wattage jumping up to 39 watts and the ohms at .22 to .25. Tried it with the ohms lock on at the .15 and it worked fine. So I guess that's the purpose. To keep junky atty's from jumping around. Maybe I can go back to using my Lemo without having to modify it. Gotta try that next.
Update on the newest small screen DNA40. After vaping my orange cloupor box with a small screen DNA40 for a couple of days, the battery meter seems to work like the large screen (better). All 4 DIY boards I have were from the co-op and have the latest firmware (mfg'd late march). Even though my rDNA40 was from Nov 14, they all work great and I have had no issues with any of them.
I have a small screen VS rDNA 40 with about the same date and no issues.
In the past if there was a wait Vapor Shark always placed a banner at the top of the page saying how many days it would be before shipment. I didn't see one there now so there is likely no delay in rDNA shipments.
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