My first rda was an infinite magma. Just to give dripping a try
Then came the Origen, Magma, Vulcan. All authentics BF Odin on the way VaporShark rDNA
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My first rda was an infinite magma. Just to give dripping a try Then came the Origen, Magma, Vulcan. All authentics BF Odin on the way 
Nope.
I got so excited when I saw a TOBH in the B&M that I bought it, and on the way home thought.... wait a minute, that was $29...
It's a total counterfeit right down to fake serial number, went in the trash.
Along those same lines I refuse to buy a fake DNA.
But I digress and there are many threads about the pros/cons of non-originals.
Almost all my stuff is authentic. I vaped on a Provari mini with carto tanks and clearos for a long time. I have bought two clones during my time vaping. When I was testing the waters to improve my vaping. A cloupor to check out the DNA 30 style. Liked it so I bought the Vaporshark to support John at Evolv. Used the magma clone as a tester to see if I liked RDAs and some of the reviews said they preferred the threading. I think if I am going to do the RDA thing I would prefer to do bottom fed. Currently, I am very happy with my Vaporshark RDNA and my erlkonigin with a svoemesto kayfun lite plus v2 backup. Although the Kayfun draw seems to tight even with the AFC screw out after the Erlkonigin. I have lots of authentic gear. I understand the whole clone controversy and I try to support innovation.
I understand buying a clone to test a new platform. I still love my ProVari's and my kayfuns and use them everyday.
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I buy clones and authentics. The 2 main reason why I buy a clone:
1. To test it out, see if I like the way it works (mostly with mods), and to see how easy/hard it is to build (with atty's)
2. When I go "out on the town" such as drinking or vegas or even conventions, I bring clones so I dont feel bad if I lose it, break it, or get it stolen
This does mean I pay "more" than just the price of the authentic, but its great to have a ton of backups lol and it's the easiest way I can swap flavors by having a ton of setups on hand ready to vape
1. To test it out, see if I like the way it works (mostly with mods), and to see how easy/hard it is to build (with atty's)
2. When I go "out on the town" such as drinking or vegas or even conventions, I bring clones so I dont feel bad if I lose it, break it, or get it stolen
This does mean I pay "more" than just the price of the authentic, but its great to have a ton of backups lol and it's the easiest way I can swap flavors by having a ton of setups on hand ready to vape
Email them first to get their attention. I did my order when they say backorder, and mine shipped the next day.
Hey guys - just ordered a rdna - was wandering how the finish of the mod goes after a while... does it chip or scratch easy? There were no shark skins where i ordered it so i am guessing ill just have to take care for a while. Thanks for any help you can provide.
It's a baked finish from what I can tell so I wouldn't worry about chips.
Great little device!!!!!!
Great little device!!!!!!
Can anyone tell me what happens when the DNA30 fires, but is too low to be regulated (flashing resistance reading)? I ask because I dropped my settings all the way down to 7w on a .6Ω coil and got a really pleasurable vape (on a Magma -- since it gets so hot), but while it says it is firing at 3.5v, I wonder if it is just using the battery like a mechanical device would. I put it on a mech and it felt similar.
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Mr Mann, I believe it reverts to whats in battery/ The ohm symbol will blink also showing it is using pure battery.
Hmmm..okay, that makes sense. I wonder then if that is not necessarily a good thing to do since it isn't regulated.
It won't hurt the device. It's just not regulating the voltage.
no issues with the body. the area directly around the 510 is scratched, from damn Russian Fill screw not being properly seated.( user error ) beyond that, a Shark Skin is advisable just because, when they become available, but all in all, my black rDNA, has not endured any other markings, other than the top around the 510 ( which is always covered anyway, when in use )..
I have never had any trouble with any of my dna30 devices. I do it all the time..
After watching the 2 part interview with PBusardo and Evolv, in part referencing the new chip eVolv is making for Innokins SVD 2. I think the new Evolv chip will have several new features. True voltage regulation, with step up and down. Possibly down to 1.5 - 2 volts. Evolv will also add temperature control for board/ battery safety, along with the much needed reverse battery protection. I don't think they will get involved in the watts race. We are now hearing about 200 watt devices coming by the end of the year. This is great for the sub ohm crowd, but not needed for the main stream vaper. I doubt they will make a chip over 35 watts. Perhaps we will see the ability to change OLED display colors and control dimming and dsplay time on. Maybe even the much needed puff counter ( facetiousness added ).
So to keep this on topic, what do you all or y'all (for those in the south) think will be in the next rDNA? And what features will it have?
So to keep this on topic, what do you all or y'all (for those in the south) think will be in the next rDNA? And what features will it have?
I'd be happy with just improvements to the existing functionality. I have a clone DNA board in a FT box mod, as well as the authentic one in the VS, and there are a couple things that I like better about the clone board.
For one, the clone board has a much faster refresh than the authentic one. As some one pointed out earlier in this thread, the authentic board refreshes so slowly that when you hit the fire button, it looks almost like it has to "think" about what the voltage is going to be. With the clone board, the voltage just flashes on. As a sub-desire to this one, I'd like to see the voltage indicator stay put after the first fire on the attached atty. It would be nice to be able to see what voltage you're going to fire with the set wattage and resistance, rather than having to fire it.
Second, the authentic board takes forever to wake up out of lock. Until I realized that the screen actually got brighter for a second once the fifth click was hit, but still read "locked", I kept clicking away furiously, thinking I'd mis-counted or missed the timing or something. On my clone board, once I hit 5 click, the screen brightens and it unlocks instantly. A minor annoyance, but, since I use both devices regularly, I do fumble with it from time to time. To the authentic board's credit, though, you do have a much longer window to get your five clicks in. I think the clone maker misunderstood the spec sheet, where it says the clicks have to be at least as close as 0.2 seconds apart, to mean that all 5 clicks had to come within 0.2 seconds. Man, with the clone board, you really have to take a breath, steel you reflexes, and click like a cricket to get them in fast enough.
Third, I'd like to see the real-time battery monitoring that the SX chip has. If my battery is drooping, it would be nice to have the board tell me so.
Probably all moot points, though, as far as evolve is concerned, since I am pretty satisfied with both mods and don't reckon I'll buy any others until one of these fails on me. I'd really like to have an SX350, but these two "DNA" boards work well enough for me for now.
(aside: I'm guessing the puff counter will be in there just to make Innokin happy. When you sell as many units as the MVP, you have some pull when it comes to design).
For one, the clone board has a much faster refresh than the authentic one. As some one pointed out earlier in this thread, the authentic board refreshes so slowly that when you hit the fire button, it looks almost like it has to "think" about what the voltage is going to be. With the clone board, the voltage just flashes on. As a sub-desire to this one, I'd like to see the voltage indicator stay put after the first fire on the attached atty. It would be nice to be able to see what voltage you're going to fire with the set wattage and resistance, rather than having to fire it.
Second, the authentic board takes forever to wake up out of lock. Until I realized that the screen actually got brighter for a second once the fifth click was hit, but still read "locked", I kept clicking away furiously, thinking I'd mis-counted or missed the timing or something. On my clone board, once I hit 5 click, the screen brightens and it unlocks instantly. A minor annoyance, but, since I use both devices regularly, I do fumble with it from time to time. To the authentic board's credit, though, you do have a much longer window to get your five clicks in. I think the clone maker misunderstood the spec sheet, where it says the clicks have to be at least as close as 0.2 seconds apart, to mean that all 5 clicks had to come within 0.2 seconds. Man, with the clone board, you really have to take a breath, steel you reflexes, and click like a cricket to get them in fast enough.
Third, I'd like to see the real-time battery monitoring that the SX chip has. If my battery is drooping, it would be nice to have the board tell me so.
Probably all moot points, though, as far as evolve is concerned, since I am pretty satisfied with both mods and don't reckon I'll buy any others until one of these fails on me. I'd really like to have an SX350, but these two "DNA" boards work well enough for me for now.
(aside: I'm guessing the puff counter will be in there just to make Innokin happy. When you sell as many units as the MVP, you have some pull when it comes to design).
Major score tonight.
I'm in ABQ on business. I stopped in a little hole-in-the-wall shop. They were well stocked and had good prices. They had a single VTC5 for $14. I checked it against the sun vapes info and it checked out authentic. The shop owner seemed knowledgable enough but had no idea that you couldn't get VTCs anymore. Claimed that e expected more in next week. I took the card and said I'd call him next week to check.
It was definitely an authentic battery. Jazzed to finally have found one.
I'm in ABQ on business. I stopped in a little hole-in-the-wall shop. They were well stocked and had good prices. They had a single VTC5 for $14. I checked it against the sun vapes info and it checked out authentic. The shop owner seemed knowledgable enough but had no idea that you couldn't get VTCs anymore. Claimed that e expected more in next week. I took the card and said I'd call him next week to check.
It was definitely an authentic battery. Jazzed to finally have found one.
I must be really out-of-touch right now, because I had no idea that there was something going on with access to OG VTCs. What's up with that? Just OOS everywhere, or are they actually no longer being restocked?
Global supply shortage.... too many people with mech mods sub-ohming
This is the only 'news' I've read other than second hand reports: Status 8/26: Samsung 25R added, some housekeeping | Protovapor.com
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