For those who have recently received their rDNAs...or if you know...Have their been any other changes to it other than the battery??? Buttons any better? Is the black much different than the finish before the GM was discontinued?
VaporShark rDNA
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No VTC4 and all buttons rattle which does not bother me (button rattle). See my pic on the previous page for the color.
There is a warning about the 510 and leaks on the site, so I would say its not leak proof, but my tanks don't leak. I assume that they would only put that there if they had an issue in the past.
Disclaimer: If you experience any leaking from your atomizer, make sure to check and clean any E-Liquid that may have leaked into the 510 connector.
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Yeah, and liquid can also leak into the seams where the panels are. Make sure your stuff doesn't leak because this thing doesn't need any help to break or malfunction.
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Especially with a sharkskin that will trap any eliquid against the body, and the battery door.
Combined with this on the site as voiding the warranty.
Devices that have damages caused by water, E-liquid, and/or aqueous solutions
Devices that have been tampered with [Opening the VS DNA™ and rDNA™ (electrical components section) will void your warranty]
So any eliquid that makes it through the adjustable 510 can't be cleaned.
A leak proof non adjustable 510 is better than devices failing.
In my estimation design flaws creating a risk of eliquid getting into the electronics don't make me happy.
Okay, I just got a VS rDNA from the VS booth set up at the VCCTN convention here in Chattanooga last Sun. So far I am extremely happy with it. It did come with the Panasonic NRC 18650B and I do plan getting another battery. The lowest ohms I go thus far are 1.6 and up to 2.5. Am vaping right now at 9 watts on 2 ohms. Obviously, I'm not a sub ohm'er and favor cooler vapes.
Is it safe for me to get the same Panasonic battery or should I buy a different one? I do chain vape, and this Panasonic lasts me a straight 13-14 hrs. of constant vaping. My toppers are either the Nauti's with the BVC's or ProTanks rebuilt with 30 Kanthal at 1.8 ohms wicked with cellu cotton.
Any info would be appreciated. Thank you.
Is it safe for me to get the same Panasonic battery or should I buy a different one? I do chain vape, and this Panasonic lasts me a straight 13-14 hrs. of constant vaping. My toppers are either the Nauti's with the BVC's or ProTanks rebuilt with 30 Kanthal at 1.8 ohms wicked with cellu cotton.
Any info would be appreciated. Thank you.
At 9 watts, you're fine with that battery. Take your set wattage and divide by 2.5. That will give you the maximum current actually being demanded from the battery toward the end of its charge. At 9 watts, that's 3.6 amps. The NCR18650B is rated 6.8 amps, so it has plenty of safety margin for your application. Of course at 30 watts, that wouldn't be the case; you'd need a battery rated 12A absolute minimum, and 15-20 would be more appropriate (adding in some "engineering safety factor").
I still think VS is nuts shipping a 30 watt device with a battery that can only run the device safely at 15-20 watts. It's one thing for the user to install "wrong" battery (particularly if he knows what he's doing), but it's entirely another for the manufacturer to ship the product that way.
I still think VS is nuts shipping a 30 watt device with a battery that can only run the device safely at 15-20 watts. It's one thing for the user to install "wrong" battery (particularly if he knows what he's doing), but it's entirely another for the manufacturer to ship the product that way.
Thank you, Rossum, for so quickly answering my question! However, your answer has led me to another question. 
I'm assuming (we all know what that can lead to) that on this particular Panasonic battery I shouldn't go above 15 watts. Has my assuming made an --- out of me?
However, your answer has led me to another question. I'm assuming (we all know what that can lead to) that on this particular Panasonic battery I shouldn't go above 15 watts. Has my assuming made an --- out of me? 
Vaporshark doesn't want to hear it. After I pointed out to them that it was a bad idea, they doubled down and repeated that it safe to use on builds down to 0.65 ohms. It's frightening that they don't even understand how a VW device works.
Personally, I wouldn't be concerned if they were using one of the 10 amp Panasonics (PD, PF, BD). I use them in my DNA30s frequently and have tested all three of those cells (10 amps continuous discharge) and know how they perform.
I won't buy another Vaporshark. Unfortunately that's going to hurt me more than them, because I've really enjoyed them.
Your assumption is correct.Thank you, Rossum, for so quickly answering my question!
Technically correct, but not enough "Engineering Safety Margin" for my taste. I vape the DNA30 I use the most (a bottom feeder) at 15-16 watts, and personally would not use the NCR18650B in that application. I do use (and prefer) NCR18650PF batteries for that.
Thank you, Mitro. I don't go as high as 15 watts, but it's good information to know the limits of my batteries. Got the VS rDNA not because the device can go to 30 watts with proper battery, but because it's Am. made, repairable, replaceable battery, small form factor, .........and Sharkskins! Yeah, the power factor is wasted on me. 
I don't go as high as 15 watts, but it's good information to know the limits of my batteries. Got the VS rDNA not because the device can go to 30 watts with proper battery, but because it's Am. made, repairable, replaceable battery, small form factor, .........and Sharkskins! Yeah, the power factor is wasted on me.
Are you sure?
The DNA board in it is American-made, but there are a number of indications that rest of the mod is made of pure chinesium and is assembled there as well.
What indications? I've heard this before but haven't seen any evidence. Can you share?
It's not enough for my taste either. Just a little back of the envelop math:
Using Evolv's "Max Amps" of 12, the efficiency works out to 78.125%. (I assume there is actually a bit of safety margin already figured in there, but let's say there isn't).
15 watts out / .78125 = 19.2 watts in
19.2 watts in / 3.2v (DNA low voltage cut-off) = 6 Amps (yes I could have just divided by 2
)17 watts output would be 6.8A from the cell (at 3.2v)
The problem is that being used that close to it's max, the lifespan of the cell will be short. Not to mention that a cell like the "B" has a large portion of it capacity below the relatively high low voltage cut-off of the DNA.
I'm going to blow the dust off of my tester and get some B vs. VTC4 graphs.
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When I had a shipping issue on my first purchase, they told me that their boxes got held up by customs. This solidified the reviewers that have said that the boxes are made in China.
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