Well mine landed in Florida yesterday. Wonder if I'll get it back by Christmas? 
VaporShark rDNA
- Thread starter ClintS
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Where did you get it?
Ive been looking but temco has been oos
Welp. Just redid it. It's consistent.
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Steam Engine doesn't agree, according to it, you should be at half that resistance. I'm not calling you a liar, but seeing your build I was just trying to calculate a coil around .14 using twisted 30g. With a 3mm ID the I would need 15 wraps to get there. 8 wraps with a 3mm ID, according to SE, would put you at .09. Weird that you have done it twice with the same result.
Shrug. I have no idea. I've done it with a r91 (adjustable 510), and an erlk (non adjustable). All my connections are really snug too.
On another note, calculators for twisted wires are terribly inaccurate. The simple fact that different people achieve different degrees of twistedness would already make a big difference in the resistance per length of a wire.
ETA: after about an hour, it's dropped to 0.15 and stayed there since.
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Some people here take things SO serious. Good lord...
Want to be serious? Go join the Marine Corps
Kiwi- how do you like the lemo!?
Want to be serious? Go join the Marine Corps
Kiwi- how do you like the lemo!?
Some people here take things SO serious. Good lord...
Want to be serious? Go join the Marine Corps
Kiwi- how do you like the lemo!?
Hey. Heeeey. Not all of us are thaaaaat serious! NOW APOLOGIZE DAMNIT
Still have not received it yet. Scowls. Hoping I'll see it on Monday. Managed to score a sweeeet erlk nano too so I've excited. I like tiny atties on the shark
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So far, this thing rocks, can't wait for my other one to get here on Monday!!
I ordered the black lemo to go on it too. Looking at your picture and the size comparison, thinking I shoulda got the lemo drop.
Kiwi those coils looks awesome. Great job man! Going to pick up some 30 gauge and start experimenting with twisted builds.
Yea it's a little oversized for the 40 but I've got the black eVic supreme and it's pretty wicked on that hybrid. I need to talk with tchivel and find out where he got his smaller tube for it but the drop is deff in the future!
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So after having some success with the russian nickel build, my dna dropped out of tp mode and the ohms went from .20 to .09. Put it on the ohm meter and it said .09 as well. Have no clue why. Took the atty apart and didn't see any issues with the coil. Went ahead and decided to wrap another one. Same build on 6-32 screw...28 gauge 10 wraps. Ohm meter was going crazy. Ohms were going all over the place in the hundreds. Put it on the shark and it read .17 ohms. Fired well. Put it back on the ohm meter and same thing....ohms in the hundreds bouncing around. I have no idea why this is doing this. Everything is secured well and it fires on the shark.
Anyways I got frustrated with the ohm reading issues between the shark and the ohm meter and decided to just go back to kanthal. I plan on trying a nickel build on my kayfun tonight and see if I have any issues with the ohm meter. If i don't then this leads me to believe the russian 510 post/screw are causing issues with nickel. No problems with kanthal though.
Anyways I got frustrated with the ohm reading issues between the shark and the ohm meter and decided to just go back to kanthal. I plan on trying a nickel build on my kayfun tonight and see if I have any issues with the ohm meter. If i don't then this leads me to believe the russian 510 post/screw are causing issues with nickel. No problems with kanthal though.
I put an oring between the 510 pin and the center post screw on my russian 91% v2 and haven't had any spinning positive block issues anymore, unless I really crank down the positive post screw.
Not sure I quite understand. The removable/adjustable 510 pin or the actual center post that screws into the positive deck? My 510 adjustable screw had a little o-ring on it and I put two more on there so I could get it to stick out far enough and make contact. After cranking down the center post last night, the 510 pin was recessed and couldn't make a connection. I tried backing it out but it was too loose. The extra o-rings fixed this though.
It's good to hear that twisted 30g works and is more robust. The Ni200 I ordered was delivered yesterday and it is SOFT, everyone said it was but I underestimated just how soft it is. I'm not sure how you'd ever wick a coil made with the regular 30/32g wire other than wrapping it around the wicking. Though I haven't tried cold tempering it and it does seem less springy than kanthal.
I put one of the orings from the screwdriver that came with it on the removable/adjustable 510 pin. Also, hold the positive block and tighten down the center post with the 510 pin out, but be careful not to bust the insulator.
So I just built a nickel coil on my kayfun. Still getting crazy readings on the ohm meter. VS is showing .15 and the coil is firing properly and hitting TP at 420 F. Went through my supplies and found my omnitester....haven't been using it since it only reads to the nearest tenth. It shows .2 ohms. So this tells me there is some kind of issue with my ohm meter and nickel builds. It reads kanthal fine but for some reason it goes crazy with nickel builds. I'm going to email the manufacturer who I ordered it from and see if they have any ideas. All in all the vapor shark and nickel builds are working great for me right now. I absolutely love this device.
Edit: After vaping on this for the past 20 minutes at 17 watts and 420 F, my ohms are holding steady at .15. No changes.
Edit: After vaping on this for the past 20 minutes at 17 watts and 420 F, my ohms are holding steady at .15. No changes.
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