VaporShark rDNA

[guitarofozz]

Got an email response today from VS regarding an order placed on dec 18th.

Hey guitarofozz,
We are still waiting on a shipment of rDNA 40s to come in early January. Right now the best estimation I can give you is that it will ship out probably in late January. I would recommend emailing us a few weeks from now when I can give you a more realistic ship date.
-VS

 

[rodsky77]

That is an istick with a nice carbon fiber wrap.

Looks good enough to be a Solara

 

[flavorpursuit]

So I've noticed a few new things with the rdna over the past few days. I'm currently using twisted 30 gauge for my nickel build on my kayfun. 9/8 wraps around 6-32 screw and I get a reading on the vs of .12 ohms. I've noticed here recently that sometimes when I wake it up, either in the morning or if I haven't been vaping in a while, that the ohms will drop to .11. I'm not sure why this is. I've checked my connections and everything is perfect. And this isn't causing a problem....just a new quirk I've noticed.

I've also noticed some bouncy readings on my odin dripper build as well. Used the same coil as in the kayfun but I will get an initial reading of .14. Last night it "refined" to .13. Then before I headed to bed I checked it again and it had dropped to .12. Wicking could be a factor on this though. My wick isn't as tight as what is running in my kayfun. Who knows. Either way it is still performing excellent. The dripper straight kicks the clouds.

Anyways, just some things I've been observing while using the device the past few days.

Joppa - if you read my comment above, the same thing is happening to me. I am thinking this is due to the way the coil reacts to being fired, the temperature of the room you're keeping it in (I keep my room cool in the evenings), and maybe the amount of juice on the wick (left still, the device will have the most amount of juice soaking the coil). Either way, as you say, it vapes well so vape on

 

[metlgawd]

Dudes...rayon in the lemo on the dna40 is a beast! First time I've gotten a nicotine buzz from 12mg, this thing rocks! XD

 

[flavorpursuit]

Mine never moves more than .01Ω which is still a pretty big percentage. If it's moving .02Ω, you should try to fix it if possible.

KTM - if it's moving in a predictable way (when warm / not warm, more juice / less juice, higher temp / lower temp), are you thinking it would be a problem to continue using the build?

My thinking is that this .0x movement will depend on lots of stuff - how often it's fired, how rapidly, the types of draws you take, your airflow, temps of changing environment, level of wick saturation, etc..etc.. I can see it being a problem if it's bouncing .01 - .03 ohms rapidly (like multiple times within a few minutes). That to me sounds like a bad connection based on my (admittedly limited) experience with my rDNA 40. If it's only jumping .01 - .03 ohms after not being used for 30 minutes, or during a big ol chain vape, that seems logical to me, and the variance of that jump can be attributed to the build or even the atty/MOD 510 connection itself.

Likewise, if resistance changes but fails to return, it is likely that movement at the coil or the legs has triggered the change. Or perhaps something happened at the 510 connection b/w the MOD and the atomizer. And again, if it stays that way, I probably won't be worried about tearing my build out, either, unless other problems follow. Even with my WORST nickel build, I have yet to get any bad flavor. (Vapor production did suck when the connection wasn't good, though. I'll tell ya that. And that was one where the resistance changed frequently, and not predictably. )

As a matter of curiosity, are you torching your builds KTM? I always thought that a blue flame nickel torch might make it less "sensitive" to some of these changes. Don't know if that is at all true, and not going to test it.. I get nervous about torching or dry burning nickel. I have no earthly idea if it's safe or not.

 

[flavorpursuit]

Err - sorry, I accidentally duped a post.

 

[GrizzlyBaer]

Got an email response today from VS regarding an order placed on dec 18th.

Hey guitarofozz,
We are still waiting on a shipment of rDNA 40s to come in early January. Right now the best estimation I can give you is that it will ship out probably in late January. I would recommend emailing us a few weeks from now when I can give you a more realistic ship date.
-VS

That sounds like they will be passing the "...up to 30 days to ship" mark. No telling how many orders are backed up.

My VaporKing's order status just changed to SHIPPED! Hopefully it doesn't get lost in all the holiday mail. As much as I'd like to continue supporting USPS, they've disappointed me more than a time or two on "priority mail".

 

[GrizzlyBaer]

urgh. I just ordered it.

I personally don't care about the larger screen. I just hope I don't have a faulty chip.

IF there is something wrong with it.

do i contact vapor shark themselves or vaporkings?

I just talked to VaporKings on the phone and they assured me that the chips were the updated version, exactly the same except for the screen size. So we shouldn't have any issues with glitching (knock on wood). Fingers crossed x

 

[GrizzlyBaer]

It appears that VaporKings restocked their VaporShark rDNA 40s today. Last night the item was out of stock. Kinda strange but oh well... Here's the link

Vapor Shark DNA40 Mod - Black

 

[DRLyman]

That sounds like they will be passing the "...up to 30 days to ship" mark. No telling how many orders are backed up.

My VaporKing's order status just changed to SHIPPED! Hopefully it doesn't get lost in all the holiday mail. As much as I'd like to continue supporting USPS, they've disappointed me more than a time or two on "priority mail".

I ordered mine with UPS 2nd day air so it will be here tomorrow for sure. 2 weeks ago I ordered something with Priority Mail shipping and it took 9 days from Florida to Illinois. I figure now I'll just pay the extra cost if I want something here quicker and more reliably. Hopefully yours gets to you without any delay. You can see the expected day of delivery on USPS's site. Juice I ordered from Vapor Kings via Priority Mail took 5 days recently.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[DRLyman]

I just talked to VaporKings on the phone and they assured me that the chips were the updated version, exactly the same except for the screen size. So we shouldn't have any issues with glitching (knock on wood). Fingers crossed x

The guy I talked to at Vapor Kings said I can try it out for a few days and see if the screen bothers me (I doubt it will) and send it back if I don't like it for a refund to wait for the one with the bigger screen. Right now, I'm used to a Provari P3 screen so I bet I'll be just fine with the Vapor Shark I am getting.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[cjpeltz]

Dudes...rayon in the lemo on the dna40 is a beast! First time I've gotten a nicotine buzz from 12mg, this thing rocks! XD

I was using only KGD prior to getting my Lemos. Picked up some Rayon with my Lemos and agree completely with you. Wicks very well, great flavor, and not a dry hit yet. And cheap!

 

[DRLyman]

It appears that VaporKings restocked their VaporShark rDNA 40s today. Last night the item was out of stock. Kinda strange but oh well... Here's the link

Vapor Shark DNA40 Mod - Black

I've been watching that. It's the third time that has happened that I've noticed since yesterday. Odd...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[dougward1960]

deleted...

 

[flavorpursuit]

if interested in a new co op for dna 40 boards mike has an interest form sign up started here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1ams...Joa80/viewform

That link didn't get me anywhere. I'd need more info about the co-op to want to sign on though. Maybe start a thread for it?

 

[bwhitt]

My Vapor shark shipped out on Monday from Vapor Kings. They only ship on week days. I should see it Thursday or Friday.

Not sure if mine has zip charging. I prefer to just open the device and replace the battery. This keeps my device operational
All the time. I do not open my hana Modx box as often since it uses screws to hold the battery cover on. Zip charging can’t b
any faster than the max recommended battery charge rate.

 

[Woofer]

KTM - if it's moving in a predictable way (when warm / not warm, more juice / less juice, higher temp / lower temp), are you thinking it would be a problem to continue using the build?

My thinking is that this .0x movement will depend on lots of stuff - how often it's fired, how rapidly, the types of draws you take, your airflow, temps of changing environment, level of wick saturation, etc..etc.. I can see it being a problem if it's bouncing .01 - .03 ohms rapidly (like multiple times within a few minutes). That to me sounds like a bad connection based on my (admittedly limited) experience with my rDNA 40. If it's only jumping .01 - .03 ohms after not being used for 30 minutes, or during a big ol chain vape, that seems logical to me, and the variance of that jump can be attributed to the build or even the atty/MOD 510 connection itself.

Likewise, if resistance changes but fails to return, it is likely that movement at the coil or the legs has triggered the change. Or perhaps something happened at the 510 connection b/w the MOD and the atomizer. And again, if it stays that way, I probably won't be worried about tearing my build out, either, unless other problems follow. Even with my WORST nickel build, I have yet to get any bad flavor. (Vapor production did suck when the connection wasn't good, though. I'll tell ya that. And that was one where the resistance changed frequently, and not predictably. )

As a matter of curiosity, are you torching your builds KTM? I always thought that a blue flame nickel torch might make it less "sensitive" to some of these changes. Don't know if that is at all true, and not going to test it.. I get nervous about torching or dry burning nickel. I have no earthly idea if it's safe or not.

Not KTM (a small mercy) but I'd say if the DNA is staying in Ni/TL mode continue to use your build. If the resistance is jumping around and the DNA is falling back to normal mode then you have an issue with the atty.

We must also consider this. I doubt that 100ths is the full resolution of resistance as the DNA uses it internally. I expect we are seeing a value rounded to fit the display. So for example if x.xx is displayed and x.xxx is used internally a change of 1/1000 of an ohm can display as 1/100th change.
Actual Display(rounded banker style)
--------- --------------
0.166 0.17
0.165 0.16

 

[Woofer]

Woofer - I think something with the K4 is providing that static you talked about. I think it's a great device nonetheless but I have heard a lot of people reporting false readings from their K4. I'm lucky in that mine does not appear to be off by too much. Using the steam engine coil builder maths, I think it's a bit high by about .2 to .4 ohms. I'll admit, I'm not super exact with my inputs and I don't use the advanced mode so I could be wrong, but an 8 wrap in my KFL+ reads .17.

So what you're saying is that the "static" is still ACTUAL resistance, even though in theory there should be less. So unless the resistance is jumping, performance should still be reliable. Hm.. hadn't thought of that. I just thought the static was a -false reading- but if it's stable it does stand to reason that it is the resistance it actually measures.

LOL. Resistance for my KF4 build just dropped from .21 to .20. Seems closer to my original calc but this probably has to do with the "settling" and "movement" of the coils during firing.

The spring in the K4 makes me go hmm, dunno if it's a problem but it looks suspicious. I've had issues with adjustable 510s and positive terminal blocks in Kayfun style attys specifically the R 91%

Yes that is what I'm saying. I'm using static in the sense of this part of the resistance is not increasing in resistance in response to current flow. Within reason it will not effect the performance. I've not seen more then 3/100ths total drift over a few days, I've seen a 3/10 jump boom, the jump is a problem the drift is not. A high percentage of the total resistance much come from the Ni wire, I have no idea what percentage. We do know the DNA expects to see at least 150F temp rise in one second or it defaults to standard operating mode.

Personally I have no problems dry burning Ni200.

 

[KTMRider]

KTM - if it's moving in a predictable way (when warm / not warm, more juice / less juice, higher temp / lower temp), are you thinking it would be a problem to continue using the build?

My thinking is that this .0x movement will depend on lots of stuff - how often it's fired, how rapidly, the types of draws you take, your airflow, temps of changing environment, level of wick saturation, etc..etc.. I can see it being a problem if it's bouncing .01 - .03 ohms rapidly (like multiple times within a few minutes). That to me sounds like a bad connection based on my (admittedly limited) experience with my rDNA 40. If it's only jumping .01 - .03 ohms after not being used for 30 minutes, or during a big ol chain vape, that seems logical to me, and the variance of that jump can be attributed to the build or even the atty/MOD 510 connection itself.

Likewise, if resistance changes but fails to return, it is likely that movement at the coil or the legs has triggered the change. Or perhaps something happened at the 510 connection b/w the MOD and the atomizer. And again, if it stays that way, I probably won't be worried about tearing my build out, either, unless other problems follow. Even with my WORST nickel build, I have yet to get any bad flavor. (Vapor production did suck when the connection wasn't good, though. I'll tell ya that. And that was one where the resistance changed frequently, and not predictably. )

As a matter of curiosity, are you torching your builds KTM? I always thought that a blue flame nickel torch might make it less "sensitive" to some of these changes. Don't know if that is at all true, and not going to test it.. I get nervous about torching or dry burning nickel. I have no earthly idea if it's safe or not.

Not KTM (a small mercy) but I'd say if the DNA is staying in Ni/TL mode continue to use your build. If the resistance is jumping around and the DNA is falling back to normal mode then you have an issue with the atty.

We must also consider this. I doubt that 100ths is the full resolution of resistance as the DNA uses it internally. I expect we are seeing a value rounded to fit the display. So for example if x.xx is displayed and x.xxx is used internally a change of 1/1000 of an ohm can display as 1/100th change.
Actual Display(rounded banker style)
--------- --------------
0.166 0.17
0.165 0.16

You beat me to it. That's why I said more than .01Ω change would lead me to believe a bad connection in the mod or atomizer. It shouldn't fluctuate more than that. When a Ni200 wire is heated, it can go up from .12Ω to .6Ω but it won't show on the DNA screen, just the resistance of the coil when cold. During refinement (up to 1 hr after the fire button is pressed with a coil attached) it monitors the resistance and temp of the coil and the temp of the board and will change the displayed cold resistance. It won't show the actual resistance when the coil heats up.

The best way I've found is with a new coil, vape once and let it sit for about 5 mins (refinement) and do this about 3-4 times. Once the refinement is done, the resistance shouldn't change at all unless you take the atomizer off and use another one. My current build on a KFL+ v2 of 28g, 9 or 10 wraps on 2.8mm ID was at .14Ω and dropped down to .13Ω and hasn't budged from that since (about 4 tanks).

I've been torching and dry burning Ni200 since I got mine. Some others do as well and there's no change in taste of the coil. I don't let it glow red hot for very long. I just heat it until I see it just start to glow and let off the fire button. That's enough to burn off the gunk and clean the coil. I think if you heat it like kanthal, it'll melt and/or distort enough to make the coil useless.

 

[KTMRider]

The spring in the K4 makes me go hmm, dunno if it's a problem but it looks suspicious. I've had issues with adjustable 510s and positive terminal blocks in Kayfun style attys specifically the R 91%

Yes that is what I'm saying. I'm using static in the sense of this part of the resistance is not increasing in resistance in response to current flow. Within reason it will not effect the performance. I've not seen more then 3/100ths total drift over a few days, I've seen a 3/10 jump boom, the jump is a problem the drift is not. A high percentage of the total resistance much come from the Ni wire, I have no idea what percentage. We do know the DNA expects to see at least 150F temp rise in one second or it defaults to standard operating mode.

Personally I have no problems dry burning Ni200.

I've heard (read) that the juice control is meant to be used in only 2 positions, open or closed. When closed, you can refill the tank so it doesn't leak. When it's open, it makes full contact with the center pin to carry current to the coils.