That would put you at about 9 watts, I would start at about 8 watts and slowly go up from there until you find your sweet spot.
VaporShark rDNA
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That would put you at about 9 watts, I would start at about 8 watts and slowly go up from there until you find your sweet spot.
Tried from 25w to 35w, pretty much same results, something felt stressed.
I have never been a dual coil fan except for parallels but wanted to try with Nickel.
how fast do your rdna40's charge when connected to USB? I've charged mine twice and it seems like I have to charge them wayyyy longer than I actually use them overnight. My Solara DNA30 takesan hour or two to go from empty to full, but it may have to be something with it being a LiPo battery? im not exactly sure the difference but I think i might be ordering a nitecore intellicharger and some extra 18650s soon. Maybe I just forget how 18650s work, last 18650 mod i used was over 3 years ago and an old silver bullet.
I might just use my Vaporshark for going out as my portable and vape on my Solara at home, I seem to never have downtime with this LiPo battery the capacity just lasts me the entire day and is such a quick charge. is the old VS dna 30 a LiPo battery life that charges quicker and last longer?
i just chcked the dead battery on my rdna afte ri hooke dit up to my usb port an hour ago... its been reading 0 battery life this entire time but when i took it off it still read 0, when i conect an rda to it and try to fire it up it read 100%... what is up with these dna40 boards?
I might just use my Vaporshark for going out as my portable and vape on my Solara at home, I seem to never have downtime with this LiPo battery the capacity just lasts me the entire day and is such a quick charge. is the old VS dna 30 a LiPo battery life that charges quicker and last longer?
i just chcked the dead battery on my rdna afte ri hooke dit up to my usb port an hour ago... its been reading 0 battery life this entire time but when i took it off it still read 0, when i conect an rda to it and try to fire it up it read 100%... what is up with these dna40 boards?
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Are you still charging via usb on your laptop?
Due to the battery meter showing full for so long I dont really know where it's at when I do plug it in to charge so I can't determine whether it's taking a long time or not.
I believe it won't update on the screen until you fire it. The light by the charging port should come on though. Does is ever turn green?
yeah it just turned green, 2 hour charging time from 0%. and yes im charging it on my computer not laptop, duno if that matters. the charge time seems to be around the same if not a lil bit longer than my solara dna30, but the battery life is definitely much lower compared to the LiPo in the solara.
If your computer has typical 500mah USB ports it should be closer to 4-5 hours to charge for a 2000+mah 18650 battery that's empty. A 1A port can provide double the charge capability when mods support it (new VS does, old VS is capped at 800mah), and cut charge time in half.
Knowing the amount of current available on a USB port is the only way to determine how fast something should charge.
i know I have upgraded usb ports and normal usb ports. I think I have USB 3.0 ports on my motherboard as well as the normal ones, regular silver usb ports, then these special blue usb ports labeled 3.0 which say they are backward compatible to 2.0. The Vaporshark I know i vaped til it wouldnt fire anymore, and somehow it charged in 2ish hours on a silver usb port, (light turned green after 2ish hours), up until then the battery meter read 0% though so it was impossible to tell how far along it was in charging throughout, that battery meter is kind of useless imo, the dna30 battery meter seemed more accurate
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USB ports were never meant to charge devices over 500ma. They changed the specs in '10 or '11 to max out at 1.5a but not all ports are created equally (even 3.0 ports). USB 2.0 vs 3.0 refers to data transmission specs, not power delivery. Use your phone charger instead of a computer (laptop or desktop).
The rDNA40 fire button will change from red to green when it is fully charged. With my non-zip charging rDNA, it takes about 3 hrs to fully charge the LG HE2 (2500mah) battery from dead with a 1.8a blackberry charger.
Don't dismiss the fact that if you have crappy usb cables, a 2a wall adapter won't give you 2a out to the microUSB. Some cables WILL NOT supply more than 500ma regardless of the wall adapter.
The rDNA40 fire button will change from red to green when it is fully charged. With my non-zip charging rDNA, it takes about 3 hrs to fully charge the LG HE2 (2500mah) battery from dead with a 1.8a blackberry charger.
Don't dismiss the fact that if you have crappy usb cables, a 2a wall adapter won't give you 2a out to the microUSB. Some cables WILL NOT supply more than 500ma regardless of the wall adapter.
Very well explained. I'm a little confused why people keep trying to charge their tablets, phones and now mods off their computer USB ports. Wall plug USB adapters are easy to find these days and work much more reliably.
Bits scrambled by Tapatalk...
Convenience.
I went thru this issue years ago with my first big screen smartphone. I ended up buying a few Blackberry chargers that put out 1.8a for under $5 ea. They work great and there is no question whether they will put out more than 500ma to my devices. I also have an app that measures power from a charger and tested some cables and OEM Samsung and LG cables were the only cables I had that put out 2a from a 2a wall adapter. Most cables only put out 1.1a to 1.6a from a 2a wall adapter. You can modify a data USB cable to put out full power but that involves cutting the cable and splicing wires or soldering the USB-A connector (the big one that goes into your computer).
And I don't understand why devices that require more power than a USB port can handle are using USB at all.
But it's not universal. They have different power requirements. There was an older style standard power input that worked jut fine for decades.
Some USB ports can handle it. Most wall adapter types that are not cheap $2 ones supply 1-2A easily for charging USB devices.
Computer USB ports were designed for data transfer and typically don't have that great of charging ability.
Hmmm... I'm not following you -- what route are supposedly passive cables using to limit the current? Or are you saying they're not actually passive cables???
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Because like all things computer (and most all tech, by definition, for that matter), the USB specs are in flux and are continually changing and evolving. They do try and make new devices backwards compatible, which is why a device cable of being charged at 1 amp can still be charged from a half-amp charger, it'll just do it slower. But it won't break anything.
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