VaporShark rDNA

[peraspera]

Have you or anyone tryed a nautilus mini with temperature sencing coils? Are those working ok for a start? I am a little unexperienced at building coils, so I figured I nedd some more practise with kanthal first.

I like to keep up with toppers that might work for newer vapers so I've been playing with a Nautilus (not the mini) for about a week using the Ni200 heads. I can see my rDNA40 only sometimes hit TP after I'm done vaping and flip the device over. Takes about a half second or so.

I've been doing mouth-to-lung hits with the two smaller air flow settings and direct lung hits with the largest setting. I've been using 8–20 watts at 390°–410° with 5–10 second draws. The only time I see meaningful throttling is when I use very gentle draws. Strong draws keep temperatures in a very happy place.

I would recommend the rDNA40/Nautilus with Ni200 coils to newer vapers if budget allows. However, I would very much like to see clearos that produce better flavor. Can't say I'm a fan of the Nautilus flavor compared to my Tilemahos RTAs. I want to see better for vapers just starting out.

Also, I would like TP device prices to be more in line with what the average new vaper's budget allows. Brandon said that Evolv will be making a cheaper 25 watt TP chip so looking forward to seeing pricing on those devices.

 

[zipflint]

I haven't tried the temp protected coils for it yet, but the Kanger SubTank has, in my very humble opinion of course, superior flavor to any of the Aspire products, including the Atlantis and Nautilus. Yes, the draw isn't as dripper-like as an Atlantis, and the full size Subtank IS too wide to use on anything other than a large-ish box mod, but the flavor more than makes up for that.

I haven't tried the Mini or Nano Subtanks yet but since they use the same heads, I'm willing to bet the flavor is just as good on those. I can say, however, that the full sized Subtank is what I recommend to every new vapor, allowing for the size issue. I was totally done with pre-made heads and clearos until I tried the Subtank. I sound like a fanboy, and for that I apologize, but I really DO think these things are killer.

 

[Major911]

I haven't tried the temp protected coils for it yet, but the Kanger SubTank has, in my very humble opinion of course, superior flavor to any of the Aspire products, including the Atlantis and Nautilus. Yes, the draw isn't as dripper-like as an Atlantis, and the full size Subtank IS too wide to use on anything other than a large-ish box mod, but the flavor more than makes up for that.

I haven't tried the Mini or Nano Subtanks yet but since they use the same heads, I'm willing to bet the flavor is just as good on those. I can say, however, that the full sized Subtank is what I recommend to every new vapor, allowing for the size issue. I was totally done with pre-made heads and clearos until I tried the Subtank. I sound like a fanboy, and for that I apologize, but I really DO think these things are killer.

Don't waste your money on the TP stock coils. These OCC heads are a snap to rebuild. Just rebuild one of the stock heads with nickel wire wick and go. Works like a charm.

 

[zipflint]

Oh, I'm going to do exactly that. I was just thinking about it from the perspective of new vapers.

Don't waste your money on the TP stock coils. These OCC heads are a snap to rebuild. Just rebuild one of the stock heads with nickel wire wick and go. Works like a charm.

 

[peraspera]

I haven't tried the temp protected coils for it yet, but the Kanger SubTank has, in my very humble opinion of course, superior flavor to any of the Aspire products, including the Atlantis and Nautilus. Yes, the draw isn't as dripper-like as an Atlantis, and the full size Subtank IS too wide to use on anything other than a large-ish box mod, but the flavor more than makes up for that.

I haven't tried the Mini or Nano Subtanks yet but since they use the same heads, I'm willing to bet the flavor is just as good on those. I can say, however, that the full sized Subtank is what I recommend to every new vapor, allowing for the size issue. I was totally done with pre-made heads and clearos until I tried the Subtank. I sound like a fanboy, and for that I apologize, but I really DO think these things are killer.

I'm waiting until there are Ni200 OCC coils available before trying the Kanger Subtank in my quest for an ideal beginner clearo. To me, the perfect candidate will be one that will provide a very flavorful vape for everything from lower power mouth-to-lung hits up to respectable clouds with higher power using with manufactured coils. If that doesn't exactly satisfy them they will have a very good idea of what gear to purchase next without stumbling around with stuff that doesn't do the trick for their vaping preferences.

The Delta 2 looks like another possibility if Joye ever gets around to making Ni200 heads. Joye doesn't seem to prefer to play outside their own ecosystem so I'm not too optimistic.

I think that TP is a dream come true for newer vapers. Haing a chip that will protect them anything even approaching a nasty dry hit is a huge deal in my view.

I think that a lot more people would be able to switch to vaping successfully if they had starter gear available that would allow them to easily dial in a variety of power settings, air flow and wicking speed while providing outstanding, consistent taste. We aren't there yet but Evolv and the newer generation of clearos has gotten us ever so much closer.

 

[Nodnerb]

So I got my rdna 40 a week or so ago. I keep getting the "is this a new coil" pop up. Sometimes 3 times in a row after filling my tank. Sometimes just after coming home from work and picking it up without removing the atty. today it did it 5 times In a few minutes after getting home from work. I am using a lemo with a .9 ohm kanthal build.
Also, I thought the temperature wouldn't show when using kanthal? Is there somewhere I have to set what coil I am using that I missed? I still have the 450f limit showing even with the kanthal.

Thanks for any help.

 

[ScandaLeX]

So I got my rdna 40 a week or so ago. I keep getting the "is this a new coil" pop up. Sometimes 3 times in a row after filling my tank. Sometimes just after coming home from work and picking it up without removing the atty. today it did it 5 times In a few minutes after getting home from work. I am using a lemo with a .9 ohm kanthal build.
Also, I thought the temperature wouldn't show when using kanthal? Is there somewhere I have to set what coil I am using that I missed? I still have the 450f limit showing even with the kanthal.

Thanks for any help.

While firing using Kanthal the TP will not be displayed. You should only see the F.

 

[Major911]

Oh, I'm going to do exactly that. I was just thinking about it from the perspective of new vapers.

Vaping Shozza on you tube has an excellent video tutorial for rebuilding the Kanger OCC heads. Just substitute i200 wire.

 

[Nodnerb]

While firing using Kanthal the TP will not be displayed. You should only see the F.

Ok yeah. I see that now. I assume with ni200 it measures temp in real time? So there is no kanthal "Mode" I have to set, it detects it itself? Some searching only came up with "kanthal mode" but never went into if it is a selected mode or automatic.

 

[Major911]

I have my large screen with the display flipped though


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

How long have you had the small screen version and have you had any issues with it? I'm really wanting a VS DNA 40 and I found a used one for a good price but it's the small screen version and I'm leary because of the first run problems.

 

[2legsshrt]

After the initial reading, the DNA40 goes into refinement which is why you're seeing .11Ω. Leave it and adjust your wattage to suit your vaping style. There's nothing wrong with your mod.

Well I learned something on a video I watched. I'm not using a dripper but with the Nautilus and TS heads I turn it up to 600 put the watts where I like the vape for me on a .3 head it's 13.5 and I check the temp when I'm using it which is 450. I then set my temp to 450 and vape away. No need to worry about running it dry and burning the cotton since it is a tank. When I tried to set it at 410 I couldn't use over 9w and the vape was terrible. Now it is great. Of course a dripper is a whole diff ball game. 450 would burn the cotton. But with a tank it's no sweat and the flavor is great. I'll be real happy when my subtank minis get here. I sold my Lemos didn't like the intermittent leaking, position of air control, or the filling method. I saw a build with 28awg NI200 8 wraps on a mini I think it came out about .15 and it fits perfectly with the raised screws and the way it traps the wire you can put it in backwards for me meaning you can tighten without pulling the coil and deforming it.

 

[ScandaLeX]

Ok yeah. I see that now. I assume with ni200 it measures temp in real time? So there is no kanthal "Mode" I have to set, it detects it itself? Some searching only came up with "kanthal mode" but never went into if it is a selected mode or automatic.

You can only use TP when using nickel wire (Ni200)- not kanthal.
As far as detection- your VS knows which wire you're using & adjust accordingly (I think this is what you're referring to as kanthal mode) but keep in mind you will not be using the TP with Kanthal.

 

[ScandaLeX]

Well I learned something on a video I watched. I'm not using a dripper but with the Nautilus and TS heads I turn it up to 600 put the watts where I like the vape for me on a .3 head it's 13.5 and I check the temp when I'm using it which is 450. I then set my temp to 450 and vape away. No need to worry about running it dry and burning the cotton since it is a tank. When I tried to set it at 410 I couldn't use over 9w and the vape was terrible. Now it is great. Of course a dripper is a whole diff ball game. 450 would burn the cotton. But with a tank it's no sweat and the flavor is great. I'll be real happy when my subtank minis get here. I sold my Lemos didn't like the intermittent leaking, position of air control, or the filling method. I saw a build with 28awg NI200 8 wraps on a mini I think it came out about .15 and it fits perfectly with the raised screws and the way it traps the wire you can put it in backwards for me meaning you can tighten without pulling the coil and deforming it.

Did you set your TP to 600 just to see what actual TP you were reaching?

 

[TheKiwi]

How long have you had the small screen version and have you had any issues with it? I'm really wanting a VS DNA 40 and I found a used one for a good price but it's the small screen version and I'm leary because of the first run problems.

AH... Mine was the very very first batch that was ever shipped out. It was from the pre-order months ago. It's been absolutely flawless, although there's been reports of glitches from the same batch. That said, the small screens spans across a few board versions :/ sorry I can't be of more help


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[Major911]

AH... Mine was the very very first batch that was ever shipped out. It was from the pre-order months ago. It's been absolutely flawless, although there's been reports of glitches from the same batch. That said, the small screens spans across a few board versions :/ sorry I can't be of more help


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Thanks Kiwi. I'm gonna go ahead and roll the dice. The device looks like it's been used pretty regularly which is not indicative of a buggy board and the price is right. Worse case scenario I wind up sending it in to VS for an overhaul.

 

[freedogg]

My first VS40 was the same initial batch as Kiwi's and it finally started the "glitch syndrome". Very intermittent at first and would go away after a couple fire button pushes. Finally started glitching every 3-4 days so a call to CS and I had a RMA in 5 mins. Hated sending it back but it was getting worse. I have the new larger screen as well and so far all is fine with it.

AH... Mine was the very very first batch that was ever shipped out. It was from the pre-order months ago. It's been absolutely flawless, although there's been reports of glitches from the same batch. That said, the small screens spans across a few board versions :/ sorry I can't be of more help


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Thanks Kiwi. I'm gonna go ahead and roll the dice. The device looks like it's been used pretty regularly which is not indicative of a buggy board and the price is right. Worse case scenario I wind up sending it in to VS for an overhaul.

 

[2legsshrt]

Did you set your TP to 600 just to see what actual TP you were reaching?

Yes then I set it down to that. I've found that I like 12.5w better and 440 is what I get too. Oh and the flavor is excellent with a 50/50 juice.

 

[Kingzkross]

So I just received my Vapor Shark RDNA 40. This thing is tiny compared to my Sigelei 150, and IPV3. Built up my first Nickel dual coil with 30AWG, wicked with Shiseido cotton pads on my Aqua V2. The ohms on the VS read the coil at .11ohms, and my USA ohm meter read .135ohms, so not too far off. Currently vaping at 22.5 watts with TC set at 450.

On another note... Im currently at page 112 of the thread with 40 posts per page, and I'm trying to get updated with all the info. I had one little hiccup with the unit which is kind of upsetting, and hoped all of the bugs would've been worked out by now. Date on the sticker in the battery compartment indicates Jan 19, 2015, new board with C or F temperature option. The screen display was scrolling, and I had to remove and reinsert the battery.

Good thing I carry a backup.

 

[Kingzkross]

Less then 24hrs of ownership and its going back.....

 

[KTMRider]

Clearly more than just a ribbon cable issue.