VaporShark rDNA

[tc1]

Does your resistance change as well when switching from TC to standard as well Alxx?

I'm sure part of my issue is the build. I'm not use to high gauge wire anymore and this 30 gauge is just killn me. lol

 

[puffon]

VS emailed back saying ... As of now Evolv is still working on a fix for this, although every unit we have has the most current board the screen issue is still there. As you said it will not affect the performance of the device whatsoever. But it can be annoying, and we understand.

So basically VS continues to sell units, that will most likely have problems....

 

[AR15Keith]

I tried out the Ni200 heads in my subtank mini today. When I first put it on it read .25 ohms. I vaped it at 29 watts with temp set to 390. It worked pretty good and the temp never hit 300. After an hour or so the resistance read .15. I tried it at the same wattage and I got less vapor and the temp protection was kicking in. I turned down the wattage and it was the same thing. Temp was spiking around 424 or so. Maybe a hotspot in the OCC heads? Oh and FWIW when using in TP the screen glitched more than ever before.

 

[jstrong]

I don't think I wanna RMA my Vaporshark to get another one with the same problem. I wonder if I sell it in the forum would it be a easy sell or a hard sell since I have the receipt and it has a 4 month warranty.

 

[Elyptic]

I notice that with mine set at 420 degrees @ 12 watts and looking in a mirror it sometimes drops down to 8-9 watts. That's either with some older KFL's without adjustable air flow or KFL+'s with wicking issues. If I drain them, play with the wick some, then put it back together I'll end up with a consistent 12 watts.

Except for that damn Lemo which never works right and makes my screen go crazy. I'm leaving it as a back up kanthal tank. I'm not that happy with it to go spending time getting it to work. I like mouth to lung and it's too loose. I have to put tape over 2-3 holes and that's with the air turned all the way down.

Most likely, it's doing what it's supposed to be doing. When you build a fresh coil, you have a really saturated wick. So it can vape at 12 watts workout having to throttle back. If your build isn't wicking as well as it should, it will eventually start to overheat and then throttle back to 8-9 watts to keep the temp consistent.

Wicking is so critical with temp protection mode. I find the same problem with my builds sometimes. If I take a primer hit to wet the wick again, it goes back to normal.

Nickel is truly a different beast and acts differently than kanthal. It's like learning how to build again! Keep trying. Sounds like you're on the right track!


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[tc1]

Have a nice build on my atomic running in temp control mode. Wattage drops off pretty dang quick but it's a pretty satisfying vape.

Seriously though, has anyone got a build on a DNA 40 that DOESN'T throttle within a few seconds? Seems almost impossible on a RDA. Seems to stay at the controlled temperature for a decent amount of time as well, causing temp control to kick in almost instantly. Heck, temp control even flashes after I take a hit. lol

 

[jazzvaper]

Have a nice build on my atomic running in temp control mode. Wattage drops off pretty dang quick but it's a pretty satisfying vape.

Seriously though, has anyone got a build on a DNA 40 that DOESN'T throttle within a few seconds? Seems almost impossible on a RDA. Seems to stay at the controlled temperature for a decent amount of time as well, causing temp control to kick in almost instantly. Heck, temp control even flashes after I take a hit. lol

I am sure I can fire 6-8 seconds w/o hitting TP.

And equally sure there are others who have (here) reported similar durations.

Funny you should mention. I occasionally take a fresh build to the mirror to check. Maybe it's just funny I do that.

 

[neonballoon]

I notice that with mine set at 420 degrees @ 12 watts and looking in a mirror it sometimes drops down to 8-9 watts. That's either with some older KFL's without adjustable air flow or KFL+'s with wicking issues. If I drain them, play with the wick some, then put it back together I'll end up with a consistent 12 watts.

Except for that damn Lemo which never works right and makes my screen go crazy. I'm leaving it as a back up kanthal tank. I'm not that happy with it to go spending time getting it to work. I like mouth to lung and it's too loose. I have to put tape over 2-3 holes and that's with the air turned all the way down.

Since the nickel builds needs a tight connection the Lemo is kinda fiddly because the 510 pin on the bottom cap needs to make a good connection to the air flow 510 pin. I've bookmarked a few pages that makes the connection a bit tighter when I get the Lemo in.

Extending Lemo bottom deck pin to make a better connection to the device 510:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/601945-lemo-rta-build-pics-193.html#post14998088

Flipping the 'disc' on the air flow pin to make a better connection to the deck pin:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/601945-lemo-rta-build-pics-258.html

Connection discussion including flipping the disc on the air flow pin and raising the bottom deck pin:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/601945-lemo-rta-build-pics-204.html

Tightening the pin discussion:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/601945-lemo-rta-build-pics-53.html

 

[Woofer]

Have a nice build on my atomic running in temp control mode. Wattage drops off pretty dang quick but it's a pretty satisfying vape.

Seriously though, has anyone got a build on a DNA 40 that DOESN'T throttle within a few seconds? Seems almost impossible on a RDA. Seems to stay at the controlled temperature for a decent amount of time as well, causing temp control to kick in almost instantly. Heck, temp control even flashes after I take a hit. lol

Yes, with a clean coil and typical wicking I can go on and on chain vaping (a mouth drawn, inhale and nasal exhale while drawing the next mouthful)my r91s
9 wrap 28 awg spaced coil 3mm ID, rayon wick, 420 degrees, 12 watts
I can watch and see 12 watts steady except for the pre heat and never see tp activated.

Magma is the same but it can sink more watts.

Gunked coils hit TL much easier, I assume the gunk has some insulating and isolating action protecting the coil from the cool air and juice.
In that case bump temp 20 degrees and continue vaping till you can clean the coil.

When the TP message is flashed it flashes several times even if you release the fire button, that is normal.

 

[TheKiwi]

Been running my rDNA 40 as my sole APV for 4 days now. So far so good!

Also have been using it without a sharkskin and I must say it's hard going back to using protection


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[Woofer]

Been running my rDNA 40 as my sole APV for 4 days now. So far so good!

Also have been using it without a sharkskin and I must say it's hard going back to using protection


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Been running a rDNA 40 as my sole APV for... hmm since the pre order arrived. No protection.

 

[Elyptic]

Have a nice build on my atomic running in temp control mode. Wattage drops off pretty dang quick but it's a pretty satisfying vape.

Seriously though, has anyone got a build on a DNA 40 that DOESN'T throttle within a few seconds? Seems almost impossible on a RDA. Seems to stay at the controlled temperature for a decent amount of time as well, causing temp control to kick in almost instantly. Heck, temp control even flashes after I take a hit. lol

Both my Lemo and my Erlkönigin run over 20 watts (Lemo over 30 watts) for a 4-6 second draw without hitting temp limit.

On my kayfun lite, I could get a 4-6 second draw at 14-16 watts without hitting temp limit.

In my experience, it's all about the wicking and airflow, with proper wicking being the critical factor.

What are the specs of your build?


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[Alxx Nova]

Does your resistance change as well when switching from TC to standard as well Alxx?


I'm sure part of my issue is the build. I'm not use to high gauge wire anymore and this 30 gauge is just killn me. lol

I just tried a few times on a .12 ohm Ni coil. Turning temp off made the ohms jump higher. Anywhere from .15 to .20 but when unlocking it usually settled in around .13 to .15. I'm guessing that it shows .12 to start because it's remembering the room temp ohms. But when out of TC mode it's showing actual ohms. Just woke up and getting ready for work so I don't have time to test using my ohm meter also. But that's what I'm thinking is the reason for the different ohms.

 

[Alxx Nova]

Wicking is so critical with temp protection mode. I find the same problem with my builds sometimes. If I take a primer hit to wet the wick again, it goes back to normal.

Nickel is truly a different beast and acts differently than kanthal. It's like learning how to build again! Keep trying. Sounds like you're on the right track!


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Thanks Elyptic,
Luckily making the coils, ending up at what I want, and installing them hasn't been a problem. But occasionally I've had to go back in and fine tune the wick. So I definitely agree that wicking is very important with TC. Get it right and the watts stay at what it's set to for the entire time I'm firing it with no temp protection.

TP doesn't bug me if it kicks in. It's a learning period. Most of my KF's (several generic brands) channels are cut different from each other so wicking needs are different. But I'm figuring them out and taking notes so I don't repeat mistakes. Got half of them figured out, should have them all figured out soon enough.

 

[Elyptic]

Thanks Elyptic,
Luckily making the coils, ending up at what I want, and installing them hasn't been a problem. But occasionally I've had to go back in and fine tune the wick. So I definitely agree that wicking is very important with TC. Get it right and the watts stay at what it's set to for the entire time I'm firing it with no temp protection.

TP doesn't bug me if it kicks in. It's a learning period. Most of my KF's (several generic brands) channels are cut different from each other so wicking needs are different. But I'm figuring them out and taking notes so I don't repeat mistakes. Got half of them figured out, should have them all figured out soon enough.

I agree! Each atty seems to have slightly different wicking needs. TP kicking in isn't bad either, but it does mean that something isn't quite right. I've finally gotten things mostly sorted out, but it did take some trial and error

Taking notes is a good idea. I always say I'm going to start a juice journal as well, but alas...


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[Alxx Nova]

I was building coils on a 3mm rod. I've switched to a 2.5 and I'm having better results. Maybe it's because it's closer to the 2mm I used to use for kanthal so I'm more familiar with how to wick that.

But I was wondering if (I'm using all KFL's) the larger coil is causing airflow issues. Not very much room in a KFL chimney. Maybe the extra coil size and wick is clogging things up some.

Any one with some thoughts on this?

 

[Elyptic]

I was building coils on a 3mm rod. I've switched to a 2.5 and I'm having better results. Maybe it's because it's closer to the 2mm I used to use for kanthal so I'm more familiar with how to wick that.

But I was wondering if (I'm using all KFL's) the larger coil is causing airflow issues. Not very much room in a KFL chimney. Maybe the extra coil size and wick is clogging things up some.

Any one with some thoughts on this?

Given the size of the juice wells on a Kayfun Lite, I'm thinking that you're probably better off using a 2.5mm coil. My issue with larger coils in the small KFL chimney was twofold. The first, as you point out, was reduced airflow. The second was that if I got enough wick in a 3mm coil, it would clog up the juice wells. Just too much cotton. I suppose it would be possible to thin out the wicking in the wells, but overall, I found that a slightly smaller coil just worked better. I actually was wrapping nickel coils for my KFL around a #6-32 machine screw. Found that to be a pretty good size. Either 28 gauge or 30 gauge worked well, though if you can wick it without destroying it, the 30 gauge seemed a better fit as it needed less wraps which matched the smaller diameter chimney of the KFL better.

Good luck!

 

[vernSL]

Just finally got my return label for mine. Hopefully this new batch is fixed, but I'm guessing I'll have to send it back at least one more time. But right now mine is unusable. So even if I get one with just screen issues, at least I'll be able to use it while I wait for fixed batches.

 

[qorax]

Tell me about it

Was about to start rebuilding it.

 

[Alxx Nova]

Given the size of the juice wells on a Kayfun Lite, I'm thinking that you're probably better off using a 2.5mm coil. My issue with larger coils in the small KFL chimney was twofold. The first, as you point out, was reduced airflow. The second was that if I got enough wick in a 3mm coil, it would clog up the juice wells. Just too much cotton. I suppose it would be possible to thin out the wicking in the wells, but overall, I found that a slightly smaller coil just worked better. I actually was wrapping nickel coils for my KFL around a #6-32 machine screw. Found that to be a pretty good size. Either 28 gauge or 30 gauge worked well, though if you can wick it without destroying it, the 30 gauge seemed a better fit as it needed less wraps which matched the smaller diameter chimney of the KFL better.

Good luck!

I was using mostly 30g since 28g was coming out too long. I didn't like the space the wick had between the coil and the chimney wall. Seemed like too tight of a bend.

Then I got one of those new style coil winding tools and I'm back to using 28 gauge. After making a coil I lightly run a flat screw driver tip over the coil several times. Top, bottom, & sides. It adds a little gap between the coils. Or I'll give it a light pull to space the coils out. They come out smaller and tighter then I normally can wrap.