Has anyone had their Vaporshark stop firing for a split second mid-vape with temp control turned off (with kanthal)? My button flashes. I look down at the screen after and my battery is fine, no warnings, etc.
VaporShark rDNA
- Thread starter ClintS
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I finally found a use for the "atty lock". When charging, my rDNA gets warm. I am assuming that any refinement while the mod is warm, but the coil is not, could cause an inaccurate setting to be created. So, lock the atty while charging, and then unlock after a few vapes.
Magma's will snip you Ni wires very easily. Even if it doesn't completely cut them the legs will have a tendency to loosen up. I would suggest putting a piece of kanthal (same diameter) through the hole with the leg of your nickel coil. Also try as best you can to be sure the wires are centered under the screw and not off to the side.
Get a few strands from silicone wire. You need wire that has very thin strands that are almost like hair. Unscrew the 510 pin and lay the strands inside along the threads. Screw the 510 pin over the stands. You'll almost have to force it in. This will create the best contact without the need of cleaning the e juice off every hour for proper ni200 use.
Just got my rdna 40 in and it has the ohm lock feature. But does this mean the power lock feature is removed? I just cannot how to figure out how to put this thing in to power lock mode
I just found out there is nothing to do with my screw and coil.... everytime it doesn't work (very little vapor production), I took the atty off and put it on again, then the rDNA40 asks me if it's a new coil, i press yes(+), then it works perfectly fine...so annoying...sigh....
Almost sounds like the refinement issue some people experience (never experienced it myself).
I would contact VaporShark and see what they say. They might replace it with the latest firmware which has a lock option to combat this issue.
I would contact VaporShark and see what they say. They might replace it with the latest firmware which has a lock option to combat this issue.
That means your initial coil reading was inaccurate or you have a bad connection somewhere. Find that bad connection and you found your problem.
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Haha that's the one feature I have absolutely no interest in.
Pretty much the only functions I actually use is changing wattage, locking device and changing temperature
The carbon coating though, that I do want >
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Then you must not have one of the newer firmware/boards. I had a first run board and I have 1 board here that was built in late November, and it works great. Perfect, actually . I had a slghtly later one (just before the "big screen" versions came out, and it worked perfectly. Have 2 of the next to latest that came in the new VS DNA40, and the "refinement" has made the TC functionality completely unusable for me on those devices. The battery meter thing seems worse as well. Oh, and running in "Kanthal mode" is even more fun, as the delay when firing until coil is heated is actually quite noticible now, which it isn't on the earlier builds.
And before someone says its a bad atty connection, a bad atty connection would make the resistance go UP not DOWN. For example, I build coil to 0.14 ohms on reader. It detects as 0.14 on the VS as well as another older DNA40 box. After it goes through refinement, it's sitting at 0.12 ohm. Flip it to disable TC mode and it reads 0.14 again. Throw it on ohm meter and its 0.14, throw it on another DNa40 box, it detects as 0.14... Let it sit and wake up that box and its 0.14. Put it back on the new VS DNA40, and it detects as 0.14... Let it sit for a while and now it's seeing it as 0.12 again. So don't tell me bad atty or coil build. The firmware is just not right!
So I contacted VS about an update, and for the first time, I've had a bad CS experience. Apparently, they will only upgrade a board/firmware if you are getting the screen glitch AND you take a pic of it happening with something identifying yourself as well as the time and date it's happening. Oh, but he did point me to the RDNA update f on 30 to 49 board page (which is odd since I have a DNA40 not RDNA), and said that would be my option to get my units fixed... At $99/unit.
So, within the last 20 days, they gladly took over $300 of my money, delivered a product that didn't perform as it should, teased us with a fix, and then offered to take another $200 of my money to make the units I already paid $300 for actually work.
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Haha I have no idea. Placed the order last Saturday and will have to wait and see how it is. My small screen from the very first batch, and large screen from the first large screen batch has been flawless. Hopefully the new one will be too. Meh
Also why didcha pay 300..?! :O
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2 units at $159 each = $320
AH... Gotcha. That's gotta be hard to stomach. :/
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My 4th Vaporshark is on it's way back to me. According to Mike this one will have the newest chip from Evolv that is glitch free. Not holding my breath because I have already had 3 bad units. I guess time will tell or I may just say heck with it and put it up for sale
I'm thinking I'll finally go ahead and send my rDNA back now. I'm having faith that Evolv has fixed the issue. Though I'd have preferred to have kept the wattage lock instead of locking the ohms.
Oh and for anyone interested. I've had my DNA 40 *mini* shark for 3 weeks now and she's glitch free.
Oh and for anyone interested. I've had my DNA 40 *mini* shark for 3 weeks now and she's glitch free.
I just built 2 DNA40 mods with their latest boards (1 large screen and 1 small screen) and they're both glitch free. I tested both at 40w but I didn't vape for an hr this time so I didn't need to lay down .
My 4 month old rDNA 40 has been flawless. I did notice the finish on the fire button is wearing off now but the rubberized finish is good. There's a tiny chip from the battery door but no other marks.
. My 4 month old rDNA 40 has been flawless. I did notice the finish on the fire button is wearing off now but the rubberized finish is good. There's a tiny chip from the battery door but no other marks.
Haha I ordered my third one a couple of days ago with the hydro-something coating. Fingers crossed!
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Mine also lost black coating and became silver, but the center part of the button scraped off deeper and exposed what I think looks like copper.
Mods: VS rDNA 40 / Cloupor Mini
Attys: PhenomenoN Zest / Lemo Drop / Lemo
Mods: VS rDNA 40 / Cloupor Mini
Attys: PhenomenoN Zest / Lemo Drop / Lemo
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