VaporShark rDNA

[RandyF]

Alright guys, here are a couple of questions for ya...

I've read through about 3/4 of this thread so far and I've seen a lot of posters complain about hitting the temp protection limit during their vape. I was under the impression that when temp protection activates, it's simply the dna 40 doing what it's supposed to do. When using a TC device like the Vaporshark, is it our goal to avoid hitting the temp protection limit, or is hitting that limit simply standard operating procedure for a device like this?

Secondly, does the active throttling back of wattage when you've hit the temp protection limit negatively affect your vaping experience in any way?

Hitting TP quickly means you have a problem and the vape suffers. Even hitting it towards the end of your drag means you should make some tweaks, but the vape might be acceptable. Ideally you should not be hitting TP at all, which will give you the best vape, but using a tank system that can be a challenge, in RDA's....not nearly as difficult depending on the RDA.

Temperature limiting is designed to protect you by keeping your coil below a specific temp in the event your wick runs dry. If TP is being reached then your power is being dialed back, so there is no way you will be getting the best possible vape. If it happens right away, the vape is weak. If it happens towards the end, you may not notice as much. Getting the best out of Ni coils requires you to get the proper balance of airflow, wicking and power, assuming the coil itself is solid.

I can vape my Holmes RDA at 40 watts, using a .13Ω coil, with the temp set to 450, taking 5 to 7 second draws and never hit TP, until I need to drip. If I had a .13Ω coil in any RTA and tried 40 watts, the results would vary greatly depending on the tank, but nearly all would not work as well. Wicking and airflow play a large role in keeping the coil under your set temp.

With the rise of the sub-ohm RTA it is getting better, but as you will learn, Ni coils are temperamental and often need babying, which can be a bit of a pain in an RTA.

My suggestion, get a good 2 post RDA with good airflow (the Magma is not ideal) and it will shorten the learning curve.

 

[caferacer]

Hitting TP quickly means you have a problem and the vape suffers. Even hitting it towards the end of your drag means you should make some tweaks, but the vape might be acceptable. Ideally you should not be hitting TP at all, which will give you the best vape, but using a tank system that can be a challenge, in RDA's....not nearly as difficult depending on the RDA.

Temperature limiting is designed to protect you by keeping your coil below a specific temp in the event your wick runs dry. If TP is being reached then your power is being dialed back, so there is no way you will be getting the best possible vape. If it happens right away, the vape is weak. If it happens towards the end, you may not notice as much. Getting the best out of Ni coils requires you to get the proper balance of airflow, wicking and power, assuming the coil itself is solid.

I can vape my Holmes RDA at 40 watts, using a .13Ω coil, with the temp set to 450, taking 5 to 7 second draws and never hit TP, until I need to drip. If I had a .13Ω coil in any RTA and tried 40 watts, the results would vary greatly depending on the tank, but nearly all would not work as well. Wicking and airflow play a large role in keeping the coil under your set temp.

With the rise of the sub-ohm RTA it is getting better, but as you will learn, Ni coils are temperamental and often need babying, which can be a bit of a pain in an RTA.

My suggestion, get a good 2 post RDA with good airflow (the Magma is not ideal) and it will shorten the learning curve.

Thanks, this is really helpful.

 

[NOVA jon]

Randy, that is a quick, accurate TP explanation. Well said. I would only add to those just getting started with TP devices that it is imparitive to make sure all and I mean ALL of your connections must be checked to make sure they are solid!!

It really is a nice clean satisfying vape when all of these things are accomplished!!

 

[Bman1959]

Just wanted to pass on my thanks. First to this thread and all who have posted. Followed from the beginning and lately, not so much.
Second to Vapor Shark and their great customer service. Had to return my rDNA (glitchy screen), sent them some crappy screen shots from my flip phone, they emailed a RMA shipping label and a week later, back to vaping away.
Ahhhhh! Life is good!

 

[Shigura]

Just wanted to pass on my thanks. First to this thread and all who have posted. Followed from the beginning and lately, not so much.
Second to Vapor Shark and their great customer service. Had to return my rDNA (glitchy screen), sent them some crappy screen shots from my flip phone, they emailed a RMA shipping label and a week later, back to vaping away.
Ahhhhh! Life is good!

Sent mine off to the mothership friday and I'm missing it fiercely

 

[Bman1959]

Feel your pain. On the bright side, had to dust off the Provari as a back up and found it does quite well with a sub-tank mini on it.

 

[KTMRider]

That's why you need a backup DNA40 device. I have 6

 

[Shigura]

That's why you need a backup DNA40 device. I have 6

May not have that many backups of a DNA40, but my HB40 is getting lots of love

 

[Bman1959]

That's why you need a backup DNA40 device. I have 6

One for each hand, a back up for each hand, One for the car , with a back up too ?
The money saved from not smoking keeps getting absorb for other projects, so I make do with the provari, istick, rdna and 2 mechs.

 

[qorax]

 

[KTMRider]

One for each hand, a back up for each hand, One for the car , with a back up too ?
The money saved from not smoking keeps getting absorb for other projects, so I make do with the provari, istick, rdna and 2 mechs.

Close

I bought a rDNA40 and loved the chipset and TP. I bought 4 DNA40's from the co-op to build my own since all the ones on the market were not that great. I built 3 in 2 Cloupor boxes and a Hana mini clone box. Then I saw the DNA40 from VS. I tried to resist. Really, I did. It was as close to perfect for me as I could find. Then the Hana V4 large screen with tool-free battery compartment came along at a great price so I couldn't resist.

I'm vaping on the Hana v4 now but only because I haven't used it in a few days but I've been reaching for the DNA40 and rDNA40 the most. The rDNA40 fits in my hand the best but can be a bit bulky when carrying around so the DNA40 fits that role perfectly.

rDNA40, DNA30, DNA40

 

[RandyF]

I know this isn't the place to ask, but I can't see starting a thread on the subject and I know some of you guru's in this thread use them.

I want to pick up an ultrasonic cleaner, any recommendations, or will any basic unit work in this application? Also, is it a good idea to add cleaners to the water, if so what is good to use?

 

[KTMRider]

I know this isn't the place to ask, but I can't see starting a thread on the subject and I know some of you guru's in this thread use them.

I want to pick up an ultrasonic cleaner, any recommendations, or will any basic unit work in this application? Also, is it a good idea to add cleaners to the water, if so what is good to use?

I picked up a cheap one off eBay a few years ago (7 yrs?). I haven't used it for any vaping gear but for general stuff, I usually use a few drops of simple green and a drop or two of water wetter or a few drops of dishwashing liquid (Dawn), then rinse with warm water.

 

[RandyF]

I picked up a cheap one off eBay a few years ago (7 yrs?). I haven't used it for any vaping gear but for general stuff, I usually use a few drops of simple green and a drop or two of water wetter or a few drops of dishwashing liquid (Dawn), then rinse with warm water.

So just a basic unit designed for jewelry cleaning would be good then?

And why when talking about cleaning vape gear it always seems like Dawn is the recommended detergent, does it differ from others, or is it just a name recognition thing? I have never really needed detergents because I have always cleaned my equipment with Everclear and a toothbrush, but that can take it's toll on the insulators and such, and it is difficult to get into the crevices.

Thanks for the info.

 

[KTMRider]

So just a basic unit designed for jewelry cleaning would be good then?

And why when talking about cleaning vape gear it always seems like Dawn is the recommended detergent, does it differ from others, or is it just a name recognition thing? I have never really needed detergents because I have always cleaned my equipment with Everclear and a toothbrush, but that can take it's toll on the insulators and such, and it is difficult to get into the crevices.

Thanks for the info.

Yep, pretty much any ultrasonic cleaner for jewelry will work fine. This looks like the same as I have but w/o the logo:
DB Tech Digital Ultrasonic Cleaner Cleans Jewelry Eyeglasses Dentures | eBay

The original Dawn liquid is a great degreaser (no harmful additives or "anti-bacterial" stuff). I buy it by the gallon for dishwashing, washing car parts (sometimes the car if I run out of car washing liquid), bathing my dog, etc. Between Dawn and Windex, I don't buy a lot of other cleaners. You can google uses of Dawn and Windex and you'll be amazed what they can do. Everclear doesn't cut thru grease/oils as well as dishwashing liquid.

Wacky Uses: Dawn® Dishwashing Liquid
21 Unusual Uses for Windex, And a Few Fun Extras…

 

[KTMRider]

I should also mention that Water Wetter is a surfactant that can break liquid surface tension to get into small cracks and crevices of things you want to clean.

 

[Kent C]

And why when talking about cleaning vape gear it always seems like Dawn is the recommended detergent, does it differ from others, or is it just a name recognition thing?

I don't use it but - most likely from stuff like this:

Why Dawn Is The Bird Cleanser Of Choice For Oil Spills : NPR

One of the 'secrets' is that is has petroleum in it!! But just like I mentioned in another thread, sometimes you use the offending substance to clean it off - eg. using bubble gum to remove bubble gum :- )

 

[Bman1959]

Hey KTMRider, that is a very nice collection, thanks for sharing.
I'm another big Dawn user. Use for shampoo, car washing, dishes etc. Only use it on new tanks, otherwise cheap vodka.

 

[KTMRider]

I rarely wash my atomizers other than when new. I usually just rinse everything with water and that gets rid of the juice. I've posted many, many, many times to just wash new atomizers with dish washing liquid and hot tap water. There's really no need to use an ultrasonic cleaner, alcohol, etc.

 

[alistairs]

So my faithful rDNA30 finally stopped working yesterday. Fire button stuck on. The button feels like its still clicking but the blue ring stays lit and its trying to continuously fire. Hoping its something easy to fix so decided to ship it back to VS to try out their Diagnostic service.

I was a bit upset at first - I also have 2 rDNA40s, and don't want their buttons crapping out in another few months. But then again I have been using this one daily since September, and one of the reasons I like Sharks is because of the availability of repair services, so we'll see what they make of it.