VERSION 2.5 Vision ViVi Nova Is IN STOCK Now, VIVI NOVA Review Thread

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cerver7

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May be the problem is in the resistance of the heads. On my ProVari the 2.8 ohm head was 3.2 and dropped to 3.0. My 2.4 ohm head was 3.4 ohm at first and has settled down to 3.0 ohm. On a small battery I'm sure this would need a nice long slow pull to get any real production. I have no clue why the ratings are so far off, but they are. May be this is the problem you are having?

This could be it. The 1.8 is hitting like a 2.4. But I don't have a multi so I can't test :(
 

rdsok

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This could be it. The 1.8 is hitting like a 2.4. But I don't have a multi so I can't test :(

The majority of reports have said they tend to start off high and then drop down to around the rated resistance... that would only explain them vaping weak and not the taste bad portion of the post

Adding a Kick to the SB would do wonders in the area of vaporizer resistance variations you may see on any vaporizer... definately a must have in my book ( probably along with the extention so you can still use the bigger 18650 and not drop to a 18490/18500 size ). I can care less on my Kicked Legacy which head I grab, they all give almost the same vape no matter what resistance they are at.
 

rdsok

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My heads test very high. I just tested my 2.4 after about 3 tanks and it is reading 3.2. My 1.8ohm is testing at 3.9 after 1 tank

Remember to also subtract out your multimeter's lead's resistance, just short the leads directly together to see what that reading is and subtract it from the total you get on the head. If not using a multimeter, nevermind.. I don't know of a good way of taking into consideration the possible resistance in the connector threading etc that these may add
 

rdsok

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my 2.4 is still reading in the 3s after 5 tanks according to my provari

And you've cleaned the connections ( 510 threads ) recently within a week or so? The dirtier the threads, the less accurate the test is. I just know I seldom see this important step mentioned in any thread and I think it should be brought up from time to time for people that aren't aware of the issue.
 

Debadoo

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And you've cleaned the connections ( 510 threads ) recently within a week or so? The dirtier the threads, the less accurate the test is. I just know I seldom see this important step mentioned in any thread and I think it should be brought up from time to time for people that aren't aware of the issue.

Is this just a matter of wiping them off with a wet wipe or something, and then doing the same for the battery part? I've done that quite a bit and usually in the batt part, (riva for now) get a tiny bit of black gunk on the wet wipe. Or is there more to this?
 

kwalka

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My heads are reading all over the place. However the ones I build are staying put within a few tenths, once they oxidize a bit. I read yesterday that the r and nr wires are connected by a heat treatment not solder. I have silver nr wire and all diff gauges of Kanthal. Eventually I'm going to hit the wires w the soldering irom with no solder and see if I can recreate this "heat treatment".
Up to this point the heads I build I am using Kanthal only and I am not tasting rubber. I also have not had a head I built stop working yet, or get to the point that I need to rebuild the rebuild. (good one) Once I open up one of the heads that I rebuilt I will report what I find.
 

REET_AZ

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I am so sorry you are having issues with your tank.

I have Version 1, and it is working just great. The flavor/vapor did improve for me when I trimmed the wicks to where they are just touching the tank sides. In fact, if V2.5 is as good as people are reporting, Ill be thrilled. I havent needed to reorder any coils yet. I will when the new mini 2.0 tank comes in. I think the 2 mini tank is going to be the shiznitz for use on an ego twist for out and about. And I would like the smaller look on the Provari.

I hope you find a way to make it work for you. Its quite good when you get it going!
 

kwalka

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Krystm

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Just checking in but so far everything has been pretty awesome so far . I did bore out the one head to 3/32 and rebuilt it hits aren't as tight but not a dry hit yet. Probably get at least 1 more for my daily since I like lots of flavors. Breaking in seems to be about 3/4 - a full tank then it really performs.

Running both heads at 2.9-3 ohm 5volt with 70/30 mix.
 

ckone180

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Yeah, the resistance issues are not that big of a problem if you are using VV, but an unregulated 3.7v may have strange production. Regarding the resistance check, I too use a ProVari, and its been pretty accurate otherwise. If I use a multimeter it would be a Fluke, and I use it a lot. If you leads have any resistance when checking lead to lead, then I don't know that I would trust any readings it provides.
That said, I simply adjust voltage to where I like it, but 3.4 ohms at 3.7v is very weak to me.
 

Mare1077

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I got my vivi-nova last week and I find that I am sticking to one juice at a time, because nothing else I have compares to it! I am using the 2.4ohm head. I have no way of testing the actual ohms but it really doesn't matter to me since my juice tastes amazing and I am getting the perfect amount of throat hit (I like a medium to light throat hit). No dry hits even when I vape it practically empty! I really need to get a couple more, but I am kind of waiting for the minis to come out.
 

harmonic

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you can get a digital meter from harbor freight fro like ten bucks also other places like wallmart and radioshack have usable ones also but prolly for a few dollars more.
when i was in highschool i had a good digital vm that had a zero button to zero out the ohm and get a good reading. none of the digital meters i have looked at under like 30 bucks have this function so you MUST touch the probes together first and give yourself a zero point. the one i currently use adds 0.3 ohms to every reading.
all of my heads were off on the resistance too so i would bet that most likely the problem...
 

rdsok

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I just think this nova is not right. And from y'all having a 2.4 that reads in the three's, I am starting to think they all are meh.

If you actually take the time to read the posts from the users using the v2.5 ( there are a lot of v1 posts in this thread as well )... you'd see that most are getting close to the advertised resistance after they settle in... Just basing a judgment off of a few selected reports instead of the larger group won't give you a good overview and leads to an inaccurate assessment as you've now made.

I've read the whole thread from the start as it has been posted ( easier than trying to catch up to nearly 2000 posts )... The v1 heads were for the most part very poorly assembled and as a result had a lot of crappy reports and terrible flavor if any existed... The v2.5 heads have been just the opposite.

My heads are reading all over the place. However the ones I build are staying put within a few tenths, once they oxidize a bit. I read yesterday that the r and nr wires are connected by a heat treatment not solder. I have silver nr wire and all diff gauges of Kanthal. Eventually I'm going to hit the wires w the soldering irom with no solder and see if I can recreate this "heat treatment".
Up to this point the heads I build I am using Kanthal only and I am not tasting rubber. I also have not had a head I built stop working yet, or get to the point that I need to rebuild the rebuild. (good one) Once I open up one of the heads that I rebuilt I will report what I find.

I suspect that a soldering iron is no where close to the heat level needed for this "heat treatment"... which I suspect is either actually welding or something close to it. I suspect to address this you'll need an iron that you can silver solder with as well as some food safe silver solder.

An innovative work-around that I read in the post you linked to... mentioned just doubling up the wire by twisting it together on the leg portion... While not as efficient as using NR wire.. it is simple.
 
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