another idea you could maybe twist in a small piece of nr wire as the double in the leg instead of doubling the resistance wire. don't know if this has been tried....
If you actually take the time to read the posts from the users using the v2.5 ( there are a lot of v1 posts in this thread as well )... you'd see that most are getting close to the advertised resistance after they settle in... Just basing a judgment off of a few selected reports instead of the larger group won't give you a good overview and leads to an inaccurate assessment as you've now made.
I've read the whole thread from the start as it has been posted ( easier than trying to catch up to nearly 2000 posts )... The v1 heads were for the most part very poorly assembled and as a result had a lot of crappy reports and terrible flavor if any existed... The v2.5 heads have been just the opposite.
I suspect that a soldering iron is no where close to the heat level needed for this "heat treatment"... which I suspect is either actually welding or something close to it. I suspect to address this you'll need an iron that you can silver solder with as well as some food safe silver solder.
An innovative work-around that I read in the post you linked to... mentioned just doubling up the wire by twisting it together on the leg portion... While not as efficient as using NR wire.. it is simple.
another idea you could maybe twist in a small piece of nr wire as the double in the leg instead of doubling the resistance wire. don't know if this has been tried....
another idea you could maybe twist in a small piece of nr wire as the double in the leg instead of doubling the resistance wire. don't know if this has been tried....
I suspect that a soldering iron is no where close to the heat level needed for this "heat treatment"... which I suspect is either actually welding or something close to it. I suspect to address this you'll need an iron that you can silver solder with as well as some food safe silver solder.
errol that is correct, they spot weld all vision products.
Does that remove the current from the portion of the Kanthal where it is?
really i think it should. electricity follows the path of least resistance. if you twist in nr wire for the legs the nr wire should take the current up to where it stops at which point the kanthal takes over and gets hot. the kanthal twisted with the nr wire shouldnt heat up as the current takes the lesser path of the nr wire. if the legs are added first you could wind the coil so that ALL the exposed kanthal is contained in the coil and the twisted nr legs start as soon as the wire comes off the wick so that the only wire that can get hot is wrapped in the coil.
hope that helps somebody lol
So why aren't we building Ody that way? Just to save on wire?
Hey, guys, have mercy on this old non-fiddler, and post the reference for how to rebuild these coils... I have wick and wire and stuff, and I am curious to the point of my tail lashing furiously. I know it's been posted at least a couple of times, but I can't seem to find it.
Plus, it would be cool to stick it into the knowledge base, if Bad and Danno don't object.
I'll put it into my "PV techy folder", I promise, so that I don't have to ask again.![]()
Does anyone know when the Vivi Nova will be back in stock? I dropped my PV today and broke my Nova.
What part broke?
Does anyone know when the Vivi Nova will be back in stock? I dropped my PV today and broke my Nova.
Here you go!!!
Vision Vivi Nova, Part 2 - Changing Wick (COTTON) & Final Impressions - YouTube
Only thing I suggest is double the wire up on the "legs" as they lead to the coil and come off the coil to the contacts. The parts of the wire that are not wrapped around the wick.