VV Berserker Mini MTL RTA:Very low Ohm display

[KurtVD]

Hi,
So I just bought the Vandyvape Berserker, with a pack of 30Ga 0.5 Ohm coils. They installed one of these coils in the shop to show me how it’s done, and I’ve rewicked it twice since then (1 week). When I rewicked it yesterday (the second time), the coil came loose at one end, so I tightened it down and it seems ok. However when I look at the display of my istick Pico 75 W, it shows a resistance of only 0.19 Ohm. Unfortunately I haven’t paid attention to it before. Does that mean I have to change the coil? And if I install a new one, will it show something very close to 0.5, or does that depend on my installation and wicking skills? As a general rule, is it this value where I can check the state of my coil?
Thanks

 

[KurtVD]

I’m adding this, hoping it will attract some attention and an answer. Today I noticed that the resistance value had changed, without me changing anything at all. Yesterday it read 0.19Ohm, today it was at 0.22 for a while, until it was at 0.29 a few hours later. I hadn’t even vaped a lot, I was asleep most of the time. What does it mean, that this value has changed?

 

[stols001]

What is your coil material? Some resistance fluctuations are normal,, some aren't. Some wire will change resistance after it anneals (like SS) but typically the fluctuations are sort of UP, I think. It may be down, I stand ready to be corrected.

It's very hard to say what is going on given you didn't check your resistance at FIRST, some coils just aren't super accurate to begin with, and also, different mods will "read" ohms differently, for example I have a mod that consistently reads coils HIGH. It's consistent so I don't worry about it.

Depending on what you did when you screwed down the coil again, it is POSSIBLE that you made a significant change to the resistance, although HOW MUCH and WHY would be questions to investigate.

If you have another mod to check it on, I would do that. If you don't you can get an ohms reader, but they (unless you buy a very expensive one) are going to be equally sort of "within the range of reading a coil" as really most mods that are out there. Your most precise option would be a DNA mod, but they are pricy.

More information would help and I would be inclined to tell you to start over with a new coil to be on the safe side. If it's VAPING fine, and whatnot, you MAY be okay but like I said, hard to say with any certainty. Install a new coil (it's good practice anyway, IMHO) and maybe look into an ohm's reader (I find them useful but admittedly more as a cheap, stable and leak proof-- mine seems to be, I've leaked all over that thing and would rather do THAT than one of my expensive mods-- option to check coils. With a regulated mod, precision is less important than say a mechanical mod, but with that said, ALSO regulated mods with protections can fail. Go here if you need more help with building and installing:
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forums/rebuildable-atomizer-systems.751/

Pose the question there and I'm sure you'll get more help. However, for the price of ONE coil, I would honestly say, START over. Care in wicking should be exercised just generally, so that you can like, keep a coil going for longer.

But for now I'd say start over (given the information I have and etc.) Pay attention to your initial resistance and BE SURE to know what coil material you are using, and etc.

 

[VictorC]

30 GA and 0.5 ohm, is it tiny SS coil?

 

[lil_buddy]

make sure the gold pin on the bottom of the tank isn't loose (tighten with screwdriver)

make sure the pin in the mod isn't obstructed (ie isn't getting hung up in the rubber gasket.)

 

[Izan]

I’m adding this, hoping it will attract some attention and an answer. Today I noticed that the resistance value had changed, without me changing anything at all. Yesterday it read 0.19Ohm, today it was at 0.22 for a while, until it was at 0.29 a few hours later. I hadn’t even vaped a lot, I was asleep most of the time. What does it mean, that this value has changed?

K,
R and R
Remove and replace. Pull the problem coil and swap in another from the pack.
These are the pre-built Hive coils you are using, correct?
How many strands of 30AWG are twisted in the coil? 2 or 3 is pretty typical.

Pro tip: as you have seen, the post screws can and will loosen over time and usage. I tend to tighten my post screws again after the first 15-20 ML and a I will "snug" them up when it is time for a re-wick/dryburn.

Does the coil read normally (.5Ω) with only the deck attached to the mod? You may be shorting your coil on the bell/chimney when it is fully assembled.

HTH
I

 

[KurtVD]

Thanks a lot, I've finally changed the coil and the wick, and now it shows 0.55. I have two Picos, and they both show the same. When I took the coil out of the box, both leads pointed in the same direction, but the mounting points are on opposite sides of the coil, so I had to decide in which direction to bend, it would give either one more round (spool?) of coil, or one less. I thought more is probably better, so I bent it that way. My thinking was, that I would get more vapour, is that right?
Either way, after I found a video on youtube where I could see how to insert the wick properly, and it is a revelation! The guy in the shop obviously didn't know anything about this particular model, but if you know how, it is really easy, there are two deep enough chambers where you have to put the two ends of the wick, it was a breeze. Now the airflow is almost as good as with the Melo 3. But it's not just about the airflow, the whole experience is completely different, no spitting, no hot vapour at 36 Watts, and a very easy draw. It still leaks a bit, though. Much less if I keep on drawing for a second after I release the button, but sometimes I don't do that, and then it can leak through the airflow hole.
So now, instead of buying prebuilt coils, I could buy wire, and roll my own coils, is that what a lot of you are doing?

 

[lil_buddy]

So now, instead of buying prebuilt coils, I could buy wire, and roll my own coils, is that what a lot of you are doing?

yes.

 

[stols001]

I do both but yes.

Anna

 

[KurtVD]

Well, now that I’ve ‘unleashed’ the potential of this atomizer, I’m 100% sold, the flavor is so much more intense, and I just don’t like the kind of vaping that DLT is anymore, in comparison - matter of taste.
I have already retired the Melo 3 atomizer, now I’m looking for a fitting RDA atomizer for my Pico, to see what that’s all about

 

[JCinFLA]

I see that you're yet another person who has tried and really likes the Berserker. I still can't get over how great the flavor is and how absolutely smooth the vapor is from it, compared to other RTAs I've used. Have you used it enough to notice how little eliquid it uses, too?

So now, instead of buying prebuilt coils, I could buy wire, and roll my own coils, is that what a lot of you are doing?

I have the materials and can make my own coils. But...as cheap as the pre-wound SS and Kanthal coils are from FT ($3.40-$5.00 per 100)...I've been using the pre-wound ones exclusively for about a year now.

Well, now that I’ve ‘unleashed’ the potential of this atomizer, I’m 100% sold, the flavor is so much more intense, and I just don’t like the kind of vaping that DLT is anymore, in comparison - matter of taste.
I have already retired the Melo 3 atomizer, now I’m looking for a fitting RDA atomizer for my Pico, to see what that’s all about

Since you like the Berserker RTA so well, you may want to try 1 of the fairly new Berserker RDAs. FastTech has the authentic ones of them, too, and if you use the code MAP in your shopping cart, at the bottom...it'll show you the discounted price.

 

[KurtVD]

I see that you're yet another person who has tried and really likes the Berserker. I still can't get over how great the flavor is and how absolutely smooth the vapor is from it, compared to other RTAs I've used. Have you used it enough to notice how little eliquid it uses, too?



I have the materials and can make my own coils. But...as cheap as the pre-wound SS and Kanthal coils are from FT ($3.40-$5.00 per 100)...I've been using the pre-wound ones exclusively for about a year now.



Since you like the Berserker RTA so well, you may want to try 1 of the fairly new Berserker RDAs. FastTech has the authentic ones of them, too, and if you use the code MAP in your shopping cart, at the bottom...it'll show you the discounted price.

It’s my first RTA, so I can’t compare, but I certainly wouldn’t complain that I have to fill it up all the time, even though I use the metallic tank. It’s kind of stupid to have a tank where you can’t see how much fluid you have left, but it just looks the part

Unfortunately mine still leaks a little, but maybe that’s my wicking.

I’ve bought a Geekvape Ammit RDA because that’s what they had in my local vape shop, but I’m really happy with it. I wrote about it in the dedicated Geekvape Ammit thread.

 

[JCinFLA]

It’s kind of stupid to have a tank where you can’t see how much fluid you have left, but it just looks the part

That's 1 reason why I haven't used the metal tube on my Berserker Minis yet. I really like the Ultem one the best, even on my 24mm Berserkers, too.

Unfortunately mine still leaks a little, but maybe that’s my wicking.

It probably is a wicking problem. There needs to be enough to fill the coil, so that there are no gaps between the coil wire and your wicking inside it, once it gets eliquid on it. You'll know you have enough in it, when you hold each tail and try gently pulling the wick side to side...and it just barely starts to make the whole coil move. IMO, getting the wicking right is the thing that takes a little practice when using an RBA off any type. I'm sure you'll get it right though.

 

[lil_buddy]

I got a mini off the classifieds and it is not machined right. The top lid tears up the oring on the chimney and the air flow ring is really hard to turn. It is retired and the peek insulator piece is now in one of my 24mm Berserkers - 'cause I washed one down the drain

 

[KurtVD]

You'll know you have enough in it, when you hold each tail and try gently pulling the wick side to side...and it just barely starts to make the whole coil move

I was rather thinking about getting it wrong with the tails, but this is very interesting: I thought that it was important to squeeze a lot of wick into the coil, that’s why I hate wicking, I’ve always found it hard pushing the wick through the coil without altering the coil arrangement. But thinking about it, the guy who showed me that did a terrible job with the tails... So it is ok if there isn’t too much wick in there?

 

[JCinFLA]

I’ve always found it hard pushing the wick through the coil without altering the coil arrangement. But thinking about it, the guy who showed me that did a terrible job with the tails... So it is ok if there isn’t too much wick in there?

As far as "pushing the wick through the coil" - If you'll twist each end of the wicking material pretty tight (in opposite directions), and then gently pull it through the coil as you keep the twist tight...it should go through. If you see it's distorting the coil, try twisting it tighter. If it's still too thick, remove it and take just a very small amount off of it, lengthwise. Then retwist it and try it again. Once it's through, make sure to untwist the fibers, as you don't want the fibers twisted as the tails go down into the juice wells on each side.

About the tails going into the Berserker juice wells - First, hopefully you've watched some YT on how to thin the tails on your wicks. That does need to be done before trimming them and putting them into the juice wells. When you've trimmed them, you want the ends of the tails to just barely touch the bottom of the juice wells. If you get them too long and/or stuff them in there...it'll clog the eliquid hole in the bottom of the wells and you won't get good juice flow.

By the way...are you using cotton or rayon for wicking material in the Berserker Mini?

 

[KurtVD]

I got a mini off the classifieds and it is not machined right. The top lid tears up the oring on the chimney and the air flow ring is really hard to turn. It is retired and the peek insulator piece is now in one of my 24mm Berserkers - 'cause I washed one down the drain

That’s a pity, especially since it’s one of the things I love about it, how well it is made. The two reviews I’ve read/seen were also impressed by exactly that... You wouldn’t live somewhere in Europe? I’ve broken my glass tube, I would buy yours if that’s a possibility and not too complicated.

 

[KurtVD]

As far as "pushing the wick through the coil" - If you'll twist each end of the wicking material pretty tight (in opposite directions), and then gently pull it through the coil as you keep the twist tight...it should go through. If you see it's distorting the coil, try twisting it tighter. If it's still too thick, remove it and take just a very small amount off of it, lengthwise. Then retwist it and try it again. Once it's through, make sure to untwist the fibers, as you don't want the fibers twisted as the tails go down into the juice wells on each side.

About the tails going into the Berserker juice wells - First, hopefully you've watched some YT on how to thin the tails on your wicks. That does need to be done before trimming them and putting them into the juice wells. When you've trimmed them, you want the ends of the tails to just barely touch the bottom of the juice wells. If you get them too long and/or stuff them in there...it'll clog the eliquid hole in the bottom of the wells and you won't get good juice flow.

By the way...are you using cotton or rayon for wicking material in the Berserker Mini?

I’m using cotton, but only because that’s what they had in the local vape shop. Is that good?
I’ll do it exactly the way you described next time, and see what happens. I know that last time, I practically filled the juice wells with the tails, so there’s an obvious mistake.
Even like that, if I keep drawing for a second after releasing the button, it doesn’t really leak. I wonder if they couldn’t engineer an air intake upstairs, like on my Geekvape Ammit? Then there would be no way possible way of leaking...

 

[lil_buddy]

That’s a pity, especially since it’s one of the things I love about it, how well it is made. The two reviews I’ve read/seen were also impressed by exactly that... You wouldn’t live somewhere in Europe? I’ve broken my glass tube, I would buy yours if that’s a possibility and not too complicated.

I am not in Europe. Fasttech has them though I am pretty sure.

 

[JCinFLA]

I’m using cotton, but only because that’s what they had in the local vape shop. Is that good?

Cotton is fine...lots of people use it. I used it all the time until I tried rayon for wicking. Now I don't use the KohGenDo Japanese Organic Cotton at all, that I'd bought multiple packs of, with 10 pads in each. If you ever decide to try rayon, make sure it's made of 100% rayon fibers, because they make some that is a cotton/rayon blend, too. You don't want that though.

I’ll do it exactly the way you described next time, and see what happens. I know that last time, I practically filled the juice wells with the tails, so there’s an obvious mistake.
Even like that, if I keep drawing for a second after releasing the button, it doesn’t really leak.

Even though cotton shrinks when it gets wet, you still don't want the juice wells stuffed full...so it blocks the hole in the wells even when it's wet. But you do need enough in there to draw the eliquid up, to keep the cotton in the coil wet. Your leaking is probably caused by not having enough cotton actually inside the coil...so when it does get wet and shrinks a little...it'll still be touching the inside of the coil loops. You'll get it just right with some more practice, I'm sure.