whats so great about provari?

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SPACKlick

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here's my opinion on the 33.3 chip. it works great on thicker wire, but sucks on thin wire. thicker wire takes longer to heat up and cool down, smoothing out the pulses. thin wire cools quickly between pulses. That's why some people can tell its there and some can't. It has nothing to do with a "refined palate", just different atomizers.

While this is theoretically true, I still doubt it's enough to show up in a blind test. at 33.3Hz, the coil has 0.03seconds of heat and cool. coils fire at 50 - 100 degrees celsius in ambient conditions (20C) [122 - 244 F, (68F)], except they're actually surrounded by a liquid that get's warmed (while firing they're surrounded by near vaporised PG) I would anticipate significantly less than 1 degree of fluctuation over the second. However I don't have the data to calculate it. Someone with an accurate thermal probe might be able to hook one directly to a coil and see what temperature fluctuation you can see but I imagine it to be unreadable.
 

EddardinWinter

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I think you are on to something. Voltage Lag is a PITA. The VV3 is a great little stick....but.....it lags horribly as it discharges.

Yeah, that makes sense. I bet the full battery power output is spot on. My eVic was great at full power putting out any set voltage which was < the battery voltage. When the battery got to say 3.7 V, the evic was unable to put out a power much higher than the battery, so asking for 4.2 volts was an exercise in futility...The Vamo behaved similarly, but with lower accuracy at full voltage.

It may be the same in the VV3. This might explain the "taste difference" quite well.

I can get a 6 V signal up until the last puff on my ProVari (provided the ohms and power range permits it). It is the only mod I have ever used that did so in an acceptable manner to me.
 

inanitydefined

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While this is theoretically true, I still doubt it's enough to show up in a blind test. at 33.3Hz, the coil has 0.03seconds of heat and cool. Coils fire at 50 - 100 degrees celsius in ambient conditions (20C) [122 - 244 F, (68F)], except they're actually surrounded by a liquid that get's warmed (while firing they're surrounded by near vaporised PG) I would anticipate significantly less than 1 degree of fluctuation over the second. However I don't have the data to calculate it. Someone with an accurate thermal probe might be able to hook one directly to a coil and see what temperature fluctuation you can see but I imagine it to be unreadable.

oh I would love to see a double blind test. But that is in fact the reason you hear it, and the reason a coil on a 33.3 spits different than a coil on a mech
 

EddardinWinter

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The Black and Red hybrid Provari awaits me at the post office!

Can I put a kick in it or would that be overkill?

Don't do that. It requires no kick, and I don't think the ProVari would like it since it is designed for an input power between 4.2 and 3.2 Volts... Are you going for the VW or something?
 

Glenn_K

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When I upgraded my setup from a Vamo to a mech mod, I could definitely taste the difference in vape quality -- expectation had nothing to do with it. I actually learned about the Vamo PWM implementation afterwards.

I still use my Vamo even though I now have a ProVari, so it's not a deal-breaker of a difference to me, but it is there.

With the ProVari, I swear I can also see a difference in terms of how brightly and steadily a coil glows during a dry burn, compared to my Vamo (with voltages being equal, of course).

-- Glenn


in the audiophile world they use a term called expectation bias. it means you think something is a certain way and your mind bends reality to make it so.

here's my opinion on the 33.3 chip. it works great on thicker wire, but sucks on thin wire. thicker wire takes longer to heat up and cool down, smoothing out the pulses. thin wire cools quickly between pulses. That's why some people can tell its there and some can't. It has nothing to do with a "refined palate", just different atomizers.
 

Baditude

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To those who argue that people can not tell the difference between 33.3 Hz and filtered 800+ Hz, some people can tell the difference. Just because YOU can't doesn't mean others can't.

My first regulated mod was a Provari. I used and took it everywhere, but after a few months I went searching for an inexpensive regulated mod that would be more pocket-friendly than the regular size Provari when out and about.

First I got a Smoktech VV Gripper. Pocket-friendly design, but the build quality was cheap and it had the 33.3 chip which I noticed immediately. As others have said, I had to turn the Gripper down at least 2 - 3 volts to get the same voltage perception as I would have with the Provari. Seven weeks after using the Gripper the LED display and front buttons collapsed into the mod body. A learning curve of Chinese quality begins to take effect.

Next I got a Segelei/Ovale V8, another regulated box mod. Better quality of parts (except for a funky battery compartment), but again the same 33.3 Hz chip which I had to remember to adjust to get a decent vape compared to my Provari. It seemed I was grabbing for the Provari more and more when leaving the house because I knew I would get a better vape from it over the Segelei. Experiment fail, its now relegated to backup status in a drawer.

For my 1 year vape anniversary, I spent the bucks on a Mini Provari. This is what I should have done before buying the two above box mods, but I didn't know any better at the time. For the price that I ended up paying for the two less expensive mods I could have had the Mini Provari to begin with.

I recently won a Mini ZMax from IBTanked from a contest. I tried using it exclusively for a whole week, and although I enjoyed the form factor comparable to my Mini Provari, it couldn't compare to the Provari's or MVP in vape quality. I ended up paying it forward to my daughter who was using some small mechanical mods exclusively, so for her it was an upgrade.

As stated, I have an MVP myself. The vape is as pleasant as the Provari's as they share similar Hz PWM and filtering. I have noticed some slight voltage drop as the battery drains (yellow light territory), so it's regulation is not as strong as the Provari's. I don't really mind the box mod form factor, but I do find I prefer using the Provari's because of the tube mod form factor. They just feel better in my hand and of course this is a personal preference. Again, given a choice I almost always grab a Provari over the MVP.
 
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p.opus

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While this is theoretically true, I still doubt it's enough to show up in a blind test. at 33.3Hz, the coil has 0.03seconds of heat and cool. Coils fire at 50 - 100 degrees celsius in ambient conditions (20C) [122 - 244 F, (68F)], except they're actually surrounded by a liquid that get's warmed (while firing they're surrounded by near vaporised PG) I would anticipate significantly less than 1 degree of fluctuation over the second. However I don't have the data to calculate it. Someone with an accurate thermal probe might be able to hook one directly to a coil and see what temperature fluctuation you can see but I imagine it to be unreadable.

That's why I believe that expectation bias is a much more plausible explanation. In my humble opinion the whole flat signal vs 33.3 hz signal is the weakest of the arguments for a ProVari. Yes, you can see it on a scope. Yes, you can sometimes hear it... But other than that, I think its a bit of a white wash.

Voltage Lag, on the other hand, is real. The fact that pbusardo hit his voltage right up until the unit died, was a HUGE factor in my decision.

I went from VV3's to MVP2 to avoid the inevitable lag I would get near the end of the day.

I rarely run an MVP2 low enough to notice voltage lag, but it is there. With the built in USB charger, there's little need. But I did notice when the device was running in the "yellow" before I looked at it, the few times I discharged it rather deep.

The ProVari on the other hand, has taken me by surprise on more than one occasion. Happy...happy....vape.....NOTHING> AW....SNAP!!

There's something to be said about keeping that LED on....
 

EddardinWinter

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Yea, i heard VW was a lot better, so with the kick i will have best of both worlds, and it might increase it faster than 800 hertz.

I would not do this under any circumstances without the blessings of the folks at ProVape, so ask them if you are determined to try it.

It sounds like a very bad idea. Try it with just an AW IMR and see how you like it before you pursue this.
 

EddardinWinter

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That's why I believe that expectation bias is a much more plausible explanation. In my humble opinion the whole flat signal vs 33.3 hz signal is the weakest of the arguments for a ProVari. Yes, you can see it on a scope. Yes, you can sometimes hear it... But other than that, I think its a bit of a white wash.

Voltage Lag, on the other hand, is real. The fact that pbusardo hit his voltage right up until the unit died, was a HUGE factor in my decision.

I went from VV3's to MVP2 to avoid the inevitable lag I would get near the end of the day.

I rarely run an MVP2 low enough to notice voltage lag, but it is there. With the built in USB charger, there's little need. But I did notice when the device was running in the "yellow" before I looked at it, the few times I discharged it rather deep.

The ProVari on the other hand, has taken me by surprise on more than one occasion. Happy...happy....vape.....NOTHING> AW....SNAP!!

There's something to be said about keeping that LED on....

This is why I keep it on. There is no way to know what your battery power is without checking it repeatedly if you disable the LED. It will temporarily stop the blinking if you unscrew the cap and put it back on, because it is no longer under load for that moment.
 

SPACKlick

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Voltage Lag, on the other hand, is real. The fact that pbusardo hit his voltage right up until the unit died, was a HUGE factor in my decision.
Comparing the MVP to the Provari in that regard is a little apples to Oranges. I'd love to see output voltage graphs for several regulated mods. Provari vs VTR vs i34 vs Lavatube or something like that, to see how much output voltage changes over a battery's drain
 

Baditude

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The Black and Red hybrid Provari awaits me at the post office!

Can I put a kick in it or would that be overkill?

No, don't even attempt this. The Kick is to be used to achieve voltage regulation in a mechanical mod. With a Provari you already will have the best voltage regulation available.
 

p.opus

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I've been told it will not work. Pbusardo mentioned it would not work in a ProVari.

You risk damaging the ProVari because with the kick, you are regulating the output voltage BEFORE it hits the Voltage Regulation circuitry of the ProVari. Also the KICK won't be able to read the resistance of your coil because it does not have a direct path to your 510 connection.
 

Baditude

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If Pbusardo said it, then I will save the kick for the mechanical mods.
He should know. He uses a Provari and usually has it with him at vape meets. For someone who has unlimited access to his choice of mods, this says a lot to me.

PBusardo and miniProvari.jpg
 
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EddardinWinter

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I would be able to tell the difference between a vape on a mech mod and the VTR that I have. The mech mod is smoother. Not saying it's better, just that there is a difference.

That is quite possible. The mech is delivering a pure DC signal. Taste is so subjective, we are probably all "right", even if for the "wrong" reasons.
 
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