What's the (continuing) attraction of mechanical mods?

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WattWick

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Mechs can be small and durable - and give you what you want (or more) at the press of a button.

There is this misconception that mechs are unsafe and regulated mods are safe, regardless - and requires no knowledge to use safely. Stick a battery of the exploding volatile variety in regulated mod and stress it too hard - it will still go haywire. An ICR battery with a 2-4 amp limit does not care if it's in a mechanical mod or a regulated one if you try to pull a few dozen watts out of it.

Battery safety is first and foremost about which battery you use - secondly about how you use it. The sum of it is that you have to use the right battery the right way.

If you vape safely - and get your desired vape at the press of a button... does it really matter how the electrons got to the coil?
 

TheBloke

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Mechs can be small and durable - and give you what you want (or more) at the press of a button.

There is this misconception that mechs are unsafe and regulated mods are safe, regardless - and requires no knowledge to use safely. Stick a battery of the exploding volatile variety in regulated mod and stress it too hard - it will still go haywire. An ICR battery with a 2-4 amp limit does not care if it's in a mechanical mod or a regulated one if you try to pull a few dozen watts out of it.

Battery safety is first and foremost about which battery you use - secondly about how you use it. The sum of it is that you have to use the right battery the right way.

If you vape safely - and get your desired vape at the press of a button... does it really matter how the electrons got to the coil?

All very good points, of course.

But as more and more of the regulated mods have built-in batteries (and frankly, I prefer the ones that do - less cost, less hassle), picking the wrong battery is just not an issue.

As for regulated being safer in general - I was really talking about things like reverse battery protection, and more importantly, short protection.

Example: I've had a couple of shorted coils on my iStick 50W. My own fault. I have been rebuilding coil heads for tanks, in particular the heads that come with the Smok VCT and GCT tanks, which are nice for rebuilding because it's fairly easy and they have 2 x 3mm juice intakes (great for wicking and re-wicking.)

But I got too fancy - I was trying to put in twisted wire builds, and although I was very careful, the coils were just a little too large to reliably sit inside the head, and twice I had the coil move as I was re-wicking it, ending up touching coil head metal without me realising.

Or to be precise, it's happened far more than that, but most of the time I noticed the dramatic drop in ohms and didn't fire it. Twice, I did not notice and fired it.

On my regulated mod, the result was that it said "Protection" and stopped firing. And one of the times it also shut down on me, appearing to be dead, which would have worried me greatly if I hadn't already seen pbusardo's review where he had the same thing, and reported that it reboots as soon as you plug in a USB cable (so it's kind of a safety shutdown.)

But in neither case was any damage done (well, not to the mod - the rubber gromit on the coil got slightly burnt during the <0.1 second it was firing.)

With a mech mod, I'd at the very least have killed the battery I think? Actually I don't know for sure what would happen on a mech mod? But I'm pretty sure it'd be bad!

Of course, one should work to the specs of the tools one has - if I had a mech mod, I would not have dreamed of attempting potentially risky, tight-fitting coil head rebuilds. I'd build in a much larger margin of safety in all building.

But still, that regulated protection seems to me to count for quite a bit. And shorts can happen for many reasons. In this case it was my own doing, but there's any number of conceivable scenarios where a short could occur without the user knowing or causing it.

So I do maintain that regulated provides a significant level of protection that's very worthwhile - though of course I realise even regulated mods can be pushed too far and can fail. I no longer attempt those larger coil head rebuilds at all.
 
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440BB

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The smooth vape consistently provided by a high quality regulated device is very satisfying. The tactile pleasure, durability and variety provided by mechanical devices is also very enjoyable. I like both and expect to continue to vape them regularly.

I think many people get turned off by an initial purchase of a poor quality device, whether it be regulated or mechanical. If they are inconsistent or require a lot of fiddling, it's often assumed that most similar devices are just as bad.
 

QU1T

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ps.

Mechs look badboy, eye candy at its best IMO!
Personally I hardly ever go above 15w anyway, Kayfuns/Russians and the odd Orchid blast.

I proudly own a few original mechs (a few clones also) and a few regulated boxes which I only use for travelling,
Mechs on the desktop lined up looking at me or aluminium/plastic looking at me, I choose mechs.

Lastly, Kato's Hammer with some fine juice, by the pool or BBQ, makes me feel like a god, I won't get that ever with a box mod,
All totally subjective and off my nelly ofc...but still luvin it.
 
End of the day, mechs are just plain pretty!

M9BIK49.jpg
 

TheBloke

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I do so like how the non mech users decided to crash the thread and turn it into a mech vs regulated battle. While not actually addind anything related to the question poised by the OP.

And specifically what I asked not to happen :) To be fair I think it's mostly been civil, though - perhaps one exchange not included.

I have another question, which merges both regulated and mech!

This morning I got my second regulated mod, the Smok XPro M80 Plus (the latest updated version, slightly improved from earlier less-than-great iterations.)

This is a 6-80W regulated, containing 2 x 18650 batteries. Unlike other regulated mods with internal batteries, this actually has two of those batteries in it - but locked in, not meant to be user replaceable. So it's kind of a hybrid between mods that have internal and mods that have 18650s.

This mod features a "mech mode". And that's what my question is about: what's the point of it?

In normal wattage mode, I can go from 6-80W. In mech mode, I can't change the wattage obviously, and when I hit fire, it shows me the current battery voltage and the current watts. With my batteries about 80% charged, that's currently showing around 3.67V, firing into 0.3 - 0.4 ohm coil (it's Ni200 so it changes very rapidly), giving 35 - 50W depending on the exact resistance.

Now the listed minimum resistance of this device is 0.2 ohm. And I assume the maximum charge of the batteries will be 4.2V - although from the graphs I've seen, I think you only get 4.2V for a very brief time, and then most 18650s drop to 4V very quickly?

Anyway assuming it can do 4.2V into 0.2 ohm, that will max out at 88W. And I have to hope/assume that this has at least 25A batteries in it, because that's a 21A power draw.

So.. the point of this "mech mode" is to get 88W instead of 80W, 10% more, for a brief period until the batteries sag? Then when it hits 4V, it'll be 80W, same as regulated!

Am I missing anything or is this feature a gimmick? :) Other regulated mods I've seen that have mech mode were more like 50-60W in regulated, and could then do at least 20W more in mech mode.

Unless my calculations are off somewhere, the mech mode in this mod seems pretty pointless! Not that I mind much, I didn't even realise it had mech mode when I ordered it, but it's good to know how things work (or don't!)
 
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Agreed! Is that a derringer on those? I just got one this morning (clone..) - not tried it yet but looking forward to it from all I've seen on YT.

Yup, derringers...I love these little attys I have copper, stainless and brass...they are solid, running dual coils .16ohm in one, .09 or so in the others...I do however recommend some POM drip tips as the metal ones get pretty hot since they are so short and at super low builds they heat up FAST!!!
 

TheBloke

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Yup, derringers...I love these little attys I have copper, stainless and brass...they are solid, running dual coils .16ohm in one, .09 or so in the others...I do however recommend some POM drip tips as the metal ones get pretty hot since they are so short and at super low builds they heat up FAST!!!

Wow, 0.09! That certainly gives me a good example of why people like mech mods.

I can't think of a single regulated that can do below .1 - certainly none of the three I have (or am waiting for) can. My iStick 50W is 0.3, my Smok M80 is 0.2, and the Vapor Flask DNA 40 clone I think is 0.16, maybe 0.1 in temp control mode (I think it matches the genuine in that regard.)

Re the drip tips, POM is Delrin isn't it? Hope so, because I happened to order my first three Delrin tips at the same time as the Derringer (though from a different place, and they weren't delivered today.)

Is this the sort of thing you mean?

Short Stubby True Wide Bore 510 Delrin Drip Tip
Stepped White Delrin 510 Drip Tip

The first of those, the "short stubby" might be too short to help much with reducing temperature, even though it's delrin, so I probably won't use that on the Derringer and/or at very low ohms. But the second one should be good for Derringer at low ohms, I hope?
 
Wow, 0.09! That certainly gives me a good example of why people like mech mods.

I can't think of a single regulated that can do below .1 - certainly none of the three I have (or am waiting for) can. My iStick 50W is 0.3, my Smok M80 is 0.2, and the Vapor Flask DNA 40 clone I think is 0.16, maybe 0.1 in temp control mode (I think it matches the genuine in that regard.)

Re the drip tips, POM is Delrin isn't it? Hope so, because I happened to order my first three Delrin tips at the same time as the Derringer (though from a different place, and they weren't delivered today.)

Is this the sort of thing you mean?

Short Stubby True Wide Bore 510 Delrin Drip Tip
Stepped White Delrin 510 Drip Tip

The first of those, the "short stubby" might be too short to help much with reducing temperature, even though it's delrin, so I probably won't use that on the Derringer and/or at very low ohms. But the second one should be good for Derringer at low ohms, I hope?

yes, delrin, POM whatever we wanna call it, the short stubby wide bore helps, I also got some wide bore longer ones. also the ones I have are stackable so I can use a short stubby as an insulator between the atty and metal tip like so

8cC6tFh.jpg
 

tj99959

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    Yup, derringers...I love these little attys I have copper, stainless and brass...they are solid, running dual coils .16ohm in one, .09 or so in the others...I do however recommend some POM drip tips as the metal ones get pretty hot since they are so short and at super low builds they heat up FAST!!!

    I'd like to know just how you go about measuring .16 ohms or .09 ohms! Being as an inexpensive Micro ohm meter costs about $3,500. Hell, just a set of replacement leads for my Micro meter costs about $1,000!
     
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