The low wattage crowd doesn't come out much. They usually hide in the sub forums cause they get tired of arguing with the megawatt crowd.
But don't doubt it. There here.
But don't doubt it. There here.
When I'm out and about I love my little iStick.
But at home mechs are the only way to go.
Sitting here right now surrounded but a brazillion dollars worth of gear vaping on a 15 dollar FT Nemy with a nautilus and some bathtub juice thinking life doesn't get any better.
After I'm sure they are working perfect I give them to smokers. Maybe they get used, maybe they don't. But its easier to say press here and vape then adjust the VV to 7.1 and lock this or you'll get a 30 watt death hit and do this and do that. If it takes more then 8 seconds to learn to drive a Nemy I'm prolly wasting my time.
As roxynoodle has already mentioned, with a mech one needs to understand ohms law and battery safety. Each battery has a C rating. Within this C rating the Maximum Continuous Discharge rate can be determined in amperes. One must not exceed the MCD rate of the battery being used and preferably stay 15-20% below it.
So, let's take, for instance, a Sony VTC5. This battery has a MCD rate of 30 amps. Personally, I wouldn't build anything lower that 0.16Ω as this is pulling 26.25 amps. I currently like my Hobo built at 0.24Ω. That is pulling 17.5A. Similar to pushing 73.5w on a regulated device.
If this doesn't make any sense to you, then you have studying to do before purchasing a mechanical mod.
The low wattage crowd doesn't come out much. They usually hide in the sub forums cause they get tired of arguing with the megawatt crowd.
But don't doubt it. There here.
The low wattage crowd doesn't come out much. They usually hide in the sub forums cause they get tired of arguing with the megawatt crowd.
But don't doubt it. There here.
Beep beep beep
Back up a second. Be real careful getting batteries on eBay. Over here our eBay is littered with fakes.
To the best of my knowledge there is still a supply issue for AUTHENTIC VTC 5's and even if there weren't, you probably shouldn't buy them from eBay as they are likely to be fakes if the price seems too good to be true!! Buy from trusted supplier's as recommended here:
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You are referring to that place based in Wembley Park aren'tcha..I followed that story and funny you mentioned them because I just checked their site as a reference to vtc5 availability and they are sold out on the vtc 4's to boot!!!!
I have several vtc 4's and honestly don't really rate them that highly at the price as compared to say Samsung 25R's with 2500 mah. They are cheaper from the USA than in the UK though. The vtc 4's are IMO like 3rd best choice. Check out some threads on battery performance if interested.![]()
Of course, I may be totally stupid to be sticking to VF USA's required list of batteries when I'm buying a Chinese clone anyway 
Ah OK, interesting. The reason I was sticking with VTC is because the Vapor Flask requires VTC 3, 4, 5 or the LG ones (according to Richard Ng on YT, other batteries won't even fit.) And because I'd heard so much about VTCs and little about LG, I just went with them.
I have a VF 40 clone and use PVTSO batteries no problem.
PVTSO Elite IMR 18650, 2100mAh Battery, Flat Top
No! Don't do it! Lol. Tethers aren't all they're cracked up to be. Turns out, me coming from the reverse direction, only popping batteries in and out is better. Of course only IMO.Not going to lie. In 2.5 years of vaping I've acquired a couple dozen IMR's of all sizes and have some timeless mechs (Caravela's and Mark Bugs wizards). Those IMR's prevented me from ever trying sub-ohming and now that regulated mods (I do like my Provari) are proliferating I can't wait for these batteries to wear out. I hate waste, so I'll keep using them until then. But I really can't wait to get something like a 50w Istick. 4400mah and pass through USB charging is like a dream to a battery changer like me. As much as I like my mechs, there is so much more you can do with a regulated mod.
Great, thanks for confirming! Do you recall which exact clone you have? To our knowledge, there are two main types - the Kangxin and the Waidea/Sunlay.
The Kangxin was the first, and it says something like "KX-DNA40" when you start it up.
The Waidea by contrast says just "DNA 40".
I ask because I ordered the latter, and the latter is known to have some slight manufacturing differences to the first Kangxin's.
I have the infinite clone. No temp control. 40w. Board says evolv dna40 when it starts up. Batteries have plenty of room to go in and out.