Hmm... any idea where I can find some kind of chart or something, for converting metric measurements to sterling?
Andria
Inches to Millimeters - in to mm conversion
Hmm... any idea where I can find some kind of chart or something, for converting metric measurements to sterling?
Andria
Hi again
Sure! Although I think it isn't fair. Rebuilding kanger heads is super easy. As long as you have 3mm silica wick and the dual coil heads, you can rebuild one in less than 5 minutes. If you have those new "upgraded" ones, it will take a couple of minutes more because you will need to remove that damm sleeve and "convert" it to the old style.
There are only 3 tricks:
1. In the end, regardless of making a single or dual coil head, you have to have 3 stacked 3mm wicks in the groove to ensure no flooding and no dry hits.
2. always use the wick itself as wrapping guide to get a tight contact between the coil and the wick. The kanger tanks are bottom feeders so too much flow is more of an issue than lack of flow.
3. when cutting the excess legs off, make dam sure there isn't any izzy tiny piece sticking out of the plus pole because as you tight down the tank on the mod, the pin will rotate and short out the coil (or coils) if there is any piece of wire sticking out.
The rest is a no-brainer... for a single coil setup, wrap the coil around two 3mm silica strings (bottom 2) and let the third on the top (to act as something like a taste wick). In a double coil setup, use the bottom and top wick to make the coils and leave the middle one to act as a taste wick and spacer. You can make all the coils you like as long as you respect those 3 points above and I assure you they will all work better or worse but without dry hits or gurgling
Now back to kayfuns
As I've read, kayfun's design isn't exactly a bottom feeder one like say the aerotanks for example. The liquid is pushed inside the chamber through negative differential pressure as you take a draw so, in theory, it should be much more prone to dry hits than in flooding (as opposed to a protank that should flood easier than give dry hits). Is this true?
Regards
Tony
I'd like to follow up on this suggestion, to get *some* use out of the crappy clone I have, but there is a serious problem -- Home Depot doesn't sell drillbits that are metrically measured. What is the equivalent size of that 2.5mm you suggested?
Thx!
Andria
PS: also -- what is the best way to block the airhole, on a kayfun clone that doesn't have airflow control?
Andria, sorry for the late comeback. Out of town tending family health issues, everything fine now tho.
2.5mm come around 1/10 inch (1 inch = 25.4mm) but you won't find a bit that size. I would use either a 1/8 (~3mm) or a 3/32 (~2.4mm).
The best plug for the airhole is a section of a round toothpick. Use your nail clipper to test where it fits and cut a section about 1/8". Force it in with needlenose pliers leaving about half out.. The liquid will expand it for a perfect plug. It can be removed if needed.
Best,
Jorge.
AndriaD: mind telling us what brand that clone is? Hope it isn't ehpro or ivogo...
Regards
Tony
The 2 Tobeco KFL+ clones I have, with the 2mm airflow, those are SUPERB! If the original KFL+ is better than these, the thing must walk on water, heal the sick, raise the dead, and provide a vape that will immediately transport you to paradise. I ain't looking to get to paradise anytime soon, so I'll stick with my Tobecos.
Andria
No, it's really just a "no name" -- got it dirt cheap, like $22 or something equally ridiculous
Well yes until you send them to methen you can be officially out of the club
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