Why don't we have a Kayfun (any version, originals and clones) owners group?
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Hmm... that's a thought, if I can get my husband to do the drilling for me. We'll have to see if he has some metric drillbits. Not a big fan of dripping with my Caterpillar, it's such an intense vape that it takes my breath away, gives me an asthma attack unless I'm *very* careful, but maybe with a kayfun-type build I could tolerate it better.
You mean you used to smoke before vaping?
Like the proverbial chimney.
When I told my son I had become smoke-free thanks to e-cigs, he hollered HALLELUJAH IT'S A MIRACLE! And he was really disappointed when I briefly returned to smoking after my illness, but he understood, the taste was off to me after 4 days of no food, vape, or much to drink, and I had that awful dehydration/electrolyte problem to figure out, before I could return to full-time vaping. He's very pleased that I managed to return to smoke-free after only a month of dual-use. 
Andria
I have two of these. They have the dual AFC as well
Kayfun Lite 2 Clone by Ehpro Rebuildable Atomizer Adjustable Airflow New | eBay
Hi
Well technically I own two kayfun clones (ivogo mini 2.1 and ehpro nano) but since they are somewhere in the mail, I haven't actually used them yet... kinda shameful.
Anyway, just wanted to say hi and get ready to learn the best way to wick those suckers the hard way. I somehow like silica and ekowool. I like the durability and lower maintenance than with wool. However I also like neatly made coils which has been kinda hard because the best wicked coils I made are when I make them sloppy using the silica as a guide (instead of a screw or drill bit). When I make a nice coil, the silica never sits so neat as in a sloppy one so working on the kayfuns (when they arrive) will be certainly challenging and interesting.
Regards
Tony
Well technically I own two kayfun clones (ivogo mini 2.1 and ehpro nano) but since they are somewhere in the mail, I haven't actually used them yet... kinda shameful.
Anyway, just wanted to say hi and get ready to learn the best way to wick those suckers the hard way. I somehow like silica and ekowool. I like the durability and lower maintenance than with wool. However I also like neatly made coils which has been kinda hard because the best wicked coils I made are when I make them sloppy using the silica as a guide (instead of a screw or drill bit). When I make a nice coil, the silica never sits so neat as in a sloppy one so working on the kayfuns (when they arrive) will be certainly challenging and interesting.
Regards
Tony
My preferred way is to wrap in a toothpick (about 1.9mm) then position and tie down. When it's set, remove the toothpick, thread the wick and cut. Cotton and 3mm silica thread very easily. Ecowool needs a bit of torching on one end to harden. Other materials need to be inserted on a 14 ga needletip and pulled in.
Tapatalk Pro / Samsung Galaxy 4
Interesting. Thanks.
Does the 3 mm wick fit in a 1.9mm hole? And then you let just the wick hanging down on each side?
I was imagining something like a figure 8 as I've seen in some videos but on those they wick around the wick directly. Was trying to think about a way to make that but make the coil first before wicking it.
Regards
Tony
Does the 3 mm wick fit in a 1.9mm hole? And then you let just the wick hanging down on each side?
I was imagining something like a figure 8 as I've seen in some videos but on those they wick around the wick directly. Was trying to think about a way to make that but make the coil first before wicking it.
Regards
Tony
Tony, yes, you twist tight the end of the silica wick with a little saliva, then push, pull and trim.
Tapatalk Pro / Samsung Galaxy 4
Tapatalk Pro / Samsung Galaxy 4
If you prefer the figure 8, use 1.5mm wick doubled over a "needle" of kanthal and pull.
Tapatalk Pro / Samsung Galaxy 4
Tapatalk Pro / Samsung Galaxy 4
Hi. Thx again
I don't "prefer" as l actually don't know yet what works and what doesn't. It just looked nice and made kinda sense to me the way the guy wicked the coil.
Right now my experience is only with rebuilding kanger heads in two dozen of configurations (single and dual coils) and after a few failures and finally realizing that having 3x3mm silica was perfect balance between no dry hits and no flooding, I could finally play with the coils themself. Single wrap, double wrap, you name it.
So... For the kayfuns, I will also be trying to find the same magic configuration that won't give dry hits or flood and then let me, hopefully, play with the coil layout.
Regards
Tony
I don't "prefer" as l actually don't know yet what works and what doesn't. It just looked nice and made kinda sense to me the way the guy wicked the coil.
Right now my experience is only with rebuilding kanger heads in two dozen of configurations (single and dual coils) and after a few failures and finally realizing that having 3x3mm silica was perfect balance between no dry hits and no flooding, I could finally play with the coils themself. Single wrap, double wrap, you name it.
So... For the kayfuns, I will also be trying to find the same magic configuration that won't give dry hits or flood and then let me, hopefully, play with the coil layout.
Regards
Tony
Hey Tony, maybe we can exchange tips? You help me put my Aerotanks back i use and I'll teach you all I know about rebuildables (not that much tho... 
).
Take care,
Jorge.
).Take care,
Jorge.
Hi again
Sure! Although I think it isn't fair. Rebuilding kanger heads is super easy. As long as you have 3mm silica wick and the dual coil heads, you can rebuild one in less than 5 minutes. If you have those new "upgraded" ones, it will take a couple of minutes more because you will need to remove that damm sleeve and "convert" it to the old style.
There are only 3 tricks:
1. In the end, regardless of making a single or dual coil head, you have to have 3 stacked 3mm wicks in the groove to ensure no flooding and no dry hits.
2. always use the wick itself as wrapping guide to get a tight contact between the coil and the wick. The kanger tanks are bottom feeders so too much flow is more of an issue than lack of flow.
3. when cutting the excess legs off, make dam sure there isn't any izzy tiny piece sticking out of the plus pole because as you tight down the tank on the mod, the pin will rotate and short out the coil (or coils) if there is any piece of wire sticking out.
The rest is a no-brainer... for a single coil setup, wrap the coil around two 3mm silica strings (bottom 2) and let the third on the top (to act as something like a taste wick). In a double coil setup, use the bottom and top wick to make the coils and leave the middle one to act as a taste wick and spacer. You can make all the coils you like as long as you respect those 3 points above and I assure you they will all work better or worse but without dry hits or gurgling
Now back to kayfuns
As I've read, kayfun's design isn't exactly a bottom feeder one like say the aerotanks for example. The liquid is pushed inside the chamber through negative differential pressure as you take a draw so, in theory, it should be much more prone to dry hits than in flooding (as opposed to a protank that should flood easier than give dry hits). Is this true?
Regards
Tony
Sure! Although I think it isn't fair. Rebuilding kanger heads is super easy. As long as you have 3mm silica wick and the dual coil heads, you can rebuild one in less than 5 minutes. If you have those new "upgraded" ones, it will take a couple of minutes more because you will need to remove that damm sleeve and "convert" it to the old style.
There are only 3 tricks:
1. In the end, regardless of making a single or dual coil head, you have to have 3 stacked 3mm wicks in the groove to ensure no flooding and no dry hits.
2. always use the wick itself as wrapping guide to get a tight contact between the coil and the wick. The kanger tanks are bottom feeders so too much flow is more of an issue than lack of flow.
3. when cutting the excess legs off, make dam sure there isn't any izzy tiny piece sticking out of the plus pole because as you tight down the tank on the mod, the pin will rotate and short out the coil (or coils) if there is any piece of wire sticking out.
The rest is a no-brainer... for a single coil setup, wrap the coil around two 3mm silica strings (bottom 2) and let the third on the top (to act as something like a taste wick). In a double coil setup, use the bottom and top wick to make the coils and leave the middle one to act as a taste wick and spacer. You can make all the coils you like as long as you respect those 3 points above and I assure you they will all work better or worse but without dry hits or gurgling
Now back to kayfuns
As I've read, kayfun's design isn't exactly a bottom feeder one like say the aerotanks for example. The liquid is pushed inside the chamber through negative differential pressure as you take a draw so, in theory, it should be much more prone to dry hits than in flooding (as opposed to a protank that should flood easier than give dry hits). Is this true?
Regards
Tony
I'd like to follow up on this suggestion, to get *some* use out of the crappy clone I have, but there is a serious problem -- Home Depot doesn't sell drillbits that are metrically measured. What is the equivalent size of that 2.5mm you suggested?
Thx!
Andria
PS: also -- what is the best way to block the airhole, on a kayfun clone that doesn't have airflow control?
It's a shame we live so distant from each other. All we have here are metric bits lol. I could send you one or two though but it will take a week or two to arrive there.
Let me know
Regards
Tony
Let me know
Regards
Tony
All the flaky quality control in Kanger and Aspire heads sent me looking for a rebuildable that actually worked like I wanted. I settled on the EHPro Kayfun 3.1 after playing around with mesh in a Genesis for a while.
The Kayfun has been the best and the easiest learning curve yet. If you build it right, it just works and works without hassles. I think that the Nautilus has the potential for better flavor, but the heads need to reach some sort of repeatability. The BVC head seems good and I have one in a Nautilus right now, but it hasn't made me throw the Kayfun in a box and go back to the Nautilus.
My 3.1 is fine with the AFC wide open, but it could use a little more airflow. With a 3mm coil at right angles to the screws, it works and wicks really well. I seldom have to use the finger over the air hole trick to prime. I do sometimes puff a couple of times before hitting the fire button to juice it up a bit.
All I have to do for maintenance is change the wick every 3 days or so and that's little more than a tear down and cleaning and pulling out the old wick and rolling up a new one while it's apart. The rest of the time I just remove the collector cap and fill it through the bottom screw hole.
Kayfun has spoiled me for a while now. My Aerotank Mega and My Nautilus sit on the counter and stare at me. I think they feel abandoned.
The Kayfun has been the best and the easiest learning curve yet. If you build it right, it just works and works without hassles. I think that the Nautilus has the potential for better flavor, but the heads need to reach some sort of repeatability. The BVC head seems good and I have one in a Nautilus right now, but it hasn't made me throw the Kayfun in a box and go back to the Nautilus.
My 3.1 is fine with the AFC wide open, but it could use a little more airflow. With a 3mm coil at right angles to the screws, it works and wicks really well. I seldom have to use the finger over the air hole trick to prime. I do sometimes puff a couple of times before hitting the fire button to juice it up a bit.
All I have to do for maintenance is change the wick every 3 days or so and that's little more than a tear down and cleaning and pulling out the old wick and rolling up a new one while it's apart. The rest of the time I just remove the collector cap and fill it through the bottom screw hole.
Kayfun has spoiled me for a while now. My Aerotank Mega and My Nautilus sit on the counter and stare at me. I think they feel abandoned.
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That's nice to hear. I really hope my experience will be similar to yours. I have to admit that since I started to rebuild my aerotank and Protank mini, I have had the most hassle free vape in years. My last rebuild is working for two weeks non stop and all I do is refill and vape. Didn't have a gurgle or dry hit in over two weeks and the Protank spends most nights and days laying on its side.
I really hope the kayfun nano (ehpro) and mini (ivogo) that are in transit will live up to their name and be at least as good as these I have right now...
Regards
Tony
I really hope the kayfun nano (ehpro) and mini (ivogo) that are in transit will live up to their name and be at least as good as these I have right now...
Regards
Tony
Hmm... any idea where I can find some kind of chart or something, for converting metric measurements to sterling?
Andria
My experience with my Tobeco KFL+ clones has been the same; nice and easy and great to vape -- it was as big a step-up from the kanger T3S as the T3S was from cigalikes!
But if you want a really open airflow, may I suggest the Smok RSBT. it's a little trickier to wick properly, people are saying it's a bit like a Fogger, but the airflow is a great deal airier than any kayfun's; with the kayfun I keep it at about 50% closed; with the RSBT I have to keep it at about 80% closed, for a similar effect. The RSBT is better wicked with organic cotton than rayon, because of rayon's tendency to shrink; in the RSBT it causes a great deal of leaking. It's a good tank; 4ml pyrex, metal sleeve over it with a view window; pyrex driptip, and sliding airflow control -- oh it's also topfill, which was a big selling point for me. DFWvapor has the RSBT for $24.99.
Andria
2.5 mm = .098 inches, which is between a 3/32 and 7/64 drill bit, closer to the 3/32. Drill bits are also referenced by a standardized 'index' number, aka 'gauge' which is common in the machining industry, although I'm not sure Home Depot carries them. If you can find them, a '40' is .098 inches.
Drill chart
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