WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC

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Tpat591

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There was a discussion about this a couple of pages back. I believe the consensus was that Nichrome has too low a TCR value to really be usable, it would have to be something like 0011 on the RX200 if I remember right. I may not be remembering right though. Someone else would know better, but like I said I'm pretty sure the basic thought process from those in the know was that it's not worth it with Nichrome.
Noticed in P Busardos Review of the Kanger topbox he did not even review or test the Nichrome Temperature control mode at all instead saying: "I didn't even try it". I'm assuming that means it doesn't work well so we will ignore it (Like he did with the Nebox he got in October & never reviewed).
 
I've been playing with SS exclusively on the RX200, and I think there are a just a few differences from kanthal. At first I was making compressed coils like I would with kanthal, and I would hit temp protection quickly on my Velocity RDA and immediately on my Aromamizer RTA. I thought it was a wicking problem so I tried tight and loose wicking with little difference. I then used spaced coils, and the difference is significant. Both now produce very dense, flavorful vapor, and neither hit my temp limit (at 430) unless they're going dry. I think that the oxidation layer on SS is not great, and that there's some inter-coil arcing on compressed coils. This holds true for wattage vaping as well, on compressed coils I was getting quite a few burnt hits, on spaced coils I can go for much higher wattages.

Other than that, go ahead and glow SS coils to make them glow from the middle outward, glow to clean, and enjoy that clean vape!
 

Hightech Redneck

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There was a discussion about this a couple of pages back. I believe the consensus was that Nichrome has too low a TCR value to really be usable, it would have to be something like 0011 on the RX200 if I remember right. I may not be remembering right though. Someone else would know better, but like I said I'm pretty sure the basic thought process from those in the know was that it's not worth it with Nichrome.
Sorry wasn't clear, ni as in nickel.
 

zeus01

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I've been playing with SS exclusively on the RX200, and I think there are a just a few differences from kanthal. At first I was making compressed coils like I would with kanthal, and I would hit temp protection quickly on my Velocity RDA and immediately on my Aromamizer RTA. I thought it was a wicking problem so I tried tight and loose wicking with little difference. I then used spaced coils, and the difference is significant. Both now produce very dense, flavorful vapor, and neither hit my temp limit (at 430) unless they're going dry. I think that the oxidation layer on SS is not great, and that there's some inter-coil arcing on compressed coils. This holds true for wattage vaping as well, on compressed coils I was getting quite a few burnt hits, on spaced coils I can go for much higher wattages.

Other than that, go ahead and glow SS coils to make them glow from the middle outward, glow to clean, and enjoy that clean vape!

been doing ss for a while now even on mechs.

i think the key here is the way it gets oxidized

well in contact coils .

i usually dry fire it a couple of times and never had issues on that temp thing.

but for some who are having a hard time.
spaced coils will definietley work
 

WharfRat1976

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So here are my presets.
M1- 0375 for Ti1
M2- 0094 for 317L
M3- 0410 for NifE52 and I am sure that .001 will make all the diff in the world[emoji12]

So I could vape both NiFe 52 and Ti off the same preset and use M3 for Nickel builds or another wire type so that's cool.

So in essence we now have 4 presets for 4 different low resistance wire types.

Very cool.
 
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zeus01

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Sorry, you replied before I could edit my post -- like 10 seconds later. I said things opposite in that last paragraph. Lol. Re-paste in my corrected post (or just delete it), if you could be so kind. Also, re-read it as it will make sense now.

Not enough caffeine today. Sorry about that.

I would use a fresh wick to ensure pure water content.

Right, if you go over 212, TCR is low, increase value.

And vice versa. If you go under 212, TCR is high, decrease value.
bro thanks

a few more been testing ended up @112

question here is how i did it
soaked wick in water
fire ,for a quick second,a few seconds
then the temp goes to 212/goes up. bit then back down
i cant have it stay on 212 it does for 2-3 seconds?


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WharfRat1976

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26g, Ti1, 6/5, 2.5mmID, triple twisted, locked in at .11ohms.

Vaping on M1 setting of 0375.

40 watts at 470F. Great vape. Super smooth. Yes, my screen is fluxuating from the settings to the temp protection screen. Back and forth through the whole vape.

Went to 45 watts and stayed at 470F and works a little better.

Kicked it up to 500F and stayed at 45 watts and a little more flavor.

I'll keep tinkering but so far so good.

Have the default TCRS been posted for the RX200 in Ni, Ti and SS mode? Just curious.

Here are some pics.
96a3160ae8e2d7eab61fea8e4bf8e650.jpg
7e79917353710557b07e117fc8acab28.jpg
 

Aburgvapor

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Sorry to have to ask as I'm new to the forum and have only had a brief minute to skim. But what TCR (if anything different than normal) is anyone using for the stock ni200 crown coils? I did see some members were using these. Thanks for your help. I just don't seem to be getting even what I would consider a warm vape out of the ni coils at the normal ni setting. Even at higher wattages all the way to 600f.
 

Jalcide

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bro thanks

a few more been testing ended up @112

question here is how i did it
soaked wick in water
fire ,for a quick second,a few seconds
then the temp goes to 212/goes up. bit then back down
i cant have it stay on 212 it does for 2-3 seconds?


Sent from my AMOI N820 using Tapatalk

Hmmm. Prolly just a wicking limitation. Sounds like it's close to calibrated. You could try lowering the wattage maybe (that "shouldn't" matter, but does seem to).

I'm using a vertical 2.5mm stainless steel mesh wick (with an Ni200 vert coil around it) on a drilled-out, high-vg-capable genesis atomizer, and tilt the atty so that that the mesh never runs dry (with a tank full of water) -- pretty much ideal wicking conditions (I could brew coffee on this thing). :lol:

It seems to keep it hovering around 212F until the 10 second limit kicks in.

Now that's it's calibrated, I should do tests with water-soaked cotton on a basic RDA and report back. I'm guessing I'll run into a similar limit of a few seconds before running into a cotton-based wicking limit.

Boiling off water is going through liquid volume more quickly than vg/pg and taxes the wicking.
 
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atroph

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Sorry to have to ask as I'm new to the forum and have only had a brief minute to skim. But what TCR (if anything different than normal) is anyone using for the stock ni200 crown coils? I did see some members were using these. Thanks for your help. I just don't seem to be getting even what I would consider a warm vape out of the ni coils at the normal ni setting. Even at higher wattages all the way to 600f.
I was talking to a friend about the crown today and he told me that initial prime made all the difference in the world. He said to literally prime the coil head in your hand till juice is oozing out of it. He was getting dry hits and once he did that he was good to go. Normally if a vape seems anemic it is lack of juice.

I roll my own Ni200 coils and it has been great for me on stock settings. You can bump it up to 610 or 620 TCR and see how it does, but may get into scorched earth territory.

My KF4 needs some juice port work as it turns very anemic after a few pulls. Once the juice resaturates it goes back to normal for a few pulls. Speaking of time to break out the dremel and get to work.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
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Aburgvapor

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I was talking to a friend about the crown today and he told me that initial prime made all the difference in the world. He said to literally prime the coil head in your hand till juice is oozing out of it. He was getting dry hits and once he did that he was good to go. Normally if a vape seems anemic it is lack of juice.

I roll my own Ni200 coils and it has been great for me on stock settings. You can bump it up to 610 or 620 TCR and see how it does, but may get into scorched earth territory.

My KF4 needs some juice port work as it turns very anemic after a few pulls. Once the juice resaturates it goes back to normal for a few pulls. Speaking of time to break out the dremel and get to work.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
I'm not 100% sure I primed it correctly but I attempted to prime it the way I always primed the ss .25 coils. The slow laborious process of no power hits and 5 watt increments. I was kind of guessing with ni coils though as to how to do it. So I started low wattage low temp and slowly bumped both. I haven't gotten any dry or burnt tasting hits. It's just I haven't ever gotten to the warmth or level of flavour I was loving in vw mode. I was hoping the vape would be pretty much the same, just with protection. Thanks for the advice though as I may have improperly primed. I did get a warmer vape when I bumped the tcr to 0610. I'll try it at 620 just didn't want to do something if I "shouldn't" have to do. I don't want to just negate TC if I'm making sense at all. Not to mention, I wondered if dual should be bumped a little higher regardless. I know there's a debate about it, but haven't bothered to wrap my mind around for single and double coils. My initial guess would be it would effect tcr. But I haven't looked into the math.
 
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ShowerHead

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Create a wicking solution where water is boiling off. Preferably distilled water. Doesn't really matter, the test is not accurate enough to detect this. Just don't use salt water.

Start the test with atty, water and wick at room temp, per normal TC best-practices. Fire and watch the temp as it updates. If the TCR is correct, it should hover around 212F.

Btw, I haven't done a lot of testing on the RX, but my guess is that the TCR function is loaded to be slightly hotter than actual. Even though everyone says the TCRs are not hot enough. I have a feeling Joyetech has offered a small olive branch by making them slightly hotter (though still not hot enough for most).

For example. A quick Ni200 test is showing a TCR of around 0580 is delivering what a proper value of 0600 should be. In other words a TCR setting of 0600 is hotter than it should be.

Quick test, so I don't stand firmly behind it yet, but that's what it's looking like.

Also, it seems like the built-in Ni200 mode is way off. It's hovering around 300F for me when boiling off water. Which means its internal TCR is too low; vape would likely appear anemic to most.

Since I suggested it, I did a water test on my RX 200 and its cousin eVic-Mini. Used the same Crown with RBA wrapped with Unkammen SS 430, reads .47 ohms.
I find that a TCR of 147 vapes great on this setup.
But, at that TCR using a sister RBA with a new coil and wick, I got temps in the 160s. I had to go to 90 to get 212.
Using that TCR with this coil hit immediate TP unless I maxed the temp to 600F and then it vaped, just not very well.
Using the builtin SS316L setting gave me 240s.
So, I conclude that the TCR is adjustable, but not associated with anything. Think of it as a governor, set it to where you get a good vape and don't think that it should be this or that for this or that wire.

It is accurate once it is set to your liking though. It just doesn't correspond to a given wire type.
 

Jalcide

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Since I suggested it, I did a water test on my RX 200 and its cousin eVic-Mini. Used the same Crown with RBA wrapped with Unkammen SS 430, reads .47 ohms.
I find that a TCR of 147 vapes great on this setup.
But, at that TCR using a sister RBA with a new coil and wick, I got temps in the 160s. I had to go to 90 to get 212.
Using that TCR with this coil hit immediate TP unless I maxed the temp to 600F and then it vaped, just not very well.
Using the builtin SS316L setting gave me 240s.
So, I conclude that the TCR is adjustable, but not associated with anything. Think of it as a governor, set it to where you get a good vape and don't think that it should be this or that for this or that wire.

It is accurate once it is set to your liking though. It just doesn't correspond to a given wire type.

Yeah, 0090 is way too low for SS430. Very strange. It would be easy to test. Just put the resulting TCR into a DNA200 and see if hits near 212F.

I'm gonna do some testing against a DNA when I get a chance.
 
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