WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC

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Jalcide

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I had to go to 90 to get 212.

Well, I just tested my SS430 wire and it's working fine for me. A TCR of 0145 was hovering at 212F with water as my e-liquid.

I tried your 0090 setting and was getting temps displayed around 285F.

Are you sure your wire is 430 and not repackaged 316? That TCR of 0090 hitting 212F seems too much a coincidence not to question. Where did you get your wire, if I might ask?

Update: I'm getting an incredible vape with SS430 at that TCR, too. And at a temp (440F) that seems reasonable for the e-liquid I'm vaping at the moment that's a 60PG/40VG (a high PG flavor liquid for gennys).

I'm not sure how to calculate it, but with PG's boiling point of 371F at 60% and VG's boiling point at 554F at 40%, a 440F setting seems about spot-on.
 
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Hollywood VA

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The discussion seems to be only ss wire as of late. I am yet to get my hands on some and still have about 990ft of ni lol. Does anyone know the ni TCR value the mod has by default? I know I have to run the temps hotter in my rx to be similar in vape to my li. I am starting to play with the TCR and was hoping someone knew what was used in the base ni mode.

I only have nickel as well and this device was not working right before I started using the TCR. Are you you using just one wire or doing serious builds? I put a recipe for a good staggered nickel clapton thats easy on here yesterday but if you do a build like that your TCR is gonna be a bit higher than just 600-620. I used the wire wizard for the first time and it shows what your output TCR will be appr....all you do is enter the aspects of your build into it. Im at about 740-750 TCR and its so nice no burn whatsoever and full flavor.

A good way to start testing is set all three settings a few numbers apart then cycle through as your vaping at around a temp you would normally enjoy. example m1:645 m2:650 m3:655.......then set temp and wattage where you would ideally want it and switch modes...keep going till you get just where you want, then adjust wattage and temp slightly to get precisely perfect and enjoy!

EDIT: I like my temp and wattage at about 440-480 and 35-45(Another reason I can crank my tcr higher without burning-If you like your temp higher I would start lower than that)
 
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zeus01

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Hmmm. Prolly just a wicking limitation. Sounds like it's close to calibrated. You could try lowering the wattage maybe (that "shouldn't" matter, but does seem to).

I'm using a vertical 2.5mm stainless steel mesh wick (with an Ni200 vert coil around it) on a drilled-out, high-vg-capable genesis atomizer, and tilt the atty so that that the mesh never runs dry (with a tank full of water) -- pretty much ideal wicking conditions (I could brew coffee on this thing). :lol:

It seems to keep it hovering around 212F until the 10 second limit kicks in.

Now that's it's calibrated, I should do tests with water-soaked cotton on a basic RDA and report back. I'm guessing I'll run into a similar limit of a few seconds before running into a cotton-based wicking limit.

Boiling off water is going through liquid volume more quickly than vg/pg and taxes the wicking.

yup kinda figured that out on the first run
cause the wick kinda scorched so
what i did was fire for 2-3 seconds dip in water again retest...
and yeah i think it close to calibrated,,,
or calibrate..but does perform better now..
was used to vape @570
now i am down to 400m :)
 
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zeus01

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I'm trying to figure out this TCR stuff??? Does anyone have a YouTube link that explains this or shows how to do a water test???

Thanks

tcr basically is the number you put in to make your device accurate..

water test,kindly read a few pages back just 1-3 pages,,,i did ask that and someone was kind enough to explain it...
 

zeus01

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Thanks! I read that post already and kind of understand? With all the reviews Peaple are putting up on YouTube this would be a more constructive video?

well not too sure,

but here is how i did it,based on the previous post

so i have a coil already,
take out the wick and rewick basically
if your using a tank that would be easier,just fill the tnak up with water
make sure that the wick is wet with water already

if you are using a dripper keep in mind that everytime you fire the mod,you put drops of water again to saturate

now go to the m1 profile
ive set mine to 100 for a ball park
then set the mod to 300f @40 watts
(i am using single coil thou)

now fire,and watch the temps,

if you go over 212, TCR is low, increase value.

And vice versa. If you go under 212, TCR is high, decrease value.

it should hover around or stay at 212 for a few seconds,
 

GeorgeS

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    then set my watts @50watts (i have a 5/6 loop build on a 3mm guide,twisted ss wire)

    if it hovers 212 tcr is correct?
    if i go over 212 tcr is high?
    reduce value?
    test again

    if i dont hit 212 tcr is low incread?

    You should use LOW wattage so that the temperature of the coil will ramp up (somewhat slowly) to the boiling point of water.

    You want to get the water in your wick boiling. To much power and you'll boil off whatever water is in your wick fairly quickly and chances are you won't even notice the slight pause at 212F.
     
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    Hollywood VA

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    You should use LOW wattage so that the temperature of the coil will ramp up (somewhat slowly) to the boiling point of water.

    You want to get the water in your wick boiling. To much power and you'll boil off whatever water is in your wick fairly quickly and chances are you won't even notice the slight pause at 212F.
    Are you guys doing this to test to every kind of build you use or just for the tcr value of the wire youre using?
     

    ShowerHead

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    Well, I just tested my SS430 wire and it's working fine for me. A TCR of 0145 was hovering at 212F with water as my e-liquid.

    I tried your 0090 setting and was getting temps displayed around 285F.

    Are you sure your wire is 430 and not repackaged 316? That TCR of 0090 hitting 212F seems too much a coincidence not to question. Where did you get your wire, if I might ask?

    Update: I'm getting an incredible vape with SS430 at that TCR, too.

    The wire is Unkammen and since it vapes well using a TCR of 147 on my devices, I have no reason to believe it is not 430. Just pointing out that my device or coil/tank isn't performing as I'd expect on the test. I think I'll have to redo the test, but it was the same on both Joyetech devices I tried.
    Couldn't do it with my ML as it decided to show 32F as the constant temp of the coil.

    Point is, look at the starting point TCR for a wire and then adjust it until >YOU< like the vape. The wires, devices, and tanks aren't to that standardization yet. May never be.

    For me, I'll take your resulting vape as verification of what I came up with. A very nice vape at these settings!
     
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    zeus01

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    You should use LOW wattage so that the temperature of the coil will ramp up (somewhat slowly) to the boiling point of water.

    You want to get the water in your wick boiling. To much power and you'll boil off whatever water is in your wick fairly quickly and chances are you won't even notice the slight pause at 212F.

    thank might try to do that later.
    how low?

    cause i was able to have the 212 mark but just for a few seconds and pulses
     

    Jalcide

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    The wire is Unkammen and since it vapes well using a TCR of 147 on my devices, I have no reason to believe it is not 430. Just pointing out that my device or coil/tank isn't performing as I'd expect on the test. I think I'll have to redo the test, but it was the same on both Joyetech devices I tried.
    Couldn't do it with my ML as it decided to show 32F as the constant temp of the coil.

    Point is, look at the starting point TCR for a wire and then adjust it until >YOU< like the vape. The wires, devices, and tanks aren't to that standardization yet. May never be.

    For me, I'll take your resulting vape as verification of what I came up with. A very nice vape at these settings!

    Yeah, that's a trustworthy wire source. Sounds like it's definitely 430. Very strange.

    Yes, agreed. Ultimately, what one likes and works for them, trumps all.

    But I think we can at least cautiously say the RX200's TCRs do correlate to wire types. I'll feel more confident about that with test results of more builds.

    Also, the test is inherently inaccurate due to the slow update interval on the display. But the TCRs can also be way off, so it does seem to dial some amount of "calibration" (how accurate that is, I'm not certain).

    We really need a Flir cam, temp gun or probe to do it right.

    I don't think this water test is really necessary, unless someone is feeling nerdy and wants to do it. A decent vape can be coaxed out of it, regardless. The system is pretty forgiving.
     
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    TrueNorthist

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    Totally subjective and anecdotal, but I am finding the tcr numbers Jalcide compiled (cheers for that btw) for Ti1 and Ti2 render pretty much the same vape as with my Treebox (with slight differences owing to power, power and maybe power?) so there is some "cross-species" consistency — at least in my world. I consider it an added bonus when something at least performs somewhat similar to another brand. Swapping the same atty/build back and forth.

    I still find myself shaking my head at the price of the rx, considering all the bells and whistles. When reviewers said the rx is the "cheap" version I expected, well... not much at all, but it's definitely exceeding my expectations. If it lasts then I'll be over the moon.
     

    Jalcide

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    You should use LOW wattage so that the temperature of the coil will ramp up (somewhat slowly) to the boiling point of water.

    You want to get the water in your wick boiling. To much power and you'll boil off whatever water is in your wick fairly quickly and chances are you won't even notice the slight pause at 212F.

    Thanks for this. I think this is key. I'm now getting really steady 212F readings.
     

    Jalcide

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    how low thou?
    how many watts>

    Might depend on the build. Not sure. For me it was around 14 to 18 watts. This was on a single, .12 ohm, 28g, Ni200 build. Also on a similar .45 ohm, 28g SS430 build.

    Maybe start low, slowly dial up the wattage until the temp stabilizes (any temp), then tweak the TCR until that temp is 212F.

    Also, let it sit and adjust to room temp, "refine" and re-test.
     
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    2legsshrt

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    26g, Ti1, 6/5, 2.5mmID, triple twisted, locked in at .11ohms.

    Vaping on M1 setting of 0375.

    40 watts at 470F. Great vape. Super smooth. Yes, my screen is fluxuating from the settings to the temp protection screen. Back and forth through the whole vape.

    Went to 45 watts and stayed at 470F and works a little better.

    Kicked it up to 500F and stayed at 45 watts and a little more flavor.

    I'll keep tinkering but so far so good.

    Have the default TCRS been posted for the RX200 in Ni, Ti and SS mode? Just curious.

    Here are some pics.
    96a3160ae8e2d7eab61fea8e4bf8e650.jpg
    7e79917353710557b07e117fc8acab28.jpg
    That also is where I seem to get the best vape with both the RX and VTCmini 375 , my SX seems right on at 366 of course it has to be taken into account that they both read my resistance about .02-.04 high but 375 works at about 450F with Ti01.
     
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    shatteredsoul76

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    Just got a Rx200 and after turning it on I noticed the LED screen is a tad crooked on the right side, anyone else have or seen this issue? How hard would it be to pop the front cover off and adjust the screen? Id rather try and fix it instead of contacting the seller for a refund/return.
     

    atroph

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    Mine is just a touch crooked, but not worth damaging the LCD trying to tweak it. I do stealth mode so I don't usually look at the screen very much to really notice.

    You can easily remove the cover and attempt to move it yourself. Be very careful as the LCD and its connecting wire are very fragile.
     
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