WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC

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WharfRat1976

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May 31, 2014
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Is there any easy way to get the "new coil up/same down" prompt to come up? I'm running two different builds in two different attys, both using SS316L, both happen to come in at 0.10 and 0.11 ohms, but neither react the same on my m1 slot set at 140 to get a satisfying vape.
vape both in power mode at 50 watts.
 
i have it in a Hurricane and a Veritas. i have the temp set way up to 530 - 550 at only 20 watts? i'm getting a good vape with this setting but shouldn't the watts be set higher? with my sub ohm builds the power is cranked way up not so with temp builds? also should i be locking in the resistance? i tend to swap tanks quit often?
sorry for all the questions.
Are you doing compressed or spaced coils? I find that SS does not like compressed coils, and it will typically go to temp protection almost immediately due to inter-coil shorts. Try spaced coils, and you should be able to vape at higher wattage (e.g. 60W) and lower temp limits (mine is at 430F).
Other than that, lock resistance when cold, use both the SS and M profiles to be able to easily switch tanks without unlocking the resistance, and set the TCR higher than 92 due to the way the mod acts. Mine is set to 125 for dual coil setups.
Good luck!
 

Jim_ MDP

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Sep 24, 2015
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Other than that, lock resistance when cold, use both the SS and M profiles to be able to easily switch tanks without unlocking the resistance

Locking resistance is almost never required now and the need is getting rarer and rarer with new mods.
Start at room temp ("cold") and the mod stores the value in a register.

You should lock if... the mod requires it, you have a misbehaving atty (poor connectivity, drifting res but tight screws), or you want to remove a warm tank to refill it.

You should not switch attys without unlocking the res. If they're very near the same res... do whatever the hell you have to, to make the mod ask new/same, or cycle the power.
eta: rereading that part... do you mean swapping tanks but keeping both values running, for testing perhaps ? Sure, if the mod'll go for it, sounds workable. A couple of mine will.
 
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I meant use the SS profile for one atty and the M1-3 profile for another atty. You can lock the resistance for each independently, just like if you locked one each for Ni, Ti, and SS.
And I agree you probably don't HAVE to lock the resistance, but then a) it's easier to remember which atty goes with each profile and b) the displayed resistance won't drift with actual resistance as the coil heats up.
jacovii, try removing the atty, switching to wattage mode, switching back to SS (or M1-3), reinstall the atty, and fire once. If it asks if it's a new coil, press the up button.
 

Hollywood VA

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Jan 17, 2016
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One thing to note, M1-M3 seem to share the same "profile". While you can set the different TCRs for each memory spot, the lock (and thus coil info?) carries over between each. So if you lock one spot, all three are locked. This means that while this makes it easy to test different TCRs for the same build, if you switch builds it might error out to wattage mode unless you follow the proper procedure (unlock resistance, remove atty, switch to desired TC mode, replace cold atty, lock resistance).

It will take a little testing, but that's how I see it based on how the RX is sharing the resistance lock.
Any update on if you can lock resistance of diff attys in diff modes? I still dont understand if this resistance lock even has a purpose?? mine keeps randomly falling a .01 and it totally kills the vape.....with or without the resistance locked. It seems to only happen after its been resting a while and if I reset it or put another atty on then switch it back its fine. Maybe another update will make the lock more accurate....
 

Hollywood VA

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Jan 17, 2016
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I meant use the SS profile for one atty and the M1-3 profile for another atty. You can lock the resistance for each independently, just like if you locked one each for Ni, Ti, and SS.
And I agree you probably don't HAVE to lock the resistance, but then a) it's easier to remember which atty goes with each profile and b) the displayed resistance won't drift with actual resistance as the coil heats up.
jacovii, try removing the atty, switching to wattage mode, switching back to SS (or M1-3), reinstall the atty, and fire once. If it asks if it's a new coil, press the up button.
OK so what is the exact order of steps to lock diff atty resistances without accidentally making the device forget them....Its weird sometimes even locked the resistance is changing on the device....Dont really get the purpose if its supposed to know the resting resistance anyway.....and how come it almost NEVER asks me new coil or same....Someone said it had to be a change of .20 or more in resistance but I like all my builds around the same and I think its a pain to have to switch attys just to reset the resistance.....any ways around that?
 

Hollywood VA

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Jan 17, 2016
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Double check your build. Mine has never unlocked? Vid for reference.

kyle is awesome lol havent watched that yet but I will.....I honestly think it might be this one tank....does anyone else have an obs t-vct with rba? I have had a problem on rare occasions with other tanks but mostly this one.....
 

Jim_ MDP

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Sep 24, 2015
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I meant use the SS profile for one atty and the M1-3 profile for another atty. You can lock the resistance for each independently, just like if you locked one each for Ni, Ti, and SS.
And I agree you probably don't HAVE to lock the resistance, but then a) it's easier to remember which atty goes with each profile and b) the displayed resistance won't drift with actual resistance as the coil heats up.

Ah, gotchca. Thanks.
The mod keeps a register for each main mode and one for the three mem slots.
The mod heats up too, so I don't do much TC tank swapping... it's a dodgy enough enterprise as is. :p
 

USMCotaku

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Apr 25, 2014
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i did my first SS coil. i think it is 316? i did a 3mm coil came to 0.30 ohms. using the SS preset and have 20.0 watts set. to get a good vape with out hitting temp cutout i have to set to 530 temp?
does this sound right? I tried setting up a custom preset up with 20 watts and TCR at 90 and i hit temp cutout instantly? what TCR numbers should i start with? i thought 88 - 92 was for 316L? and what about the watts is that to low at 20 watts???
thanks for your help just trying to understand all this???
tcr will vary from batch to batch, company to company, on SS wires, I am currently running a 316L build at tcr of 88, and it is perfect. don't be afraid to try different ranges of tcr settings.....SS wire isn't like ti or ni, so at worst you may need to rewick if you get the setting wrong :p
 

Hollywood VA

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Jan 17, 2016
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Ah, gotchca. Thanks.
The mod keeps a register for each main mode and one for the three mem slots.
The mod heats up too, so I don't do much TC tank swapping... it's a dodgy enough enterprise as is. :p
Ok so its really just most likely a component givin
Locking resistance is almost never required now and the need is getting rarer and rarer with new mods.
Start at room temp ("cold") and the mod stores the value in a register.

You should lock if... the mod requires it, you have a misbehaving atty (poor connectivity, drifting res but tight screws), or you want to remove a warm tank to refill it.

You should not switch attys without unlocking the res. If they're very near the same res... do whatever the hell you have to, to make the mod ask new/same, or cycle the power.
eta: rereading that part... do you mean swapping tanks but keeping both values running, for testing perhaps ? Sure, if the mod'll go for it, sounds workable. A couple of mine will.

Ok so if I dont lock the resistance but the device is supposed to for me and I switch tanks without locking or anything and its near the same resistance than its bad for the mod? Can it make the calibrations off eventually or something? At first I was switching for testing purposes but I keep about 5 tanks all with rbas-nickel claptons-and I like to have diff ones in rotation. I do have a few drippers and enjoy it only for sampling purposes as I am lazy and/or forget to drip on a regular basis and end up with the bad taste eventually somehow and cant stand it. I love having a wide variety so I can always swap fairly fast if im low or out or just want a new taste. Also sometimes im getting it to where the mouthpiece is getting hot from steady non stop use lol....I cant help it some juices are really good.....Ill swap it to let it cool and with out it locked if theyre .01 off it will just act like It is still the other tank and keep resting resistance the same. Hoping I havent messed anything up by doing this....kind of irritating it doesnt ask me same or new whenever ANY atty is removed and replaced...seems itd be more effective
 

Clydde26

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Jan 20, 2016
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I have a twisted 26 ga Ti build 7 wrap with a 3.5mm inner diameter. Its resistance is right around .3. This is a vertical coil built on the Wotofo Serpent. Im having issues with using ti mode on the rx going straight into temp protection as soon as i fire... and when i mess with the TCR settings, had to go well above the recommended for Ti wire by the way, Im still having to keep the temp around 550 degrees to avoid instant temp protect with a barely luke warm vape. When i move the atty over to my Sigelei Fuchai, I can vape it at 475 degrees and the vape is a nice dense warm vape. Any help as to how to solve this issue or is this just another bug with the firmware on the chip that we will have to wait until it gets ironed out?
 

Hollywood VA

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Jan 17, 2016
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I have a twisted 26 ga Ti build 7 wrap with a 3.5mm inner diameter. Its resistance is right around .3. This is a vertical coil built on the Wotofo Serpent. Im having issues with using ti mode on the rx going straight into temp protection as soon as i fire... and when i mess with the TCR settings, had to go well above the recommended for Ti wire by the way, Im still having to keep the temp around 550 degrees to avoid instant temp protect with a barely luke warm vape. When i move the atty over to my Sigelei Fuchai, I can vape it at 475 degrees and the vape is a nice dense warm vape. Any help as to how to solve this issue or is this just another bug with the firmware on the chip that we will have to wait until it gets ironed out?
I use nickel clapton- twisted 32 ga wires for a core and a 32 ga for the outer...about 2.5-3.5 mm wraps depending on the base and I have to have my TCR at about 745 to get a consistent vape but its way better than my snow wolf....havent tried the fuschai yet but I think the TCR is definitely off too just seems it should be maybe 50 less or so? I keep refreshing the wismec site daily HOPING TO SEE THAT 3.0 CHANGE. . .
 

Jim_ MDP

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Sep 24, 2015
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Ok so its really just most likely a component givin


Ok so if I dont lock the resistance but the device is supposed to for me and I switch tanks without locking or anything and its near the same resistance than its bad for the mod? Can it make the calibrations off eventually or something? At first I was switching for testing purposes but I keep about 5 tanks all with rbas-nickel claptons-and I like to have diff ones in rotation. I do have a few drippers and enjoy it only for sampling purposes as I am lazy and/or forget to drip on a regular basis and end up with the bad taste eventually somehow and cant stand it. I love having a wide variety so I can always swap fairly fast if im low or out or just want a new taste. Also sometimes im getting it to where the mouthpiece is getting hot from steady non stop use lol....I cant help it some juices are really good.....Ill swap it to let it cool and with out it locked if theyre .01 off it will just act like It is still the other tank and keep resting resistance the same. Hoping I havent messed anything up by doing this....kind of irritating it doesnt ask me same or new whenever ANY atty is removed and replaced...seems itd be more effective

Yeah, there's no universal procedure for forcing the new/same query, and when it happens too often with a mod you get flocks of unhappy vapers complaining it shouldn't be asking all the time.
Can't win for losing. :p

Swapping hot can't hurt the mod, but it can hurt your enjoyment of it.
If the mod now has an incorrect calculation of the coil's temp, it throws off the vape.
At best... you just adjust the temp a couple clicks up or down and go on with your day.
At worst... you continue until dry, but that protection is blown now so you get a burnt hit.

Again... unless the mod or the atty actually requires you to lock the resistance, I'd say... don't.
Let the mod do its' job, if possible. You'll know soon enough if you need the lock.

Prior to the VTC, I'd "trick" mine upward by 4 or 6 hundredths and lock it, to warm up an anemic vape.
Now... when one reads a couple, or even a single hundredth high, there's a significant difference.
Does this mean our "budget" TC mods are improving? No idea.
But that 0.01 example is the only time in a couple months I've used the lock feature... Velocity RDA, VTC, the different modes were reading a different res (it's always something with the VTC).
I chose to use the lock.

Tested, but not yet needed on the RX.
 

Deize

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Jan 26, 2016
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Hey first time posting here. I bought rx200 and Im thinking that something funky is going on with it's battery life. Battery indicator always has a small empty space after putting in fully charged LG HG2s (charged with nitecore i4) and I get like max 6-10 hours vaping at 60W 440f. This equals to about 8-10mls and my build eats juice really fast. Is this normal battery life for rx200? I was expecting like atleast a full day.
 

USMCotaku

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Apr 25, 2014
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Hey first time posting here. I bought rx200 and Im thinking that something funky is going on with it's battery life. Battery indicator always has a small empty space after putting in fully charged LG HG2s (charged with nitecore i4) and I get like max 6-10 hours vaping at 60W 440f. This equals to about 8-10mls and my build eats juice really fast. Is this normal battery life for rx200? I was expecting like atleast a full day.
are the lg batteries new?
 
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