WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC

[pevinsghost]

As far as the higher resistance being better for TC... It's true that the mod will be able to calculate temp easier/better, BUT keep in mind that the build still has to be good anyway.

Higher # wraps means more mass and is going to take more power/time to heat. Thinner wire can get finicky. And there's of course space limitations.

So a higher base resistance is better all else being equal, but all else is never equal. Finding a balance of trade offs is key. As in all things vaping, really.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Quite right.
There are several factors affecting performance that need to be balanced...
... then the damn thing needs to actually fit in the atty.

 

[WharfRat1976]

I just built another spaced Ti coil & running in Ti mode or TCR @375 it's just meh. Running the same coil in power mode @32 watts though is WOW. Too bad I'm not real comfortable running Ti in power mode, maybe I'll build a twisted K1 build & stick with power mode at this point? My SMY Mini60 TC runs the same Ti build in the same tank MUCH better, as in the same as the RX in power mode. So it's either the TCR that's off in my RX200 settings or the RX just isn't liking my Ti build.

I don't think it has much to do with the mod. It works that way on all my temp mods. TC acts like a restrictor plate in a race car. It acts like a choke on a carburetor. Put the gas on your Ti builds and fly. As long as you are not oxidizing you are good to go.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!







This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.

 

[WharfRat1976]

well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!







This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.

BRO, looks like a successful surgical procedure. Hope she holds.

 

[KenD]

well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!







This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.

You don't happen to have any pics from inside the rx, and/or any "making of" pics?

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[EverPresentNoob]

No, but when I tear it down to add insulation nad clean up the cuts to the batt try Ill get some.

 

[KenD]

No, but when I tear it down to add insulation nad clean up the cuts to the batt try Ill get some.

Looking forward to that.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[EverPresentNoob]

Its actually really easy to tear down. screw on top an screw on bottom, Five visible screws in the battery tray, pull the foam plug from teh screw covering neg strap and remove that screw, de-solder red wire from bottom batt + on side of board and it comes apart. Yea, that sounds confusing... Ill take pictures...

 

[arh32]

Its actually really easy to tear down. screw on top an screw on bottom, Five visible screws in the battery tray, pull the foam plug from teh screw covering neg strap and remove that screw, de-solder red wire from bottom batt + on side of board and it comes apart. Yea, that sounds confusing... Ill take pictures...

HA

 

[EverPresentNoob]

HA

I see your HA, and raise you a HA-HA!

 

[2legsshrt]

well I was having issues with the 510 on my RX. darn thing kept reading one of my tanks as an atty short regardless what I tried. read somewhere that the 510 in some of these were suspect. so that coupled with the fact that it wasnt flush with the top of the mod I decided to perform surgery last night. stripped everything out of the RX, unsoldered the 510 and replaced it with a FDV V4 510. Im much happier now. Had to do a touch of carving on the battery tray, but all in all it was pretty simple to do. the deck of the 510 sits a little proud, I didnt remove the two protrusions, and Im actually pretty glad I didnt. inside it was rather tight. the bottome of the 510 almost makes contact with the board. as soon as my capton tapecomes in im going to open it up again and put some better insulation on the top of the board just incase. Realistically it shouldnt be an issue as it is the bottom positive part of the 510 that is close and if it touches anything it would only be touching the positive wire from the board that is soldered to the 510 pos pin. but still, it bugs me. anyway, on to a couple pics!







This took me around an hour to do... Mainly because I wasnt understanding what was touching as I tried to put the batt tray back in. when I finally realized that it wasnt the 510 nut but infact the positive pin and hex I was able to clearance the tray for that and it only took a few mins. When I reopen it to add the insulation im going to to work at smoothing out the edges of the cuts and make them look good. I just mainly wanted to use this as a proof of concept that it would work as i wanted. Ill make it pretty later.

Wow good job. I wish I had the know how to do that. Mine was like it was stuck down and wouldn't make a good contact. The spring that is in it seems really weak, but I got it to come up finally and put a touch of LPS on it and worked it up and down and has worked pretty good since. That replacement is the best one I've seen so far. The 510 seems to be the one weak point on this mod plus it doesn't read the resistance real good but close enough. I don't know how Kanger is using Nichrome for TC the newest SX the Q will be able to set the TCR that low but I really doubt that the TC would still work really well. I think the higher the TCR the better it is supposed to work in TC. Not positive on that but I know that the TCR of nickel is like .00600 which is pretty high Kanthal is .00002. Anyhoo great replacement.

 

[EverPresentNoob]

And here is the write up with pics for replacing the 510. YMMV....

Replacing the 510 in an RX200... Fairly easy actually.

 

[Illness]

My rx200 always thinks it's charging. I've checked the battery voltage and they are all balanced. I've checked the ground screw and it's tight. I'm unsure what my next step is. I would contact my retailer but the device was dropped a few weeks ago but this problem didn't show up till about a week later.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

They could still be connected... and something inside maybe no longer is.

Sorry.

What do you mean "thinks it's charging" ?
I don't think I've ever had mine plugged in outside of the few seconds it took to put 3.0 on.
So I really don't know its' charging behavior.

 

[Quantum Mech]

Summit to keep her warm when working out side in the great british winter

 

[Hightech Redneck]

Purdy

 

[MadTemp]

do you have to space the SS 316L coils? or contact coils work?

 

[EverPresentNoob]

I have both spaced and contact coils of SS 316 and 304 in various tanks. they both work fine. Just be aware that when you dry fire a contact dont just mash down the fire button, really short pulses to bring up the coils temp otherwise I find the legs get redhot quickly and pop. basically i will tap the fire button about like i was trying to turn off my RX, just a little slower so that it dosent actually turn off. multiple short bursts are needed.

 

[ThunderDan]

do you have to space the SS 316L coils? or contact coils work?

Spaced coils seem to work better for me with SS316 for TC. Contact coils with SS316 on the RX200 hit temp protect too quickly/gave off little vapor when I tried it, YMMV.