WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC

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DaveP

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there should be a warning on the RX200 box, "DO NOT CHARGE batteries VIA USB" scary! I always remove my batts on my RX200! always ;) just asking for trouble charging 3 batteries without balance charging!

That's probably why the USB port on the Smok Koopor Plus 200W is for firmware upgrades only. I charge all my 18650's in my Efest LUC 4.
 
Unfortunately my RX200 is still acting up... what I described earlier, about the battery meter being empty then moving back to where it's supposed to be, is what happens when you first put the batteries in and the device comes on. So it looks like the device is losing power somehow when I push the fire button. I can't seem to duplicate it, but I did notice a couple of times when I was checking the battery voltage by holding down the power and down buttons that the device would power on by itself, pretty much behaving the same way. There must be something loose somewhere...

Mine does this as well. It usually happens when I vape a good bit, then leave it sit for 10 minutes or so. When it happens to me, it also drops the resistance reading and says "no atomizer" when I hit the fire button. When I was using Nickel, sometimes it would fire when it did this and burn the crap out of my cotton. Not sure what the deal is, but I've gotten used to it, and thankfully it really doesn't happen that often.
 

fishwater

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While the point is taken in regards to battery safety & charging via USB. I was traveling this week & forgot to charge my RX200 so I used my USB charger in my truck. I charged for at least an hour or so, actually probably two hours, to get through the day & then used the mod until the battery levels were where I would usually charge. Just put those batteries on my charger & all thre were within .01 of each other, just as they usually are when I remove them from the mod to charge. So while I'm not disputing DJLsb vapes I am mentioning my recent personal experience as far as balanced cells go. As always, YMMV.
 
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VapinBlues

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Mine does this as well. It usually happens when I vape a good bit, then leave it sit for 10 minutes or so. When it happens to me, it also drops the resistance reading and says "no atomizer" when I hit the fire button. When I was using Nickel, sometimes it would fire when it did this and burn the crap out of my cotton. Not sure what the deal is, but I've gotten used to it, and thankfully it really doesn't happen that often.
I haven't noticed any "no atomizer" message yet, but I'll take a look next time it happens, in case I missed it.
 

Mrmik

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The RX I ordered was delivered about an hr ago and it is really fantastic for the $34.95 I paid for it. It came with 3.0 loaded already so I didn't even need to do the firmware update. I haven't had a lot of time to use it but have used Kanthal, SS430 & Nifethal 52 and it's reading resistance dead on with everything I've tried. Set the TCR's on the device and it's vaping very similar to my other devices. Fit & finish are pretty good, (and I'm being picky here) some slight misalignment in some of the covers and some wear marks inside the battery cover where it mates to the mod so not sure how durable the paint will be but I had ordered a sleeve so that should help with that. Very pleased so far, no real con's aside from what I knew before I bought it.

I am about ready to order one and wonder if I can ask where you got this from?
 

Mrmik

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I am glad to have found this thread and started reading backwards...... Oh man..... would take me all day.....
Pardon me if this has been covered earlier.
Question:
Batteries are connected in series and therefore, if I understand it right, the output would be limited to the ratings of battery? I.e. Samsung 25R would be limited to 20A constant output.
I am running my TFV4 with .15 quad coil at 70W, 21A and just 3.2V. Suppose I go up to 100W, it would be 25A, over the limit of battery.
 

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Vlad1

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I am glad to have found this thread and started reading backwards...... Oh man..... would take me all day.....
Pardon me if this has been covered earlier.
Question:
Batteries are connected in series and therefore, if I understand it right, the output would be limited to the ratings of battery? I.e. Samsung 25R would be limited to 20A constant output.
I am running my TFV4 with .15 quad coil at 70W, 21A and just 3.2V. Suppose I go up to 100W, it would be 25A, over the limit of battery.

No the output current is limited by the board design and components used. Battery voltage in series adds voltage so input voltage wouldn't be 3.2V. Also with a regulated mod the board is the load to the batteries not the atomizer. The board converts the input power and delivers it on the output circuit to the atomizer.

Using your settings remember Power in = Power out - efficiency loss's.

I'm not considering efficiency loss below just to simplify the example.
Input as seen from the battery side
70W
11.1V
6.3A
1.76Ω

Output as seen from the atomizer
70W
3.24V
21.6A
.15Ω

So with 3 batteries in series with a voltage of 11.1V the current drain on the batteries would be about 6.3A on the input with a load to the batteries of about 1.76Ω. While the output current is 21.6A it's irrelevant to the drain on batteries since the converter has handled the buck/boost necessary and only pulled about 6A from the batteries.
 
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Mrmik

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I ordered it from Fasttech during their holiday sale https://www.fasttech.com/p/3861801 I have seen some sales recently around the same price from the states but they go pretty fast. You might keep an eye on Wismec Reuleaux RX200

Yes, they had like 20% off at that time. I ordered one more TFV4, ome RDA and some more I can not remember. Heck, it was more than one month ago. LOL
Ya know their holiday closing......
Will keep an eye out.
Thanks!
 

deucesjack

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Mrmik

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No the output current is limited by the board design and components used. Battery voltage in series adds voltage so input voltage wouldn't be 3.2V. Also with a regulated mod the board is the load to the batteries not the atomizer. The board converts the input power and delivers it on the output circuit to the atomizer.

Using your settings remember Power in = Power out - efficiency loss's.

I'm not considering efficiency loss below just to simplify the example.
Input as seen from the battery side
70W
11.1V
6.3A
1.76Ω

Output as seen from the atomizer
70W
3.24V
21.6A
.15Ω

So with 3 batteries in series with a voltage of 11.1V the current drain on the batteries would be about 6.3A on the input with a load to the batteries of about 1.76Ω. While the output current is 21.6A it's irrelevant to the drain on batteries since the converter has handled the buck/boost necessary and only pulled about 6A from the batteries.

Aha.... alright. That is clearly explained! Thanks a lot!

In other words, divide atomizer current draw by 3 minus a little for the efficiency loss.
 

deucesjack

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I was also eyeing Cuboid but think Reuleaux with the battery power outweighs the feature of a large display.
I have both. Both are great mods. The Cuboid is definitely more pocket friendly, but I still like my RX better. It's a true all day mod.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk
 

Mrmik

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I have both. Both are great mods. The Cuboid is definitely more pocket friendly, but I still like my RX better. It's a true all day mod.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk

Yep!

On a funny thought..... who did think that 9,000 mah battery power would last ALL DAY?

I have a dual 18650 mod with TFV4 .15 quad coil and I am counting HOURS before batteries are out.
 

pevinsghost

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Aha.... alright. That is clearly explained! Thanks a lot!

In other words, divide atomizer current draw by 3 minus a little for the efficiency loss.
Not exactly, it works out that way in this particular case, but would be different multiples for different resistances.

The rule for current pulled from the batteries in regulated mods is:
Take the power you are applying to the atomizer in watts, divide by the battery voltage.

Since the battery voltage drops as the charge is expended, regulated work exactly the opposite of unregulated of when they pull the most current! So the lower the voltage, the more amps will be pulled to hit the power requested.

So when calculating amperage in regulated mods to check if you're in the batteries safe range, always calculate with the lowest voltage they could be giving you. Most of the time they'll be pulling less, but you want to keep in a safe range the whole time.

In the case of triple 18650, that's 3x 3.2 volts, or 9.6v. (You don't want to run this low, but you do want a safety margin as well, so it's a good number to calculate with.)

The math works the other way too, so if you multiply 9.6v by your battery current rating, you'll find the max safe power for your batteries in a Reuleaux.

I.E.: for 25amp batteries, the max safe power is 240Watts... more than the device will allow. But with 15amp batteries it's only 144Watts.

Meanwhile in a 2 battery mod, the 25amp batts are only good to 160Watts.
 

DaveP

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I have no issues with charging single battery mods with USB wall chargers. I was curious about how much amperage draw there was from my 4 port 2.4A wall charger, so I ordered the Volt/Amp digital meter below. You just plug it into the USB source and then plug in the device you want to charge. It displays the current voltage and the amperage draw. Almost everything I've charged with it inline has charged at around 800ma. You can watch the current draw increment downwards as the device charges.

For $12 it's a must for anyone who wants to know the amperage draw on a USB device.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JIFMXSK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
 
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