Works great for me. I'm using ss304.
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WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC
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That's what's in my Crown, but it's idle ATM because my RBA wicking skills suck badly (or it's the Uwell RBA... or both).
So I just now popped my V Mini on (0.18 dual 316L) and it's odd. I have to turn the temp up pretty substantially. I don't think the RX understands or plays well with SS dual coils.
Which is pretty common actually.
I'll have to get the Crown up and running again and test that.
I had a heck of a time and was ready to return to my STM.That's what's in my Crown, but it's idle ATM because my RBA wicking skills suck badly (or it's the Uwell RBA... or both).
Then, I found that if I take a piece of cotton that is WAY to big, separate it and put the inside out, roll a little to thread it into the coil, then pull it really hard to get it in, it works well. No leaks at all.
Cut it a bit so you can bend the wick into an S shape, make the bend of the S be at the location of the windows in the chimney, snap the chimney in place being careful not to trap any cotton in it. Don't prime it by dripping juice down the middle, just put juice in the tank and let it sit for 30-45 minutes. Take a couple of pulls, then hit the fire button.
Been working fine for me over a few rewicks and coil changes on two Crown tanks and RBAs.
Thanks, but S-wicking didn't work for me. May try again though.
Right now I've got the "pads" on the inside of each juice slot. It's an approximation of the full wrap "blanket" found in the factory verts.
Works better than the S but still dry hit central.
I'm just not up for re-attempting either, or my eGo CLRs for that matter.
Same issue... dry hits.
Not when the 'Mizer is so easy to wick.
Right now I've got the "pads" on the inside of each juice slot. It's an approximation of the full wrap "blanket" found in the factory verts.
Works better than the S but still dry hit central.
I'm just not up for re-attempting either, or my eGo CLRs for that matter.
Same issue... dry hits.
Not when the 'Mizer is so easy to wick.
CLRs be sure to remove the juice control ring adjustment completely (if you are rebuilding for the JT mega).Thanks, but S-wicking didn't work for me. May try again though.
Right now I've got the "pads" on the inside of each juice slot. It's an approximation of the full wrap "blanket" found in the factory verts.
Works better than the S but still dry hit central.
I'm just not up for re-attempting either, or my eGo CLRs for that matter.
Same issue... dry hits.
Not when the 'Mizer is so easy to wick.
Hmmm, never had a dry hit, but juice poured from it until I really packed the S into it and made certain it pressed tight against the windows.
I use DIY 40/60 PG/VG juice and that could be the reason for no dry hits with such a tight wick.
You know, I'd give the 'Mizer a try if it weren't bottom fill. I'm spoiled now with the top fill of the Crown.
Seems to be easier on the 510 threads too, not just me being lazy.
I use DIY 40/60 PG/VG juice and that could be the reason for no dry hits with such a tight wick.
You know, I'd give the 'Mizer a try if it weren't bottom fill. I'm spoiled now with the top fill of the Crown.
Seems to be easier on the 510 threads too, not just me being lazy.
their may be a screen cover....its on there so flush its near impossible to see....I thought that about mine since it was a vendor sample....but after working on a corner for a bit, I was able to find and remove the protector.
I am successfully vaping on a dual SS316l set up!
I am guessing the 1.08 update did a little more then just font, because before I did the update it just did not like dual coil builds in TC. Now it is handling it, (the same build, that I used on my asolo since I couldn't get it stable on this mod) with flying colours. build is 22 gauge ss316 @ .19 ohms.....was shooting for .2, but whatta ya gonna do?
I am guessing the 1.08 update did a little more then just font, because before I did the update it just did not like dual coil builds in TC. Now it is handling it, (the same build, that I used on my asolo since I couldn't get it stable on this mod) with flying colours. build is 22 gauge ss316 @ .19 ohms.....was shooting for .2, but whatta ya gonna do?
oh, I am running it at 80 watts and 450 degrees, on the TFV4 mini, and its blowing nice big warm clouds, what you would expect at 450 
Works great for me too I'm using Ti01 have to use a little higher temp then I'm used to with the SXM like 490-520F but performs great.
Anyone else finding their SS and Ti builds dropping down into Watts mode? I started noticing this over the week end. I have two RX200s. I have four different attys two with SS builds and two with Ti builds. Doesn't matter which atty on which RX200, I set the device to the wire specification and vape on it. I look down at the display and it has reset itself to Watts. Starting to drive me crazy.
I have (had?) the same problem with the rx200 resetting to watts on SS. I think I've solved it, but it's only been a few days, so we'll see if it holds...
Based on feedback from another user, I think the mod is resetting to watts because the coil is not behaving as expected. And I think by switching to TC mode with the atty attached, it assumes it's the same coil (i.e. the mod saves the "profile" for the coil in each TC mode) and errors out again. I think this is true because even with the resistance unlocked, if I switch between modes with the atty attached, the resistance is reading wrong on SS (as compared to wattage or even the other TC modes)
So to reset this profile, I've unlocked the resistance, taken off the atty, cycled through the modes until I get to SS (the resistance will read as zero), then reinstalled the atty so that it can read the resistance correctly. I tried this Sunday, and it hasn't jumped to wattage mode for at least 24 h. Small timeframe I know, but it's worked so far...
Based on feedback from another user, I think the mod is resetting to watts because the coil is not behaving as expected. And I think by switching to TC mode with the atty attached, it assumes it's the same coil (i.e. the mod saves the "profile" for the coil in each TC mode) and errors out again. I think this is true because even with the resistance unlocked, if I switch between modes with the atty attached, the resistance is reading wrong on SS (as compared to wattage or even the other TC modes)
So to reset this profile, I've unlocked the resistance, taken off the atty, cycled through the modes until I get to SS (the resistance will read as zero), then reinstalled the atty so that it can read the resistance correctly. I tried this Sunday, and it hasn't jumped to wattage mode for at least 24 h. Small timeframe I know, but it's worked so far...
Got a chuckle with his mismatched batts in his dna. They were all samsung but saw green and smurf. Personally wish he had paid more attention there, may give a newbie the wrong idea on married batts.
I haven't had the problem with the Ubertoot and RX 200 running 24 gauge Grade 1 titanium 7 wraps on a 3mm mandrel, although I have experienced it with other attys that had unstable resistance. Those problematic experiences were all with the DNA 200 and I haven't used the "bad" attys on the RX 200 so I can't comment. I do expect in my case that I would have the same problem with the RX 200 since my problems were traced to the attys and not the board.
My first guess is that there's a wandering resistance problem somewhere. On the DNA 200 this can also show up with very low power levels that don't heat the coil quickly enough to avoid a built in algorithm that causes the device to default to power mode.
Duane
I also imagine that for new builds, the resistance changes as the coil matures, e.g. oxidation layers form limiting inter-coil shorts (particularly for compressed coils). Once it "settles", the coil may read as different by the rx200, thus causing it to error out back into wattage. Look back to my previous post for my attempt to reset this value once it settles.
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