Mine still reads 0.0S from a quick press before going to the main screen after not being used for 10 minutes or so. Is it possible you may have accidentally slipped it into Stealth mode?
WISMEC Reuleaux RX200 TC
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Mine still reads 0.0S from a quick press before going to the main screen after not being used for 10 minutes or so. Is it possible you may have accidentally slipped it into Stealth mode?
Mine does that too, but only after clicking twice with two 0.0S fire clicks.
First click the device is not showing anything.
If I long press fire in sleep, the device fires with no problems, wakes from sleep with no issues.
But after deep-sleep I can't seem to wake the device any longer with a <0.1S fire click without double clicking.
Maybe i will try downgrading the firmware or reflashing.
Stealth mode is off here.
If i imediattely wake the device after screen goes off, i can make a 0.0S fire press with no issues.
It's related to some hidden sleep timer of 5 mins or something longer.
Firmware problem 99.99%
First click the device is not showing anything.
If I long press fire in sleep, the device fires with no problems, wakes from sleep with no issues.
But after deep-sleep I can't seem to wake the device any longer with a <0.1S fire click without double clicking.
Maybe i will try downgrading the firmware or reflashing.
Stealth mode is off here.
If i imediattely wake the device after screen goes off, i can make a 0.0S fire press with no issues.
It's related to some hidden sleep timer of 5 mins or something longer.
Firmware problem 99.99%
Yup, mine too.
I believe it happened to some (not me) on the VTC after the 1.30/2.0 update as well.
I almost always, almost, wake a screen to check settings, before I hit it.
Must be some minor paranoia.
So it barely affects me, I just click a second time. But I can see it being a major annoyance for those who expect it to go bang after resting a few minutes. I don't recall what happened with our VTCs, so we'll just have to hope it gets addressed.
Actually, trying to check just now... it may fire, just not light the screen immediately. Not sure.
Oops... we cross posted a few.
I believe it happened to some (not me) on the VTC after the 1.30/2.0 update as well.
I almost always, almost, wake a screen to check settings, before I hit it.
Must be some minor paranoia.
So it barely affects me, I just click a second time. But I can see it being a major annoyance for those who expect it to go bang after resting a few minutes. I don't recall what happened with our VTCs, so we'll just have to hope it gets addressed.
Actually, trying to check just now... it may fire, just not light the screen immediately. Not sure.
Oops... we cross posted a few.
I tried that using the crown coils .25 in temp mode and never could get it right or close to what they are in wattage modeThe higher the TCR value, the more accurate the temp control... all things being equal.
So, in theory, Nickel over Titanium over Stainless.
Some prefer Ti over Ni, feel it's a cleaner flavor.
I'm mainly using SS because I can use either Power mode or TC, depending on mood.
The various NiFe types (Kanthal 52, 70 etc) are high in TCR and dual use, but not common (yet).
Haven't got my hands on any yet though, looking forward to trying some.
If you have the 0.25 and 0.5 factory heads for your Crown... they're SS wire. TC 'em.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk
Thanks guys, I did lower wattage and find 35-40 watts to be the sweet spot, at least on those coils Tfv4 Ti coils, I do hit temp control but only after a long pull. One more question, is Ni mode strictly for nickel, I only ask because I just discovered the SSocc head i picked up is the red gromment, which is actually nichrome, not nickel, i put it on Ni mode and tried to Nichrome coil and temp control seemed to work, how accurate it was is unknown to me. Also and tips on how to get this thing to recognize new coils, I changed atomizers and it's like it remembers exactly that is was on there before, but every now and then it's like new atomizer? I thought I knew everything about vaping, now temp control is a whole new science to me. Time to study
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From what I found when running Ni I had to fire it with no atty to get the new atty question!Thanks guys, I did lower wattage and find 35-40 watts to be the sweet spot, at least on those coils Tfv4 Ti coils, I do hit temp control but only after a long pull. One more question, is Ni mode strictly for nickel, I only ask because I just discovered the SSocc head i picked up is the red gromment, which is actually nichrome, not nickel, i put it on Ni mode and tried to Nichrome coil and temp control seemed to work, how accurate it was is unknown to me. Also and tips on how to get this thing to recognize new coils, I changed atomizers and it's like it remembers exactly that is was on there before, but every now and then it's like new atomizer? I thought I knew everything about vaping, now temp control is a whole new science to me. Time to study
Nichrome 80 is not sensitive enough for TC using tech at this time of writing, from what I've read -- have not tested myself yet. In one build example, the TC accuracy of Ti is 2295 (that's not a TCR value, but a "TC Precision" value). For Ni200 it's 598. For SS316L it's 684.
The same build with Nichrome 80 would be 126. Pretty low compared to 2295.
Not as low as Kanthal A1, which would be 4. So there is hope, but not much. It would have to be gold contacts at every point in the atomizer to pull it off, probably.
Also, even if the atomizer and Joyetech chip could do TC on that unresponsive a wire, the Ni200 TCR, 0.006 ("0600" on the RX200) would be way, way too high to work with Nichrome 80's very small TCR of 0.000112 ("0011"). So, if you want to try it, use "0011" as the TCR.
The reason it's working for you is because "0600" is so high (for Nichrome 80), it's putting the mod into wattage mode, essentially. The good wicking of your build is your "temp control" here.
The way to test would be try "0011" as the value and do a cotton burn test.
I'm curious myself. I'll be stunned if it can do it. Nichrome 80 is just so low in accuracy.
The same build with Nichrome 80 would be 126. Pretty low compared to 2295.
Not as low as Kanthal A1, which would be 4. So there is hope, but not much. It would have to be gold contacts at every point in the atomizer to pull it off, probably.
Also, even if the atomizer and Joyetech chip could do TC on that unresponsive a wire, the Ni200 TCR, 0.006 ("0600" on the RX200) would be way, way too high to work with Nichrome 80's very small TCR of 0.000112 ("0011"). So, if you want to try it, use "0011" as the TCR.
The reason it's working for you is because "0600" is so high (for Nichrome 80), it's putting the mod into wattage mode, essentially. The good wicking of your build is your "temp control" here.
The way to test would be try "0011" as the value and do a cotton burn test.
I'm curious myself. I'll be stunned if it can do it. Nichrome 80 is just so low in accuracy.
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I noticed today that after I put freshly charged batts in with the 3.0 update installed, they all read 4.20v
Oh OK so this isn't just me, then? I noticed this too, one battery ends up charging quicker than the others even though they're of course married and I'm still fully discharging mine every time. At first it seemed like it was the one in the front that goes positive-end up but now I'm not certain.
I have 6 brand new batts been fully charged twice now, they do seem to discharge and different rates, can't speak for if it's the 3.0 as I got it friday and immediately upgraded to 3.0 ( i found with the power off, hold fire and down for 10 or so seconds and it displays the voltage of all 3 batteries)
It should only take five (6?) seconds.
I haven't had mine terribly long, pre 1.08 though, but my first couple of passes through (both sets) showed some considerable variances between cells. Usually a spread of maybe 0.12v across the three.
Now, they all come out within 0.03v of one another.
I haven't had mine terribly long, pre 1.08 though, but my first couple of passes through (both sets) showed some considerable variances between cells. Usually a spread of maybe 0.12v across the three.
Now, they all come out within 0.03v of one another.
I was having a hard time visualizing how insensitive Nichrome 80 is compared to one of the best wires, Ti. So I ran some numbers, because I have no life. 
With Ti, it only takes 167 degrees F of change to create a .1 ohm change in resistance for the mod to read.
Small amount of temperature change, big amount of resistance change for mod to read = accuracy = good.
So let's visualize that .1 ohm range as a needle moving on a VU style meter. The .1 ohm would be the meter maxed all the way to the right. Ti maxes the meter with just a 167 degrees F rise.
To max the meter with Nichrome 80, it would take a 1486 degrees F rise in temp.
Kanthal A1 would need to rise 59867 degrees F.
With Ni200, 366 degrees F.
SS316L, a surprisingly small 330 degrees F rise to max the meter (this illustrates how SS is slightly more accurate than Ni200 once the base resistance is factored in).
These were based on a 28 gauge, 8 wrap, 2.5mm build for all wire types.
Also, based on this intuition. It does seem in the realm of possibility that Nichrome 80 might be able to do TC with an accurate mod and atomizer and some good smoothing algos. At least for dry hit protection maybe.
Need to look at that Kangertech thing, but if the atty even drifts by .01 ohms, it would result in the vape being off by 176 degrees F (in this example build). Sounds like a headache waiting to happen. We're gonna need a next generation of atomizers, I think.
With Ti, it only takes 167 degrees F of change to create a .1 ohm change in resistance for the mod to read.
Small amount of temperature change, big amount of resistance change for mod to read = accuracy = good.
So let's visualize that .1 ohm range as a needle moving on a VU style meter. The .1 ohm would be the meter maxed all the way to the right. Ti maxes the meter with just a 167 degrees F rise.
To max the meter with Nichrome 80, it would take a 1486 degrees F rise in temp.
Kanthal A1 would need to rise 59867 degrees F.
With Ni200, 366 degrees F.
SS316L, a surprisingly small 330 degrees F rise to max the meter (this illustrates how SS is slightly more accurate than Ni200 once the base resistance is factored in).
These were based on a 28 gauge, 8 wrap, 2.5mm build for all wire types.
Also, based on this intuition. It does seem in the realm of possibility that Nichrome 80 might be able to do TC with an accurate mod and atomizer and some good smoothing algos. At least for dry hit protection maybe.
Need to look at that Kangertech thing, but if the atty even drifts by .01 ohms, it would result in the vape being off by 176 degrees F (in this example build). Sounds like a headache waiting to happen. We're gonna need a next generation of atomizers, I think.
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ok quick question
aside from one guy on fb who is also a reviewer mike vapes
anyone else having issues on 3.0?
cause ive read not to do the update
because of yadah yadah yadah..
not sure it generally said not tc not working
which i got mine working just fine even on default profiles
aside from one guy on fb who is also a reviewer mike vapes
anyone else having issues on 3.0?
cause ive read not to do the update
because of yadah yadah yadah..
not sure it generally said not tc not working
which i got mine working just fine even on default profiles
I updated mine to 3.0 as soon as it came out and I've had no issues whatsoever. It's been working great for me.
I wonder if it's my charger, then? One battery always charges pretty significantly faster than the others, but checking the voltage on the device they're pretty close. Not that close though. With 3.0 I'm getting even bigger variance across cells than you did with 1.8 and they're all brand-new batteries (and good ones, of course, assuming they're authentic) that I've been fully charging and discharging with a good charger. It just doesn't make a whole ton of sense.
I think you guessed it near the end of your post: "assuming they are authentic".
Plus there are myriad variables that can affect your results, for example: My best tester (Fluke) has a DC volts error range of +/- .03v. My guess is most chargers and devices have even greater drift.
Is anyone else getting little bubbles in their paint? Had mine since Christmas starting to get bubbles! No big deal just happening a little sooner than I expected!
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