Xhaler - 801 Center Post Too Short for BE112's?

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Synthnadz

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Hey Syth! I'm having similar troubles. I REALLY thinking my 3.0 batteries are too short to make a connection - they wiggle quite a bit. I tried some 3.7 protected batts and they are a tight fit but will work. I don't want to burn my attys though w/ high volt.

Did you try 3.0 & 3.7's ?? Which wiggle for you?

I had a 901 atty on hand that I did get to work w/ the two 3.7's but not at all w/ 3.0's. I read the post above about connecting the BE112's and I did get it to work for a second but again only w/ two 3.7's. I can't get the 3.0's to work for NOTHING.

I will say that the design seems REALLY unique. The connections, the bottom cap to change voltage. I'm not freaking out that it isn't working yet (well I have my little chuck) but I KNOW that we'll get it sorted out! Others are vaping away happily.

You must share my bad damn luck - SORRY!!

SOoo, for those 801 users who do NOT use BE112's - What 801's do you use? Where do you get them?? I guess I want to know about 901's too? Which do you use, where do you buy?? I use the RN4075 901 that comes with mini screwdriver and the BE112 801's on my screwdriver classic and little chuck.

Anyone else have wiggly batteries??

I'm only running the 3.0 volt Tenergy rcr123a 750mah batteries, as I don't have any 3.7's to test. I just don't have any interest in 3.7v or 7+v vaping. ;-)

I *think* if I can somehow raise that spring I may be able to get my BE112's working. I'm pretty sure that my 801 adapter's center post doesn't have any pressure from below.

I spoke to Drew earlier, and he was trying to explain to me how I could 'screw' the spring to adjust its height, either by trying to twist it with a screwdriver from the top of the tube, or by accessing it from the bottom cap. However, when I dug into it afterwords, I couldn't do squat from above, and I wasn't 100% confident that Drew was suggesting I turn the hex screw from the bottom. So, i'm wondering if I should just try it. I'd just hate to mangle the button alignment or something in the process.

Then, beyond that, I'm a bit concerned that even if I can get my 112's to connnect they'll still have a blocked off airflow, since the adapter's post is so short. Seems like they need to be 'locked' on as it stands, which trashes the draw. In short, I think I need a tweaked adapter to get my 112's going.

Anyway, we'll get there, I think. Drew is awesome, and I have backups too fortunately. ;-)

Also, Drew doesn't have a BE112 to test with, so that's probably why he hasn't stepped in to offer a solution. I'm really starting to think that the primary issue here may the spring / loose 3.0v battery thing now. Anyone have any more thoughts on this?

Thanks All,

...D
 

breakfastchef

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If you have a lot of those BE112's, take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and remove the collar around the atomizer threads. Pick and bend at the 1mm that stands proud of the atomizer threads, Eventually, you will get a piece you can grab hold of and peel the collar off like those sardine cans with a key. The final result should look like this.

ringsremoved.jpg


Removing the collar may allow you to screw the BE112 down further. Also, since the air channels are molded into the atomizer connector, even if the BE112 is flush with the adapter, you will still get airflow. The atomizer won't be ruined unless you mangle the threaded adapter.

Yea, no one likes to be a guinea pig for this sort of thing, but if it works, you will be vaping tonight and Drew will have some much needed information.
 

Synthnadz

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Your problem does sound like the spring. Maybe some long needle nose pliers or a pair of forceps can reach in and strech that spring just a half inch or so.

It's unfortunate that I can't see very well down the tube (even with the bottom cap off), and that the spring is just out of reach when trying to use needlenose pliers or tweezers. Plus, I'm kind of afraid to get too aggressive down there. I'd hate to break it while fixing it. ;-)
 

laurel099

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I think we are onto something. I am feeling the battery fit is an issue and I'm not positive but I feel like that if we get the battery fit correct the BE112 MIGHT work without a hitch. I did the screw on, back off slightly and it seemed to work but I had no desire to vape at the ultra high 3.7x2 LOL! I can't get the 3.0's to work and they are clearly too short.

I compared to others as I have loads of 3.7's, the 3.0's are shorter than my 3.7's. Also the 3.0 Duracell was too short as well.

I wish I knew how to adjust the spring. I kept thinking earlier it has got to be something so darn simple! Not sure it would solve the BE112 issue but I'd love to try, plus I do have that 901 atty begging to be tried ;)
 

Synthnadz

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If you have a lot of those BE112's, take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and remove the collar around the atomizer threads. Pick and bend at the 1mm that stands proud of the atomizer threads, Eventually, you will get a piece you can grab hold of and peel the collar off like those sardine cans with a key. The final result should look like this.

ringsremoved.jpg


Removing the collar may allow you to screw the BE112 down further. Also, since the air channels are molded into the atomizer connector, even if the BE112 is flush with the adapter, you will still get airflow. The atomizer won't be ruined unless you mangle the threaded adapter.

Yea, no one likes to be a guinea pig for this sort of thing, but if it works, you will be vaping tonight and Drew will have some much needed information.

I removed the outer sleeve earlier today, and it didn't help. Still no connection, unfortunately. :-/
 

laurel099

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Thank you for that post Breakfast Chef...

I didn't realize there was a collar, the SS looks like one piece but I did look closer and can see where the collar begins.

Excuse me for sounding dim but... I've never had good luck when I try to rip things apart!! Do you twist the collar off or rip it off with brute strength?? Do I need my husband for this?? I have tools :D
 

invidregis

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The only other thing I can think of to test the spring is to take a small wad of tin foil, make a small disk about the diameter of a dime, and an eighth of an inch thick. Carfully place it on top of the top battery, with the same care place the adaptor on top, and screw on. That should send that pin all the way up. If this works, strech that spring.
 

andel11

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Thank you for that post Breakfast Chef...

I didn't realize there was a collar, the SS looks like one piece but I did look closer and can see where the collar begins.

Excuse me for sounding dim but... I've never had good luck when I try to rip things apart!! Do you twist the collar off or rip it off with brute strength?? Do I need my husband for this?? I have tools :D

Funny I never thought of that either looking at the BE112, and I too am not one that can tear things apart without ruin it.
 

breakfastchef

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Thank you for that post Breakfast Chef...

I didn't realize there was a collar, the SS looks like one piece but I did look closer and can see where the collar begins.

Excuse me for sounding dim but... I've never had good luck when I try to rip things apart!! Do you twist the collar off or rip it off with brute strength?? Do I need my husband for this?? I have tools :D

I only suggested this procedure as a test to help the OP diagnose the problem. Removing the collar can solve center contact issues and airflow issues with some connectors. It appears that Drew and invidregis are likely correct that, perhaps, this is an internal problem, and beyond my expertise.

To your question, you do not grasp the outside of the collar and try to twist it off. That never worked for me. I would tear off little pieces of the collar near the bottom until a large enough section of the mangled metal could be grasped by the pliers and gently roll the pliers like rolling up a rug on the floor. At some point, the collar gives way.
 

laurel099

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Experiments concluded:

I made the tin foil piece and tried it a couple times. I didn't even use the BE112, went for the 901 to see if that worked first. I did not get the atomizer to fire BUT... When I took out the batteries they were pretty warm especially considering I only tried a few puffs to test it. There was some electrical connection going on but not with the atty.

Then I decided to try the same with the BE112. Used another set of batteries completely cool. Without the foil disk - no battery heat, nothing. Added the foil disk and again the batteries got pretty warm after a couple tester puff. The atomizer did not fire up but the electrical connection was present.

I looked and am also not sure how to adjust the spring. I certainly don't want to break it trying to stretch the thing. I do think the spring is the problem, not sure if it helps the BE112 thing but if adjusted I bet the thing would work with the 901.
 

laurel099

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Okay, curiosity killed the cat and all. I made another foil piece, SMALLER!!

It worked with the 901 atty... WOW!! I finally got to puff-e-puff!! I then tried the 801 and it didn't work. I took it all back apart as I'm afraid to ruin anything but I'm excited... The puff on the 901 was pretty nice!! The juice tased REALLY flavorful :)

Thanks for all troubleshooting. I'm going to bed and hopefully tomorrow my luck will be better :D

The spring is definately one of my problems - I feel like progress has been made!!
 

jorge1845

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Hello everyone,

I found the solution to this problem it's spring.
If you take the bottom cap off and unscrew the allen range nut you can take off the button by pulling it slowly out.

Then you can pull the part where the spring is at.
pull on the spring to make it longer and put it back, and your problem should be solved.

And for the air flow on the BE112 just cut a small notch where the air holes are at grave a piece with the pliers and pull out that should give you a nice hole for the air flow.

I hope you guys and gals understand my English i know is not very good,

Hope this helps. Jorge
 
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