I've tried a couple builds on my goblin so far. I've settled on a 10 wrap 28gauge @ 2mm (~0.9). I did manage to fit a twisted 30g 2.4mm coil in there (pretty much the limit) but it seemed to block airflow and vaped way to hot for my preference. The sweet spot for me (at least with my current juice) with this build is 37watts. It can wick up to 50 (limit on my mod) with my current max vg juice. This rta wicks incredibly well. I don't take too much time/care wicking it but it does resemble what Trevor jones video shows.
Youde Goblin
- Thread starter dravell
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i should have my goblin tomorrow and after looking @ pics of the deck i was think it wouldn't be to hard to do vertical coils might even be easier. then pack a bunch cotton around the outside of the coils with bottom of the tank's chimney/bell housing section on instead of through the center of the coil and into the juice channels . making a vertical chimney coils. i don't think it would leak at all as long as there is enough cotton.
might even try with coils slightly spaced as i've always-ed like spaced coils better.
Vertical coils attempt number one.
I put in a dual 26 ga coil for .4 ohms. I wicked it by running a single strand of cotton over the positive block, and down through the coil, and split it into the juice chambers, no pic because I forgot.
It blocks airflow terribly this way. So, attempt one was a failure.
I'm going to try a different method now.
I put in a dual 26 ga coil for .4 ohms. I wicked it by running a single strand of cotton over the positive block, and down through the coil, and split it into the juice chambers, no pic because I forgot.
It blocks airflow terribly this way. So, attempt one was a failure.
I'm going to try a different method now.
Alright, here we are. I think I've got a good one here.
Thanks to the earlier poster who suggested an around the coil wick, I gave it a try.
First, look at all this space! These are 2mm coils, and there's room to play. I like that. (Sorry about the giant images, I'll likely fix that later.)
First, I cut some little tufts of cotton the length of the chimney.
I took these tufts, and placed them how I want them in the juice channel, along the coil.
Note, that step is a pain in the but. But if you place them, and then put a drop of juice bridging the coil and the cotton, it will hold it in place.
Then I screwed the chimney on, careful not to disturb the cotton.
Then, I wet the wick, and using a flat blade screwdriver, pushed the cotton against the coil, trying to cover as much of the outside of the coil as I could.
Put it together, and it's great. Dense flavorful vapor. The only thing restricting airflow here is going to be the coil diameter.
Hopefully this helps.
Thanks to the earlier poster who suggested an around the coil wick, I gave it a try.
First, look at all this space! These are 2mm coils, and there's room to play. I like that. (Sorry about the giant images, I'll likely fix that later.)
First, I cut some little tufts of cotton the length of the chimney.
I took these tufts, and placed them how I want them in the juice channel, along the coil.
Note, that step is a pain in the but. But if you place them, and then put a drop of juice bridging the coil and the cotton, it will hold it in place.
Then I screwed the chimney on, careful not to disturb the cotton.
Then, I wet the wick, and using a flat blade screwdriver, pushed the cotton against the coil, trying to cover as much of the outside of the coil as I could.
Put it together, and it's great. Dense flavorful vapor. The only thing restricting airflow here is going to be the coil diameter.
Hopefully this helps.
I can confirm UD's own 28 awg twisted wire at 2.5mm will work. It's tough to get in there but It doable. The hardest part is cutting the leads short enough so you can push the coils to nearly touching the deck. After messing with it for 20 minutes I finally got it so that it wouldn't short. Space is a hot commodity on this thing. Build came out to 0.4. Huge vapor, maybe a little less flavor than my regular 26 awg build I had in prior.
Alright, here we are. I think I've got a good one here.
Thanks to the earlier poster who suggested an around the coil wick, I gave it a try.
First, look at all this space! These are 2mm coils, and there's room to play. I like that. (Sorry about the giant images, I'll likely fix that later.)
First, I cut some little tufts of cotton the length of the chimney.
I took these tufts, and placed them how I want them in the juice channel, along the coil.
Note, that step is a pain in the but. But if you place them, and then put a drop of juice bridging the coil and the cotton, it will hold it in place.
Then I screwed the chimney on, careful not to disturb the cotton.
Then, I wet the wick, and using a flat blade screwdriver, pushed the cotton against the coil, trying to cover as much of the outside of the coil as I could.
Put it together, and it's great. Dense flavorful vapor. The only thing restricting airflow here is going to be the coil diameter.
Hopefully this helps.
Your welcome for the cotton stuffing idea.
your build looks bloody awesome.
i'm amped that the whole setup worked out and can't wait to try it when my goblin shows up later today.
some more ideas to go with would be:
idea 1.
getting cotton around the whole coil for more coil to cotton surface area:
maybe try wrapping the coil in a small amount of cotton before installing them. of course by doing that it be a pain to work out the hot spots and get them glowing evenly. but im thinking i/we( if you/anyone wanted to try it) could try pre-installing the coils. by pre-installing in mean install the coils work out the hots spots ect. then pull them out carfully, then they should be ready to install while being wrapped in cotton.
unless of course there is enough room to just pack some cotton where the gaps are.
i think im starting to over think this. lmao
i guess i'll find out soon enough.
idea 2.
more surface area by increasing the length of the coil.
from the looks of the build. it seem that there is enough room to make the coil long (maybe 12-14 wraps). then trap the leads under the screw heads of the positive post instead of in the post holes. granted the resistance of the coil would go up, but it would gain some more surface area to the cotton.
observation + idea.
you said it was hard to keep the cotton standing and in place. let throw my "idea 1" out the window for a sec.
take a length of cotton long enough to wrap, thick enough to fill the void between the coil and the chimney/bell housing of the tank, and wide enough to match the length of the coil . then simply use the that piece of cotton to bundle everything together. im thinking it would not only help keep all the standing cotton in place but also increase surface area of the cotton to the coil by filling void next bell housing. two for one
on the side question:
Whats the biggest ID you think would fit with using vertical coils?
I've managed a dual 25g. horiz. coil - 6 wraps at 2.5 mm. i/s diameter - .35 ohms. cutting the nubs very close to flush is definitely a must. Takes a little patience
I just tried Trevor's wicking method, did everything 100% like he and for me, somehow it doesnt work as well as my first build where I just cut the cotton normally and rammed it there, all over the deck and juice channels and sh**. Had better and more dense flavor with that way, lol. I guess sometimes simple (read: lucky) things work !? 
I ordered a Goblin from Mtbakervapor last Monday night. I got an e-mail from them the next day with two USPS tracking numbers, which I thought was odd. Today one of the numbers shows delivered and the other is still in transit scheduled for delivery tomorrow. I just got home to find a package with two 236ml bottle of unflavored (one straight VG and the other 36mg nicotine VG) and seven bottles of flavors and a packing slip with some poor shmoe's name from California. I immediately contacted Mt Baker and was told they will fix the order and that I can keep what was erroneously sent to me.
I feel bad for the poor guy that now has to wait longer for his stuff and I sure hope my Goblin arrives tomorrow...
I feel bad for the poor guy that now has to wait longer for his stuff and I sure hope my Goblin arrives tomorrow...
That's one thing I have noticed with MBV, if they make a mistake their great at sorting out the problem. I ordered some juices from them a few weeks back and they sent me the wrong bottle sizes. As soon as I contacted them they offered to send me out the right sizes bottles and they let me keep the ones they'd sent in error. Must have cost them a fair bit on the extra postage too. Great CS means I'll be a loyal Customer
Your welcome for the cotton stuffing idea.
your build looks bloody awesome.
i'm amped that the whole setup worked out and can't wait to try it when my goblin shows up later today.
some more ideas to go with would be:
idea 1.
getting cotton around the whole coil for more coil to cotton surface area:
maybe try wrapping the coil in a small amount of cotton before installing them. of course by doing that it be a pain to work out the hot spots and get them glowing evenly. but im thinking i/we( if you/anyone wanted to try it) could try pre-installing the coils. by pre-installing in mean install the coils work out the hots spots ect. then pull them out carfully, then they should be ready to install while being wrapped in cotton.
unless of course there is enough room to just pack some cotton where the gaps are.
i think im starting to over think this. lmao
i guess i'll find out soon enough.
idea 2.
more surface area by increasing the length of the coil.
from the looks of the build. it seem that there is enough room to make the coil long (maybe 12-14 wraps). then trap the leads under the screw heads of the positive post instead of in the post holes. granted the resistance of the coil would go up, but it would gain some more surface area to the cotton.
observation + idea.
you said it was hard to keep the cotton standing and in place. let throw my "idea 1" out the window for a sec.
take a length of cotton long enough to wrap, thick enough to fill the void between the coil and the chimney/bell housing of the tank, and wide enough to match the length of the coil . then simply use the that piece of cotton to bundle everything together. im thinking it would not only help keep all the standing cotton in place but also increase surface area of the cotton to the coil by filling void next bell housing. two for one
on the side question:
Whats the biggest ID you think would fit with using vertical coils?
2.5 mm on 26 gauge would work well. Might be tight, but it should fit. This is an 8 wrap coil, I think a longer coil would take a while to heat up, so I don't think I'd go too many more wraps. I like the length of these because it keeps airflow open.
You can definitely get cotton between the coil and block in this setup, and it would be a good idea. Something I'll do next time I wick it.That pic was taken before I really fine tuned it, on my final setup, there is cotton at least around the entire outside of the coil, just not behind the coil.
It was admittedly the first time I've build something like this, so I am still fine tuning a bit.
Talking about great customer service, I got a Smok BT50 from a local vendor in december and now it broke 2 weeks ago. I sent the device back to them, they also confirmed it was broken and the owner offered me _his own_ BT50 + 15€ gift card in return, or the new iStick50W + 40€ gift card. Now that's how you treat your customers right ! I've ordered stuff from there with over 500€ and I'm sure after this I will gladly spend another 500€
Edit: Tomorrow I will (hopefully) be a happy owner of the iStick 50W and Smok VCT I got with the 40€ gift card. Super !
Edit: Tomorrow I will (hopefully) be a happy owner of the iStick 50W and Smok VCT I got with the 40€ gift card. Super !
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I just took my mesh off to do cotton to see if I just got lucky my first go. I again, found the bit I used the first time. Roughly the size of the liquid channels. Tad smaller.
Did 8 wraps 26g, threaded the cotton through the coil, trimmed, pre soaked with liquid, placed and pressed lightly into channels, screwed on the chimney encountering zero resistance, then trimmed the extra cotton sticking out of the bottom. Vapes like a champ. Bubbles everywhere after taking a puff. No leaks, no dry hits...
Seems like everyone is over complicating things. Take advantage of the big channels....
Got my Goblin yesterday and I'm in heaven. Probably the best topper I've ever had. Well, besides the build quality.
Well, I've decided that despite the Goblin is an amazing device, RTAs just aren't for me. The delicate glass, and how finicky they are, I'm going back to drippers.
So, my two goblins are up for trade. Once I get verified, they'll be up on the classifieds.
So, my two goblins are up for trade. Once I get verified, they'll be up on the classifieds.
Exactly how I feel, my favorite RTA I own, and yet its cheap China junk, mine is crooked, machining is rough, etc.
What do you want to trade for?
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Has anyone had a trouble with the refill? I guess I wasn't paying attention to what I did the first few times but I can't seem to fill this thing with allowing air to escape at the same time. A syringe has been tried but the air is still pushing plenty of juice out while I fill it. And using a 30 mL drip bottle, it completely blocks any sort of air escaping which causes nothing but a mess and also causes wicking issues because air pockets and messed up vacuums. Any advice would be awesome. I saw someone post on exactly what I'm describing in the earlier pages on this thread but didn't see anyone chime on it. Thought I'd bring it back up.
I saw how RayLo filled it and mine will not do that. Lol. His juice falls right in the tank and he uses a glass dripper. Maybe he's using a very thin juice like a 50/50? - I can't stand a 50/50 so that's just not an option for me.
I saw how RayLo filled it and mine will not do that. Lol. His juice falls right in the tank and he uses a glass dripper. Maybe he's using a very thin juice like a 50/50? - I can't stand a 50/50 so that's just not an option for me.
Nvm. Figured it out. Just make sure your glass is really centered on those orange o-rings. It can block the fill passage since it's a really small space.
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