Youde Goblin

[MattyTny]

The Golbin needs to be wicked very carefully, when it is, it's a dry airway all the time.

First you need to take into account your coil diameter since that will determine the wicking density. If it's on the smaller end (<2.5mm) make sure you fluff the tails nice. I found the 7/64th drill bit makes a nice coil in the goblin.

Next you want to cut the tails very close to the deck, but not short where it doesn't pass over the deck. The next best thing is to trim all the edges of the wick slightly, you don't want too much material. Once you're trimmed like all the other videos on wicking see if the chimney base fits. The first few threads will show a little resistance, but it threads smoothly after. Take it back off and see if it pushed the wicks into the liquid channels. You want some wick in there, maybe a 1/4 or 1/2 way down. You also want to make sure your wick is clear of the air hole.

Another helping point to to tuck all the tail edges back into themselves slightly so you have no stray fibers coming off. I like to juice the coils once the chimney is on. Don't over saturate it before you put the tank on. That's not good either.

 

[Wolfenstark]

If your juice is ok for the first tank but gets a bad taste afterwards then lowering the wattage may help.
Currently at 26watts 0.35Ω , found some juices can start to singe if the watts are too high in the small chamber.

 

[UncleChuck]

If you wick it correctly it does not leak. It also does not leak through the fill port, no need for an o-ring, just fix the wicking.

I too thought it was just juice coming from the air ports but I did some careful testing and it's definitely coming from the fill hole, I left one sitting on top of an ego adapter so that the underside would be exposed so I could see what was going on, within about 10 minutes the previously dry screw hole was filled with liquid which then started running down the 510, where as the air ports and rest of the base were bone dry.

If It does start leaking usually backing the screw out and screwing it back down a few times will stop it, but next time that screw gets touched it's a gamble again. Whatever surfaces are sealing against each other don't always mate up perfectly apparently. Tolerances between parts will also mean that some will suffer worse and others less or not at all, I'd say count yourself lucky!

It's not a huge issue for me but it's definitely annoying. I tried using a trimmed down kayfun o-ring and it worked great for awhile, but it got chewed up within a couple days so I don't see that as being a permanent solution. Just seems incredibly lazy of UD, I can understand maybe they were trying to avoid the chewed up o-ring issue that some people have with kayfuns/orchids/etc but they should have figured out a better way to seal the tank than some roughly machined steel surfaces squishing against each other. This problem has already been solved before, they should have used a plastic screw like the kayfun's optional poly fill screw, as that would seal without the need for an o-ring.

I have a quick question about airflow, anyone else notice that when set completely open there is an odd intermittent turbulence in the draw? It will alternate between an incredibly smooth and silent draw and a much louder more turbulent draw. I thought it was maybe from too much coil/wick blocking off the airflow in the chamber, but I tried it without a build in place and it still does the same thing. Gets pretty damn annoying as the feel of the draw is dramatically different and it goes back and fourth like 10 times within the time it takes to have a puff.

It's a bit hard to describe, but for comparison if you make an o-shape with your mouth and inhale quickly but steadily it's silent and smooth. Now take your index finger and put it vertically across the center of your mouth and it becomes very loud and you can feel significant turbulence. Whatever going on inside my goblins is just like that, but without the obvious obstruction casing the difference. Maybe polishing all the air paths would help? Anyone else experiencing this issue?

 

[Wolfenstark]

I get sounds , seem to change depending on build and watts.
Air flow seems fine , just seems thats the sound it makes.

 

[doofy666]

I tried using a trimmed down kayfun o-ring and it worked great for awhile, but it got chewed up within a couple days so I don't see that as being a permanent solution.

My experience is that it is easy to chew up an oring by overtightening. But that an oring will last well if you only tighten until you feel it seal.

 

[ThunderDan]

I also top fill my goblin, so maybe that is why I have less problems with the fill port. If you don't dry it out completely it will leak I've noticed, so I just keep it dry and clean and top fill it.

 

[scooterholic]

I also top fill my goblin, so maybe that is why I have less problems with the fill port. If you don't dry it out completely it will leak I've noticed, so I just keep it dry and clean and top fill it.

Are you just carefully unscrewing the top cap wile making sure the glass doesn't move?

 

[ThunderDan]

Are you just carefully unscrewing the top cap wile making sure the glass doesn't move?

Yep. I just hold the glass down with one hand, unscrew and fill with the other hand. Its much faster than fiddling with the fill port, and I don't have to take it off my mod.

 

[scooterholic]

Yep. I just hold the glass down with one hand, unscrew and fill with the other hand. Its much faster than fiddling with the fill port, and I don't have to take it off my mod.

Thanks I'll have to try it.

 

[novice123]

Hi I came across this Wholesale Youde Goblin mini RTA Rebuildable Electronic Cigarette Atomizer (SILVER) | Everbuying

 

[RAWRferal]

Yeah for top filling just make sure you don't move the glass at all, otherwise you're gonna have a mess, been there lol.

 

[Johntodd]

The Goblin has burned. How to remove this permanent burned taste? I was thinking of a long soak in washing soda/borax/naptha soap.

 

[tehmidcap]

Does the goblin have peek insulator? I