I don't know if I can put an o ring on mine. My screw is the same size all the way through. The o ring would fall off.
Youde Goblin
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I don't know if I can put an o ring on mine. My screw is the same size all the way through. The o ring would fall off.
I got it from the spare parts bag from my old tobeco kfl, it was not really the correct size. As I tightened it the extra o-ring bit was shaved by the base of the goblin.
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Thanks Kitten...I assume it works better than cotton similar to any other atty?
How do you wick the tails....you wouldn't have a picture by any chance would you?
This is what I've been doing:
1. Cut wicks till they're flush with the deck's threads.
2. Fluff them up a bit by blowing on them.
3. Juice up the bottom 1/3rd of each tail then point them down and stick them about 1.5-2mm into the channel
4. Put the chimney base on.
5. Juice up the rest of the wick and gently guide it down and out like in Trevor's video.
No dry hits and no leaking when on it's side all night... only slight leaking from the fill hole screw.
I wouldn't cut the wick any longer than described... cuts off airflow a lot.
Sometimes it takes me 2-3x trying to get the right wick density in the coils. Too little or too much and I get dry hits.
Too much wick in the channel also leads to dry hits. I'm using 50/50 and have yet to put too little in the channel.
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To everyone who doesn't know where they are leaking from, do you happen to have the airflow any less than full open? I know I get splashes of juice in the bottom air holes because it pops off the coil, some of it lands through the big verticle air holes. If the air control ring is anything other than full open and completely dry than the splashes wick around under the air flow control ring and leak under the ring. It just makes a circle patern under the atty.
And I don't leak from my screw holes because I dry them very well. Liquid can't wick easily unless the threads and screw are already wet. So I refill, dry the screw, and dry the well and threads REALLY well. I learned this from many cheapy kayfuns....
It's much harder for liquid to pool and pull from the source when things are completely dry. So the extra time is worth it to me, but I hope this all helps someone, I have absolutely no issues with mine, .4 ohms 2mm ID 26 g at 40-45 watts.....using it two-three refills/day for one week so far. Version 1.2 or 2 or whatever it's called.
It's a very nice way to get rid of a lot of juice so I can purchase more good stuff lol.
And I don't leak from my screw holes because I dry them very well. Liquid can't wick easily unless the threads and screw are already wet. So I refill, dry the screw, and dry the well and threads REALLY well. I learned this from many cheapy kayfuns....
It's much harder for liquid to pool and pull from the source when things are completely dry. So the extra time is worth it to me, but I hope this all helps someone, I have absolutely no issues with mine, .4 ohms 2mm ID 26 g at 40-45 watts.....using it two-three refills/day for one week so far. Version 1.2 or 2 or whatever it's called.
It's a very nice way to get rid of a lot of juice so I can purchase more good stuff lol.
Thanks for the info, mine is still "Item Accepted" and I'm beginning to think there's something wrong with the shipment because they said the shipment usually takes 3-4 days to Finland and it has been 2 days since CTT received it and they havent done anything with it. Argh, I dont mind waiting for a week to get it but if something has happened and I wont receive it at all, I'm gonna be .......
Everyone check your goblin v2 because on many of them the vertical juice channel bore at bottom of threading and evap tube is far smaller than the originals theses happen to be 6600 series serial#'s
I guess UD was trying to make as many as possible before Chinese new years
Number on the bottom of mine is 4546
Heres a pic of a hole at the bottom. It looks like the bigger one from your pics.
Version 1.2
As you would expect with the size of the deck and with the chamber on it you do get a warm vape form a 26g 0.4Ω build.
Not sure how people that use ss drip tips are going.
Though the outside does not get as warm as my vertex dripper with the same build. Thicker walls on the goblin but a more enclosed space.
Not sure how people that use ss drip tips are going.
Though the outside does not get as warm as my vertex dripper with the same build. Thicker walls on the goblin but a more enclosed space.
Thanks for this, I will give it a shot. Been having leak problems on my fill screw lately.
I have been using the stock drip tip from a Orchid, the white POM with a thing metal wrap. My first build (posted here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rta/637657-youde-goblin-21.html ) was VERY hot, and I was using a stainless drip tip from a Stingray-X. I got lip burn from that hot build. Still waiting on a few 100% POM drip tips from FastTech ordered back in January (good ol FT) that I ordered immediately after the first test on the Goblin. I have since changed my build, but I would still not recommend a metal drip tip on this thing if you are going low-ohm.
I've been using either the SS tip from our Atlantis, which due to the wide bore seems to keep the vape cool. The SS tip from my kf4 clone works well too, a bit warmer and more flavor. I also have a transparent pom one that works nicely as well.
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I've been using a friction fit delrin wide bore from synervape. Honestly can't even imagine better airflow. A few bucks cheaper than cherryvapes when you include shipping, too.
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