Your preferred wattage.

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Diver9543

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Hello Jesse James, I have now reached my sweet spot. Or I should say my lazy spot. I have 2 kayfun Mini's (1 is my backup) and use 26ga SS316L 2.5 ID 7 wraps for .5Ω and I vape at 15W. If it is a new coil I will start at 13W and over the day raise it to 15W. Oh, my juice is DIY 5 mg/ml 60pg/40vg unflavored.
 

DaveP

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I've vaped 28ga SS316 for years now. I've had a roll of 26ga SS316 in the recoil box for a while. I just wrapped a 26ga, 9 wrap, 2.5mm coil that reads .61 ohms and wicked it up on my KF2 and it's vaping fine. It's compressed and dry burned and breaking in now. 15 watts seems to be the sweet spot for this coil due to the greater mass of the 26ga vs my 28ga coils.
 
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Topwater Elvis

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Even though I have tried boat loads of the variants it hasn't really changed much since I started vaping.
Usually in-between 10 - 16w.
Sometimes 18 - 24w.
Occasionally 26 - 44ish w.
Once & a while 46 - 78ish w.
Every now & then 80 - 124ish w.
Once or twice per year 126w or over.

Never 17w, 25w, 45w, 79w, or 125w...
 
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Str8vision

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Hey guys! I've been vaping for between 1 & 2 years now and I feel I've found my comfort zone. I always run a two-battery mod, .4 OHM coil and always between 50-60 watts. Is that a normal wattage or do you run higher or lower? I know it depends on the resistance etc... but I just want to see if I'm not alone in this kind of setup.
Thanks, JJ

Really it's all just a matter of personal preference, if you enjoy what you're doing keep doing it! A couple of years ago I was building 0.4 ohm dual coil setups but powered them at around 45 watts. These days I use two different "squonk" setups, one mod with dual coils (Ni80 triple fused Claptons) @0.18 ohms and 65 watts. Second mod with dual coils (Ni80 Alien Claptons) @0.15 ohms and 75 watts. I'm always experimenting with different wires and builds but so far these two setups are my favorites.
 

evan le'garde

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I've been making 1ohm coils with round kanthal for yonks now. Although, i don't need to !. A coil lasts for what seems like forever. So building is something I rarely do !.

I went through a learning curve to see what works best for the kind of vape i was looking for.

For strictly mouth to lung vaping using low power, at 11.5 watts, i'll only ever use 29g kanthal, 5 wraps, with a 2mm inner diameter. Absolutely no need to use anything else. 29g, through trial and error, is the correct thickness i need. I've tried various types and thicknesses. 29g is rigid and perfect for re-wicking whilst not becoming deformed. So much so that a coil lasts a very long time.

Anything thicker needs more power so batteries don't last, the vape is too warm !.
Less power with thicker wire means a coil takes too long to heat up (ramp up time).

Anything thinner and the coil will deform when i try to re-wick, so i end up having to build a new coil !.

Vaping doesn't work for me with anything other than 29g kanthal.

With several identical tanks in rotation, all with the same build there's no mess, no fuss !. A wick get switched out every day or two and will only take a few minutes.

My vaping style includes one 2 second primer draw immediately followed by a "second" 2 second draw which provides a throat hit. I've been vaping this same way for about 7 years.


I am currently using a Smoant "Charon" TS 218 box mod. I rotate several Svoemesto "Kayfun V4" RTA's.

All this is combined with 24mg D.I.Y e-liquids made 80ml at a time x ten different flavours. The costs are as minimal as they can be.



I simply cannot be bothered with high powered, dual or multi-coil direct lung vaping !. Too much effort goes into the inhale.

My style of mouth to lung vaping is effortless, and practically maintenance free !.

Vaping doesn't get any easier than this, and is no more complicated than using a pod system.

Alright !, but the difference is negligible, and a lot less expensive !.
 

Jesse James

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I did a similar poll last year.

How many watts do you vape at? (2018)



Depends upon the tank (and coils) I'm using.

Using an original Uwell Crown clearomizer with 0.5 ohm coils, 30 watts is generally my sweet spot. (recomended wattage range for this coil is 30 - 40 watts)

Using a Geekvape Cerberus clearomizer with 0.2 ohm coils, 16 - 20 watts is the range I like. (recommended wattage range for this coil is 40 - 80 watts)
I took a look at that poll and I'm seeing a lot of people under 20W. To be that low are those guys using rebuilds or high ohm prefabs?
 
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AttyPops

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Right now? 2.0 ohms (well, 1.98 ish), 12.3 watts, 30 ga wire. But it's just because I grabbed the 30 ga wire and re-worked a subtank head for fun and profit. That's 4.8 ish volts. Might be a bit hot; you made me look...now I might turn it down some.

Batteries last longer.
 

Falconeer

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I took a look at that poll and I'm seeing a lot of people under 20W. To be that low are those guys using rebuilds or high ohm prefabs?

Guilty as charged M'Lud! I run in the main 16 to 18 strength juice in 1.6 or 1.8 Ohm coils as I have done for coming up for four years, mainly with Nautilus Minis which is more or less what I started with, and which I run at 6.8 - 8 watts. With 0.75 coils in a GS Air I'll run them at 8 -10 watts.

Old style I know - but it works for me and so other than for experiments I've never found the need to change.

Each to his own I guess.
 

DaveP

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I took a look at that poll and I'm seeing a lot of people under 20W. To be that low are those guys using rebuilds or high ohm prefabs?

Those of us who vape at low wattage levels are using mouth to lung atomizers. MTL attys are generally small air port, low air flow, kind of like pulling a hit off a cigarette. 10W to 15W is a common power level. You get a slightly warm to very warm vape in that range with a MTL atty because the lower air flow doesn't cool the coil as much.

I do MTL with attys in the .5 to 1 ohm range. I wind my own coils to suit the atty I'm vaping. Lots of vapers use factory coils for the convenience of just replacing a coil when the vape goes South. It's more more expensive to use factory made coils, but doing so yields a high convenience factor over winding your own. I like the option of changing the coil diameter and number of wraps as well as using multiple atomizers with different flavor and vapor characteristics.
 
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Baditude

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I took a look at that poll and I'm seeing a lot of people under 20W. To be that low are those guys using rebuilds or high ohm prefabs?
Both. A lot of folks started out with beginner mouth-to-lung, low wattage, high ohm starter kits (cigalikes, ego's, kayfun-style rebuildable tanks) and never advanced up to direct lung, high wattage, sub-ohm setups.

Then you have beginners whose first vape device was a direct lung, high wattage, sub-ohm setup and they can't handle it and wonder why? They have chosen the wrong type of setup to begin vaping with, because they didn't understand the difference between vape setups.
Calling in all Vaporesso Luxe users. Please help

Everyone has their own preferences in what works for them. There is no "best way" to vape. This is why there is such a wide variety of products on the market.
 
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Rossum

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Example of some Kanthal coils.

26awg 2mm ID 5 wraps.
24awg 3mm ID 5 wraps
Clapton 24awg core x 36awg wrap 3mm ID 5 wraps.

All almost identical in resistance at approx. 0.5 ohms (plus or minus a tenth or so). But due to the mass of the coil, all require a vastly different power settings
It's not just the mass of a coil that determines its power requirement, but also its surface area. Mass to Power ratio determines how quickly it heats up, but Surface Area to Power determines how it performs once it has reached a steady state temperature.
 

Rossum

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A lot of folks started out with beginner mouth-to-lung, low wattage, high ohm starter kits (cigalikes, ego's, kayfun-style rebuildable tanks) and never advanced up to direct lung, high wattage, sub-ohm setups.
Why would you consider this an "advance"? Yes, DL high power setups were necessary for some people to quit, but I just don't see it as a sensible move for people who who were successful in getting off cigs using a tootle-puffing style to switch to a lung-buster style of vaping.
 

CMD-Ky

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It's not just the mass of a coil that determines its power requirement, but also its surface area. Mass to Power ratio determines how quickly it heats up, but Surface Area to Power determines how it performs once it has reached a steady state temperature.

Does this explain why I paid a lot of attention, a while back, to "heat flux" (a term that I have no clue what it means)? I found a heat flux number in the old version of Steam Engine and have built to it. Now, I just shoot for around 0.8 Ohms with Kanthal 26 gauge. Basically it is the same coil over and over.
 
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CMD-Ky

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Why would you consider this an "advance"? Yes, DL high power setups were necessary for some people to quit, but I just don't see it as a sensible move for people who who were successful in getting off cigs using a tootle-puffing style to switch to a lung-buster style of vaping.

Tootle puffer all the way.
 

evan le'garde

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Both. A lot of folks started out with beginner mouth-to-lung, low wattage, high ohm starter kits (cigalikes, ego's, kayfun-style rebuildable tanks) and never advanced up to direct lung, high wattage, sub-ohm setups.

I'm not sure if a "direct lung, high wattage, sub-ohm setup" is actually "advanced" anymore. It used to be !. When the only way to subohm vape was to build it was.

Now all the B & M and online vape stores are selling subohm kits ready to go. I think It was probably better back when the only way to subohm was to build it yourself because of the learning curve involved.

I'd imagine the vaping community is growing bigger with those who are quite literally taking up subohm vaping with their first device. The market is flooded with direct to lung subohm atomizers vastly out weighing mouth to lung atomizers.

There's nothing advanced about drop in mesh coils. Building a complicated multiple coil assembly and understanding a little about ohm's law is what i'd call advanced. The only advanced aspect these two completely different approaches have in common is battery safety.

I'm not sure if most new users even consider battery safety when buying their first device. :)
 

Punk In Drublic

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It's not just the mass of a coil that determines its power requirement, but also its surface area. Mass to Power ratio determines how quickly it heats up, but Surface Area to Power determines how it performs once it has reached a steady state temperature.

How does surface area determine the power requirement? 24 awg Ti will have the same surface area as 24 awg Kanthal should the coil be built to the same dimensions. But given it’s mass, and Specific Heat Capacity (which I neglected to mention for simplicity), it will require less power to achieve the same increase in temperature for the same duration of time.

24awg, 5 wraps around a 3mm ID, it takes Kanthal approx. 0.4 seconds to increase it’s temperature by 200°C at 20 watts. A Titanium coil of the same dimensions would only require 15 watts to achieve the same result.
 
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