Eleaf Lemo II

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ThunderDan

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Thank you. It's a little time consuming. But imo the tank performs better. I'm wondering if the deck on the Lemo 2 has as much room for builds of this nature as the Lemo. Guess I will soon find out.

Tapped from my LG G3

It is literally the exact same deck, chimney barrel and chimney as the OG lemo.
 

Podunk Steam

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I've been very happy with the performance of my Lemo2s so far and happier since my smaller gauge Ni200 came in.
Triple twisted 30 gauge was nice but quad twisted 32 gauge is better! The coil below is quad twisted 32 gauge wrapped on a 3.43mm mandrel with a Cellucotton wick that ranges well from 20 to almost 30J on the standard power setting at 320F to 375F using the SX350J. It sure seems the smaller gauge twisted wires bring out more of the sweet flavors in the fruity e-liquids!
IMG_20150505_202520_zpsizcbgsva.jpg

I've found that separating the strands of wire away from each other on the end away from the drill helps to make better twisted wires. Ni200 is really soft and I had four breaks at the drill end and one at the anchor point before completing about 8 feet of the quad twisted 32 gauge.
 

ShelaghDB

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Mar 9, 2015
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Quick Question please? I have seen it mentioned a few times now, in relation to this tank that people are not using 100% cotton wicks but rayon? Is this the norm as I am still new enough to rebuilding that I thought part of the deal of rebuilding WAS using 100% cotton since many claim to have it b ut its been a bit questioable on a couple, such as the Delta 2 pre-made coils.
So whats the reason for rayon with this tank please?

2nd question. Again still new enough that I use Kanathol (or whatever its called)....and i see people here as well talking about Ni200 which presumably is Nickel wire? Is this necessary? I dont need to buy new wire do I?
 

SaabFanatic

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Quick Question please? I have seen it mentioned a few times now, in relation to this tank that people are not using 100% cotton wicks but rayon? Is this the norm as I am still new enough to rebuilding that I thought part of the deal of rebuilding WAS using 100% cotton since many claim to have it b ut its been a bit questioable on a couple, such as the Delta 2 pre-made coils.
So whats the reason for rayon with this tank please?

2nd question. Again still new enough that I use Kanathol (or whatever its called)....and i see people here as well talking about Ni200 which presumably is Nickel wire? Is this necessary? I dont need to buy new wire do I?

Most common wicks are made using cotton. You can only use Ni200 if you have a temperature controlled device.
 

ShelaghDB

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Mar 9, 2015
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Ok, thank you. 1 last question.
Rayon, is that what I would have had when I used the old coils on the Natilus Mini pre-made coils, for instance?
I just wish to make sure its not that material as i didnt like it at all......
But I had read someone else stating they liked rayon for this tank and i am thinking of getting it so just wish to be clear on what was in those coils for if not rayon than i havent used it before.

ti.a.
 
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Highwayman1224

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I'm loving my Lemo 2! I own 4 originals, 2 regular & 2 drops and like this one better than the originals. Easy to fill, although the originals are extremely easy as well. I like how easy the airflow control works too. Hav en't used kanthal yet, only nickel. My .11 nickel coil on my sx mini m class with some 50/50 butter pecan from ITC vapes is outstanding!!
 

Juvecoop

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May 28, 2014
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I determined that my issue with my tank was my wicking. I met a guy yesterday who showed me how to wick it properly. He cut the wick about 1-2mm shy of the juice wells. I myself was cutting them lined up with the wells and then when primed the wick I'd push them up against the side wall of the deck. I guess keeping them a bit shy and shorter allow the juice to directly enter the centre of the coil more constantly without anytime. As with my last build it would be fine but after 2 lungs hits dry burn right after that. It's been wicking perfectly so far without any issues and the flavor is much better than before.
 

Grendel6.5

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I determined that my issue with my tank was my wicking. I met a guy yesterday who showed me how to wick it properly. He cut the wick about 1-2mm shy of the juice wells. I myself was cutting them lined up with the wells and then when primed the wick I'd push them up against the side wall of the deck. I guess keeping them a bit shy and shorter allow the juice to directly enter the centre of the coil more constantly without anytime. As with my last build it would be fine but after 2 lungs hits dry burn right after that. It's been wicking perfectly so far without any issues and the flavor is much better than before.
Glad to hear it.
 

Jdurand

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I determined that my issue with my tank was my wicking. I met a guy yesterday who showed me how to wick it properly. He cut the wick about 1-2mm shy of the juice wells. I myself was cutting them lined up with the wells and then when primed the wick I'd push them up against the side wall of the deck. I guess keeping them a bit shy and shorter allow the juice to directly enter the centre of the coil more constantly without anytime. As with my last build it would be fine but after 2 lungs hits dry burn right after that. It's been wicking perfectly so far without any issues and the flavor is much better than before.

Just to be clear, he cut the wicks (dry) so that they were 1-2 MM shy of touching the build deck when saturated ? What type of Juice do you use as far as PG/VG percentages? I am having huge issues with high VG (80/20). I know using high VG juice is just asking for issues, but I just don't get the vapor production I want from 50/50 juices anymore.
 

Juvecoop

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Just to be clear, he cut the wicks (dry) so that they were 1-2 MM shy of touching the build deck when saturated ? What type of Juice do you use as far as PG/VG percentages? I am having huge issues with high VG (80/20). I know using high VG juice is just asking for issues, but I just don't get the vapor production I want from 50/50 juices anymore.

Yes he cut the wick dry, 1-2 mm from the deck, then fluffed it up a bit and then put the juice on it to keep in place when putting on the chimney. i believe it was a 50/50 juice. the vapour is not like it was with a max vg base juice but the flavor is much better then I had it.
 
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Jdurand

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Another question on the Lemo 2. If you close off the airflow completely and draw on the drip tip, can you still get a small amount of airflow from somewhere? Mine does not seem to completely seal. I was thinking maybe this was causing a vacuum leak some place and causing my dry hitting/poor wicking issue. You have to try this with the tank empty and all assembled, otherwise you get the flood of the century!
 

Juvecoop

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May 28, 2014
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Another question on the Lemo 2. If you close off the airflow completely and draw on the drip tip, can you still get a small amount of airflow from somewhere? Mine does not seem to completely seal. I was thinking maybe this was causing a vacuum leak some place and causing my dry hitting/poor wicking issue. You have to try this with the tank empty and all assembled, otherwise you get the flood of the century!

LOL not too sure haven't tried that. it was something like the pancake wick, i've tried that one as well. the other thing that was mentioned was don't over tighten the tank as a tight chimney can cause air restriction as well as the gas will cut off the juice channels if to tight.
 

ThunderDan

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The airflow was fine for me. I left the setting to wide open on both the Lemo 1 and 2. I just can't get max VG juices to flow on either of them very well. I know the simple solution is to switch to a higher PG juice but I really like vapor. To me, it is almost as satisfying seeing the vapor cloud as it is getting the nic fix. I also don't really like the harshness of PG. Anyone using this tank with 70 percent VG or more and getting good results?

Another question on the Lemo 2. If you close off the airflow completely and draw on the drip tip, can you still get a small amount of airflow from somewhere? Mine does not seem to completely seal. I was thinking maybe this was causing a vacuum leak some place and causing my dry hitting/poor wicking issue. You have to try this with the tank empty and all assembled, otherwise you get the flood of the century!

Thought I'd reply only in this thread. Do you have a dremel? Using a dremel to make small notches in the evaporation chamber where the juice channels are will help wick really thick VG juices.

I didn't like the airflow enough to bother fixing the wicking issue.

As far as the seal goes, make sure you have all your o-rings in the proper position, I don't recall if mine was airtight, I don't think it was. Hopefully somebody else can chime in on that.
 

mesamay2003

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Another question on the Lemo 2. If you close off the airflow completely and draw on the drip tip, can you still get a small amount of airflow from somewhere? Mine does not seem to completely seal. I was thinking maybe this was causing a vacuum leak some place and causing my dry hitting/poor wicking issue. You have to try this with the tank empty and all assembled, otherwise you get the flood of the century!

Yes when assembled, with airflow closed, there should be no airflow when drawing...check your seals, and make sure you used the correct seal on top and in the base...
 
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