Serpent RTA by WOTOFO

[VaPreis]

Here's a dumb question. Is Kanthal SS?

Seeing as I'm no metallurgist, here's my layperson answer:

Kanthal heating wire and SS (Stainless Steel) heating wire are two different products. SS has become recently more popular because it can be used for temp control, whereas kanthal can not. I haven't tried SS myself yet, but my wife just informed me they got some in at her store.

I'll report back soon.

 

[VaPreis]

Received mine 2 days ago, already filled the tank 3 times.

The cons
I can't turn the AFC ring. Way too tight, using all open atm
Drinks like a champion, more then some of my dual coils rtas

Pros
Deck, really easy to work on
JFC system and the whole design of the tank is pretty cool

The good thing is i really expected leaking and I was kinda ready to see but after 2 days I couldn't make it leak at all.

This is hardly edited photo of my Serpent, early morning with espresso

Cool photo. Kind of looks like it might be your early morning Vodka tonic though....just sayin'

 

[tmcase]

Seeing as I'm no metallurgist, here's my layperson answer:

Kanthal heating wire and SS (Stainless Steel) heating wire are two different products. SS has become recently more popular because it can be used for temp control, whereas kanthal can not. I haven't tried SS myself yet, but my wife just informed me they got some in at her store.

I'll report back soon.

Makes sense.

 

[Leo Bak]

Kanthal wire can have several compositions, f.i. NiFe, CuNi, NiCr, FeCrAl, since it's a registered and protected Sandvik brand, not a type of wire. For vaping however most wire that consists of FeCrAl is sold as Kanthal, but isn't actually. It's even quite difficult to purchase real Kanthal wire. Most is fake and made in China. Kanthal probably produces a very small amount of all the FeCrAl wire sold worldwide. They do produce several wires themselves, A1 being the most popular in the vaping world: Resistance heating wire and resistance wire — Kanthal

 

[tmcase]

Kanthal wire can have several compositions, f.i. NiFe, CuNi, NiCr, FeCrAl, since it's a registered and protected Sandvik brand, not a type of wire. For vaping however most wire that consists of FeCrAl is sold as Kanthal, but isn't actually. It's even quite difficult to purchase real Kanthal wire. Most is fake and made in China. Kanthal probably produces a very small amount of all the FeCrAl wire sold worldwide. They do produce several wires themselves, A1 being the most popular in the vaping world: Resistance heating wire and resistance wire — Kanthal

Thank you for that explanation. Can you buy as wire on spools and how does it compare to kanthal for coils?

 

[ThunderDan]

Thank you for that explanation. Can you buy as wire on spools and how does it compare to kanthal for coils?

He was talking about kanthal.

 

[tmcase]

He was talking about kanthal.

Ok I guess I'm confused. There's kanthal wire and ss
wire. How do they compare for coils?

 

[ThunderDan]

Ok I guess I'm confused. There's kanthal wire and ss
wire. How do they compare for coils?

I've been using SS for the last couple months, pretty much exclusively. Making SS coils is just as easy as kanthal coils. Some prefer the flavor from SS coils vs kanthal. The reason I've been using SS coils is because it will work with modern temp control mods, but you can also use them in regular power mode on a mod.

In my stainless steel serpent I have a single SS316 24G 8 wrap spaced coil, 2.5mm ID, wicked with cotton. Its a nice vape, using it currently on my RX200 at 35W 480F using the SS preset.

 

[Leo Bak]

I'm also using SS316L for my Serpent atm, 26G -3mm ID - 6 wraps gives me a resistance of 0.45 Ohm. It's a very clean taste and you can use it for tc and vw.

Kanthal can only be used for vw-mode and has a higher resistance.

 

[Major911]

I'm also using SS316L for my Serpent atm, 26G -3mm ID - 6 wraps gives me a resistance of 0.45 Ohm. It's a very clean taste and you can use it for tc and vw.

Kanthal can only be used for vw-mode and has a higher resistance.

I use the same but a couple more wraps. I like the ability to go with either TC or wattage on the same coil. There's something about the SS just makes the flavor of my liquids taste better. Not as muted as with kanthal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tmcase]

Thanks guys. I'm going to give SS a try. I'm all about flavor. Vapor is just a bonus.

 

[Hsunu]

I definitely liked Serpent more then Bachelor.
Great flavor
Easy to fill
Deck is huge and easy to build
Mine never leaks
And much more handsome

 

[VaPreis]

I've been using SS for the last couple months, pretty much exclusively. Making SS coils is just as easy as kanthal coils. Some prefer the flavor from SS coils vs kanthal. The reason I've been using SS coils is because it will work with modern temp control mods, but you can also use them in regular power mode on a mod.

In my stainless steel serpent I have a single SS316 24G 8 wrap spaced coil, 2.5mm ID, wicked with cotton. Its a nice vape, using it currently on my RX200 at 35W 480F using the SS preset.

I was thinking about picking up a spool of SS to try out today for use on my RX200.

To be honest, I've been totally turned off of temp control using Ni200. Does SS perform more consistently with temp control?

 

[ThunderDan]

I was thinking about picking up a spool of SS to try out today for use on my RX200.

To be honest, I've been totally turned off of temp control using Ni200. Does SS perform more consistently with temp control?

I didn't like temp control with ni200 either. Had to use small wire, and it wasn't very sturdy for rewicking.

Not sure if I would say its more consistent, but its definitely more like vaping in wattage mode for me. I get a nice warm vape, that I could never really seem to achieve using ni200.

 

[Jerry88]

Sorry for running off topic. Does anyone tried using ss with dna40 under tc? If so what is the recommended setting?

 

[ThunderDan]

Sorry for running off topic. Does anyone tried using ss with dna40 under tc? If so what is the recommended setting?

Check out the wire wizard on steam engine:

Wire wizard

Put in a SS coil, temp desired, then click on 'equivalents' , the default is ni200 and it'll show you the temp to run it at.

I haven't tried it, but that is probably your best bet for trying it out.

 

[macis]

can anyone tell me what am i doing wrong? i've done my 1st build today, but after filling up the tank full, it leaked abt 1-2ml once i opened the AFC. i've already attached an o-ring on the deck.

btw before doing my build, i've tried filling up the tank with water to test if it'll leak, n it does despite securing the O-ring on the deck.

 

[mrjohs]

That was weird. With the o-ring in place, plus the juice flow control closed, it should not leak.

It has nothing to do with your build/wicking.

I would check:

a) Are you actually closing the JFC when you fill?
b) Do you burp it? (hold it upside down when opening the JFC after filling)

 

[macis]

That was weird. With the o-ring in place, plus the juice flow control closed, it should not leak.

It has nothing to do with your build/wicking.

I would check:

a) Are you actually closing the JFC when you fill?
b) Do you burp it? (hold it upside down when opening the JFC after filling)

a) i did close the JFC when filling. n immediately i can see drops of juice appearing to leaked thru the closed AFC.

b) nope, i didn't hold the tank upside down when opening the JFC after filling.

i was thinking if any of u who'd secure the O-ring tried filling up the tank with water without any cotton n coil attached? the water still managed to seeped pass the chimney n cause leakage on my tank.

 

[mrjohs]

I tried that, with different o-rings. With some of the o-rings, being too small, the water would seep through. If the o-ring has too narrow inner diameter, it will sit too tight and go straight across the juice channels leaving a hole there when the JFC is closed.

From the (blurry) picture it looks fine, but you might want to try with different o-rings. As I said in my post a few pages back I had luck with the o-ring from a Taifun chamber cap, but I do not know the exact dimensions of it.