You should have got a spare with it. But if you need another
http://www.vapourart.com/en/product/gpin-silver-plated-springs
http://www.vapourart.com/en/product/gpin-silver-plated-springs
GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP PAPS
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That sounds strange. To create a short with gpin it must be in contact with the tube through the base (negative side), and it sits in a Delrin insulator. It can not be enough that the spring is "crushed" inside the gpin!
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I will look and see if I have a spare one that came with it.
After sleeping on it, I agree I am not sure how the crushed spring would cause it to short.
After work I will look at it again.
-Jagellpuff
After sleeping on it, I agree I am not sure how the crushed spring would cause it to short.
After work I will look at it again.
-Jagellpuff
Morning. Anyone know how to get on the preorder list for the Paps 3 or is it too late? No buy it links on the site.
I'm pretty sure it's a done deal for now. If you hear otherwise let me know so I can sell my car. I can walk to work for a few more...
They don't have pre-order lists. Instead they will announce a VapourDay on the VapourArt site or from this thread http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...notifications-tips-tricks-updates-thread.html
They will also state what will be released on that particular VapourDay. They will continue to release the V3 and Heron you'll just have to keep an eye out for the next release.
Mystery solved with regards to my crushed spring and then the resulting short causing the button and batt to heat up.
When I initially put the GPin back together, I rushed thru it not paying attention.
I screwed the GPin housing to far in to the delrin insulator/retainer and it was protruding out the top of it, rather than recessed a little. Then when I screwed the assy into the top cap, the housing then came into contact with the 510 connection on the bottom. So when the button is pressed it shorted and heated up the button & batt. Not sure how I crushed the spring, maybe as a result of it compressed and the short it heated up and stayed crunched. But it was the housing contact that was the main issue.
Here are some pics of how the GPin housing needs to be slightly recessed. And when installed in the top, there should be a slight gap between the housing and 510 connection.
So a word of advice, take your time when assembling and pay attention! Don't rush like I did.
Thanks Perseas for a great product, love my Paps X and can't wait for Paps V3 to be in hand soon!
-Jagellpuff
When I initially put the GPin back together, I rushed thru it not paying attention.
I screwed the GPin housing to far in to the delrin insulator/retainer and it was protruding out the top of it, rather than recessed a little. Then when I screwed the assy into the top cap, the housing then came into contact with the 510 connection on the bottom. So when the button is pressed it shorted and heated up the button & batt. Not sure how I crushed the spring, maybe as a result of it compressed and the short it heated up and stayed crunched. But it was the housing contact that was the main issue.
Here are some pics of how the GPin housing needs to be slightly recessed. And when installed in the top, there should be a slight gap between the housing and 510 connection.
So a word of advice, take your time when assembling and pay attention! Don't rush like I did.
Thanks Perseas for a great product, love my Paps X and can't wait for Paps V3 to be in hand soon!
-Jagellpuff
Maybe poor conductivity caused a large arc from the GPin to the tube? That's all I can think of right now...
I had screwed GPin housing in and it made contact with 510 connection...dumb mistake by rushing. See pics in previous post as to the right way it should look with clearances.
-Jagellpuff
Mystery solved with regards to my crushed spring and then the resulting short causing the button and batt to heat up.
When I initially put the GPin back together, I rushed thru it not paying attention. I screwed the GPin housing to far in to the delrin insulator/retainer and it was protruding out the top of it, rather than recessed a little. Then when I screwed the assy into the top cap, the housing then came into contact with the 510 connection on the bottom. So when the button is pressed it shorted and heated up the button & batt. Not sure how I crushed the spring, maybe as a result of it compressed and the short it heated up and stayed crunched. But it was the housing contact that was the main issue.
Here are some pics of how the GPin housing needs to be slightly recessed. And when installed in the top, there should be a slight gap between the housing and 510 connection.
So a word of advice, take your time when assembling and pay attention! Don't rush like I did.
Thanks Perseas for a great product, love my Paps X and can't wait for Paps V3 to be in hand soon!
You didn't crush the spring, neither it resulted in a short.
You had shorted the connections by erroneous fitment. And the GPin's safety feature kicked in to save you and your device from further damage. Yes, the Spring inside the GPin "collapses" when there's a short somewhere in the system. That's the inherent safety feature by design. The GPin's spring did not short the system, which disabled you from vaping as you thought. It is the other way around.
Hi guys, so this may have been answered already, but I'm not finding the answer...
I just got my Paps v3, and it works 100% with the Heron, but I'm having issues when using the Gpin and AW 18490 batt...basically, I'm getting battery rattle.
It still fires, but I'm pretty sure it's not meant to do that...I tried other AW batteries, so I know it's not that...what do I need to do in order to solve this problem?
Thanks,
Lou
I just got my Paps v3, and it works 100% with the Heron, but I'm having issues when using the Gpin and AW 18490 batt...basically, I'm getting battery rattle.
It still fires, but I'm pretty sure it's not meant to do that...I tried other AW batteries, so I know it's not that...what do I need to do in order to solve this problem?
Thanks,
Lou
Hi Lou,
Inside your parcel, there is bag with spares and inside you'll find a longer positive pin for the GPin, it is designed for situations like this.
Hi Perseas, thanks for your answer, I just figured that out and was coming back to ask my second question
which is..now that I put the longer pin, it heats up immediately (the longer pin after just one short pull.) The atti is at .9ohm, so nothing crazy...am I doing something wrong?Thanks,
L
Ok..still awaiting more professional opinion, but here is my 2cents in case someone is reading...once you've changed the pin, make sure you tighten it as much as possible, and compress the pins (with your fingers)a few time to make sure they move up and down normally...I think that it's working like it was designed to now...thanks again,
L
L
I was going to say the same thing, I even thought of writing it in the first post, but under second thought I didn't, I thought it was too obvious ... but it wasn't
CONGRATULATIONS to all new owners of the Paps v3!
Guys, pls don't forget to register your Serial Numbers on the Google List:
Guys, pls don't forget to register your Serial Numbers on the Google List:
167 checking in. All I can say is whoa. I'm still speechless and just starring at it. Qorax is there a list for Heron serial numbers?
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