I only trim from the top or outside of the radius. Some have trimmed from the bottom and it works to but I always cut the top part off. So there is a snub between 1/4 - 3/8" as you can see in my previous pics.
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Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
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I only trim from the top or outside of the radius. Some have trimmed from the bottom and it works to but I always cut the top part off. So there is a snub between 1/4 - 3/8" as you can see in my previous pics.
OK, Got some pics of the Rose mod, first is the opened air hole in the base, as you can see the drill bit put a bulge in the thin metal between the air hole and the hole for the positive pin, I really pushed it to the limit and damn near broke through.
(Click on the pics to enlarge)
Before drilling,
After drilling, opened the hole another .006
Next I opened the air intake hole in the 510 bottom piece, this hole is a tad larger because I didn't want to mess with the slot in the air flow ring, this way more of the hole will be exposed to the slot when set wide open and be equal to the other hole in the base. After this was done and put together I noticed I could see the white delrin piece inside the base through the air hole. First I marked the base with a magic marker to locate where the air hole is when assembled. Once the 510 bottom was removed I knew where to cut the grove in the delrin giving the air flow a straight shot toward the center air hole.
(Continued in next post)
(Click on the pics to enlarge)
Before drilling,
After drilling, opened the hole another .006
Next I opened the air intake hole in the 510 bottom piece, this hole is a tad larger because I didn't want to mess with the slot in the air flow ring, this way more of the hole will be exposed to the slot when set wide open and be equal to the other hole in the base. After this was done and put together I noticed I could see the white delrin piece inside the base through the air hole. First I marked the base with a magic marker to locate where the air hole is when assembled. Once the 510 bottom was removed I knew where to cut the grove in the delrin giving the air flow a straight shot toward the center air hole.
(Continued in next post)
Without this groove air would come through the 510 base and have to pass around the delrin as outlined in this pic, now the air has a unrestricted straight shot to the center hole
View of the hole from the top
Before drilling
After
While I only opened the hole .006 it is an improvement, I can do slow lung pulls now where are before I could only do mouth draws. I didn't have time to build it yet, I'll report back later and let you know if I hurt the flavor any, I hope not!
View of the hole from the top
Before drilling
After
While I only opened the hole .006 it is an improvement, I can do slow lung pulls now where are before I could only do mouth draws. I didn't have time to build it yet, I'll report back later and let you know if I hurt the flavor any, I hope not!
awsum,
I don't know if I have ever had "Cobalt" bits or not but what Cindy and AMD are saying "Just use Cobalt" but like Great Chefs that tell you the recipe for some exotic dish always seem to leave out one or two magic ingredients (procedures) that make it work.
You are right. It is getting old. You could buy a drill press for $50.00 now-a-days.
I have found screwdrivers are much better than drill bits for wrapping coils. I have a Stanley 6 driver set that comes with 1.4, 2, 2.4 and 3 mm screwdrivers as well as two phillips head drivers that work great for tightening coil screws. It was only $4 at Walmart, too. 
I have a 2mm knitting needle. I can even use it for storing pre-mades. Essential since I use twisted 32g.
The problem is a $50 drill press doesn't go below, typically 500rpm, have terrible tolerances and runout and are under powered. I did find a benchtop that goes down to195rpm but it's $300 plus shipping. I'm having a hard time justifying that, especially with tax time coming up, LOL.
I didn't mean to imply the topic was getting old just that what a craftsman can do with a cobalt bit is not the same as what a doofous can do with the same tools.
BUT - I'd be almost willing to bet I can hold a hand drill as stable as a $50 Drill Press.
Ok maybe not but darn close.What we really need is a "Custom Vape Shop" you know you sketch something on a napkin and you send it off and it comes back properly machined. Come to think of it I saw a guy post a picture of a Squape he re-engineered and it looked really good... for the life of me I can't remember his name but I think his Avatar was some kind of four legged critter. Ah - it's OK it will come to me.
So I saw something rather astonishing and was able to catch a pic.
I pulled out my month old 180ml rayon wick. Rinsed the coil of juice. No visable gunk. Went to dry durn it.. Fired for just a second and let off inadvertantly. I saw the one leg start to glow. Looked back and saw glowing still but it wasn't firing.. The thin carbon on the coil had lit up and it burned its way all the way around d and down the coil.like the coil was a fuse. With no smoke.. It was pretty cool.
Coil after 180ml / coil fuse
The fuse was somewhat slow burning. Long enough to grab my phone after it already started... You can see that one coil lit up there. The coils to the left are like new shining to the right is about to light up... it was burning right along the coil like a fuse going around and around. But notice there is no smoke and there never is on rayon dry burns.
No comment about the fuse coil? I have never seen nor heard of it.. Anyone else?
I think its unique to rayons exceptionally low form of carbon build up.
I wasn't going to... but I guess I will.
I can confirm this phenomena. Had the exact same thing happen to me just a few days earlier.
620rpm at the lowest speed....and this from the guy who told me "low speed"! Jeesh, LOL. I thought you were working down under 300 or lower. Now you've got me thinking.
The web is your friend (sometimes)
Recommended Tool Speed Chart | AutoDrill
Recommended Tool Speed Chart | AutoDrill
I didn't mean to imply the topic was getting old just that what a craftsman can do with a cobalt bit is not the same as what a doofous can do with the same tools.
BUT - I'd be almost willing to bet I can hold a hand drill as stable as a $50 Drill Press.
What we really need is a "Custom Vape Shop" you know you sketch something on a napkin and you send it off and it comes back properly machined. Come to think of it I saw a guy post a picture of a Squape he re-engineered and it looked really good... for the life of me I can't remember his name but I think his Avatar was some kind of four legged critter. Ah - it's OK it will come to me.
I like your sense of humor, but what I have is 20 years old terrible bench-top Lathe/Mill combination made in China by Central Machinery.
If I only had what I see on the background of Tbev's custom Box Mods... Or, what I imagine is in BNEAT's tool and die making shop...
Look, I just eye-bole the speed of my drill press. It looks good enough to drill 2mm 3mm 4mm holes to me and I do it. I know, it is not very scientific approach, but my experience has never steered me wrong.
Yeah, but that 20 year old benchtop lathe/mill in the hands of an experienced machinist is light years and galaxies ahead of us "duffers" with a battery drill and a clamp.
Thanks for that speed reference chart, printed and bookmarked!
This is the drill press I was looking at -
Woodtek 162497, Machinery, Drill Presses, 13" Bench Top Drill Press, 16-Spd, 1/2hp, 1 Each - - Amazon.com
This is the drill press I was looking at -
Woodtek 162497, Machinery, Drill Presses, 13" Bench Top Drill Press, 16-Spd, 1/2hp, 1 Each - - Amazon.com
When I drilled the air holes in my Kayfun 4, I ran the HSS .073" drill bit at 1,700 RPMs, and I didn't push it hard at all. The fine curly chips that came out of those holes were way finer than your hair. (I would call that too slow, but when enlarging a hole, the drill isn't cutting in the middle, it's only cutting on the outer diameter, so a slower speed is perfectly fine) I also didn't use coolant/cutting oil, but that's probably not advisable.
That's my method 99% of the time, unless I'm programming a CNC
Use caution when consulting speed/feed charts: they're for perfect conditions, and that's rarely the case. We really don't know for sure what kind of metal our $30 Chinese tanks are made from, so slower is always advisable.
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