Looks like a nice one!Vap€art1;9639057 said:
Personally I didn't sand the delrin down I just replaced the screw with a m4 brass panhead, I have two different size screws for it one works great with some tanks but is short for others I could have had one that was big to account for both situations but then in 350 mode I was left with a battery rattle. Or a small gap. Hope this makes sense.
http://i1348.photobucket.com/albums...E6FEBF0-5873-000006957DD2A4AD_zps484cd0c1.jpg
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Oh dear.. looks like i did all the dont's.
Missed this thread while i was tip hunting.
Grinded down the magnet (by hand...very painful and time consuming) and now it is almost flush with the post... the bottom of thr switch doesn't come off on my 19.
Next step is try to drill the magnet in the hope it shatters...
I have the button of a smok telescope and it works in large mode. But the post is too short on that to work in 18350 mode.
Any tips on how to get this magnet off??
Missed this thread while i was tip hunting.
Grinded down the magnet (by hand...very painful and time consuming) and now it is almost flush with the post... the bottom of thr switch doesn't come off on my 19.
Next step is try to drill the magnet in the hope it shatters...
I have the button of a smok telescope and it works in large mode. But the post is too short on that to work in 18350 mode.
Any tips on how to get this magnet off??
Yup! It will take some heat applied right to the button. Sigelei has a very strong glue that use on some and seem to forget to use on others. It shouldn't take too much heat and then you should be able to unscrew the button from the rest of the assembly. You *need* to take that button off so you can THEN put heat to the magnet as I suggested in the first couple of pages. If you try this with the switch assembled you WILL melt the delrin cup. Heat the magnet up VERY hot and then dunk it in cold water. The magnet should pop right out... or might even shatter since you already ground down part of it.
We have a new "Budget Mechanical Mod" group and as a teaser I have full photos in it of how I completely replaced my factory delrin with parts from the local hardware store for about $1... AND it improved conductivity through the switch at the same time!
Must join the group though! (Click link at the bottom of this post)
Yup! It will take some heat applied right to the button. Sigelei has a very strong glue that use on some and seem to forget to use on others. It shouldn't take too much heat and then you should be able to unscrew the button from the rest of the assembly. You *need* to take that button off so you can THEN put heat to the magnet as I suggested in the first couple of pages. If you try this with the switch assembled you WILL melt the delrin cup. Heat the magnet up VERY hot and then dunk it in cold water. The magnet should pop right out... or might even shatter since you already ground down part of it.
We have a new "Budget Mechanical Mod" group and as a teaser I have full photos in it of how I completely replaced my factory delrin with parts from the local hardware store for about $1... AND it improved conductivity through the switch at the same time!
Must join the group though! (Click link at the bottom of this post)
Post the link im using an app on my phone and can't see the link at the bottom
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for your reply
Heat didnt work either.. i used a small torch but the button still holds in place..
I saw a photo in that big Sigelei thread (I think) of how a guy used a file or small cutting wheel to cut a groove through that magnet, giving it a sort of screwdriver head to help take it apart with.
Me personally? I'd keep trying heat. The button is stainless steel, the plunger is brass. They have different rates of expansion and if you heat them up and then cool them off very quickly (toss it into cold water) that glue in there will find it very difficult to keep up and will eventually give up instead. The real problem is how are you going to hold the magnet end firmly enough to work them loose? Being able to put a pair of pliers around both ends (one around the button and one around the magnet end) might help a lot.
Thanks guys.. tge slot trick would have worked if the button came out.
I am a very patient person...but this took me to the limit. Especially after ruining a drill bit at a hardware shop..the guy there tried to get it out but failed...so i was asked to go somewhere else!
Anyway..at least managed to take it apart with a lot of heat and a lotbof hammering. The delrin melted! Oh well!!! And i discoveted why they glued it on.. their threads dont match!
Dont know how to proceed now. Maybe try to fit some o rings for insulation..
I am a very patient person...but this took me to the limit. Especially after ruining a drill bit at a hardware shop..the guy there tried to get it out but failed...so i was asked to go somewhere else!
Anyway..at least managed to take it apart with a lot of heat and a lotbof hammering. The delrin melted! Oh well!!! And i discoveted why they glued it on.. their threads dont match!
Dont know how to proceed now. Maybe try to fit some o rings for insulation..
Thanks guys.. tge slot trick would have worked if the button came out.
I am a very patient person...but this took me to the limit. Especially after ruining a drill bit at a hardware shop..the guy there tried to get it out but failed...so i was asked to go somewhere else!
Anyway..at least managed to take it apart with a lot of heat and a lotbof hammering. The delrin melted! Oh well!!! And i discoveted why they glued it on.. their threads dont match!
Dont know how to proceed now. Maybe try to fit some o rings for insulation..
If they will let you back in the hardware store you can completely replace the melted delrin with about $1 worth of parts. See the #19 thread in the social group
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/groups/budget-mechanical-mods.html
If they will let you back in the hardware store you can completely replace the melted delrin with about $1 worth of parts. See the #19 thread in the social group
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/groups/budget-mechanical-mods.html
Sorry to keep asking, but why can't I view the new group in tapatalk, or I just can't seem to find it
Looks like sigelei have ditched the magnets in the #19
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...h-mod-20v2-33-95-19-31-95-richman-vapors.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...h-mod-20v2-33-95-19-31-95-richman-vapors.html
This is what I did to my sigelei 19 and for now it's working great. No misfires, not hot buton. put 2 o-rings (from driptips) on the brass pole in the buton
Just a voltage drop of around 0.5 volts. Maybe something like noalox will help?
Just a voltage drop of around 0.5 volts. Maybe something like noalox will help?
HaHa I haven't even received my 19 preorder yet and it's already obsolete, and given it sounds like you need to own a hardware store to mod it, it's probably going to sit on the shelf when it arrives....where I live in Mexico it's hard to find parts and shipping online is $10 just for a brass screw, lol....
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Ok..for us who messed up our delrin cup, take the cup pf a juice bottle.. the inside part fits well with some grinding. Now must find a way to secure it as it doesnt thread. But tge weight of the battery should be nough to hold it down when pressing the button.
I dont see this newer version being that much of an improvement. From the picture, the switch still has the magnet. It looks like they just added a spring to the top cap positive post. I get why they did it...but that spring would be the first thing I would take out of the mod. IMO
I'm not sure as I don't use the app. But you might try asking in the forum forum
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Alright, as not everyone can access the group I'll share what I've done about replacing the delrin cup here too
I tried two different methods of replacing it, one using part of a juice bottle cap and one using part of a plastic "snap in" plug of the same size. Both work well... most hardware stores have the plastic bit, and the two metal pieces you are going to need, for about $1 total.
From left to right that is the factory delrin piece, the intact plastic snap grommet thingy and a modified piece of a juice bottle cap:
The "lip" on any of the three is to isolate the bottom of the battery from the metal of the switch. A perfectly sized plastic washer would also work but I could not find any. The threads and or unthreaded part are just there to help hold the brass shaft centered while screwing on the button itself. They also help keep the "lip" part from getting lost when you unscrew it to replace a battery. Here you can see that "snap in" part as fitted to the switch housing. The juice cap fits the same way, with a little grinding:
I used a razor blade to cut off the bottom section since all we need is the top part, with the "lip". I DID clean it up some and had to trim off a plastic seam on the inside so the brass plunger would slide nicely but all in all it only took a few minutes with an exacto knife and it was done:
But then what about the "bottom" of that delrin cup? This is used to both give the spring something to push against as well as to hold the brass plunger "up" while engaging the locking mechanism. If you use just the plastic bit that I've shown the spring won't work and the turning the lock will just unscrew the entire switch assembly. I found this brass washer in the plumbing department and surprisingly there is a gap between the top of the lock and the base that it screws into just the right size for such a thing:
A snap ring under the washer also fits and keeps the switch from unscrewing completely apart when the lock is used:
Finished and works better than when it was new
I tried two different methods of replacing it, one using part of a juice bottle cap and one using part of a plastic "snap in" plug of the same size. Both work well... most hardware stores have the plastic bit, and the two metal pieces you are going to need, for about $1 total.
From left to right that is the factory delrin piece, the intact plastic snap grommet thingy and a modified piece of a juice bottle cap:
The "lip" on any of the three is to isolate the bottom of the battery from the metal of the switch. A perfectly sized plastic washer would also work but I could not find any. The threads and or unthreaded part are just there to help hold the brass shaft centered while screwing on the button itself. They also help keep the "lip" part from getting lost when you unscrew it to replace a battery. Here you can see that "snap in" part as fitted to the switch housing. The juice cap fits the same way, with a little grinding:
I used a razor blade to cut off the bottom section since all we need is the top part, with the "lip". I DID clean it up some and had to trim off a plastic seam on the inside so the brass plunger would slide nicely but all in all it only took a few minutes with an exacto knife and it was done:
But then what about the "bottom" of that delrin cup? This is used to both give the spring something to push against as well as to hold the brass plunger "up" while engaging the locking mechanism. If you use just the plastic bit that I've shown the spring won't work and the turning the lock will just unscrew the entire switch assembly. I found this brass washer in the plumbing department and surprisingly there is a gap between the top of the lock and the base that it screws into just the right size for such a thing:
A snap ring under the washer also fits and keeps the switch from unscrewing completely apart when the lock is used:
Finished and works better than when it was new
I do as I wouldn't need to keep changing the 510 brass screw to combat battery rattle, or swapping from flat top to nipple top in 18350 mode, the spring would take care of that, I think its a brill idea
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