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Quick1

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WHERE can i go buy a multimeter. ill go get one .

OK i got a multimeter, now if someone would have the decency to tell me how to test these. thanks in advance.

Set your multimeter to "ohms". It will be that Omega symbol.
Positive probe to the center contact on the cartomizer connector, Negative probe to the threads.

Before you start, set to "ohms" and touch the meter probes together. It should read zero ohms. If it reads some positive value for ohms then just subtract that from your readings when measuring the cartomizer.

For example, touch the probes together and the multimeter reads 0.2 ohms. Check the cartomizer and it reads 3.6 ohms. 3.6 - 0.2 = 3.4 ohms for the cartomizer.
 

badkolo

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Set your multimeter to "ohms". It will be that Omega symbol.
Positive probe to the center contact on the cartomizer connector, Negative probe to the threads.

Before you start, set to "ohms" and touch the meter probes together. It should read zero ohms. If it reads some positive value for ohms then just subtract that from your readings when measuring the cartomizer.

For example, touch the probes together and the multimeter reads 0.2 ohms. Check the cartomizer and it reads 3.6 ohms. 3.6 - 0.2 = 3.4 ohms for the cartomizer.

ok this is the one i have, i see the omega symbol but that doesnt tell me much since that section has many choices, heres the pic of the meter.normaly my brother would test things for me but hes gone for the summer. if you can guide me where to turn the dial then i got the rest lol
 
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Quick1

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ok this is the one i have, i see the omega symbol but that doesnt tell me much since that section has many choices, heres the pic of the meter.normaly my brother would test things for me but hes gone for the summer. if you can guide me where to turn the dial then i got the rest lol

Try the smallest setting. I can't quite see it but is it "200"?
You're expecting something between 0 and 5 ohms. So that is just the setting for the meter scale.
 

badkolo

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turn it to 200

when i turn it to 200 to the 7 oclock postion in the yellow section of the omega it read like this ( 1 .) then when i touch them together it reads 00.0, when i place one contact on the outer thread and one in the hole or around the whole the reading jumps then falls back to 00.0

i got it, i got it. i was at 200k not 200,
 
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Quick1

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oo.3 when i touch them together, then the actual test is at 3.0

Then that would be 2.7 ohms for the cartomizer.

3.0 reading - 0.3 for the probes = 2.7 for the carto.

When measuring ohms you should wait at least 5 seconds to see if the reading holds constant. The way the resistance is measured is that the meter passes a very small current through the circuit and measures the difference and calculates the resistance. It usually is within a tenth immediately and then "settles in". It can take a few seconds for the meter to get a stable reading.

On the website they have the 3.3v cartomizers listed as 2.6 ohms for 3.3v
and the ones for 3.7 as being 3.0 - 3.4 ohms?

So far, with all my atomizers and cartomizers of different styles and mfgs I've often seen +/- 0.2 ohms. Due to manufacturing I suspect and probably mostly due to the solder joints.
 
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badkolo

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Then that would be 2.7 ohms for the cartomizer.

3.0 reading - 0.3 for the probes = 2.7 for the carto.

When measuring ohms you should wait at least 5 seconds to see if the reading holds constant. The way the resistance is measured is that the meter passes a very small current through the circuit and measures the difference and calculates the resistance. It usually is within a tenth immediately and then "settles in". It can take a few seconds for the meter to get a stable reading.

thank you very much for the help quick and others, yes i redid it and followed what you said and those are the readings, i will test more after dinner when i get back to playing with the cartos.
 

badkolo

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Looking forward to trying these in a while. I've got one of the original set from V4L, just puffing a couple times a minute it really is neat.

mark, if oyu read back a few pages you can see what can be done to the wick to fluff it and see if that helps, also does yours have slits where the wick is on each side.
 

MusicBox

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Feb 21, 2010
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Here's my experience for what it's worth:

I have had these E2s for just over a week. They are 510 unfilled.
I normally only ever use 100% VG.

OK, first up, filling these with VG through a needle ain't gonna happen. (It would be easier for a camel to pass through)

So I dismantled one and put some VG in, attached it to my Riva... diddley squat.
Try on an Indulgence 3.7v... Nothing.
Measure with a multimeter... 2.6 ohms. Obviously not dead.
Do the same to 3 others.
Repeat until I throw them in a corner and wish I had spent the money elsewhere.
Follow this thread and get annoyed that others are getting at least something out of them.
Pull them out occasionally and try again... still nothing.
Find a standard 510 battery in my box '0' stuff.
Fill an E2 with PG (yeurgh)
Bang, clouds of vapour, no burnt taste and better flavour than using the same juice on an atty. I also have been dragging on it fairly heavily and had no problems with wicking.

So, my Riva and my Indulgence won't play ball. Obviously they aren't contacting. Haven't had a problem with any other attys or cartos. Does anyone have a fix?

If I can get it to play with my Riva AND if I can get it to use VG (without a lengthy refill process) then I will buy a heap of these. They are producing better vapour than a LR atty on 3.7v but not quite as good as the 6v experience.
At this stage the E2s have a much cleaner taste and better flavour.

PS. just tried it on my 3.7v box mod (don't know why I didn't try it earlier) and it works a treat. I am just dripping my beloved VG into the carto with inner and outer caps removed and getting a lot more flavour out of it than an atty.
 

naviathan

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May 24, 2010
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Here's my experience for what it's worth:

I have had these E2s for just over a week. They are 510 unfilled.
I normally only ever use 100% VG.

OK, first up, filling these with VG through a needle ain't gonna happen. (It would be easier for a camel to pass through)

So I dismantled one and put some VG in, attached it to my Riva... diddley squat.
Try on an Indulgence 3.7v... Nothing.
Measure with a multimeter... 2.6 ohms. Obviously not dead.
Do the same to 3 others.
Repeat until I throw them in a corner and wish I had spent the money elsewhere.
Follow this thread and get annoyed that others are getting at least something out of them.
Pull them out occasionally and try again... still nothing.
Find a standard 510 battery in my box '0' stuff.
Fill an E2 with PG (yeurgh)
Bang, clouds of vapour, no burnt taste and better flavour than using the same juice on an atty. I also have been dragging on it fairly heavily and had no problems with wicking.

So, my Riva and my Indulgence won't play ball. Obviously they aren't contacting. Haven't had a problem with any other attys or cartos. Does anyone have a fix?

If I can get it to play with my Riva AND if I can get it to use VG (without a lengthy refill process) then I will buy a heap of these. They are producing better vapour than a LR atty on 3.7v but not quite as good as the 6v experience.
At this stage the E2s have a much cleaner taste and better flavour.

PS. just tried it on my 3.7v box mod (don't know why I didn't try it earlier) and it works a treat. I am just dripping my beloved VG into the carto with inner and outer caps removed and getting a lot more flavour out of it than an atty.

If you have any modding abilities you can try loosening the coil loops with a dental pick or something small. Loosening the wick itself between the coils and at the ends should help too. If the version you have has holes in the ceramic cup that the wick runs through, use a dremel or similar tool to grind a slot the unbound width of the wick from the top of the hole up to release any pressure that pinch point is creating. Those mods should make these carts wick VG and vape like mad.
 
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