I just wanna say I got 2 pack from the same place they where bad, he sent me 2 more packs, they where bad as well. Might be something going on here with the lot of CE2's the man got
E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion
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Now after some more testing with different voltages these things are vaping absolutely best at 3.45V seems to be the magic number, it is actually quite amazing just what the difference is if you stray up or down from that number to, not as good in either direction. This tells me that 510's are made for this voltage and nothing else. I would almost be willing to bet that KR8 are best @ 4.2. I'm thinking these guys definitely set these to be best at what the standard Batts put out. My XL's are vaping blissfully now on to my regular size CE2 R4's to see what they are like
Heres my new BADKOLO C-E2 R4 review, tips and Help page
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-review-tips-info-help-video.html#post2023123
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-review-tips-info-help-video.html#post2023123
I've got a few r3's left... Anyone feel like parting with a few packs of r4's? I'm worried that if i order from a US supplier i might get stuck with old r3 stock...
A couple days ago I posted the following:
Last night I pulled this thing out of the junk pile and removed its guts out of the tube. I found that the wicks were too short to reach the bottom of the reservoir. This is what it looked like:
Then I got to thinking about it and decided to make a br-bastomizer out of it. I did this by cutting a 3/4"X3/4" piece of filler out of an old cartomizer and wrapping it around the bottom of the wicks. This puts the filler all the way down to the bottom of the reservoir. Then I put it all back inside the tube and filled it up.
I didn't expect it to hold as much juice as before, but it did. However, it did not hold quite as much for a refill. Evidently, the strip of filler is holding a small amount of juice that the wick cannot pick up.
The trade off is worthwhile. Now I have an R4 that works just as good as the other KR8 that I have been testing. Not only that, but it will empty the reservoir while vaping in a vertical position, whereas the other one does not. Now I know what to do with any other E2's that will not vape the reservoir dry. Maybe this is why the people in China did the same thing with the R3.75.
Last night I pulled this thing out of the junk pile and removed its guts out of the tube. I found that the wicks were too short to reach the bottom of the reservoir. This is what it looked like:
Then I got to thinking about it and decided to make a br-bastomizer out of it. I did this by cutting a 3/4"X3/4" piece of filler out of an old cartomizer and wrapping it around the bottom of the wicks. This puts the filler all the way down to the bottom of the reservoir. Then I put it all back inside the tube and filled it up.
I didn't expect it to hold as much juice as before, but it did. However, it did not hold quite as much for a refill. Evidently, the strip of filler is holding a small amount of juice that the wick cannot pick up.
The trade off is worthwhile. Now I have an R4 that works just as good as the other KR8 that I have been testing. Not only that, but it will empty the reservoir while vaping in a vertical position, whereas the other one does not. Now I know what to do with any other E2's that will not vape the reservoir dry. Maybe this is why the people in China did the same thing with the R3.75.
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It seems like either way, the wick (if it were longer), or the filler (added on), will keep the last of the liquid for itself and not let the coil have it.
Bad, what ever happened to the tubes, are they worth buying and taking them out of the cartos,
so that they can be used instead of ptb? I remember you said they wicked real good, and it
sounds like they're easier to work with and they're already made when you get them?
Bad, what ever happened to the tubes, are they worth buying and taking them out of the cartos,
so that they can be used instead of ptb? I remember you said they wicked real good, and it
sounds like they're easier to work with and they're already made when you get them?
yes they work but becuase they are not attainable to everyone i just let it die, it was easy to use but to be honest so is the ptb mod, since the r4 has the new sleeve you dont need to fold the ptb much so now its a quick process.
I have 10 packs of Black 510 XL's R4's 5= 3-3.2ohm,,,, 5= 2.4-6 ohm on classifieds for sale cheap guys already sold the first group of ten.... 10packs for cheap cheap PM me if anyone is interested in these
Ahh, the 'bro mod' resurfaces
I never did check my KR Premium cartos to see if they have that woven tube. I know regular KR's have the cardboard tube... Thanks for the reminder 'v1'.
I am not aware of another option then 2.4-2.6 or 3.0-3.2 ohm, is there one.??? please let me know
You sentimental thing you
Yeah, seems like these were the Good Old Days. Where everything was New and People were coming up with Ideas Left and Right. Sort of miss all the Creativatity in a way.
I'm with you Br.
I've tried most of the New Stuff but it's hard to Beat a CE2 in my Mind.
Been doing any Turning Lately or other Projects?
Like you, I've tried some of the new stuff, mostly the CE2 clones. Some of them have a pretty good potential for most folks, but I still prefer to roll my own.
Yeah, I turn the lathe on when I get the chance. Although I'm becoming more handicapped all along, I still manage to turn out a new one every now and then. I'm still experimenting with the air flow through these things and still learning a bit from time to time.
Also, I've increased the cup size even more here lately, which allows more space between the coil turns. If the coil resistance is low enough, it looks more like a spiral. If the coil is burned off within a reasonable length of time, the crud does not bridge over between the turns and only a small amount of ash is left on the wire.
One of the reasons why the coil turns are less is because the later versions have two fat wicks, thus increasing their diameter. But then, that's not the reason for using two of them. Most of these wicks work well enough, but a few of them are absolutely awful. In order to get good results with all new builds or rebuilds, two of them always work every time. Actually, one of them does not need to be full length, and I usually use half of an old used wick for the second one.
I don't have any photos of my later ones yet, but here is a recent build for a Vison TOX battery from GotVapes.
First the drawing:
And then a shot from my fuzzy old camera of the real thing:
Notice that the air intake holes are in the side. There is more than one reason why they are there, but one advantage is that no juice can get inside the battery battery fitting. This also allows the skirt to screw down on the battery head with no gap. There ain't no Shinola inside my battery, heheh.
This one doesn't have a blue LED inside, but my latest one for a SUN 1200 mAh battery does. It has the same diameter as the battery, which is also a perfect match for the E-Power battery.
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