No big secret, just look at those big channels between the twisted strands, just like when you cut grooves in a ceramic wick, it facilitates gravitational flow when you tilt.
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No big secret, just look at those big channels between the twisted strands, just like when you cut grooves in a ceramic wick, it facilitates gravitational flow when you tilt.
@emonty, hello my friend, glad it works for you. I could not get cable to wick enough to even keep a flame going on my mini kerosene lamps. Left a wick overnight vertical in 2 inches of VG and got very little capillary action. Since my normal vaping position is with my elbow on an arm rest, very little tilt angle, just couldn't get it to work for me. But no problem the SS cable makes good hook leaders for shark fishing.
Yes, I tilt it @ 3 o`clock otherwise it does not wick. Not true capillary, agree but for my vaping style it does the job well.
Hope to come to your island one day, will go fishing with you!!!
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Here's a little video of Todd setting up a cable wick. You can see he's doing an extended vertical burn once he's got it set up.
My 30g Kanthal from TEMco shipped today.
Got 100' on the way now. It only took a
couple of days, where I thought I might
be waiting much longer.
My SS Mesh came in yesterday, so my
complete order will be here very soon.
I'm Jazzed. Now all I need is some of BJ's
Hemp Twine, and maybe some BD13,
whenever it comes available.
Got 100' on the way now. It only took a
couple of days, where I thought I might
be waiting much longer.
My SS Mesh came in yesterday, so my
complete order will be here very soon.
I'm Jazzed. Now all I need is some of BJ's
Hemp Twine, and maybe some BD13,
whenever it comes available.
In regards to the SS wire rope wick, why not just make 3 or 4 mini wicks, twist them together and enclose them within a casing of mesh. Wouldn't this type of wick be the equiv. of using wire rope?
I haven't tried the wire rope so I can't compare but I did create a wick as described above and it works great ...
I haven't tried the wire rope so I can't compare but I did create a wick as described above and it works great ...
It's been 14 days since I placed my order directly with TEMCo for 30g Kanthal.My 30g Kanthal from TEMco shipped today.
Got 100' on the way now. It only took a
couple of days, where I thought I might
be waiting much longer.
My SS Mesh came in yesterday, so my
complete order will be here very soon.
I'm Jazzed. Now all I need is some of BJ's
Hemp Twine, and maybe some BD13,
whenever it comes available.
Congratulations VG, I might have 2-3 more weeks before I see mine. I have no ETA on my order.
I like the mesh more than the hemp wick, but that depends on which device it's in. The mesh and all SS wicks are a hassle to prep compared to hemp, cotton, and silica. Now that I have SS mesh doing a great job, I have no intention of trying SS "rope" if it's going to need the same prep to use. I would prefer to stop using wick material that is conductive. Having to oxidize or wrap a wick in another material seems like a waste of time when there are other options that work just as well or better.
I'm definitely looking forward to BD13 wicks in the future. It's a good thing I can wait a few months, when it becomes available the demand will probably be far greater than supply for quite a while.
Schnarph, my friend,
I think you should call TEMco at 800-967-7217. The eBay website says Monday-Friday, 6:00AM to 5:30PM PST. Of course, they may be closed tomorrow, Monday, for Memorial Day.
I wish you the best of Luck in getting your Order.
Edit to Add:
I don't really know what you mean by saying you Ordered Directly, but when I called, I was told that Orders were generally filled Faster when made from eBay, rather than over the Phone. I'm really sorry you've had this problem.
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I ordered directly from their company website. They sent me one email confirming my order. They put a hold on the payment for 3 days rather than processing it. At that point, I ordered 2 different gauges of wire from them via Ebay and received the wire in 5 days. They have finally officially charged my account for the first order, but have not sent me another email regarding the status of the order. The first email says "Built to order in 4 weeks". I could call them but I don't see the point since the disclaimer on processing time has been clearly stated. I was initially thrilled to have ordered 100ft of 30g A1 Kanthal for only $6.51 including shipping, but the wait time is ridiculous. I have brought this up in a few threads to persuade people to buy from TEMCo via Ebay and avoid their website if possible. My negative experience with them may be somewhat isolated, as all comments I post on this subject are ignored. You are the first person to address my comments regarding direct purchases from TEMCo. Right now, the price for what I ordered has gone up, but the shipping on it is now free, bringing the price below what I paid. I find the whole situation very confusing. My advice, buy from them via their Ebay store and avoid purchasing from their own website if possible unless you are willing to wait a long time.
I have bought 30 and 32g wire from them on ebay and got both within a few days, each order. I have no idea why they are screwing around with you. It would piss me off too.
Well, I've figured out some things.
1. SS Mesh is a Real PITA!!! I need some Hemp Twine and some of the BD13!!!
2. One of the two AGA-T2's I bought is Bad. I think it's the Silicone (+) Terminal Isolation Thingies, because the (+) Post kept sliding in the 510, and not making contact. One of them lets the post slip in the 510, and I smashed the other one by accident. I played with that dang AGA for hours, trying to get it to work. I finally gave up on SS Mesh, and put some Cotton Twine in it, and it works, but not on the VTube. So I opened the other box, built it with 30g and a 2Ω Coil, and it works like a Dream, even on the VTube... I just need something better than this Wal-Mart Peaches and Creme Cotton Twine for a Wick. I bought two AGA-T2's, and two Parts Packs, so I have some (+) Post Silicone Isolation Thingies to rebuild the other one with. I just need to do it quickly, so I can return it (exchange it) if necessary.
3. One of my two IMR Batteries is dying. This is why I couldn't get my VTube to work at over 4V (if I said that here). My Panasonic 2250 IMR works fine, but the Smok E Power 2200 is on the way out. This is why Panasonic is the Gold Standard. I'll never buy anything else.
Now that I have one of the AGA's working, maybe I can get SS Mesh to work. I'm just having a Hellubba Time getting it not to Short on the Kanthal (even fully oxidized at the Coil area). This Peaches and Creme has very limited Capillary Action. I have to do a Full Horizontal Tilt to wet the Wick while Vaping. But at least it's Working now. I really really want this #500 SS Mesh to work, until I can finally get some BD13, or at least some Hemp Twine.
So now I have a question . . .
How big should I drill out my Wick Hole, for anything really, but for #500 SS Mesh, and for Hemp Twine?
(or even this stupid Cotton Twine - maybe it's Choking in Wick Hole, or even my Coil)
Right now, the Hole is just a little larger than 3/32", because a Drill Bit has a little slop. I've seen where some people go as large as 1/8" (3.18mm). 3/32" is about 2.38mm, so it must be 2.5mm from the Factory.
Thanks in Advance.
1. SS Mesh is a Real PITA!!!
I need some Hemp Twine and some of the BD13!!!2. One of the two AGA-T2's I bought is Bad. I think it's the Silicone (+) Terminal Isolation Thingies, because the (+) Post kept sliding in the 510, and not making contact. One of them lets the post slip in the 510, and I smashed the other one by accident. I played with that dang AGA for hours, trying to get it to work. I finally gave up on SS Mesh, and put some Cotton Twine in it, and it works, but not on the VTube. So I opened the other box, built it with 30g and a 2Ω Coil, and it works like a Dream, even on the VTube... I just need something better than this Wal-Mart Peaches and Creme Cotton Twine for a Wick. I bought two AGA-T2's, and two Parts Packs, so I have some (+) Post Silicone Isolation Thingies to rebuild the other one with. I just need to do it quickly, so I can return it (exchange it) if necessary.
3. One of my two IMR Batteries is dying. This is why I couldn't get my VTube to work at over 4V (if I said that here). My Panasonic 2250 IMR works fine, but the Smok E Power 2200 is on the way out. This is why Panasonic is the Gold Standard. I'll never buy anything else.
Now that I have one of the AGA's working, maybe I can get SS Mesh to work. I'm just having a Hellubba Time getting it not to Short on the Kanthal (even fully oxidized at the Coil area). This Peaches and Creme has very limited Capillary Action. I have to do a Full Horizontal Tilt to wet the Wick while Vaping. But at least it's Working now. I really really want this #500 SS Mesh to work, until I can finally get some BD13, or at least some Hemp Twine.
So now I have a question . . .
How big should I drill out my Wick Hole, for anything really, but for #500 SS Mesh, and for Hemp Twine?
(or even this stupid Cotton Twine - maybe it's Choking in Wick Hole, or even my Coil)
Right now, the Hole is just a little larger than 3/32", because a Drill Bit has a little slop. I've seen where some people go as large as 1/8" (3.18mm). 3/32" is about 2.38mm, so it must be 2.5mm from the Factory.
Thanks in Advance.
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70mm tightly rolled 500 mesh 9/10 wrap 28g in the standard aga 2.5mm hole....
Over 20 seconds with no tilt.
Clic on pic for video..
Over 20 seconds with no tilt.
Clic on pic for video..
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Thanks for that, Beege.
I saved that quote from here a long time ago, and have been following it with mathematical calculations on it for different size holes. So you stayed with that and didn't drill it out. Humm. My (+) Center Post Threads are not as tall as yours. However, the 30g is higher ohms, and smaller diameter, so that will help me. An 8/9 wrap of my 30g is 3Ω. I made one for the Cotton Twine, and dragged it through with bent Kanthal, like you've said. I am using less wraps now. A 6/7 wrap came out to 2.6Ω, so I'll try 5/6 next (should be back at 2Ω). I love it that with a really wet wick, you can use higher Voltages.
Have you ever used Hemp Twine in your AGA? I think you have. Sorry for crossing your threads with this. I thought I might have to drill out the hole for that, as I didn't want to choke it. But it's good to know I don't need to make any modifications for SS Mesh.
I did get a 70mm wrap to fit, snugly, but I haven't gotten a coil to work around it yet, because it shorts to the hole. I really wish I had a Wick Insulator for the Hole. I think I'll use less than 70mm, so I have room to wrap an insulation of paper around it. I've been trying to do it Unoxidized, with no success. I did get one to work on the Mesh that came with the AGA-T2, but it was only a 44mm square, so I put a length of Cotton Twine in the middle, to fill the hole that would have had to be there otherwise. I'm getting No-Tilt Vaping with that, but I'm still getting some Spitting, even though I cut off the top with dykes. I think that was #400, so now I know that #500 will be great.
I could not get the Coil to stop Shorting on 70mm, so I oxidized the Coil Section, and down a little more where it hits the Base in the Hole, but it still Shorted Out. Maybe I wrapped it too tight.
I started using a Screw to wrap the Coil, to be able to Glow Burn it first. I finally got it to work on the 44mm wick with a P. Busardo Glow method around the wick. That just oxidizes the mess out of it too... but maybe only on the Outside. So I think I just need a larger Screw for a 70mm dense wick (62mm with paper insulation at the hole only), so I can slip it into the Oxidized Coil. I wrap the coil on a screw, then squish it down on a Drill Bit to shorten it, and Glow it a few times to oxidize it. I work it into a good coil, separating it with an X-acto blade once it's tempered, and Glow it again. I'm still playing with all of this, and trying to find the right procedure, following what Cyrus had said, keeping it wet with distilled water. I think I just need to keep it slightly damp now. It ain't as easy as they make it look in the Videos (or sound on ECF). But I'm no quitter. I'll get it right.
Oh where, oh where is that BD13. Oh where, oh where can it be?
The word is soon...
Gotta hit Like on that one.
I wish there was a Love It button!!!
I like your Avi, Stoneface. The picture looks kinda like the face from Ridley Scott's Prometheus.
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I heard the word "weeks" used, but do not hold me to it. Many things have a way of delaying the things I want or need, damned Murphy's Law.Gotta hit Like on that one.
I wish there was a Love It button!!!
I like your Avi, Stoneface. The picture looks kinda like the face from Ridley Scott's Prometheus.
Thanks...I should have thought of that when I was hunting for an image, but I will remember that now
BTW I am much much smaller than those guys in the movie
I heard the word "weeks" used, but do not hold me to it. Many things have a way of delaying the things I want or need, damned Murphy's Law.
Thanks...I should have thought of that when I was hunting for an image, but I will remember that now
BTW I am much much smaller than those guys in the movie
Well, I guess I'm just gonna have to wait how ever long it takes for that BD13. But I can tell you now, while I'm generally not a quitter, I'm totally fed up with SS Mesh. I've tried it without oxidizing the mesh, and while I can get a coil to glow around the unoxidized mesh, even wrapped somewhat snugly (touching), by the time it gets there, the mesh is so black, there's no more capillary action to it, and the damn coil has changed from what was supposed to be over 2Ω to 1.6Ω. One even went down to 1.4Ω. And I can't Vape at over 3.7V without it tasting burnt. I couldn't even get it to work with a fully oxidized wick (well that was the first try). But I'm about ready to say Screw This!!! and go back to a Carto Tank. I guess I'll give fully oxidized under the coil area, and where it touches the tank, one more try.
But I'll get some Hemp Twine for my 2 AGA-T2's, and anything else I rebuild, and when it's available, I'll try the BD13.
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Honestly, I got some mesh wicks to work pretty well but I did not like the vape and I did get frustrated with the constant fiddling. The ceramics are much easier and a nicer vape, IMO. Even the FC-2000 was a revelation for me. With that said, I still use carto-tanks, Evods, and Protanks for some juices...it's just easier and much more convenient. I don't see anything wrong with taking the easy way sometimes
If ceramics were not available, I'd still be using the mesh wicks un-oxidized. I rarely had a problem with them. I always used the PK method on the mesh wick lightly burned with a lighter where the coil sits.
Honestly, I got some mesh wicks to work pretty well but I did not like the vape and I did get frustrated with the constant fiddling. The ceramics are much easier and a nicer vape, IMO. Even the FC-2000 was a revelation for me. With that said, I still use carto-tanks, Evods, and Protanks for some juices...it's just easier and much more convenient. I don't see anything wrong with taking the easy way sometimes
Honestly, I got some mesh wicks to work pretty well but I did not like the vape and I did get frustrated with the constant fiddling. The ceramics are much easier and a nicer vape, IMO. Even the FC-2000 was a revelation for me. With that said, I still use carto-tanks, Evods, and Protanks for some juices...it's just easier and much more convenient. I don't see anything wrong with taking the easy way sometimes
I know you didn't mean "Easy" to sound insulting, so I do not take it that way, but it's not about Easy. I'd gladly spend the Time, and do what ever it takes, if it Worked. But like you said, you didn't like the Vape and Constant Fiddling. For something that doesn't work any better that this, it's not worth the Time and Trouble. Especially when there are things that work Better, like Hemp Twine, and soon, BD13.
But even the Carto Tank I have is sooooooooooooo much better (with all its hassles), there's just no comparison. I moved to Mesh because it's supposed to last longer, and you can clean it. These Cartos only last days. I'm certain I could get better Cartos that would last longer and work even better. The ones I have change ohms over time... the ohms go UP until they don't work on my VTube any more.
Sounds about right, and par for the course of my luck. But I couldn't even get full torched to work, so there's a technique that I haven't figured out yet.
Hey Anybody... is Annealed Kanthal the right thing? Mine says Kanthal A-1 Annealed Round Resistance Wire.
And I can say this, too... had I never been able to try the Carto Tank (which was given to me by a very dear friend), and I only had the Vivi Nova with the Stock 1.8Ω Heads to compare, I might be lovin' this mesh.
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