- Status
So I shot Chris and the meshcompany and email about getting an account set up for the ECF 5% discount on mesh. Never got a reply back. Anyone have any input on that?
I'm trying to order some 500!
I know I can just go ahead and order, but I do like to save money when I can.
I got my reply one day after sending. He probably got swamped as 'b' said.
On original mini DID, I was able to set 75mm (500 mesh), but there is a room for at least 10-15mm more. Just need a few more minutes of rolling and patience of course.
bj,
I know you touched on this before, but I will ask again.
I get a lot of "popping" inside the cap. It feels like someone is blowing puffs of air into my mouth. I have never experienced this with these devices before.
can you explain that?
I know you touched on this before, but I will ask again.
I get a lot of "popping" inside the cap. It feels like someone is blowing puffs of air into my mouth. I have never experienced this with these devices before.
can you explain that?
On original mini DID, I was able to set 75mm (500 mesh), but there is a room for at least 10-15mm more. Just need a few more minutes of rolling and patience of course.
I'm about to embark on my new fat wick. With this thicker version might it be an especially good idea to oxidize it before rolling it up since it'll be so dense when rolled?
Got my 28g A1 today and just put 10 wraps on a 70mm 500 on a DID clone. The ohms have settled in at 2. I like to be able to exhale twice after my draw, well I am exhaling three times to empty my lungs. Finally, wow....
Ob I have pops so intense it seriously jars my teeth, its a consequence of hardcore wicking of juice to a hella hot coil
I think we likely don't get this with a thin/loose wick because there is less pressure
Pega its killing so far I wish I had ten DUDS so I could run a better comparison. For now I have 500 in the ZAP and 270 in the DID.
I think we likely don't get this with a thin/loose wick because there is less pressure
Pega its killing so far
I wish I had ten DUDS so I could run a better comparison. For now I have 500 in the ZAP and 270 in the DID.No need to oxidize before rolling, it just makes it harder to roll and the only oxidation that actually isolates is on the surface.
Ok, thanks. That makes sense. I guess I'm not yet accustomed to straightforward, rational steps when working with these things; still used to the genesis voodoo people typically preach and follow
The DUD has a lot vertical space but 10 is about my limit. Don't think I will be able to get to 2.4 ohms with 28 unless I drill it out and go to a thicker 100mm wick.
just my 2c:
I find I can roll an oxidized wick tighter than I can roll a non-oxidized one. Usually I start unoxidized and do another round of rolling after oxidization and then finish it off with a final round of torching. I have a 9cm 500 mesh in my NGP right now and I could fit a LOT more....
I find I can roll an oxidized wick tighter than I can roll a non-oxidized one. Usually I start unoxidized and do another round of rolling after oxidization and then finish it off with a final round of torching. I have a 9cm 500 mesh in my NGP right now and I could fit a LOT more....
Last edited:
I only did one that way after emonty said he did and I found it got very slippery and harder for me to roll. Since the lab tests didn't show any advantage in wicking or isolation I haven't done anymore but if it works for you, great.
No scientific proof, actually you are adding minerals and a third component that could separate the layers from each other. So for you it may seem tighter and it may not be better for wicking. Just got a few more sheets of 500 and am going to do a few more kerosine lamp test with preoxidation and not oxidized. Also want to compare rolling 500 on the bias instead of on the square.
The main reason I do it is that I can't get the mesh to stay rolled tight without oxidizing. It wants to loosen up when in oxidized.
Got my fat(er) wick all made up but no official feedback on performance as yet since I'm encountering some shorts etc. I keep trying to use the 34awg kanthal to get my desired resistance on this relatively short wick but keep popping coils; often the top coil.
I used 50mm in the Griffin/"DuD" (or ChiD as some are now calling it), and I definitely could've gotten more, but that'll be for next time.
I used 50mm in the Griffin/"DuD" (or ChiD as some are now calling it), and I definitely could've gotten more, but that'll be for next time.
well I am exhaling three times to empty my lungs. Finally, wow....
BJ don't forget to take some fresh air from time to time!!!
- Status
Similar threads
