I personally think it would be hard to start wrapping the coil from the top because each consecutive wrap would have to go under that top wrap. Try wrapping the top wire around the post 2 times and in the oppisite direction that you wound the coils around the wick. This will help to keep the top wire from slipping on the post when you tighten the nut.
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I personally think it would be hard to start wrapping the coil from the top because each consecutive wrap would have to go under that top wrap. Try wrapping the top wire around the post 2 times and in the oppisite direction that you wound the coils around the wick. This will help to keep the top wire from slipping on the post when you tighten the nut.
Oh thank you Quigs. I was starting to think it was to roll a tiny tube from a can and stick it in the hole like the length of needle.
Sounds kinda funky, and seems like it messes with the direction of the airflow (not directly at the coil).
Sounds kinda funky, and seems like it messes with the direction of the airflow (not directly at the coil).
Good point on the air flow "turbulence", thought the same thing...like I said, it works "pretty good", but it's definitely not a perfect solution...I just did it before I did the JB Weld/re-drill...I'm glad I did, like I said, I've grown to like the stock airy draw...everything else now seems so restricted, what a difference a day (or 5) makes 
Hey, it doesn't have to be a bad thing, just needs some thought to control. Not for that device, but I've been toying with the idea of cutting a thin slit instead of a drilling a round hole, something like the carto slitting for tanks. The trouble would be free-handing it and getting it somewhere in the same volume of my standard-no-need-to-think-about-it-just-drill-it 1.5mm hole. Done right one could have a flat stream of air hitting the wick perpendicularly. And it would look cool.
Or run your air "slit" vertical, parallel with the wick (if it's a vert wick device)...talk about max air!...then do the beer can piece but cut the leading edge on a taper so that when you rotated it over your air slit you would incrementally close it off with less disturbance/turbulence...or even better make your beer can piece look like a rhombus, so depending on which way you approached your slit you could close it off from the top down or the bottom up...man, mad props to L7D4N for sending me a couple DUD's...play time!
Edit, just checked my Dremel diamond wheel, it's .55mm thick...this may be actually possible!
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Good point on the air flow "turbulence", thought the same thing...like I said, it works "pretty good", but it's definitely not a perfect solution...I just did it before I did the JB Weld/re-drill...I'm glad I did, like I said, I've grown to like the stock airy draw...everything else now seems so restricted, what a difference a day (or 5) makes
hmmm! I was thinking along the lines that the beer can mod was the 'inner sleeve' like you described. But having it cover the entire hole, then punch of drill a smaller hole in the sleeve. Wonder if this would cause less turbulence.
(me too Quigs - been vapin' on my new ZAP since last Wednesday and it's getting nicer each day w/ its airy draw)
Ya, that would work too...there is yet another way, grab a piece of mesh to small for anything else, and roll a baby wick and slide it into your DT hole (adjust to your liking)...you're looking for draw restriction, does it really matter which end you restrict?
But ya, it's just a matter of getting used to it...I think it's psychological...unless you're really hauling on it you don't think you're getting anything, but as you're coughing up a lung full of vape...oh ya, <<cough, cough>> it's working just fine...
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Just got my 500 mesh in today (a whole week later than a friend who ordered it a day later than me and had it shipped to Hungary as well 
). got about 7cm rolled tight in my new NGP and Wow.
Just wow...
edit: just wanted to add that that was in no way the vendor's fault, they shipped mine the morning that I ordered. luck of the draw I guess
). got about 7cm rolled tight in my new NGP and Wow. Just wow...
edit: just wanted to add that that was in no way the vendor's fault, they shipped mine the morning that I ordered. luck of the draw I guess
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Yeah, well my 
I am selling my Zen Mini. I purchased a stiff draw cap for it. It's not good enough. The vapor (Boba's, my only vape) is too dry. Smaller diameter air hole won't solve that for me without compromising vapor production to an unacceptable degree. The issue for me with the Zen is the cap size (too small).
I am selling my Zen Mini. I purchased a stiff draw cap for it. It's not good enough. The vapor (Boba's, my only vape) is too dry. Smaller diameter air hole won't solve that for me without compromising vapor production to an unacceptable degree. The issue for me with the Zen is the cap size (too small).
Sorry guys---i forgot to mention the numbers on this mesh---the open area is 27% which is-pretty close to the 500 mesh..
That was the mesh I cut my teeth on, still have a little snippet of it left, it has sentimental value, and its served me well!
Got this today to run three DID clones at the same time with different g wire on 500 mesh.
Got this today to run three DID clones at the same time with different g wire on 500 mesh.
Oh no, BJ is going nuclear...gonna duct tape them together and make a 3 into 1 DT manifold?...because that would be cool
So I just finished reading through all the posts in this thread; great stuff. This has been the most illuminating thread on the principles of genesis atomizers I've read. Thanks to BJ43 for kicking this off and to all the people who have contributed and grown it to what it is.
Does anybody happen to know how wide a wick the Griffin/"DuD" can hold? I unfortunately don't have anything on hand to measure the diameter of the wick hole but am eager to try out a fat wick to see if it'll keep up with my back-to-back 5 second pulls.
Does anybody happen to know how wide a wick the Griffin/"DuD" can hold? I unfortunately don't have anything on hand to measure the diameter of the wick hole but am eager to try out a fat wick to see if it'll keep up with my back-to-back 5 second pulls.
well if you have a pin or a small screw it will tell you about how wide it will be. Let's say it is 2 mm: you can fit a 60 mm wick in there. 2.5 mm will fit a 70 or a bit bigger. Give it a go and if you roll one too big, cut a piece off
Thanks emonty. I'm gonna give that a shot as soon as this tank is empty. I haven't gotten my hands on the 500 mesh yet, but I did just get some of the 400 woven mesh from maryhoffer on ebay, and discovered that the mesh that came with this kit (type and grade was unspecified) from Mountain Oak Vapor is certainly not nearly as good as that 400; the 400 is much smoother, softer, and lets much less light through so I'm looking forward to the results.
All I can say is wow. The 500 mesh is amazing on my mini did. I had been using 400, solid rolled wick and it was pretty good, except for the occasional dry hit, but chalked that up to the required thin wick. Finally, needing a coil change, I moved to the same size thin solid wick in 500, but the difference is amazing. I can't force a dry hit. I think I would overdose on nicotine before I could dry hit. Great thread, great help thanks all.
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
So I shot Chris and the meshcompany and email about getting an account set up for the ECF 5% discount on mesh. Never got a reply back. Anyone have any input on that?
I'm trying to order some 500!
I know I can just go ahead and order, but I do like to save money when I can.
I'm trying to order some 500!
I know I can just go ahead and order, but I do like to save money when I can.
So I shot Chris and the meshcompany and email about getting an account set up for the ECF 5% discount on mesh. Never got a reply back. Anyone have any input on that?
I'm trying to order some 500!
I know I can just go ahead and order, but I do like to save money when I can.
He probably didn't expect a 1000 emails
We can't afford to give too much discount away on these sheets. The #500 mesh is especially costly to produce.
However I am happy to offer a lifetime 5% discount to all members of your forum.
All they have to do is email me with the following information:
· Name and delivery address
· Telephone Number - We wont call, but we have to input one into the system
· Email address
I will then set them up with a login account for our website. They'll then be able to login and receive the 5% discount anytime they want.
Kind Regards
Chris Platt
General Manager
The Mesh Company Ltd
mailto:chris.platt@themeshcompany.com
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