Haaa yea mate having a lot of fun. It's been great catching up with my old friends.Enjoying your vacation? Don't be doing anything I wouldn't do in Thailand,
Don't have enough money to get up to trouble too so it's all good
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Don't have enough money to get up to trouble too so it's all good
anyone have problems with 500 mesh not holding up? i keep getting tears near my top coil, im probably dryburning too long or have a hot spot. maybe 500 is just less durable than 400 or 325? thanks
No
Your hand will be at ground potential
But there will be no current flow because there is no path to positive potential
That makes sense.
I'm a curious guy, so I have a follow-up question or two, sorry
So, why is BJ conceding that there would be some (inconsequential) amount of current lost through the wick when an insulator is not used when what you're saying about the hands seems similar to his earlier point about not needing a wick-hole insulator as long as the positive is isolated from the wick?
With a SS wick there is a possible electrical path from positive to negative
The most probable path is where the wick is in contact with the wick hole
Especially when the wick is wet, it is more likely to allow current to flow from wick to metal hole
Even if the wick is well oxidized
The most probable path is where the wick is in contact with the wick hole
Especially when the wick is wet, it is more likely to allow current to flow from wick to metal hole
Even if the wick is well oxidized
OK; the possible path from positive to negative makes sense, and I can see how that's different. So, even though the coil is the path of least resistance for the electricity there will occasionally be some current that slips into the wick. Is there some sort of "current traffic jam" so some of the current gets shunted off into next easiest path?
Luckily eliquid isn't conductive, or we wouldn't be vaping at all.
Also, if the current isn't getting into the wick, it isn't going to ground either, which is why we oxidize these hummers. The path of least resistance trumps everything.
Also, if the current isn't getting into the wick, it isn't going to ground either, which is why we oxidize these hummers. The path of least resistance trumps everything.
There should always be much more current flowing through the coil than through an oxidized wick to ground
There is a high resistance thin layer of oxidation between coil/wick and wick/ground
As long as this leakage current is very small compared to the coil current it can pretty much be considered insignificant. Although it will adversly affect battery life slightly
There is a high resistance thin layer of oxidation between coil/wick and wick/ground
As long as this leakage current is very small compared to the coil current it can pretty much be considered insignificant. Although it will adversly affect battery life slightly
Gotta ask... has anyone tried thin wall heat shrink tubiing at the wick port?
URL worked for me.
I just did a 60mm wick of #500 in the Cobra. It is wicking like a champ!
When I first tried it, I could barely get 45mm to fit. Now that I have the method down I think I might be able get a 70-75mm wick in there.
I found pre-oxidizing without the water treatment made it a lot easier to get a tight roll. After I had it rolled I oxidized again with the water treatment.
Thanx BJ!
what size Cobra do you have?
Well it [500#] is pretty thin, but only time I got those 'tears' was from localised shorts from coil to the wick - the current flow tends to burn through the mesh quite easily. Since I stopped getting top coil shorts though it stopped happening, even on 5V dry burns with sub 1.8 Ohm coils until the entire top section of wick glowed orange - wick still fine.
DV
Yep, it shrinks, melts, and burns real good, yuck!!!, I have used ptfe tubing and it works pretty good.
ob, I've got 70mm in my 5ml Cobra. Just now learning how to set it up. Plenty of vapor
Has anyone figured out the perfect mm width for the cobra?
I know Emory said 60 mm before but I feel like it could handle more
Chuck,
Not sure if this will help or not, but here is a picture of what is working for me.
I'm slowly making progress, thanks to you and other posts of this forum. What guage wire are you using from the image?
Made a discovery this past week.
So, I have been using a drill bit to make my coils the peter k way. My drill bit that I have been using is about a mm smaller in diameter than the wick hole for the Orion. So, when I have been rolling up #500 mesh wicks, 60mm in length or larger, I have to roll them so tight they don't work very well, which is why I have been using 45mm or smaller wicks.
I found a drill bit this weekend that is a perfect fit for the wick hole on the Orion. I made a new coil and rolled up a #500 mesh wick, 60mm in length for both the Orion and the ihybrid. I CAN NOT GET A DRY HIT TO SAVE MY LIFE. The wick is rolled tight, but just tight enough to slip in the wick, not hard like a nail. I think I can safely say, I've perfected the set up for the ihy and Orion. Not without the help of all of you of course, but now that I'm using the bigger ID tool for the coil, these hybrids are not hybrids anymore, they are freight trains.
So, I have been using a drill bit to make my coils the peter k way. My drill bit that I have been using is about a mm smaller in diameter than the wick hole for the Orion. So, when I have been rolling up #500 mesh wicks, 60mm in length or larger, I have to roll them so tight they don't work very well, which is why I have been using 45mm or smaller wicks.
I found a drill bit this weekend that is a perfect fit for the wick hole on the Orion. I made a new coil and rolled up a #500 mesh wick, 60mm in length for both the Orion and the ihybrid. I CAN NOT GET A DRY HIT TO SAVE MY LIFE. The wick is rolled tight, but just tight enough to slip in the wick, not hard like a nail. I think I can safely say, I've perfected the set up for the ihy and Orion. Not without the help of all of you of course, but now that I'm using the bigger ID tool for the coil, these hybrids are not hybrids anymore, they are freight trains.
Crack3dOne
Can you clarify, "The wick is rolled tight, but just tight enough to slip in the wick, not hard like a nail."
I think I understand what you are saying but just want to make sure.
Pin hole in the center, rolled tight. Not to the point where I've made the wick feel like a solid piece of metal cause is so tight.
So, using Tomcatt's calc at PV Web Apps 60mm of mesh gets a ~2mm wick rolled tight.
What size drill bit are you using that matches your wick hole?
I'm just asking to understand the ratio of perfectly rolled tight mesh to wick hole diameter, so I can see if I can replicate for wicks in other types of attys with different size wick holes.
What size drill bit are you using that matches your wick hole?
I'm just asking to understand the ratio of perfectly rolled tight mesh to wick hole diameter, so I can see if I can replicate for wicks in other types of attys with different size wick holes.
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